1998 A4 1.8TQM GT3071R build starting

[EuroDriven]

..

[Seerlah]

I do hope you plan on adding rods to that engine. I would also go with a quality intercooler when pushing that much hp. I would not trust an ebay intercooler past maybe 400chp. Even though it may be rated for it, I would still assume the fin design would still permit heat soak after a couple pulls. I would suggest something like a Precision core with custom piping, if you don't want to go with proven ones such as ER. Also, GIAC does not do BT tunes for the ME5. They only have BT tunes for the ME7, and they are weak sauce. Go with Unitronics or Eurodyne (CTapp).

[TighTT]

I have an extra brand new ford MAF if you need one.

[Seerlah]

Use a boost controller to regulate boost. EBC is better than an MBC. Do some research on which ones work best. The most popular used on here is the Greddy Profec B, but that is not the best unit. I read the HKS EVC4 is a very good unit.

[jrock]

Greddy Profec B just posted...
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=26396&cat=all

[jrock]

Its gonna be a hell of a lot safer runnin something to control the boost so youre not overboosting or anything. After spending the amount of money you have so far you mind as well shell out a little bit more to protect your investment.[up]

[lowandslow4now]

You cant regualte boost below what the WG spring is. With some EBC you can set boost dependant on gear and also set high and low boost settings. With a MBC you just set it and forget it. With a 3071 you should be fine for 10 psi.

[lowandslow4now]

I am still on a stock clutch I keep saying I will replace but I havent had a need to. I am running 20psi on a t3/t4 setup with no slippage. I just won't launch hard on it.

[Seerlah]

You need to drain all fluids, install lines, then place new fluid in. Upon restarting, be sure to prime turbo by cranking the engine a few times for roughly 3 min with the fuse for the fuel pump removed (you don't want the engine to turn over). Also, leave a couple seconds between cranks and only crank for a few seconds each time. You don't want to burn out your starter. Plug the fuse for the fuel filter back in and start her up. Now, you can properly bleed the coolant system, check for any leaks, make sure she is running fine, etc.

[Seerlah]

You referring to the PCV piping? You can remove it altogether and install a vented catch can setup. Use the search function to find out how people set their up. There are a couple threads on it. Since you are installing a full frame setup, you would want to remove the pcv system altogether and run a custom intake (boost controller in place of n75, but still keep it electronically plugged in and have the pcv valve removed). Then have a vented oil ctahc can setup, mounted properly.

[Seerlah]

I am not sure about the AN fittings, I am still learning tings myself. You can maybe ask that in the regular section and recieve more resposes, if you could not find it from searching. I would get new washers from the dealership. Washers play a very important role. In this case, not for leaks as the gasket will take care of that. But you don't want the nuts to become seized to the manifold itself (plus you want the nut to spin the washer and not the manifold). And it will lay flat on the manifold without washer vs having the bolt lay on it to prevent cracking. You could resuse the washers if you want, but they should not be too expensive from the dealership. Also, use high temp antiseize on metal to metal areas (don't use a gasket on the "wastegate to manifold" and "turbo to manifold". they are known for breaking due to the heat and having peices fly into the turbo. maybe just apply a very small amount of gasket maker to create a seal). If you fear any bolts coming loose, check them periodically and eventually the anti-seize won't be so potent to loosen the bolts due to movement of the engine. You could also invest in locking tabs. Solid mounts are also a very good way to prevent bolts/nuts from coming loose (or not). Not to mention the you really want less drivetrain movement as possible.

Edit: Send a PM to A4Rob and he can move this thread to the proper section. Main mods now, the the build forum once you get the ball rolling with pics[up].

[Lou_B5]

Hey John,

Arnold will hook you up. Just give him a shout. He came through for me when I needed fittings for the turbo in a pinch.

In a nut shell you need these:

Oil Drain:(from turbo to oil pan)
- GT drain flang kit (drain fitting for turbo, gasket, bolts, & adapter to -10an.)
- appropriate length -10an ss braid hose for the spa mani turbo location with 2 -10an hose fittings.
- -10AN to 1/2 NPT 45 degree fitting for the oil pan.

