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View Full Version : Trying to remove my oil pan!! Not easy!!



carbonOX
12-08-2009, 10:44 AM
So I just spent the morning tearing off my subframe to get to my oil pan. Only to find out that the snub mount needs to come off. Where the oil pan connects to the tranny there is a bunch of bolts right, well one is a nut which means the oil pan needs to slide forward when it comes off. And guess why it cant slide forward?? The snub mount!! And of course it looks like I have to remove the bumper and all to get onto the block to remove the snub mount. Guess why I cant remove the front.... I already have the engine on a hoist!! I have to put the whole subframe backtogether so I can have my engine on its mounts again, unhoist it and remove the front, rehoist and remove the subframe! Really?? The germans cant just do shit simple?? Anyone know a diy link for this?? Here have a look at what I am up against....

The hole in the pan! Damn the bad luck!!
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/008.jpg
Pulled the bolts off the subframe, it is down about 8 inches
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/009.jpg
Still barely enough room, and ya thats part of the oil pan. The subframe tucks all the way up in there where the ratchet is, it had to come down
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/006.jpg
The nut that is forcing me to slide the pan forward when i go to pull it off
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/012.jpg
The snub mount that is preventing me from sliding the pan forward, and that flat plate goes up the block and connects to the block up by the belts on the front of the block
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/010.jpg

So as you guys can see I am a little frustrated with the removal. When I knew I had to take the pan off I thought it would be a simple thing. Remove the screws and bolts and walla. Not the case at all. And of course I cant find a diy on a 98 1.8t. I have the link for the bently service manual but it wants to download in zip. Anyone know of a link or a search?? Here is the benltly manual link for those who want it...
http://www.mediafire.com/?xzhbw04j9bh

BlackLock_A4
12-08-2009, 10:48 AM
[o_o] I was thinking about changing my oil pan... but thanks for stopping me before I got in trouble [wrench]. Sorry I can't help [headbang]

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 11:07 AM
[o_o] I was thinking about changing my oil pan... but thanks for stopping me before I got in trouble [wrench]. Sorry I can't help [headbang]

Well mabey once I figure out an easy way I will throw up a diy, simplify it for the masses.

‹bermensch
12-08-2009, 11:13 AM
spray the hell out of all the bolts with PB blaster and wait for the stuff to work.
It may just help you get those suckers out.

Good luck

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 11:27 AM
spray the hell out of all the bolts with PB blaster and wait for the stuff to work.
It may just help you get those suckers out.

Good luck

Its not so much the bolts thats got me stuck, its the whole having to slide the pan forward when it comes off. That plate that is on the snub mount that is preventing me from sliding it forward goes up onto the front of the block. So in order to remove that plate I have to pull my front end off to access the front of the block.

PoormansA4
12-08-2009, 12:19 PM
this shit was a pain, i did it when i swapped my motor for shits and giggles, and ya everything is tucked away..its a pain in the ass, i think the transverse guys have it easier

stormscr3
12-08-2009, 12:37 PM
You need to put your car into the service position. Makes things easy and allows access to snub mount. Involves taking front bumper off and front radiator support assembly.

VMRWheels
12-08-2009, 12:52 PM
i hate it when this happens. Usually, it's not the actual job that's hard / time consuming, it's the million prior steps you need to take to get there [:(]

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:02 PM
You need to put your car into the service position. Makes things easy and allows access to snub mount. Involves taking front bumper off and front radiator support assembly.

Ya sucks i had to have already dropped the subframe and hoisted my engine. Now I have to go back, assemble the subframe so I can have my engine back on its mounts so I can move the hoist to remove the front assembly to gain access to the bracket on the snub mount. Then rehoist and start all over again. Damn the german enginering!!

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:04 PM
i hate it when this happens. Usually, it's not the actual job that's hard / time consuming, it's the million prior steps you need to take to get there [:(]

Really sucks when you have to backtrack those million steps because it was wrong the first time around!! lol

Nebone
12-08-2009, 01:06 PM
I am pretty sure you can just pull the front clip about an inch away from the car instead of removing it all together. This will give you enough room to pull the oil pan forward.

