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nramsey
01-13-2005, 09:22 PM
I'm going to be installing a mono sub amp on my 2001 w/ stock Symphony (non-Bose) head unit using line level inputs from the rear speakers this weekend.

I'm looking for advise on where best to connect the turn on lead (on with ignition key). Is there a convenient place in the fusebox to get this turn on signal?

Anyone have any advice for tapping into the rear speaker wires to connect the line level inputs? Any easy ways to tell which is + and - ?

My friend has a Bently repair CD but don't know if the wiring diagrams will be correct for my 2001.

Thanks all.

SeanF
01-13-2005, 09:24 PM
best place for the remote would be the 75X post behind the knee bolster under the steering wheel....

get the knee bolster out, and you will have no trouble seeing the post im talking about...

VRsic
01-13-2005, 09:38 PM
Are you going to be using a line level adapter?

nramsey
01-13-2005, 10:01 PM
Originally posted by VRsic
Are you going to be using a line level adapter?

No...do I need one? The amp has line level inputs (in addition to the RCAs) that I thought would work fine.

greengravy
01-13-2005, 11:08 PM
search..... anywyas... the line level the amp has should be sufficient to get the job done

4ingDrive
01-14-2005, 05:52 AM
You need an adaptor to get the line level outputs from the deck. Otherwise you'd be hooking up the high level inputs. Sound quality from the line outs is much better than the amplified output.

ColumbiaDeath
01-14-2005, 06:58 AM
I just recently wired an amp/sub combo with my stock Concert HU.
There were already wire taps in there from the previous owner taking it to a shop...but there are some DIY's on it. I used an old set of RCA cables, cut the end off- and stripped the end. Plugged the RCA cables in the amp, and attached the other end to the L and R line level outputs, and twisted the two RCA grounds togather and spliced them to the common ground in the stock Audi amp.

infinity20k
01-14-2005, 04:36 PM
Easy way to tell whats + - is the postive is usally a soild color and the negative is a soild color with a strip on it

aks986
01-14-2005, 05:10 PM
If your worried about that, i would be alot more worried about running your power cables. Its not an easy task.

Shea

nramsey
01-14-2005, 05:44 PM
Originally posted by aks986
If your worried about that, i would be alot more worried about running your power cables. Its not an easy task.

Shea

I've wired amps etc in at least 4 previous cars. Any specific difficulties on the A4? I'm not worried about any aspect of the install...just wondering if anyone has any A4 specific hints.

Thanks all!

Zodiak
01-14-2005, 06:30 PM
Originally posted by nramsey
I've wired amps etc in at least 4 previous cars. Any specific difficulties on the A4? I'm not worried about any aspect of the install...just wondering if anyone has any A4 specific hints.

Thanks all!

running wires on the A4 is actually very easy: from the battery, run wire behind the firewall through the ECU box, down behind the knee bolster, behind the kick panels, along the side trim next to the drivers seat all the way back and under the rear seats to the trunk.

to remove knee bolster: 4 8mm screws 1 below the fusebox (remove fuse box cover)
1 behind the plastic cover near where you left knee would be if you were driving
1 behind the plastic cover near where your right knee would be if you were driving
1 above the gas pedal
- disconnect OBD II port and footwell light harness

To remove kickpanel: 2 philips screws
1 at the top of the kick panel
1 behind the plastic cover
- once screws are out, slide the whole piece forward and lift up

To remove side trim: 1 philips screw
-remove rear bench seats (just lift up on the front of them)
- Screw for the trim is located right below the bottom of the driver's side rear seatbelt harness
- side trim is held in by metal clips, just lift straight up.
-there is a plastic clip at the base of the B-pillar

simply reverse these steps to reassemble.

I've done this atleast 12 times on the A4 and so far this is the easiet and cleanest method i've come across


search terms: running wires audio amp install speakers power write-up

nramsey
01-14-2005, 06:34 PM
Awesome, thanks for the tips Zodiak!

4ingDrive
01-14-2005, 07:13 PM
Originally posted by infinity20k
Easy way to tell whats + - is the postive is usally a soild color and the negative is a soild color with a strip on it

Uh...no their not.