Oil send:(from oil filter to turbo)
- 1/4NPT to -4an oil filter adapter fitting
- appropriate length -4an ss braid line to run from oil filter to turbo with 2 4an hose fittings.
- -4an oil restrictor fitting for gt28-35 turbos

Everything above can be put into a "kit" from Arnold. If it's just some pieces you need, just call and ask for the ones you need.

Good luck!

Get this thing moved over to the projects section pronto!

[Seerlah]

For your sig (http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=27332)

Edit: Just realised, you should get a BOV (maybe the Forge 004) and mount it on the cold side piping of your intercooler.

[lowandslow4now]

Tapp is not using the lighting MAFs anymore?

[Lou_B5]

looks to me that the one on the left goes on the turbo and the 2 on the right are for the oil pan.

[Seerlah]

There is a proper way to clocking the turbo. You are supposed to loosen the 6 bolts (do not remove) on the compressor housing and the 6 bolts on the exhaust housing to the point that you can turn them with your fingers. Then you can clock the turbo to how you want it and tighten the bolts back up.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=1146

[A4Rob]

Moved to projects and builds for you John




Another question, can I rotate the compressor housing on the turbo to have the IC Piping go down more directly.

-John


John- I would not clock the turbo straight down because you will not have any room for your intake. That is why I had mine going on the outside of the frame rail.



1 question I got reminded of today is how do I run an rs4 bumper? and where is the cheapest place to get 1?n

You can try to find one here in the classifieds, or get one from www.lltek.com
This is assuming you just want a replica bumper. For OEM, go through www.achtuning.com

Good luck with the build!

Rob

[Seerlah]

I am no expert, but the simplest way to install a vented catch can setup in place of the pcv sustem. Instead of having the blow by gases rerouted into your intake system, you simply filter it and have it vent into the atmosphere, via vented catch can setup. You would get rid of the pcv and system altogether. Also, no n75 bung in your custom intake, but you would instead be using a boost controller (keep n75 plugged in electronically). THere are various places that sell ctach cans, but you need to get one that our cars like. Not all catch cans are really universal. You can send a PM to Issam@034, and he should help you out with anything related to your build that you would need help on. Really good person.

I did a quick search, but can not find it. There is a thread where people posted up pics of their catch can setups. If you can find it, it will give you an idea on how you may want to route it, mount it, etc.

As for the VAG Com, it is a software made by Ross-Tech. It is a diagnostic tool that permits you to do many things, like look up fault codes, recode the ECU, log blocks, etc. I have an ebay cable and the 311 software from Ross Tech. I would suggest you get the actual cable from Ross Tech and you can download any of their programs you want. This link (http://www.ross-tech.com/) should answer all your VAG questions. If you need to know which block to log and so forth, it can be found on this website. Along with many things, like the fault code def, how to diagnose them, etc.

Read here (http://www.audigeeks.com/forums/index.php?topic=2769.0) on how to ptoperly conduct a compression test. And yes, you acess the cylinders from the spark plug sockets.

[CrtchRktRcr]

your springs suck! i hate them

good luck with your build

[Gaberossi]

is it me or is that green coolant on the ground [confused]

[PoormansA4]

is it me or is that green coolant on the ground [confused]

lol i noticed that too[:|]

[A4Rob]

Thanks rob, I realized that after my question was answered, I saw its harder to reroute a 4 inch pipe. Does your intake go straight down rob or what?


Yes my intake went straight down. Search Chris Tapp intake and you will find a whole thread dedicated to it.


And do I need a catch can for anything? I am sure you know all of this Rob.

I ran mine off the block to the 034 vortex can.




Oh and I need a vagcom or cable or whatev it is. I understand what vagcom is I just don't know specifics, I could couldn't find anything helping me on google, any help here? I know I am gonna have TONS of issues getting this running strong because I have no clue if there we any issues before I tore this apart. Also, what about tests should I run while getting ready to start up or what to check when I do start it up to make sure everything is to par. I think I will change my plugs too, but while they are out I figure I can do a compression test (thats where you access the cylinders from right?) too.
Pull your spark plugs out. That is the easiest way.


What plugs should I run, I remember reading things about a bosch or ngk i think.

