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View Full Version : Finished with the rear suspensions and just want to make sure that I did it right



samleong
06-24-2009, 10:45 AM
I just swap the rear shocks and springs. Still have the fronts to go….

Here is some question I want to make sure:

1. Is that ok that I didn’t use the torque wrench? cause the one that I rented from Autozone was broken. I just tighten the bolts and nuts as hard as it was to get off. Will that (too tight or too loose..) affect the movement of the upper control arm(see pic)? Will that damage the bushings?

2. The instruction said that I should tighten everything while the car is on the ground. I didn’t do that, instead, I measured the distance between the wheel bolt and fender is 11” when the wheels are on, then I took off the wheels and jack up the suspension until the distance between the "wheel bolt hole" to fender is 11" to stimulate the car is on the ground. Is that ok?

3. After everything is done, I find out that there is only one-finger space between the upper control arm(see pic) and the inner side of the tires, is that normal.(I find out the fronts with stock suspensions is 1-1/2 finger space). I presume for example when the car hits a speed hump, the upper control arm will move up along with the wheel, so that it wont hit the tires…

4. There is some plastic around rear H&R race springs that I didnt remove

http://www.uploadpicz.com/images/77Image208.jpg (http://www.uploadpicz.com/view-77Image208.jpg)

Is that ok?

5. After the car is on the ground, the UPPER part of the springs is very tight, like this

http://www.uploadpicz.com/images/31Untitled.jpg (http://www.uploadpicz.com/view-31Untitled.jpg) Normal?



Thanks for answering!
picture:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/wheel28-rear3.jpg

explosionsteve
06-24-2009, 10:50 AM
I would recommend jacking up the suspension to simulate the ground, then tighten, cuz those bolts are a bitch to get at if the wheels are on. I don't know about the measuring method...

speedydragon
06-24-2009, 11:11 AM
1. it's never good to over torque anything. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it until it is snug, then turn another 1/2 turn and it should be good.

2. that's fine

3. that's normal, you won't rub. The control arms move with the suspension.

GeeJayzS4tyme!
06-24-2009, 11:34 AM
Not bad. 'cept for the fact that overtorquing the bolts isn't a good idea. They'll deform the bushings if the washers are pushing too much on them. 1 thing is, more often than not they'll start squeaking. 2 is that squeaking is due to extra rubbing on the metal components of the CA's and they'll wear quicker.

I know the temptation is to torque everything as much as possible, ESP your suspension because you are paranoid it will all fall apart if you hit a bump, etc. But all the bolts have self-locking nuts. Self-locking should be reassuring! [;)]

I'll help you do the fronts if you need me to! [up]

samleong
06-24-2009, 01:54 PM
Not bad. 'cept for the fact that overtorquing the bolts isn't a good idea. They'll deform the bushings if the washers are pushing too much on them. 1 thing is, more often than not they'll start squeaking. 2 is that squeaking is due to extra rubbing on the metal components of the CA's and they'll wear quicker.

I know the temptation is to torque everything as much as possible, ESP your suspension because you are paranoid it will all fall apart if you hit a bump, etc. But all the bolts have self-locking nuts. Self-locking should be reassuring! [;)]

I'll help you do the fronts if you need me to! [up]

I just think out a way to check if the bolts and nuts put too much stress on the bushings. I just jack up the car and remove the wheel, then jack the suspensions up and down to see if there is any squeaking. Is that method gonna work?

samleong
06-25-2009, 05:39 PM
still waiting answers for #4 and #5....

onemoremile
06-25-2009, 10:09 PM
I just swap the rear shocks and springs. Still have the fronts to go….

Here is some question I want to make sure:

1. Is that ok that I didn’t use the torque wrench? cause the one that I rented from Autozone was broken. I just tighten the bolts and nuts as hard as it was to get off. Will that (too tight or too loose..) affect the movement of the upper control arm(see pic)? Will that damage the bushings?

2. The instruction said that I should tighten everything while the car is on the ground. I didn’t do that, instead, I measured the distance between the wheel bolt and fender is 11” when the wheels are on, then I took off the wheels and jack up the suspension until the distance between the "wheel bolt hole" to fender is 11" to stimulate the car is on the ground. Is that ok?

3. After everything is done, I find out that there is only one-finger space between the upper control arm(see pic) and the inner side of the tires, is that normal.(I find out the fronts with stock suspensions is 1-1/2 finger space). I presume for example when the car hits a speed hump, the upper control arm will move up along with the wheel, so that it wont hit the tires…

4. There is some plastic around rear H&R race springs that I didnt remove is that ok?

5. After the car is on the ground, the UPPER part of the springs is very tight, like this

Normal?



1. You should be fine. As long as they aren't loose and you didn't go crazy overtightening them they won't come loose.

2. That is the right way to do it. If the car is lower now then it was before then your 11" should be more like 10 or 10.5 since ride height has changed. The only bolts on the rear that need to be tightened at ride height or under load are the lower shock bolt and the bolt that connects the upper A arm to the spindle. The four connecting the assembly to the body could care less what else is going on in the world. All you have to do is jack it up until the suspension stops compressing and the body moves. That is full load.

3. The wheel and tire are solidly connected to the spindle. That distance will not change without changing wheels or tires. It has to be the same as when you took it apart.

4. That tubing around the spring is to protect the spring's finish and should be left intact. Without it the coils rub on each other and the spring eventually rusts. Not all springs have it but it is a nice feature.

5. Those coils are touching because those are progressive springs. That is not a problem.

samleong
06-25-2009, 10:30 PM
1. You should be fine. As long as they aren't loose and you didn't go crazy overtightening them they won't come loose.

2. That is the right way to do it. If the car is lower now then it was before then your 11" should be more like 10 or 10.5 since ride height has changed. The only bolts on the rear that need to be tightened at ride height or under load are the lower shock bolt and the bolt that connects the upper A arm to the spindle. The four connecting the assembly to the body could care less what else is going on in the world. All you have to do is jack it up until the suspension stops compressing and the body moves. That is full load.

3. The wheel and tire are solidly connected to the spindle. That distance will not change without changing wheels or tires. It has to be the same as when you took it apart.

4. That tubing around the spring is to protect the spring's finish and should be left intact. Without it the coils rub on each other and the spring eventually rusts. Not all springs have it but it is a nice feature.

5. Those coils are touching because those are progressive springs. That is not a problem.

Thanks for answering![wrench]

onemoremile
06-26-2009, 12:08 AM
no problem.