ColumbiaDeath
01-14-2005, 07:17 PM
Originally posted by 4ingDrive
Uh...no their not.

I agree....read the DIY on AudiWorld
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec29.shtml
that should tell you what wire is what

Audi99
11-26-2005, 06:37 PM
ColumbiaDeath
or
nramsey
"I used an old set of RCA cables, cut the end off- and stripped the end."

My car 99.5 2.8q and it has Concert stereo(NON BOSE) -From what I underestand I can also connect RCA right to the wires in my trunk ???
without line level outputs from the deck?

can someone send me pic of this set up please(taking in the trunk because I litle confused how to connect RCA to the rear driver side speaker) ?
Thanks!

nramsey
11-26-2005, 10:08 PM
Don't have pics now, may try to get some tomorrow if you really want. I followed the directions ColumbiaDeath posted above and they worked perfectly for me.

Audi99
11-27-2005, 04:51 AM
Thanks nramsey!
and I really want the pic -it will be very helpfull for me when I will be conecting the wires.

I have some questions
1)Do I have to connect it before small AMP in the trunk?
2)Is the sound quality will be the same if I connected wires by the "rear driver side"speaker I mean without Blaupunkt adapter at the deck?
3)how many foot of power cable do I need to run from battery to the trunk?
4)RCA cable-can I buy cheap cables as long as I run it from the "rear driver side"speaker or I will get poor SQ?

5)My AMP has
High Level Input
and
Low Level Input(RCA)(my manual says preferred for Best performance)


so.. which Input I should use?

Thanks!

MEDEL51480
01-14-2007, 11:25 AM
best place for the remote would be the 75X post behind the knee bolster under the steering wheel....

get the knee bolster out, and you will have no trouble seeing the post im talking about...
Where the f*ck is this 75X Post to run the remote wire off of??? WHats it look like?

I'm under the knee bolster right now, but I don't see anything that says 75X....

zrowcool
01-14-2007, 11:33 AM
there are 4 bolts with wires atached to them. they usually have a number on them. 75x is on the left i think. not 100% since im going by memory but i remember getting to mine and they didnt have any stickers.

Beemer832
01-14-2007, 11:48 AM
I have installed amps and sub on 3 different year B5 a4's, along with plenty of other model cars. The easiest way to do this is this:
Power wire from battery- run on passenger side of car through the firewall where the AC condensor lines run into the cabin. Just stick it through the bottom of the gromit and it will come out where the passengers feet are. This takes a little manipulation. Than just run it to the trunk and tuck it up and under the molding on your way back.
Remote turn on wire- Open your fuse box and use a volitmeter to figure out which open fuse space is turned on when the ignition is switched. There is usually just ONE space that has this capabilities. If I remember correctly, this was different on each year A4 but I could be wrong. Just set a voltimeter for 12v and stick the positive probe in the fuse socket, and ground the black probe. Flip the ignition on and off and see if it comes when it is ON and off when it is OFF. Again run this wire along the trim. I never had to unscrew or remove any panels when doing this, except the fuse box cover.
Ground Wire- Just screw a less than 12in ground wire somewhere to the cars metal structure int he trunk. MAKE SURE YOU DONT SCREW INTO THE GAS TANK or any other USEFUL or ELECTRICAL part of the car. Check and double check because this would be BAD!!! (not saying you or anyone is dumb, but I feel better if I note that).
Speaker lever inputs- I know on the 3 audis that I did, the rear deck speakers are actually subwoofers, so guess what, they already have low frequency signals going to them from the HU. So just splice the + and - wires coming from these speakers and there you go, you have speaker level inputs. If you don't know which one is positive and negative, the easiest way to do this, but you need to be careful of course. Is use your 12+ positive lead, and your ground wire. After the speakers are disconnected from the rest of the cars wiring harness, touch the negative and positive contacts of the speaker with the HOT wires. When the diaphragm of the speaker flexes OUT or away from the magnet, that is the correct polarity. When it sucks in towards the magnet, that is backwards. This will not damage the speakers. This was instructed to me by a professional audio installer. I DO NOT Recommend leaving the power to these speakers like this for extended periods of time, but just to flex the diaphragm is ok.