NGK BRK7e or the Bosch Tri-electrode plugs (034 has them)

[A4Rob]

Since you are a 98, you do not have SAI or the vac in exhaust. I pulled everything out. capped the evap ends and just run a crankcase vent to my catch can. I removed the gas tank check valves and ran it vented. I do not get a gas smell when the car is on.

The only code I throw is open circuit for evap system. No biggie

Since I do not have emissions testing here in MN it does not matter if I run a CEL.

[Seerlah]

Seerlah do you know if I would be able to just hook a hose up to the crank case to get it running? I wont be driving the car for a while. I still need a clutch and need to do something about my syncros in second. I don't know if I just want to get a new tranny and take a $700 short cut or if the 2nd gear is at the top of the stack and easy to get to. Anybody good with these trannies? Could I pull a whole shaft assembled and ship it somewhere?

-John

You would need proper size hoses and fittings. The system has vacuum pressure, so you can't just throw any catch can setup on. Which is why I said you need to get one our cars like. If you send a PM to Issam@034, he can sell you a catch can setup for our vehicles.

[Wizard-of-OD]

Yup
just send me a PM[up]

[Doctor]

Since you are a 98, you do not have SAI or the vac in exhaust. I pulled everything out. capped the evap ends and just run a crankcase vent to my catch can. I removed the gas tank check valves and ran it vented. I do not get a gas smell when the car is on.

The only code I throw is open circuit for evap system. No biggie

Since I do not have emissions testing here in MN it does not matter if I run a CEL.

Did exactly the same long ago. It is the only CEL i get on....
Big Turbo, MafLess, evap is the only thing that throws me a CEL...

Removing the SAI system, and then the AC stuff, helped me sooooooooo much putting my BT on the car....No question about it....[up]

[dcampana]

looking forward to seeing the updates John...

[A4Rob]

I ran that turbo with no upgraded rods for a summer. It held the power fine, but I would not trust it for the long term.

[Doctor]

If the tune is done this way, that there is no boost in mid rpms, and just put the boost up after 5500 rpms till 7000-7200 it will hold just fine...
It will have power, but no torque...Torque is the cause of rods going wrong...
So get an AVC-R, keep the boost low below 5500 rpms, by low i mean not more than 15psi, and then gradually go to 25 psi at the rev limiter...

Something like that...u get the idea...but rods pistons and the whole lot, should be on the buy list for all of us...

[A4Rob]

Still wondering about my last post, but I forgot to bring my cam to the shop today so I had to use my cell.

My big question that I need answered asap so I can get to putting this together is how do I tighten the middle lower nut on the exhaust manifold for a SPA manifold. I can get the sides by getting underneath with a wrench but cannot see a way to get at it from the top because the manifold is in the way, but there seems to be no way to get a wrench on it from underneath, let alone getting at it from underneath...

I am not sure what other people do...I am going to PM Rob and see what he has to say since I got the manifold from him.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4400398890_15b568623a_o.jpg

Lemme know what you all think! Hopefully I can get the manifold on tomorrow and turbo bolted down.

I got the Godspeed Intercooler mounted today as well.

Tomorrow I am looking to get some progress on the intake side. I am having troubles seeing how the plastic piece I got goes in there. I will look for my cam tonight to take pics.

Thanks for all the help!

-John

John- I trimmed the lower studs on my head, however prior to trimming them I did install this manifold with full length studs. Barely hang the spa manifold on the studs and get the bottom nuts started, then push the manifold flush to the head and tighten all the way.

Hope that helps...

[lowandslow4now]

I have mine installed with uncut studs. Start it like Rob said and take a wrench and you will only be able to turn a quarter turn at a time. It is tedious but it will get them tight.

[Xlr8nrg]

If I remember correctly... I had to grind down a wrench a little bit so it would rotate the quarter turn at a time...

[dowsett6]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4416289540_3205eedce2.jpg

here you go man. i just right click the pics and hit properties and take the img link that way...

Plus.. Your car is looking good.

[mainer0311]

Any pics of the DP? What did you use for bends to make it?