Also, clean up your oil pick up tube while the pan is off. Take a pic of what the screen looks like before cleaning.

ECS Tuning-Audi
12-08-2009, 01:13 PM
With an engine hoist in the way you should still be able to remove the front about the 1 to 3 inches you need to access the snub mount no?

Also, can you brace the sub-frame with a floor jack enough to remove the front?

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:13 PM
I am pretty sure you can just pull the front clip about an inch away from the car instead of removing it all together. This will give you enough room to pull the oil pan forward.

Also, clean up your oil pick up tube while the pan is off. Take a pic of what the screen looks like before cleaning.

Ya I was going to just pull my front out enough to get my hands and tools in. Like this guy did when he changed his timing belt.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pyWOdjdDdc&feature=channel_page

mrk3nn3dy
12-08-2009, 01:14 PM
I got some stuff from work called belzona, we use it on turbines to even out low spots its like jb weld x100 when we grind it the belzona will throw off sparks..its super strong...i am in the process of that right now.

LaserRedKid
12-08-2009, 01:16 PM
Something is not right, cause when i change my snub mount from stock to apiko using the stock bracket, i didn't have to do anything to the front clip. what snub mount do you have in your car?

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:20 PM
With an engine hoist in the way you should still be able to remove the front about the 1 to 3 inches you need to access the snub mount no?

Also, can you brace the sub-frame with a floor jack enough to remove the front?

I could probably reposition the floor jack under the motor. The hoist is pretty snug up against my bumper though......
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/001.jpg

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:23 PM
Something is not right, cause when i change my snub mount from stock to apiko using the stock bracket, i didn't have to do anything to the front clip. what snub mount do you have in your car?

The plate that connects to the snub mount runs up onto the block to and braces to the block.
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/002.jpg

carbonOX
12-08-2009, 01:26 PM
I got some stuff from work called belzona, we use it on turbines to even out low spots its like jb weld x100 when we grind it the belzona will throw off sparks..its super strong...i am in the process of that right now.

Seriously considering this type of route. Also thought about drilling it out threading it and just pluging it with a freakin bolt. But that might not be a good idea, the oil pan is only a few mm's thick, and if something like this happened again, it would just puch a hole right in it. Might try your stuff, since I was just going to take it down and weld it anyways.

LaserRedKid
12-08-2009, 01:38 PM
The plate that connects to the snub mount runs up onto the block to and braces to the block.
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy303/gr3ddy88/002.jpg
For some reason, mine don't have that black bracket thing. Good Luck.

Rhinop21
12-08-2009, 02:04 PM
I remember replacing the oil pan was the biggest pita ever. Loosen up the engine and lift it a few inches, you'll be able to get at all the bolts.

DGAFxxx
12-08-2009, 05:04 PM
I guess I got lucky. I got mine off, new oil pump on and everything buttoned back up in just a few hours.

mrk3nn3dy
12-08-2009, 05:31 PM
Seriously considering this type of route. Also thought about drilling it out threading it and just pluging it with a freakin bolt. But that might not be a good idea, the oil pan is only a few mm's thick, and if something like this happened again, it would just puch a hole right in it. Might try your stuff, since I was just going to take it down and weld it anyways.
I have tried to avoid taking the pan off just because of all the trouble. The Belzona is a two part mixture and I believe its labeled Belzona 1111 It gets really hard I used a grinder on it just a few minutes ago to apply another coat on a smoother surface. Only problem with mine is that it cracked on the threads but luckily I have the chip that cracked out so I beveled it and the plug goes in smoothly so no re-taping is needed =-) The picture I saw of your cracked pan looks like this stuff might work the surface just needs to be ruffed up and apply more then one coat just for reassurance. I will try to find a link online where you can purchase it. I was gonna weld mine as well but I believe the pan is cast aluminum so I am not sure if I can welt that to well.

