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JK35
06-23-2009, 01:32 PM
Hey all, I'm finally finishing up my build, but am stumped on a couple seemingly simple things which are holding me back from turning the key for the first time.
It's been so long since I disassembled that I can't remember a few things, and I'm hoping to find some help here.
The car is a 1997 B5 A4 QTM, and this has been a FULL build (stroker, rods, pistons, head, BT, nitrous, -the works!
I'm hoping to reach a successful first startup today or tomorrow, and will be starting on the factory ECU for initial break in, but grafting in the AEM EMS as soon as I'm running and have the rings seated... -that is, if I can get some help sorting out these last few remaining mysteries!

1. the starter cable. From the stud on the starter, I have a positive cable. If my memory serves at all correct, this routed through a conduit and homeruns to the positive terminal on the battery, but this confuses me as I can't understand why a starter would go directly to a positive terminal (how would it be switched?)
where is this supposed to go?

2. the alternator cable/wire. I have a 6 gauge cable/lug on it's stud on the alternator, and then the tiny wire on it's tiny stud. where does this cable and this wire attach to on the other end? there's a small spade and a 90 degree lug on the big one, but I can't remember where they go???

3. the coolant reservoir tank has several connections. I have all of them sorted out except the very bottom small hole which is directly below the filler cap (on the bottom) It looks like it would receive a "spike" type nipple? but I'm not seeing anything that rings a bell. Can anyone tell me what goes into that hole and then where it goes to?

last, I have a tube that almost reaches the nipple beside the throttle body. This tube snakes back under the drivers side fender and goes to a plastic "ball" and to a network of tubing/fittings. what is this supposed to connect to at it's end which is closest to the throttle body?

Thanks so much for ANY help you're able to provide!

-Kyle

pipe7284
06-23-2009, 01:45 PM
pictures?

Jake39454
06-23-2009, 01:50 PM
Hey all, I'm finally finishing up my build, but am stumped on a couple seemingly simple things which are holding me back from turning the key for the first time.
It's been so long since I disassembled that I can't remember a few things, and I'm hoping to find some help here.
The car is a 1997 B5 A4 QTM, and this has been a FULL build (stroker, rods, pistons, head, BT, nitrous, -the works!
I'm hoping to reach a successful first startup today or tomorrow, and will be starting on the factory ECU for initial break in, but grafting in the AEM EMS as soon as I'm running and have the rings seated... -that is, if I can get some help sorting out these last few remaining mysteries!

1. the starter cable. From the stud on the starter, I have a positive cable. If my memory serves at all correct, this routed through a conduit and homeruns to the positive terminal on the battery, but this confuses me as I can't understand why a starter would go directly to a positive terminal (how would it be switched?)
where is this supposed to go?
Starter always has battery power, the starter solenoid determines when it uses that power. The small little wire that clips onto the front of the starter controls when the starter engages.
2. the alternator cable/wire. I have a 6 gauge cable/lug on it's stud on the alternator, and then the tiny wire on it's tiny stud. where does this cable and this wire attach to on the other end? there's a small spade and a 90 degree lug on the big one, but I can't remember where they go???
Those both go on the starter, the large one goes on the larger connection along with the cable going to the battery. The smaller one clips onto the starter solenoid on the starter
3. the coolant reservoir tank has several connections. I have all of them sorted out except the very bottom small hole which is directly below the filler cap (on the bottom) It looks like it would receive a "spike" type nipple? but I'm not seeing anything that rings a bell. Can anyone tell me what goes into that hole and then where it goes to?
There are just two connections iirc... One going out the bottom front to the radiator hose and a small one on top that goes to the coolant hardline that runs over the intake manifold. You might be seeing the coolant pressure release port on the bottom

last, I have a tube that almost reaches the nipple beside the throttle body. This tube snakes back under the drivers side fender and goes to a plastic "ball" and to a network of tubing/fittings. what is this supposed to connect to at it's end which is closest to the throttle body?

The manifold....
Thanks so much for ANY help you're able to provide!

-Kyle


Hope that clears things up. My memory is a bit rusty since I have been pulling B6/B7 motors recently but I'm sure the above is correct.

JK35
06-23-2009, 02:08 PM
AWESOME! Thanks so much!