Cooper

[Seerlah]

I was at my mechanics shop the other day, and he just purchased a B6 A4 that had an issue with it (can't recall what it was). So, he purchased it for rather cheap. His plan is to make it his dd (he has a VR6 Passat) with a GT3071R. But he started by doing rods. What he did was remove the head, take off the oil pan, leave the shortblock in the vehicle, and replaced the rods that way. Crank stays in the car, but I can not recall what he removed from the short block to get to the rods. Anyways, you would need a new head gasket set, rods, and rod bearings. If you want to replace your piston rings, this may be a good time to do it. What he did was remove the head, take the oil pan off, then knock them loose from underneath to make the pop out the top. I was not there for reassembling, but I assume he dropped the pistons along with rings back in through the top, then attached them to the crank from underneathe. My mechanic charges $1000 labor for rod install (no parts included).

But yeah, the bare minimum would be dropping the pan, removing the head, and taking the rods along with pistons out the top. He was able to get all of them out in maybe 20-30 min with he and one other person.

Your engine code is an AEB, and has the large port IM. It is starting in 00, that Audi switched to the small port heads. The wastegate line also does go to your boost controller. Stock, the n75 was your boost controller. You are now replacing the n75 with whatever controller you choose. Not too sure about the oil and coolant lines. I am just going by what I know.

[Seerlah]

Don't forget, you need to fab up an intake that will have maybe 2.5"-3" of straight pipe before and after the MAF. You would also want to try and fab a bracket for it also, so as to decrease as much turbulance as possible. This is the big issue when it comes to having the BT tunes run proerly on MAF setups. But it can, and has been done numerous times. it is just at times, it takes people playing around with configurations till they find one that works. But seeing how the SPA is so popular, you can just copy how someone else set theirs up.

[Lou_B5]

Is it Monday yet? Summer is around the corner. Git R done.

[dowsett6]

Hey John, im not sure if you found the gearing ratios or not yet. but:

Transmission Drive Ratios

1.8 T 1.8 T Quattro 2.8 2.8 Quattro S4
First 3.5 3.78 3.5 3.5 3.5
Second 2.12 2.18 1.84 1.84 1.89
Third 1.30 1.43 1.30 1.30 1.23
Fourth 1.03 1.03 0.94 0.94 0.97
Fifth 0.84 0.84 0.79 0.79 0.81 (6th = 0.68)
Final Drive 3.7 3.89 3.7 3.89 4.11

[dowsett6]

apparently i can't have more than one space in a row...

Yours are

1.8t-- 3.78, 2.18, 1.43, 1.03, 0.84 = 3.89
2.8-** 3.5, 1.84, 1.30, 0.94, 0.79 = 3.89

[Seerlah]

I think the 2.8 tranny also allows your turbo to be a bit more lag, but not substantial.

[Lou_B5]

I feel you. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands.

[Lou_B5]

werd! u got PM

[Seerlah]

What vehicle is the V8 MAF from and what size is it?

[Seerlah]

Maybe pay more attention to the brackets/joints/hinges on the door, if alignment is the issue. Could have been one of those parts that bent, or possibly torqued while not aligned.

[ZacharyWS]

John, ill be at the beach and BWW in henrietta on sunday night if you wanna stop out and check out maestro 7 ME3.8 in action

[ZacharyWS]

What vehicle is the V8 MAF from and what size is it?

MAF is from audi V8 4.2L (a6's a8) its 4 inch and is still sourced from audi using the JX PN for the refurb

[GR-RALLYE]

you can use high temp hose for your catch can, hell probably even heater hose, you dont need the braided line, its for looks. i mounted my catch can over by where my coolant reservoir used to be

i have my coolant reservoir behind the firewall. get the round one out of a vw and it fits nicely back there, as well as retaining the stock coolant level sensor.

I also put my power steering reservoir behind the firewall.

I left the washer fluid reservoir where it is but im sure it can be easily removed and placed behind the firewall also with a smaller reservoir for just the windshield.

hose clamps shouldnt be an issue as long as the pipes are bead rolled at the ends. I've had problems in the past with cheap couplers and high boost, not so much the hose clamps. if possible get it welded up saves a lot of headache in the long run

[GR-RALLYE]

also to snap the bumper on push real hard on it with you knee once its lined up and it'l snap back in there

[GR-RALLYE]

Yup, my battery is in my trunk.

for the power steering reservoir I bought a coolant tank, on ebay, a round stainless one, cut it down, re-welded it and replaced the small nipples on it with much larger ones and then ran some -8(? not really sure anymore) hose to it. i would just ask the guys at napa or autozone what type of line they have that can handle the fluids.