Just like everything I write or DIYer, everything you do is at your own risk, I do not guarantee any of this, because I am not liable..... good luck..
josh

MEDEL51480
01-14-2007, 11:55 AM
So splice into the rear deck speakers and run it directly to the amp input? I read in a lot of other posts that said I'd need a line level converter.

Beemer832
01-14-2007, 12:04 PM
Thats waht I did and it works fine. If these were normal two way speakers, and not mini subs, than yes you would need a line leve converter. But these are already subwoofers, and the HU already has a built in crossover and sends all the low frequency signals to these subwoofers.... but regardless of what I or anyone else tells you, you are still going to do waht you want. I am just making a suggesting. Those line level converters can be pricey also...
just my $.02

josh

MEDEL51480
01-14-2007, 01:47 PM
OK well that raises another question. if the rear deck speakers are already low amplified, then I wouldn't be able to swap them out with some component 6.5"s? Would I have to get 6.5" subs? What do people swap into the rear deck?

Beemer832
01-14-2007, 03:02 PM
good question... i never swapped out the speakers so i dont honestly know. finding those small subs are going to be hard. if you are keeping the stock HU, i would either keep them installed the way the are, it will allow for some higher bass frequencies, or if you are changing the HU and adding external amplifiers,put anything you want there.... this one dude told me once, which made perfect sense... when you go to a concert, all the speakers are in the front, so why would you want speakers throwing sound at you from behind? I would concentrate on getting some good component speakers for up front, and not worry so much about the rear, especially the rear deck... but again just my $.02

josh

MEDEL51480
01-14-2007, 04:23 PM
Here is a pic of the relay terminal under the kick panel. I didn't run the amp power wire throught the fire wall. Instead, I connected it to the 2nd terminal which already had a 6 gauge wire that ran right from the battery. Saved me alot of time and headache. A quick volt test confirmed the terminal on the far left was the so called 75X. I hooked the blue remote wire to it.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/MEDEL514/Vehicles/DSCN1426.jpg

I tried to run the amp input wires right off the rear deck speakers like Beemer832 said to, but the sound quality just wasn't right. You could tell that the subs were being fed the low and high frequencies. I don't know how it worked for him, but I'm gonna get a line level converter and hope it helps.

Beemer832
01-14-2007, 04:43 PM
do you have the bose system or just the regular stock system? now that I think about it, i believe all the audis i did had the amp in the back which im pretty sure means it was BOSE.... i apologize for the misunderstanding.....

josh

MEDEL51480
01-14-2007, 05:20 PM
I have Bose, and I'm using a simple 2-channel amp. I don't know, I'll see what happens with the LLC

BranCKY3
01-14-2007, 09:03 PM
On the LLC, there are 2 sets of wires, for left and right channel + and -. What I did on mine was connect each + and - to each other before I put it on the car, then just used a quick wire connector thing and connected then to the speaker wires underneath the amp on the rear left speaker.

Beemer832
01-14-2007, 11:18 PM
MEDEL, arent you installing a mono block sub amp? I am confused why you are calling it a 2-channel amp. If it is a true mono block sub amp, than it should only have 1 channel, which is why it is called MONO. This could be a reason why tapping into the rear deck speaker wires doesn't sound "good".. does the amplifier also have a built in crossover? And if so did you change any of the frequency or settings?.....

josh

smoothie
01-15-2007, 02:32 PM
ya set it on low pass other wise it will play either all of the frequncies(full pass) or just the highs(high pass)

so just to clearify this for me. you run the rca's to the amp input through a set of line level converters. what are they and where can you get them? never heard of it. and then you hook those up to what? considering i have a bose system...

i see people saying that you can just use the rear subs in the deck for an amp input since they are subs. will this work with the bose? also wouldn't this take away power from those factory subs in the rear deck, or any others for that matter?

all that i have read on this thread is non-bose same with the audiworld link...

sorry if i missed it...

bass_lover1
01-15-2007, 03:04 PM
If you're using the stock HU to wire up an amp, you have a few options.

1) If your amp has high level inputs, you can tap into the rear speaker wires and go that route (find wiring diagrams to see which colors are which, you dont want to mess that up).
2) Use a line level converter to take your existing speaker wires, and the converter will basically turn them into fully functional RCAs.