That clears up EVERYTHING, except the coolant pressure release port... I think that's probably what I'm missing, as the other connections are exactly what I have (and are assembled)
what does the pressure release port connect to? I mean, is it a tube that goes in there, is it a device? does it connect to something else?


A lightbulb went off as soon as you explained the starter/alternator wiring.
(which is exactly why I couldn't find anything that the connections fit as I was looking in the wrong area!



Now the tube that takes manifold pressure... what all does that go to? Is that where we're tapped for boost pressure? there's the one on the rear of the manifold that goes to the brake booster, and then there's this tube/nipple by the TB... I'm probably going to need to mill something (or buy something) to use for a vac/pressure manifold, as I have a LOT of references that need manifold pressure.

As of now, I have used a shit-ton of silicone tubing for waqstegate/BOV, but I intend to swap everything I can to -an as I can afford it (the Tial WG and AEM MAP sensor being high on my priorities)

Thanks again for all your help, and if you or anyone can elaborate on the pressure release port, that would clear up the final detail (at least for now so I can turn the key and hold my breath[;)]

Jake39454
06-23-2009, 02:12 PM
AWESOME! Thanks so much!

That clears up EVERYTHING, except the coolant pressure release port... I think that's probably what I'm missing, as the other connections are exactly what I have (and are assembled)
what does the pressure release port connect to? I mean, is it a tube that goes in there, is it a device? does it connect to something else? Goes to atmosphere


A lightbulb went off as soon as you explained the starter/alternator wiring.
(which is exactly why I couldn't find anything that the connections fit as I was looking in the wrong area!



Now the tube that takes manifold pressure... what all does that go to? Is that where we're tapped for boost pressure? Leak detection pump there's the one on the rear of the manifold that goes to the brake booster, and then there's this tube/nipple by the TB... I'm probably going to need to mill something (or buy something) to use for a vac/pressure manifold, as I have a LOT of references that need manifold pressure.

As of now, I have used a shit-ton of silicone tubing for waqstegate/BOV, but I intend to swap everything I can to -an as I can afford it (the Tial WG and AEM MAP sensor being high on my priorities)

Thanks again for all your help, and if you or anyone can elaborate on the pressure release port, that would clear up the final detail (at least for now so I can turn the key and hold my breath[;)]

Get the thing running!

JK35
06-24-2009, 05:13 PM
OK, I am ready to turn the key, except for the fact I have no power steering fluid, and don't like the idea of starting up the motor with no fluid!

I am confused as to what I can and can't use...
and I am not finding any "Pentosin" or "G 002000" at any of my local parts stores.
I have a brand new quart of Valvoline power steering fluid, but this clearly is not "mineral hydraulic G002000" as the label calls for on the reservoir. what can I use, and where can I find it? I really don't want to wreck my power steering system, but I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to fire this money pit up tonight! Any help or suggestions IMMENSELY appreciated

OH, ONe more thing, I have the original MAF in it's little plastic tube removed from the gigantic airbox and it is plugged in and jury rigged to the inlet of my new GT3076R. The ignition module is also removed and is zip tied to the core support (plugged into both connectors) Now, on that harness, there are two additional 2 wire connectors. one went to some sort of solenoid or control valve on the spaghetti apparatus off the original K03 (this device is close to the DV) I do not have this hooked up, nor can I figure out where the other 2 wire connector went to???
Obviously, I am just going for a successful fireup. If it will come to life and breathe, I will be one happy Gear Head! As for compatibility and control, I don't have much for tonight. I am running my Tial BOV and Tial 44mm wastegate off vac lines and a MBC set as low as it will go, -again I just want to fire it up and hear it run for a moment... are these two unconnected connectors going to cause any immediate grief? or should it fire up (presuming everything else is OK)

One way to find out, eh!

-but the power steering fluid issue is a major major obstacle, and I'll be quite greatful for any suggestions/recommendations

what is the difference between plain old power steering fluid and the recommended "g002000 mineral hydraulic oil" that Audi specifies?