I put my abs back there also, only thing left on right side is my washer fluid res.

depending on how far you want to take it, you can do a wire tuck pretty simply by running the main harness behind the firewall and out through the drain on the bottom

for the catch can it doesn't really matter what you run, right now mine is braided line from the intake boot to back of valve cover where its spliced into hose and rest is just high-temp hose. you shouldn't need to take the intake mani off either to put the crank case breather adapter on it, it just clips in.

for the bumper the tabs are most likely bent a little but just take a screwdriver and bend them down, you will understand when you look at them.

[ZacharyWS]

john, ditch the ebay clamps... i had 2 of them literally explode on me at 17psi last weekend, not fun..... if you really want some i have a pile of them that I ordered..... then i had to replace them with good ole clamp-co's

[Wizard-of-OD]

I am not using ebay clamps I said earlier I physically couldn't get them to tighten because of the garbage hardware they gave me with them.

-John
When is this going to be done?

[GR-RALLYE]

lookin good.. what are your plans for suspension, brakes, etc?

[ZacharyWS]

John, call me if you want toureg brakes... I can get them NIB for less than 600, they bolt on to S4 spindles IIRC and someone makes adapters for the a4 spindles.... the rotors are about 120 each as well.


Sorry I did not have time to chat the other night, had to race a c6 vette..... he got me by a fender....

[ZacharyWS]

under the hump in the trunk is the evap, rip it out.

[dowsett6]

Got a triple gauge pod for the A pillar, I am gonna pull the A pillar trim out of my 96 and try to start glassing that to make it fit and look nice.

Just wanna get it STARTED! Just waiting for the parts in the mail for this, also what do I do to calibrate an adjustable FPR?

-John

I planned on doing that as well. But the 96 A pillar wouldn't fit my 99. Just check before you put all the work into it.

and I have read on there that to set the AFPR properly, you calibrate them with the key on, but not started. So that the fuel pump is priming the lines.

[dowsett6]

Yes mine is a facelift, and if I find the posts about the fuel pressure I will send you the link. I read so much here it all becomes a big blur of info

[SpeedWorksAuto]

My coolant to the turbo was ran from the nipple close to the intake cam postion sensor to the turbo, and it drains out to the hole in the block that you mentioned.

[dowsett6]

My coolant to the turbo was ran from the nipple close to the intake cam postion sensor to the turbo, and it drains out to the hole in the block that you mentioned.

It flows the other way I am pretty sure. From the coolant nipple on the block, through the turbo, to the hotside rad hose. But yes John thats the nipple you want.

And if your fuel injectors are to tall, they have spacers to still allow them to work. The spacers just push the fuel rail up higher.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

Maybe its different since my engine is a 06A, but I hooked mine up like it was hooked up when I was Ko3. Theres no spot on the rad hoses for anything to hook up in my car.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

LOL, he decscribed it the way I did in reverse now that I think about it. I dont know which way it actually flows I just know it hooks up to those two points. The nipple in the hardpipe and the hole in the block.

[SpeedWorksAuto]

this is from when I was GT3071. You can see the one line from the nipple/hardline, and the one going to the block.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00224.jpg

[dowsett6]

LOL, he decscribed it the way I did in reverse now that I think about it. I dont know which way it actually flows I just know it hooks up to those two points. The nipple in the hardpipe and the hole in the block.

exactly haha. I was just making sure people know what way it flows. The hot side rad hose is the top hose off the rad which attaches to the hardpipe above the IM.

Some people where saying that you should run a hose from the nipple to the the hard pipe when running aircooled turbos elsewhere on AZ... You dont actually have to.

[lowandslow4now]

I have mine gapped to .026. I had mine at .028 and I hated the way it ran I was getting more popping on deceleration

[dowsett6]

Quick Tap ports. (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1) I'm using one of these for my wastegate vacuum line.

And the DV should go into the intake lines after the MAF, as the air was already metered.

[dowsett6]

034 sells those quick tap nipples aswell. I'm not sure which shipping would be cheaper for you.

[dowsett6]

I haven't seen any nipples like that for 1" I know you can get metal couplers with a 1" nipple on them though.

