PDA

View Full Version : AEM EMS fired up tonight, but need HELP with a few things



JK35
09-05-2009, 07:36 PM
I have the AEM EMS and CDI ignition installed and working, I connected, configured a base tune, and it started right up.
I am waiting on a standalone wideband, as the two I HAVE are integrated to the standalone, and I don't know if they work right, and am afraid to run it long enough to find out...

Guys, I really need some help figuring out a few final things. (this os a 97 B5 QTM stroker motor BT/nitrous... too much list

Basically, I now had the dash out, instrument cluster stripped down to a empty circuit board
and I STILL can't understand the tach and speedo!
( so I tagged everything I could trace, and then everything I couldn't trace, put it back together, verified I hadn't screwed anything up and started searching. nothing... zip... nada

I have nearly everything working WITHOUT the factory ECU and much unnecessary (CONFIRMED beyond a shadow of a doubt) factory wiring.
I know the brown/red stripe comes off the VSS through the plenum chamber and this runs all the way to the cluster's blue connector#4. from there (now this is inside the cluster) I track it to a circled #20 on the circuit board, and despite everything I have tried, I don't know if I can USE this or not...

AEM EMS to VSS works.

The actual VSS in the trans WORKS, But this Brown/red wire had 8.25v when connected to the VSS, Now it has 10v/8v
even With the key OFF it has voltage
and here I am looking for a speedometer INPUT to supply with my AEM's speedometer OUTPUT (a 5v pulsed output, adjustable from within the software)

The VSS no longer has the 8.25v/0v 8.25v/0v 8.25v/0v 8.25v/0v signal when turning a wheel(axle) -4 switches for each revolution of a tire...

It is now as if it is a switched ground, as I get - millivolts/0v -millivolt/0v -4x/revolution signal from it, and simply configured my EMS for "high sensitivity Mag sensor"
I haven't driven the car to know how far off I am on the setup, but with the ignition on, AEM online, and tuning software open, All indications suggest I have a working VSS. Hell I got the cam and crank sensors, knock sensors, and a BUNCH of other sensors to work by researching, studying, and trying really damned hard to make it work right the first time -hey it fired up and ran on it's own and again this is with NO factory ECU
I'll be listing mine for sale very soon...[;)]

If anyone can help me with the wiring to the speedo
-and the tachometer -which is similar issue of "wich wire do I use", I'd be so thankfu!

l I just don't know what wires to clamp off and which to supply signal -and WHAT KIND of a signal for that matter,




I have integrated and tied in to the factory fan relay, and have the "crash" relay reserved for a primary electric fan.
Now, I'm betting alot of you are saying wtf is a "crash" relay? This is the relay that goes to the crumple zone contact device on the drivers side underside of the very front frame horn where the crash bar (bumper rebar's) 5mph shock absorber bolts TO the frame horn... -that thing, whatever it is, for all I can figure, must be designed to short out and deactivate circuitry in the event of certain collisions.
Perhaps it is an Airbag/SRS activation sensor? and that is the relay I'm referring to which is (as you look at it -installed) to the right of the electric fan relay.
I Built a new (FULL mil spec for all harnesses I have built) Relay circuit off the AEM for the fuel pumps, but I'm using switching from the factory relays for an "if and then" circuit so I have reversing triggers to my new relay circuits appropriate to the factory relays AND of course appropriate to what the AEM and both fuel pumps require. -spare 3rd relay is done in case I need a 2nd Bosch 044 after the surge tank, which is far better/safer than a standard relay hookup, imho -so that is all good

I don't know if a Bentley manual would help or not!
I don't have one, and haven't had since I started this build last year
I found a .pdf but it is a "sample" from Bentley themselves, but it's for 2002+

Oh, one last issue is the A/C.
Now, I have the factory control panel working, fan works(Heating/cooling blower fan) illumination is all good... I simply need to know what wire is the A/C request that I need to connect to the AEM. I a 4 wire sensor on the A/C condenser, and then there's one wire to the compressor.
I am just not sure how I should configure this to work...
I basically need something to trigger the compressor when to kick on

-with no ecu, it all still works fine, except I don't have anything tied in to actually turn the compressor on so I am not just blowing air.
Switching between heat/cool you can hear something switching within the HVAC system, fan level, switching between different functions (defrost vents, floor, dash that all works.
whatever the wires off that 4 wire sender on the passenger side of the compressor (which is the same as the connector on the drivers side that disconnects the front end to place it in "service mode" there's also the green one wire connector there which leads across the front also and then goes to the compressor...