One more thing I just remembered... I still have to torque the compressor and turbine housing!!! ATP Turbo had told me 17.5ft/lbs for the compressor and 29.5 ft/lbs for the turbine, but I have a Tial stainless turbine housing... Does anyone know anything about these housings and what the torque should be?

thanks! I'm going to hit the neighbor kids up for a video camera while I'm waiting on replies. if that works out, I'll post video of the "birth" (either way[wrench] )

damnthemansam
06-24-2009, 05:24 PM
one is mineral hydraulic fluid and one is power steering fluid, dont use anything but mineral hydraulic fluid, or your climactic start up will ruin your night.. if your just starting it up dont worry about it, run it empty. if your driving it, wait til tomorrow and go to a foreign parts store or the stealership

JK35
06-24-2009, 05:28 PM
CRAP! I've lost the fuel pressure regulator retainer![headbang]
I got the clip to hold in the block breather adapter, I got the retainer that holds in the coolant port to -6an adapter (nice stuff from 034, too bad it took nearly a month and when I got someone on the phone there, they say "oh, -yeah, those parts are sitting on my desk" -interesting, as they should have been received 2 weeks ago...) I ask for expedited shipping, they charge me an additional fee (nearly $20 for two tiny aluminum fittings and 4 plastic fuel injector seals total weight under 3 ounces...) they stick it in the smallest USPS flat rate box and send it out... What does USPS charge for those boxes anyway? I think it's about $5? Funny thing is, there's a good $10k left to spend on additional parts for my build, and I WOULD have bought a lot more from 034 had they not treated me like this. I hope the $15 pop they made on shipping was worth it...

sorry for the rant.

OK -the Fuel pressure regulator retainer clip. and again, I just need it to startup. I have a billet rail and -10AN braided stainless and a Fuelab Prodigy, Fuelab filters and Fuelab AFPR ready to go in as soon as the -AN fittings show up from Jeg's, but I need the stocker to work tonight, and I can't find the retainer for love nor money.
anyone know any tricks for securing this into it's port so I can get this thing running? (C-clamp hurt anything?)
I can't even remember what the thing looks like! I was thinking it looked like the block breather and coolant port plug/adapter retainer, but can't remember for sure (nor can I find anything that remotely resembles the part I need...

so close, yet so far away[=(]

JK35
06-24-2009, 05:30 PM
one is mineral hydraulic fluid and one is power steering fluid, dont use anything but mineral hydraulic fluid, or your climactic start up will ruin your night.. if your just starting it up dont worry about it, run it empty. if your driving it, wait til tomorrow and go to a foreign parts store or the stealership

How long can I let it idle with no fluid? my hopes are (of course that it RUNS!) but I'd like to bring it to temp and then shut down until I can button a few more things up...

damnthemansam
06-24-2009, 05:37 PM
^^ not too long esp if its been sitting for a while with no fluid in it, if the system is bone dry the pump will likely burn out the seals.. you can take your serp belt off and run it with a battery charger though if you have one

damnthemansam
06-24-2009, 05:38 PM
some pics would be nice to assist people in a assisting you

damnthemansam
06-24-2009, 05:39 PM
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l125/damnthemansam/Random/fpr_mbc_instructions_2_web1.jpg

damnthemansam
06-24-2009, 05:45 PM
looks like the clip on the left

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l125/damnthemansam/Random/6510231.jpg

Jake39454
06-24-2009, 10:12 PM
OK, I am ready to turn the key, except for the fact I have no power steering fluid, and don't like the idea of starting up the motor with no fluid!

I am confused as to what I can and can't use...
and I am not finding any "Pentosin" or "G 002000" at any of my local parts stores.
I have a brand new quart of Valvoline power steering fluid, but this clearly is not "mineral hydraulic G002000" as the label calls for on the reservoir. what can I use, and where can I find it? I really don't want to wreck my power steering system, but I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to fire this money pit up tonight! Any help or suggestions IMMENSELY appreciated Don't start it without the correct fluid, end of story...

OH, ONe more thing, I have the original MAF in it's little plastic tube removed from the gigantic airbox and it is plugged in and jury rigged to the inlet of my new GT3076R. The ignition module is also removed and is zip tied to the core support (plugged into both connectors) Now, on that harness, there are two additional 2 wire connectors. one went to some sort of solenoid or control valve on the spaghetti apparatus off the original K03 (this device is close to the DV) I do not have this hooked up, nor can I figure out where the other 2 wire connector went to??? N75 valve and Evap purge solenoid I'm guessing
Obviously, I am just going for a successful fireup. If it will come to life and breathe, I will be one happy Gear Head! As for compatibility and control, I don't have much for tonight. I am running my Tial BOV and Tial 44mm wastegate off vac lines and a MBC set as low as it will go, -again I just want to fire it up and hear it run for a moment... are these two unconnected connectors going to cause any immediate grief? or should it fire up (presuming everything else is OK)

One way to find out, eh!