But I'm finishing up my AEB build and running Chris's ford file, and I am using an SSQV bov on it. You can see it on the driver side under the headlight.

http://www.quinteeurosports.com/az/background.png

[dowsett6]

But if you want to run the DV still, you can use something like option 1 (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=11&products_id=458&osCsid=9b843f5f06a45dd3451822984d9aff5a) or option 2 (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=11&products_id=455&osCsid=9b843f5f06a45dd3451822984d9aff5a) but in the right size plumbing

[dowsett6]

Yep the BOV is being feed a vacuum line from the front of the IM where the vacuum line used to go to the DV. It makes the intake pretty simple, just turbo to maf to filter, no mess.

And I know its a little ricerish of me, but I am hoping that the bov will make the car run a bit rich when I shift so I can shoot flames haha.

And no wax, just freshly washed. I will have to detail it soon though.

[dowsett6]

Hopefully they even each other out to a nice euro feel.

[dowsett6]

Stock would be: after turbo pipe to DV, then DV to before turbo pipe (but after MAF).
BOV would be: after turbo pipe to BOV, then BOV to atmoshpere.

and either of those options would be connected to the vacuum line from the IM

[dowsett6]

any place after the turbo is fine. but people say the closer to the throttle body the better. the stock DV is between the turbo and the crossover rail. and the bov usually goes between the IC and the IM.

But its all personal preference, I like mine closer to the throttle body for a couple reasons. one being that the air isn't being pushed back through the IC the wrong direction and hitting my turbine in the turbo causing a shatter, and two because its an easy spot to work from and you need less vacuum hose.

[ZacharyWS]

john i have a spare V8 MAF wiring harness if your in need. some assembly required of course.

[GR-RALLYE]

yup its the same bellhousing

[Doctor]

Some pics would really help us all follow this project in a nicer way....I am sure many of us want to.

Cheers man

[goody6691]

i had the same issue with the fpr, we had it in backwards.

[Seerlah]

Your fpr gauge is on the wrong line. I used to think that was the feed line also, at first. But it isn't. The feed line goes to the end of the fuel line (stock fuel line) closest to the front of the vehicle and the fpr maintains pressure from the rail all the way back to the pump/tank. And glad to see you got it started. Now, time for some tweeks (look overs) to get her running smoothly.

And that plug on the IM is your IAT (air intake temp) sensor. There is a plug for it somewhere (along with clip to hold plug in place, but zip ties can be very helpfull if you can't locate it), you just need to find it.

Edit: Any ETA on those headlight bolts?

[Seerlah]

Not sure about the idling issue. If it were dbw, I would say to do a TBA. Not sure what procedures, if any, would be needed on the dbc. But I would look into the main culprits (assuming that the plug for the IAT sensor isn't causing the issue). FPR (you would need to know what pressure you are running at via gauge to determine if you have proper pressure), MAF, intake setup, and associated wiring. Then move onto other variables, such as injector seating.

Also, I checked on my car and the connector for the IAT sensor comes from the same harness that the throttle body conector and MAP (AWM) sensor comes from. PM sent.

[Seerlah]

I was thinking that was the issue, but I don't know how to perform it for the dbc nor if the dbc vehicles even needed to have that performed. Now, I know. For the dbw, we just need to keep the key in the ignition for a couple minutes (I do it for roughly 10 to be safe).

Edit: Here ya go Clicky Click (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html). I hope you have a VAG com. If not, I suggest you get one. Especially more now, since you are BT. This may be a good time to check if the key in the ignition method will work on the dbc (I know it has been proven/disproven before, but the new search function sucks IMO. I haven't searched something on Audizine for a couple months now. eveything is done via Google).

[Seerlah]

What you need an engine hoise for? You install your clutch yet?

[Seerlah]

You doing the rods yourself? My mechanic quoted me $1500 for install, and that is just for labor.

[Seerlah]

Be sure to keep track of orientation. That's the biggie. And good luck[up]. Also not to add to your budget, but this may be a good time for lightweight pulleys.

[Dan[FN]6262]

Yea, it should be pretty easy, pull the oil pan, valve cover and unbolt the head. 2 bolts per rod, bring them somewhere to press the wrist pins out, reinstall w/ ring compressor and reassemble.

