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socal_A4
10-10-2009, 10:49 PM
I am looking to get a mbc and I was browsing ebay and came across this one..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Wastegate-Manual-Boost-Controller-Control-MBC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518d454e39QQitemZ35 0262480441QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-EVO-Nissan-Toyota-SRT-BLUE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem25566c98d4QQitemZ1 60363747540QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories Is this one better quality??

obviously not all mbc are created equal.. What would be the difference between this 15 dollar one and some 70 dollar one? They are both going to accomplish the same task right?? Also EBC vs. MBC Can someone take me to school about these? Thanks guys

Seerlah
10-10-2009, 11:00 PM
EBC is electric boost control and MBC is mechanical boost control. You get what you pay for, and I run with this one (http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/A-03.htm). The better ones on the market are units such as Turbo XS, but they cost a pretty penny. You would want a bleed valve/ball spring unit.

ghost6303
10-10-2009, 11:02 PM
EBC - controllable from inside the cabin. you can set boost on the fly, and very accurately (digtal).

MBC - you have to pop the hood to adjust boost. less precise. though it costs about 10x less then an EBC.


http://www.boostcontroller.com/display_page.php?i=22
there are essentially 3 types of MBCs, ball-and-spring, bleed valve, and hybrid which is a combination.

ball and spring valves prevent wastegate creep but feel choppy, which is bad on a small torque-y turbo like a K03.

bleed type valves are smoother but allow some pressure past to the wastegate making it creep open prematurely.

hybrid valves use a bleed valve in front of a ball and spring valve and prevent WG creep while being less choppy.

the more quality (expensive does not necessarily = quality remember) valves are sturdier, easier to dial in, more accurate, etc.

unless you have a real reason to use an MBC, dont. just putting one on a stock A4 just to have it is pointless and most of the time a big headache to me for having to read your "i installed an MBC and my car runs like crap now" threads. unless you have the need for one and/or the knowledge properly set it up, keep your N75.

Seerlah
10-10-2009, 11:08 PM
While on topic, what do people use to plug the n75 valve hole on the TIP when bypassing the n75? I am running mine parallel and am thinking about bypassing the n75 altogether.

ghost6303
10-10-2009, 11:10 PM
just leave the n75 plugged into the electrical connection and into the TIP, then take a piece of vac line and loop it between the two other connections on the N75.

Seerlah
10-10-2009, 11:12 PM
^Never would have thought of that. Thanks!

biketsai
10-11-2009, 12:20 AM
I have a VAST MBC I can sell you. PM me if interested.

socal_A4
10-11-2009, 12:22 AM
Serrlah you have been extremely helpful Thank you, and thank all of you guys for all the helpful info. What is the benefit of bypassing the N75 with the mbc? Also newb question here.. But what is the TIP? Switchin gears... The GT71r is the biggest elim turbo right? I am thinking about going BT. I live in socal so emissions are strict.. Anybody on here have personal experience with the gtrs and the GT71r? Looking for minimal lag with a strong pull till redline.. Looking for "s4 power in a4 money" and I want to be able to hang with/ beat 350s, g35, evos, older m3s, and I would love to see the sad face of some kid with a subie in my rearview.. TIA

socal_A4
10-11-2009, 12:25 AM
I have a VAST MBC I can sell you. PM me if interested.
You got pm

Seerlah
10-11-2009, 09:02 AM
The TIP is the Turbo Inlet Pipe. The plastic tube that goes from the stock airbox to the compressor inlet of the turbo charger. When you go with the eliminator kit, you will want to upgrade this to a silicone one. You will more than likely be using a 3" MAF and the stock one is 2.75". 034 Motorsports sells a TIP to accomodate for the larger diameter MAF that should be needed. The stock airbox is good to a GTRS power. But if you are going with the GT2871R (yes, this is the largest eliminator), you would want to add a custom intake setup after the MAF.