Sorry this is so ridiculously long winded. but if anyone can help with ANY
-Speedometer
-Tachometer
-A/C request
-how to configure for the Vehicle Speed Sensor

, I'd definitely owe you one!

I can only hope that some of this brings some solutions and some help to someone else in the future when they're in google hell trying to find info as I have been for the past 2 hours

I wish everyone a safe & happy holiday!

-Kyle

mike-2ptzero
09-06-2009, 07:38 AM
The tach wire is going to be green or green with a colord tracer and is in the very far left cluster plug.

Siena
09-06-2009, 08:03 AM
Tacho wire is green with blue tracer.

Siena
09-06-2009, 08:12 AM
Kyle, are you running a secondary harness alongside the factory one, or have you torn the factory engine harness out completely?

I only ask, to get a better understanding of where you're at. The best route is usually to leave the OEM harness in place, just eliminating the injectors, coil packs, evap connectors, leaving the VSS, reverse lamp, oil temp / pressure, coolant level connectors to keep the cluster happy.

The only extra connectors you'd usually add to the cluster should be your tacho output (green / blue in plenum box) and dash coolant sender output (brown / black wire in plenum box).

JK35
09-07-2009, 04:17 AM
THANKS so far guys!

That's a big help!

I have the factory engine harness AND ECU out of the car, and I have eliminated alot of wiring, and added alot more
I need the VSS for my standalone, and I can only find a bronw/red wire that is associated with the speedo.
I connected the VSS to the AEM and I have a working VSS, -just need to configure it correctly
That wire I clipped off of it, -the BROWN with Red stripe ran up to the instrument plug T32A (the blue connector to the back of the instrument panel) position 28. It still has 8v at it's bitter end.

I have a 5v pulsed speedo OUTPUT off the standalone, is it going to be possible to use this wire, or do I need to conect that to something else?


I FINALLY found wiring diagrams for a 1998 B5 Passat 1.8T off a Russian VW site. it is in English, and was created by VW, it isn't as helpful as I thought...

namely the instrument cluster is a series of glyphs and then it gets extermely detailed at the connector and afterwards, -nothing about what actually goes to where INSIDE the instrument cluster...

I'm off to get the Tach working now!

thanks again

A/C request I think I might have figured out...
The diagrams to the A/C wiring show the black/yel stripe and black/grey stripe off # 8 and #10 of the factory ECU are for A/C... could those be the right wires to trigger an interrupt to the compressor?

Siena
09-07-2009, 05:01 AM
Generally, the speedo feed in the cluster is blue/white, but not 100% sure, will have a look. And see if I can scan any diagrams I have.

My wiring diagrams are for a '99.5> though, will it be of any use to you?

Siena
09-07-2009, 05:04 AM
As for the A/C interrupt, not sure if those signals will be supplied by AEM.

You may have to figure out an adjustable inertia switch, that will sense when you're pulling high G's, a full throttle switch seperate from your engine one, or a combination of both.

JK35
09-07-2009, 05:05 AM
The GREEN with blue tracer... I have two wires coming off the yellow connector that are green with "stripe" and I cant tell which is blue or which is black, they look like the same color to me, perhaps I need some sleep. -no I DEFINITELY need some sleep![wrench]

The yellow connector, if you lift the pink "key" and pick the lock and slide the connector body out of the housing... there are numbers on the actual connector. it is labeled 1 and 13 on one side, 14 and 26 on the other, the Green with XXXX stripe wires are in the actual connector pin locations #3 and #20. one goes to a crimp cap with alot of other green wires close to the fuesbox, the other went to the ecu.