RockyMountainB5
12-08-2009, 06:04 PM
Seriously considering this type of route. Also thought about drilling it out threading it and just pluging it with a freakin bolt. But that might not be a good idea, the oil pan is only a few mm's thick, and if something like this happened again, it would just puch a hole right in it. Might try your stuff, since I was just going to take it down and weld it anyways.

That sounds like its gonna save you a ton of time/money/headaches.
Plug that sucker, then get something like this:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=374

no more holes!

carbonOX
12-09-2009, 11:11 AM
I have tried to avoid taking the pan off just because of all the trouble. The Belzona is a two part mixture and I believe its labeled Belzona 1111 It gets really hard I used a grinder on it just a few minutes ago to apply another coat on a smoother surface. Only problem with mine is that it cracked on the threads but luckily I have the chip that cracked out so I beveled it and the plug goes in smoothly so no re-taping is needed =-) The picture I saw of your cracked pan looks like this stuff might work the surface just needs to be ruffed up and apply more then one coat just for reassurance. I will try to find a link online where you can purchase it. I was gonna weld mine as well but I believe the pan is cast aluminum so I am not sure if I can welt that to well.

What I did is I went down to indstrial tool supply and got some stuff thats suppose to be like a two part metal. It wasnt Belzona but the guy said it was suppose to be better than jb. So last night threw a layer on it. Just before I went to bed ground it down and threw another layer on. I figure since I have to put the subframe back on anyway might as well see if that stuff holds. If it doesnt I guess I am still right where i am now huh.

carbonOX
12-09-2009, 11:13 AM
That sounds like its gonna save you a ton of time/money/headaches.
Plug that sucker, then get something like this:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=374

no more holes!

Ya that is deffinatly one of my next mods. I am still running a stock suspension, but still better to ride safely!!

carbonOX
12-09-2009, 11:16 AM
So I will update if that worked or not. I am not going to drop any oil in it until I have the subfame back on. That way I can pull the hoist off. So update on its way..... for now time to wrench!!!

wesleyfbm
12-09-2009, 09:35 PM
hmm yah someone needs to get a solid DIY together for this job.
want to get new oil pump, cam chain tensioner, and pick up tube before summer....

carbonOX
12-09-2009, 10:40 PM
hmm yah someone needs to get a solid DIY together for this job.
want to get new oil pump, cam chain tensioner, and pick up tube before summer....

I am at the point where I could do a nice diy, but only if I have to. I know what I have to have happen in order to get the pan off now after some trial and error.... But if that stuff I put over the hole holds then no sense in tearing into it just to educate the masses. I am a nice guy and all, but thats just not gonna happen.. lol

RockyMountainB5
12-10-2009, 07:33 AM
I am at the point where I could do a nice diy, but only if I have to. I know what I have to have happen in order to get the pan off now after some trial and error.... But if that stuff I put over the hole holds then no sense in tearing into it just to educate the masses. I am a nice guy and all, but thats just not gonna happen.. lol

Maybe you should just write up as far as you have gotten, and post some pics? Down the road someone else might take what you have started and expand on it.
But i guess thats only if you are feeling charitable.
[:D]

wesleyfbm
12-10-2009, 12:08 PM
Maybe you should just write up as far as you have gotten, and post some pics? Down the road someone else might take what you have started and expand on it.
But i guess thats only if you are feeling charitable.
[:D]

x2

carbonOX
12-10-2009, 12:42 PM
x2

All right all right guys.... Let me throw the front brackets back onto my subframe. I threw the rear brackets back on last night when I got home from work. After that I can throw some oil in and see if the quick fix is going to hold under pressure. So mabey this evening I can take some more pics and try to assemble a diy. All but removing the front clip and bracket on the snub mount. lol
[wrench]

wesleyfbm
12-10-2009, 03:37 PM
^ life saver!!