The hardest part is either pull the motor or sub-frame which I will have the motor out anyways.

you don't press the wristpins out. there is a circlip that holds them in. they are floating wrist pins. i just recently built my bottom end and *top* end. its just time consuming.


*cant spell for shit this morning*

[Dan[FN]6262]

dont do a lightweight pulley. it increases vibration inside the engine, slowly killing the lifespan of it. if you're going to do a pulley, do a fluidamper. they're like 430 bucks, but well worth it. even tho its heavier, dynos have proven you can pick up like 5 hp just installing one, because of how much vibration it absorbs from the engine.

[dowsett6]

you happen to be running an intake spacer? I am on mine and with my cruise control threaded out as far as it will go, it still holds the tb open just enough that it was triggering an error. unhooked the cruise control and the tb closes and its good to go.

[GR-RALLYE]

are you runnin ac with that intake setup?

[A4Rob]

Are you running any flow straighteners with the intake setup?

[nagle10]

He is using the new audi v8 maf tune not the ford lightning maf. The audi one uses two screens to direct air flow. I'm running the same tune and have a filter clamped right up to the maf and the idle is rock solid.

[dowsett6]

2nd pic is what everyone calls the rear main seal which is the same as the rear crank seal

[dwi_gti]

Build is coming along nicely, good luck on getting that throttle issue fixed. Your best bet is probly buying a new throttle. Sometime the throttles go bad and wont adapte but that rough idle is due to an unadapted throttle, once its sorted out im sure the tune will run awesome.

[ZacharyWS]

John. Those misfires are most likely from the throttle issue. There really isn't any fixing them other than a complete replacement.
Take a look at the first block on the left when your doing the adaptation. If those values don't rise and fall in a smooth mannor the TB is done for.

For the transmission I run Red line heavy weight shock proof for now. When winter comes and I drop my boost down ill be running the factory fluid.

[Wizard-of-OD]

So is this what you been busy doing?

[JumboBlack1.8]

Did you balance the rotating assembly before putting everything back together? highly recommended

[Dan[FN]6262]

as long as you put the pistons back in the cylinders that they came out of, you'll be fine.

[dowsett6]

Your idle issue is due to the BOV, I have the exact same thing happen to me when i pop it into neutral while driving around. To get around it I keep it in gear till about idle when coming up to stops and it hasn't died on me yet.

[black99.5a4]

No, I didn't think I would need to since the rods are all balanced to +/- 1 g and the flywheel and clutch are all balanced before hand.

actually.. if you would of taken it to get it balanced.. even your stock parts, would of seen some material missing to get it closer for when you plan to high rev it.. OEM TDI crank in my B6 build, had material removed. CM pressure plate that says pre balanced, needed some weight added to it in 2 spots. ECS flywheel that is suppose to be balanced, needed some material removed.

Shoulda spent the 150 bucks.


as long as you put the pistons back in the cylinders that they came out of, you'll be fine.

This is true for a stock build, but when high revving, unbalanced rotating assembly is the killer or cause of the killer, most of the times. Like I said above, OEM is balanced within a percentage. If you take it to a good machine shop, they will get a lot closer, a lot tigher of a percentage.

[black99.5a4]

Your idle issue is due to the BOV, I have the exact same thing happen to me when i pop it into neutral while driving around. To get around it I keep it in gear till about idle when coming up to stops and it hasn't died on me yet.

I never had this issue when running my Forge 004. I'd say both of you have a small vacuum leak somewhere.

[dowsett6]

Due to not recirculating the air. The engine thinks X amount of air is going in so it dumps X amount of fuel. but you get rid of Y amount of air through your BOV, so then the 02 sensor notices that and tries to correct it by cutting Y amount of fuel, but which time your BOV is closed and your back at X amount of air. So now the 02 sensor tries dumping more fuel, over and over again... which makes your idle go up and down.

[black99.5a4]

I think what you're thinking of when you're shifting, you run rich b/c its dumping fuel.. the BOV shouldnt be affecting your idle at all. My car idled perfectly and ran fine (other then slightly and i mean EVER so slightly between shifts) for 2+ years with a BOV.. no bad idle, no idle search, etc.