Do not, I repeat DO NOT splice RCAs directly to your speaker wires and plug them into your amp...it's ghetto as hell and you will drastically decrease the sound quality in your stereo. There's a reason someone developed the LLC.

Or you could go aftermarket w/ the HU and just go that route...which IMO is the best option if you want to achieve high levels of sound quality, but aren't too worried about retaining the factory look.

b00st
01-15-2007, 03:22 PM
as anyone knows....sound quality starts at the source aka the HU and it goes downhill from there.

bass_lover1
01-15-2007, 08:11 PM
as anyone knows....sound quality starts at the source aka the HU and it goes downhill from there.



Actually, if you really want to be technical, quality is really going to start at the recording you are listening to.

Now mater how much time, money and effort you have into a stereo, nothing is going to make a shitty recording sound good.

But yea other than that, you are on the right track.

MEDEL51480
01-16-2007, 12:21 PM
Do not, I repeat DO NOT splice RCAs directly to your speaker wires and plug them into your amp...it's ghetto as hell and you will drastically decrease the sound quality in your stereo. There's a reason someone developed the LLC.

Yeah, that's what I tried and it sounded garbage. I'll wait for my LLC to come in.

BTW, what speakers should I replace my Bose stock rear ones with? I was talking to a guy at an audio store and he said if I replaced them that I wouldn't be able to use stock wiring, I'd have to wire them directly to the deck and bypass the Bose Amp otherwise they would blow. Sound right to anyone? What have you guys used???

4ingDrive
01-16-2007, 12:45 PM
You guys really need to learn to read. The signal feeding you stock amp is a line level signal. Adding an llc will only degrade your signal level and sound quality. If you tried to tap into your existing wiring and it sounded bad you did it wrong. I've hooked up dozens of stereos in Audi's with no problem.

smoothie
01-16-2007, 01:01 PM
i know that if you want to run different speakers or a different deck it all has to be done at once. new deck speakers wiring amp sub and cd changer if you wish to use one, which i do.

now to what 4ingdriver said^^^ you can tap into your existing bose amp which gets a line level signal already. that signal it gets, is it run through rca's? or are you going to have to rig a set of rca's?

i would really like to keep my factory system just add an amp and sub. i just don't feel like spending too much money on my car on the system as it's just a DD and will be going out the door in about 2 years.

4ingDrive
01-16-2007, 05:06 PM
It's line level but you will have to add your own rca's.

bass_lover1
01-16-2007, 05:32 PM
I'm thinkin since the OP is non-bose...which would mean no amp...soooo

the LLC would be necessary then.

Beemer832
01-16-2007, 06:03 PM
The line level input on amplifiers are made to take a signal from an amplified source (HU, amplifier, etc) going to a speaker, and use that signal to create sound. Mono block amplifiers should have a built in crossover inline with this line level inputs to sort out the high frequencies, and only pass on the low frequencies.

BranCKY3
01-16-2007, 08:57 PM
Speaking of stereo systems... after having mine in for a few weeks I find the interior to rattle quite a bit. Namely something on the rear deck and the headliner around where the sunroof controls are. Have any of you experienced these / fixed them? If so, how? I'm not planning on using any dynamat.

MEDEL51480
01-16-2007, 09:48 PM
You guys really need to learn to read. The signal feeding you stock amp is a line level signal. Adding an llc will only degrade your signal level and sound quality. If you tried to tap into your existing wiring and it sounded bad you did it wrong. I've hooked up dozens of stereos in Audi's with no problem.
So are you talking about taping into the rear output from the deck to the rear amp and not between the rear amp and rear deck speakers. Maybe thats what I did wrong.... I'll have to try to splice the RCA's into the lines feeding the rear amp from the deck.