Is the ECU wire the one I need to connect to my Tach output?
it is reading no voltage with the key off and 1.5v with the key ON.

The other (#20) that junctions down by the fuse block reads 4v with the ignition key off, and it is reading 9v with ignition key on

JK35
09-07-2009, 05:17 AM
http://volkswagen.msk.ru/electro/wd_p_98.pdf

http://volkswagen.msk.ru/electro/b5/b5_wd02_aeb.pdf


are these right or do I need something else???

mike-2ptzero
09-07-2009, 07:20 AM
The GREEN with blue tracer... I have two wires coming off the yellow connector that are green with "stripe" and I cant tell which is blue or which is black, they look like the same color to me, perhaps I need some sleep. -no I DEFINITELY need some sleep![wrench]

The yellow connector, if you lift the pink "key" and pick the lock and slide the connector body out of the housing... there are numbers on the actual connector. it is labeled 1 and 13 on one side, 14 and 26 on the other, the Green with XXXX stripe wires are in the actual connector pin locations #3 and #20. one goes to a crimp cap with alot of other green wires close to the fuesbox, the other went to the ecu.

Is the ECU wire the one I need to connect to my Tach output?
it is reading no voltage with the key off and 1.5v with the key ON.

The other (#20) that junctions down by the fuse block reads 4v with the ignition key off, and it is reading 9v with ignition key on


Most likely the one that goes to the ecu. I would check the number but I wont have time till Friday.

Enclave
09-07-2009, 07:27 AM
A/C request I think I might have figured out...
The diagrams to the A/C wiring show the black/yel stripe and black/grey stripe off # 8 and #10 of the factory ECU are for A/C... could those be the right wires to trigger an interrupt to the compressor?

You should look at the wiring diagrams of the A/C control head. There should be a wire that triggers the compressor. Just cut the wire and run the end that comes form the control head to one of AEM's inputs as the A/C switch and the end that goes to the compressor relay to a A/C relay drive. I have this setup like that on my standalone.

The 2 wires that come from the ECU are used to bump up idle and I control the compressor but you dont know what kind of signal it is sending to the A/C control head to turn it on and off. I guess you can experiment with it but if you use my method its a simple 12v trigger wire to the compressor relay. You can also figure out when the A/C comes on and bump up the idle.

JK35
09-07-2009, 09:17 PM
Most likely the one that goes to the ecu. I would check the number but I wont have time till Friday.

Mike, thanks for your offer, I truly appreciate it. It is the green with blue wire that went to the ECU, it was on pin # 6 of the Motronic, and now I just sent that to the AEM, configured settings, and I have a working Tach![cool]

I also have a working Speedo from the brown/red wire I have been asking about for awhile now, it IS the one, and it takes my 5v pulsed signal just fine, but will need tweaking to be accurate

I have the schematics now, and not just Bentley, but straight VW/Audi technical manuals too. the instrument cluster I have totally dissected and now reassembled, so I diagramed the PCB the best I could and reassembled (carefully, and I have an ESD station, $300 in/oz torque screwdriver and the right picks for this kind of stuff. NOT easy to assemble, and very easy to destroy, and even harder to reassemble successfully. I have pics if anyone ever really NEEDS them.

I really appreciate the help guys, and I can say I have everything sorted, installed and functioning, except I haven't tackled the A/C request. I have A/C and fully functional climate control (comfort control system)

but will still need to disseminate the diagrams, and figure out which wires are going to be connected to the EMS so I have proper control of the Compressor Clutch.
I followed the manual I have on A/C for checking the clutch out, and mines good, so that's good news.
The one wire to the clutch could be used via a relay, but I think I found a relay that does this already, If so, I'll just need to trigger that relay with the standalone.

any thoughts?

Enclave
09-08-2009, 02:22 PM
Check the diagrams of your a/c control head, there should be a wire that triggers that relay