[dowsett6]

I think what you're thinking of when you're shifting, you run rich b/c its dumping fuel.. the BOV shouldnt be affecting your idle at all. My car idled perfectly and ran fine (other then slightly and i mean EVER so slightly between shifts) for 2+ years with a BOV.. no bad idle, no idle search, etc.

ohhh, ya that makes more sense. Maybe it is because of our ford mafs then?

[black99.5a4]

It might be. Hit up Tapp for a revision. He uses 4.2 Audi V8 MAF's now. Might help.

[black99.5a4]

My issue isn't how the car idles, its how the car goes back to idle, which is what I think dowsett6 is saying too. When I rev mine, it has a hard time finding the correct idle point. If you don't recirculate the air wouldn't this cause this issue.

Also, contrary to what I have been told should be happening, I am building boost without the engine being under load (aka not driving the car).

Also what are the chances of an intercooler leaking air?

What air are you recirculating at idle and revving up? none.. you only recirculate or blow off, when you are building enough boost to make the spring move, piston open, etc.

[black99.5a4]

you arent getting my point.

you are saying b/c your car isnt recirculating air that its causing your issue.. i've said countless times above that i ran a BOV for 2 years on my car without a single idling issue.. my ONLY issue was between shifts, it would get slightly rich real quick, something you couldnt even notice driving the car...

you are asking that when you rev the car up and let it fall, it cant find idle at first.. there is no REAL boost at idle, to circulate back into the system to "help you find your idle".. its not your BOV that is causing your issue, unless its leaking where ever its clamped on.

this could be a MAF issue, MAF placement issue.. tunes are very sensitive to where the MAF is placed.. in relation to how close or far away any bends are in the TIP. You are trying to follow a road that isnt your issue, imo.

[nunya]

Whats your throttle angle looking like? Max should be =<90 degrees.

Linky (http://www.pvv.org/~shane/stasj/pics/motor/dokumentasjon/A4-S4_B5/Fuel%20injection%20and%20ignition/AEB/MFI/24-99%20Throttle%20valve%20control%20module%20&%20checking.pdf)

--dillon

[lowandslow4now]

I don't know if this helps but when I first setup my BT I had a Baileys DV vented to atmosphere and it ran like crap. The idle when cold would be about 1k and bounce alittle, once it got warm most of the symptoms went away. But were still similar. Also I had an issue with the way my maf was setup. At first it was setup with a 90, then MAF and filter. It would cause me to stall if at a cruise and then put into neutral. I solved it by putting a 90,then about 12" pipe, 90 and then MAF and Filter. After I changed both things the car ran perfect for me with no issues. Good luck and I hope you get it settled.

[lowandslow4now]

I never did I ended up just picking up the forge 004 BOV.

[lowandslow4now]

From when I tested it before I swapped to the BOV the DV stays partially open. You can test by put your hand over the DV creating a seal and rev it alittle and see if it gets better. I am not familiar with the tapp file and what the MAF should be pulling at idle.

[A4Rob]

[=(] Now for sale:

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=44994

I no longer have anywhere to work on the car so the project is doomed if I keep it. Also, with the commitment I need to make to school, I don't have the time for a car that requires this much attention anymore.

Priced at $7000 firm. Before anybody hates on the price, there is EASILY over $5000 worth of parts on the car.

Sad to see, but good luck with the sale. Someone will get a very good deal.

[onemoremile]

Just unplug the MAF and see if the idle situation changes. That will let you know if it is the culprit.

What are your vac readings when at a steady idle?

[nunya]

I was told by someone tonight they had the same problem when they didn't have their vacuum canister connected. I don't think I even have the metal rod and rubber bulb connected, but I know for sure I broke the T that is between the bulb and the canister. I didn't think any of this was tied to throttle, I guess next time I screw with the car I should try to fix this and see if it works.

Mine is removed completely. No issues.

[nunya]

Your vacuum canister or the rod and bulb on the TB?

Also, I found a cheap shop, so the project is back on. Car should be out here in august, I will be working on it all winter. Probably gonna pull the engine again and do some more stuff in the engine bay. But first I really want to figure out this issue for getting it to run correctly.

Anything cruise control related. When i put the IM spacer on it made it all rather useless. I never use CC anyways on either of my cars.

--dillon