Yeah Audi and Bose for making this interesting![=(]

b00st
01-17-2007, 09:58 AM
Actually, if you really want to be technical, quality is really going to start at the recording you are listening to.


that parts a given. and since we are talking about the install of components...then the source would be the HU and not the actual thing we are listening too...but yes....anything is only gone sound as good as the recording and its all downhill from that.

b00st
01-17-2007, 10:02 AM
Speaking of stereo systems... after having mine in for a few weeks I find the interior to rattle quite a bit. Namely something on the rear deck and the headliner around where the sunroof controls are. Have any of you experienced these / fixed them? If so, how? I'm not planning on using any dynamat.

i know you weren't planning on using it but...you might need to.

both common problems and not just in audis. i had both in my monte carlo. part of it was that 3rd brake light in the back...that always tends to rattle so trying to make it snug is a start. dynamat is really the only other option.

i forgot what happened but something in the assembly of the sunroof rattled. harder one to fix...need to take off the headliner and prolly dynamat it around that. some songs i could get enough pressure to make the glass rattle. like bass cds to test tracks.

4ingDrive
01-17-2007, 10:07 AM
So are you talking about taping into the rear output from the deck to the rear amp and not between the rear amp and rear deck speakers. Maybe thats what I did wrong.... I'll have to try to splice the RCA's into the lines feeding the rear amp from the deck.

Yeah Audi and Bose for making this interesting![=(]

That is correct.

MEDEL51480
01-17-2007, 11:21 AM
BTW, what speakers should I replace my Bose stock rear ones with? I was talking to a guy at an audio store and he said if I replaced them that I wouldn't be able to use stock wiring, I'd have to wire them directly to the deck and bypass the Bose Amp otherwise they would blow. Sound right to anyone? What have you guys used???
...

bass_lover1
01-17-2007, 08:09 PM
i know you weren't planning on using it but...you might need to.

both common problems and not just in audis. i had both in my monte carlo. part of it was that 3rd brake light in the back...that always tends to rattle so trying to make it snug is a start. dynamat is really the only other option.

i forgot what happened but something in the assembly of the sunroof rattled. harder one to fix...need to take off the headliner and prolly dynamat it around that. some songs i could get enough pressure to make the glass rattle. like bass cds to test tracks.


I'll give a big [down] to dynomat. Please don't use it, there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO many more options out there for sound deadening, most of which are cheaper and better.

I will HIGHLY recommend that you buy RAAMMat's BXT, it's FAR cheaper than basically everything Dynamat sells, and works just as well, if not better IMO.

You don't have to listen to me, but if anything atleast read this: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and then make an informed decision.

BranCKY3
01-17-2007, 08:44 PM
I'll give a big [down] to dynomat. Please don't use it, there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO many more options out there for sound deadening, most of which are cheaper and better.

Oh believe me, there's NO way in hell I'd ever buy dynamat. I just used the name to get the point across that I don't want to stick any sound deadening on my car. In my last car, which hit 145.x db with a single 15" sub, I used this stuff called 'Peel N Seal' from Lowe's in the roofing department. Exact same stuff as dynamat, but $1/sqft compared to Dynamat's $2.50/sqft or something. It did a pretty good job for keeping the rattles outta the interior, but outside it looked like my trunk was about to explode. I just want my bass to sound clean and free from rattles. I'm thinking some foam stuck under the rear deck will stop the rattle there, but I don't know what's rattling with the sunroof controls.

bass_lover1
01-17-2007, 08:52 PM
Heh, peal and seal...lawl

old t-shirts work well too instead of foam.

Audi99
05-13-2010, 05:21 PM
Hi, I know its old post but anyway. Do you have any pictures of splicing wires for amp? please
Thank you

Cybersombosis
05-13-2010, 06:55 PM
After much research and looking through the tech article found here http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html, there is an easy way to get line-out to your sub amp and it's right at the driver's side rear speaker. This is taken from the tech article which I have added and taken out less important info.

First things first. This worked for me but do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you screw something up. If you don't understand something, then ask before you start snipping wires. This installation does not require you to cut any of your car's wiring so please don't. Tapping means stripping a section of insulation off of the wiring leaving the bare copper wire showing at which point you can solder another wire to it and wrap your work with electrician's tape.

These wire colors worked for me but you may want to verify that they are the same before starting by looking at the back of your wiring harness off the stereo. My OEM stereo had a diagram stuck to it with the wiring diagram.

The rear amp is a smallish thing, normally attached to the rear left speaker in the rear deck plate. There is a connector plugged into the side of the speaker when you drop your drivers side rear seat down.