With bypassing the n75, you cancel out the variable of the n75 going bad and causing issues. The boost power band may not be as smoothe, but that would mainly depend on quality of boost controller (go with the hybrid one. the one I have is a hybrid). The n75 will also limit boost at certain stock settings. So, if you want to run higher boost you would want to remove the n75. You would really want an A/F gauge though to monitor your system, because you will not be placed into limp mode.

black99.5a4
10-11-2009, 09:17 AM
I run a turbonetics MBC on my chipped KO3 car.. not choppy, smooth and walks away from a buddys car.. same chip and mods, only difference is the MBC and i'm actually 200 lbs heavier then him. it didnt add any power im' sure, it just gets you into boost a whole lot quicker then the n75.

socal_A4
10-11-2009, 10:44 AM
Sweet great info guys!! thanks again

Seerlah
10-11-2009, 10:48 AM
Just wanted to add what would be needed to have the GT2871R eliminator run at is full potential (minus race or meth file).

-GT2817R eliminator kit
-upgraded fuel pump (you can just get the Walbro for your application)
-034 TIP to accomodate larger MAF
-custom intake
-Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge (just a Better route)
-Upgraded clutch is a must (I would go with a clutchmasters)
-front mounted intercooler (you can paint it black, properly, to avoid authority figures)
-mbc
-gauges to monitor your system
-tune, MAF and injectors
-full exhaust system
*I would highly recomend a high flow exhaust manifold

Then other things I would reccomend is upgraded snub, motor, and transmission mounts. Might as well upgrade the rear diff carrier mount bushings, and place on the Stern Power Ring. That will basically comlpete your vehicle and not give too much hastle when it comes to CA laws. I don't know how emissions tests are conducted, but maybe a 400cell count high flow cat in a full 3" exhaust system might pass? And it is not really a cheap upgrade. If you want everything brand new, it will run you at least $5,000 with clutch, exhaust, and turbo setup. Then mounts and high flow manifold (recommened) are a different story. Also, suspension.

Just tryin to give you a heads up that everything neded to make your car run smoothly will cost a pretty penny. What I personally am doing is adding all that stuff peice by peice then doing the turbo last (with engine build). It leaves so much things that pop out of nowhere out of the way. I am currently doing my drivetrain mods (suspension will be fully done in spring. just too lazy to install parts). And dealing with cosmetics of the car.

Edit: Check out the Stage 2 in this link (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3419208&postcount=1) to give you an idea about pricing. And look at this link (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2675648&postcount=1) on mounts. The Stern Power Ring and Stern Rear Diff Carrier Mount Bushings will run you around $100 for both of them.

socal_A4
10-11-2009, 12:00 PM
Just wanted to add what would be needed to have the GT2871R eliminator run at is full potential (minus race or meth file).

-GT2817R eliminator kit
-upgraded fuel pump (you can just get the Walbro for your application)
-034 TIP to accomodate larger MAF
-custom intake
-Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge (just a Better route)
-Upgraded clutch is a must (I would go with a clutchmasters)
-front mounted intercooler (you can paint it black, properly, to avoid authority figures)
-mbc
-gauges to monitor your system
-tune, MAF and injectors
-full exhaust system
*I would highly recomend a high flow exhaust manifold

Then other things I would reccomend is upgraded snub, motor, and transmission mounts. Might as well upgrade the rear diff carrier mount bushings, and place on the Stern Power Ring. That will basically comlpete your vehicle and not give too much hastle when it comes to CA laws. I don't know how emissions tests are conducted, but maybe a 400cell count high flow cat in a full 3" exhaust system might pass? And it is not really a cheap upgrade. If you want everything brand new, it will run you at least $5,000 with clutch, exhaust, and turbo setup. Then mounts and high flow manifold (recommened) are a different story. Also, suspension.

Just tryin to give you a heads up that everything neded to make your car run smoothly will cost a pretty penny. What I personally am doing is adding all that stuff peice by peice then doing the turbo last (with engine build). It leaves so much things that pop out of nowhere out of the way. I am currently doing my drivetrain mods (suspension will be fully done in spring. just too lazy to install parts). And dealing with cosmetics of the car.

Edit: Check out the Stage 2 in this link (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3419208&postcount=1) to give you an idea about pricing. And look at this link (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2675648&postcount=1) on mounts. The Stern Power Ring and Stern Rear Diff Carrier Mount Bushings will run you around $100 for both of them.
Serrlah you are the MAN[up]!
Ohh man.. My budget is like 1500 tops for the turbo setup I already have a fmic on the way.. The car I am about to pick up next week just got a brand new stock clutch put in it..So i might sell the clutch and put it towards a stg4? Would I have to upgrade the fuel pump/and fpr? with the gtrs elim?? I searched and read that alot of people are running the apr stg 3 with great reliability and its a pretty good street car.. Im looking for like 300-350hp so like 260-280 whp is my goal.. I hope this thread contributes to others that might be in the same boat as me in the future..
Thanks again guys