The brackets represent the slots that slid into the male harness end. The side with the outward piece is the piece I chose as the "top".

________[ ]________
(1) (2)
(3)
(4) (5)
(6)
(7) (8)
________[ ]________

1: White- Switch
2: Red-Blue lead to Right speaker
3: Brown-Red lead Right speaker
4: Red-Blue (thicker): 12v
5: Blue-Green Right pre-amp from head unit.
6: Red-Green Left pre-amp from head unit
7: Brown (thicker) Ground
8: 2 Brown-black Grounds for pre-amp leads.

In order to get line out, you just tap into the pre existing wiring using Scotch locks or stripping the wiring insulation and soldering the connection. These instructions will assume you are soldering the connections.

1. Take a set of RCA cables and cut one set of ends off making sure there is enough length to reach the amp.

2. Strip the end exposing about an inch of both the inner core and ground (outer metal sheathing). Do this for both ends then twist the grounds together from the left and right channel.

3. Strip the insulation off of the Blue/Green, Red/Green, and 1 of the Brown/Black wiring from the connector leading to the rear speaker using a razor knife. Do not cut the wires.

4. While you're under there, go ahead and strip the white wire on the connector for the amp's remote turn on.

5. Get a length of small gauge wire for your remote turn on and strip one end.

6. Get your connections ready for soldering by twisting the right RCA's inner core to the Blue/Green wire's stripped section. Then twist the left RCA's inner core to the Red/Green. Then the RCA's twisted ground from the left and right channel to Brown/Black. Finally twist the remote wire to the white wire.

7. Solder and tape up your work.

In order to get power to the amp, I ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I ran ground to one of the bolts underneath the rear seat. Good luck.

Doug

Audi99
05-13-2010, 07:51 PM
Thank you for the nice write up. I'll try to do it on weekends and if I have any questions I'll post it here. Thank you again for your work.

somebody5788
05-15-2010, 12:46 AM
Speaking of stereo systems... after having mine in for a few weeks I find the interior to rattle quite a bit. Namely something on the rear deck and the headliner around where the sunroof controls are. Have any of you experienced these / fixed them? If so, how? I'm not planning on using any dynamat.

The rear deck is held on by nothing but plastic "christmas tree" clips. It could pop up pretty easily and start rattling. I haven't tried to connected any different way but I need to. My sunroof headliner area rattles as well. It's intermittent for me though I just usually pull down on it a little.

Audi99
05-15-2010, 01:25 PM
5: Blue-Green Right pre-amp from head unit.
6: Red-Green Left pre-amp from head unit
Doug

I may have a little different setup. I just checked label on my concert stereo and its the other way around:

Connect the Left channel wire to the blue wire with green stripe.
Connect the Right Channel wire to the blue wire with red stripe.

Cybersombosis
05-15-2010, 06:47 PM
Did everything work out for you?

Doug

Audi99
05-17-2010, 11:20 AM
Yes, I did it yesterday, works fine.

Thanks for the help

Dexterko
12-20-2013, 06:59 AM
Hey guys, I've posted this on another thread, but I kinda need the answer fast, so I'm posting this to every related topic...
Sooo, I got my hands on a A4 B5 avant symphony non-Bose sound system, 4 speakers + a woofer, and a pioneer head unit that I want to put in my Audi 100 C3...the wiring is my problem, since it's not a stock HU...I've connected the 4 speakers (w/ tweeters) on my pioneer @ home, and the sound is ok, but I also want my woofer to work...how can I get the signal for the amp from the Pioneer, and can someone help me on wiring, from the schematics I understand that the red is +12V, the brown is the ground, and the two pairs of twisted wires are the rear speaker outputs...so what are the two white wires for, how do they work, and how do I get the signal for the yellow and the purple wire?

Thanks in advance guys... [:)]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1471321_719669448045737_1248942795_n.jpg

Dexterko
12-25-2013, 03:15 AM
Found it... [:)]
White is the remote for the amp, the other white and yellow are the L and R signal from the HU, the purple one I haven't figured it out, but I assume it's the ground for the audio, but it works the same with or without it...