Seerlah
10-11-2009, 12:23 PM
I listed what would be needed to have your setup run optimal. There is the adjustable fpr which would be an all around better alternative to a set bar fpr. And the Walbro is the fuel pump and runs around $100. But they can be sought out for like $85. You can pick up parts peice by peice, till you have a complete setup. $1500 will only get you the eliminator kit (comes with fittings, lines, and gaskets). But I listed everything you would need to complete your setup, with things that will make your car complete for the eliminator setup (which included mounts, suspension, and clutch).


People seem to like the Clutchmaster as the SB has issues after launches. Clutchmaster has their clutch to match the stock feel and height (it should feel just like the stock clutch). If you get the FX400, you won't need to upgrade later on if you would want to change your setup.

But yeah, since you have the fmic and $1500 (I assume that is how it is) you can decide on things you want to do. There are different routes. What I would do personally, is find a tuner that does eliminator upgrades (unitronics or ctapp) and have your ecu flashed for the stock turbo. Then, when it comes time you can upgrade with them later for the aliminator file. It would cost the same and I am doing the same thing with my setup. I paid $500 for my stock turbo flash and expect to pay $200 later on when I would need a BT file. A BT file is $700 (from my tuner), so they don't really try and jip you. You are going to pay the same, so might as well enjoy the flashed ECU for the stock turbo while waiting. I forgot to add you will need to upgrade your diverter valve. I personally use the Forge 007p. Then after that, it is up to you. Once again, the route I would take is to get the cheaper stuff first and out of the way, as it can make you shed a tear from how quick the amount they cost adds up to.

This would be perfect. $100 off. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315175)

I would do this as your fmic is coming in. Purchase these smaller items and enjoy it as you can use them all till you complete your setup:

-Upgraded DV $125
-The Unitronics tune listed in the link I posted (you can upgrade to the eliminator tune later on for the difference of cost you already paid) $400

Now, you can enjoy the stage 1 while saving for your complete eliminator setup.

Then choose an exhaust setup. I would go 3" or 2.75" all the way back. Custom would be your best alternative here. And should run you around $500 installed tops. If I lived in CA, I would try these guys (http://www.labreemotorsports.com/index.html) out. I have thier High Flow Cat Converter and there is nothing but great reviews on them. If they are too pricey, then go elsewhere. But quality control is a big issue.

-Exhaust $500

Then sit on your money and make it larger for the tubo kit while considering other mods. But I listed everything you would need.

STS9king
10-11-2009, 12:40 PM
EBC - controllable from inside the cabin. you can set boost on the fly, and very accurately (digtal).

MBC - you have to pop the hood to adjust boost. less precise. though it costs about 10x less then an EBC.

http://www.boostcontroller.com/display_page.php?i=22
there are essentially 3 types of MBCs, ball-and-spring, bleed valve, and hybrid which is a combination.

ball and spring valves prevent wastegate creep but feel choppy, which is bad on a small torque-y turbo like a K03.

bleed type valves are smoother but allow some pressure past to the wastegate making it creep open prematurely.

hybrid valves use a bleed valve in front of a ball and spring valve and prevent WG creep while being less choppy.

the more quality (expensive does not necessarily = quality remember) valves are sturdier, easier to dial in, more accurate, etc.

unless you have a real reason to use an MBC, dont. just putting one on a stock A4 just to have it is pointless and most of the time a big headache to me for having to read your "i installed an MBC and my car runs like crap now" threads. unless you have the need for one and/or the knowledge properly set it up, keep your N75.


There plenty of MBC's that you can control from inside your car.

speedydragon
10-11-2009, 01:40 PM
JHM MBC..adjustable from inside the cabin..

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317648

Seerlah
10-11-2009, 01:43 PM
I need to wait for my car engine (bay) to cool down along with the MBC if I want to change the settings. LOL. That sucker gets hot.

biketsai
10-11-2009, 01:53 PM
I need to wait for my car engine (bay) to cool down along with the MBC if I want to change the settings. LOL. That sucker gets hot.

Lol, thats why you gotta do it REAL QUICK! Mine never really got THAT hot, but it did get a tad warm. Socal-I sent you back a PM