-but the power steering fluid issue is a major major obstacle, and I'll be quite greatful for any suggestions/recommendations

what is the difference between plain old power steering fluid and the recommended "g002000 mineral hydraulic oil" that Audi specifies?



One more thing I just remembered... I still have to torque the compressor and turbine housing!!! ATP Turbo had told me 17.5ft/lbs for the compressor and 29.5 ft/lbs for the turbine, but I have a Tial stainless turbine housing... Does anyone know anything about these housings and what the torque should be? Just "tight" on the turbine housing, take into account the size of the bolt you are tightening and just make it "tight"... I've not once torqued a compressor or turbine housing and not once have I had a problem [cool]

thanks! I'm going to hit the neighbor kids up for a video camera while I'm waiting on replies. if that works out, I'll post video of the "birth" (either way[wrench] )

Get some ps fluid!

JK35
06-24-2009, 10:58 PM
Gotta pickup a new camera tomorrow... I can't get my iPhone to upload pics, and it won't even stay connected long enough to transmit pics via email... PICS TOMORROW

OK, Tonight ended not good but not bad either. The engine is turning over nicely, I have fuel, I have spark, I have air, but it just won't fire up! My timing checks out, I have connected everything as best as possible (temporary install stock MAF, ignition module, and I figured out what the two left over connectors went to. one is the valve that sends unspent vapor to the charcoal canister, and the other is a solenoid valve adjacent the OEM DV. both are plugged in just to avoid errors.
I dunno...
I mean no interference and no catastrophic failures are a good start! but with air, fuel & spark, -and my timing is on... I am not understanding what's amiss[confused]


Anyone reasonably close to SW Florida that wrenches on these for a living, Please drop me a note.

I didn't expect it to start on the first crank and have the factory ECU happy about everything that's been done, but with the key 3 ingredients + timing, I at least expected to gas myself out of the garage... -maybee tomorrow

I found the fuel pressure retainer, thanks for the pics and help. It's much better than the allen wrenches I was about to pound in there[;)]

It almost sounds like it's going to start, and at that, it sounds absolutely pissed (in a good way) the turbo whirls a soft tone just when cranking the engine over... DAMN I can't wait to hear this thing come to life!

biketsai
06-24-2009, 11:00 PM
This may sound dumb, but Ive done this before. Do you have all intercooler pipes connected?

ghost6303
06-25-2009, 07:02 AM
Gotta pickup a new camera tomorrow... I can't get my iPhone to upload pics, and it won't even stay connected long enough to transmit pics via email...

send it as a picture txt but instead of a phone number put in your email@address.com and it will be sent to your email.


it could very well just be the factory ECU that isnt happy. are you sure your fuel injectors are functioning? your ECU still thinks you have a 1.8l engine with a ko3 and 23x-cc injectors. your car may just be way too far from what it expects.

im actually having somewhat similar issues though on a stock engine. i could have sworn my fuel pump was on its way out but i just got a FP gauge installed and thats not the problem at all. i have spark and last i checked compression was perfect. i have no clue whats going on with the thing.

Militant-Grunt
06-25-2009, 08:57 AM
Try starting the car with the MAF unplugged.

Btw, be sure to have PS fluid in there, you dont want to ruin your pump, that and there will be air in the fluid initially, you need the run the car to get it out.

pipe7284
06-25-2009, 01:59 PM
with stock ECU the car should fire up, eventhough it has larger injectors, but its not a good idea, since there will be alot more fuel thrown into the cylinders than what the stock ecu calls for. If i had my ECU with me, i would be more that happy to go down and help you out. If i do get it before you fire up your car, i`ll shoot you a pm.

JK35
06-26-2009, 02:49 AM
Here's the mess I've created. Special ghetto style intake adapter is being removed as soon as the silicone elbow arrives, so bust my chops all you want[:p] ( is that not the most ghetto thing you've ever seen!) http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-171.jpg


here's the cam gear. mark on the valve cover lines up with mark on the gear
Now, I should stop right here, and explain that Pete at IE determined my timing was off, so I pulled the front off and reset the timing. I was one tooth off, as I had set the initial timing (or lack thereof) by using a silicone hose as a height indicator, rocking the #1 piston back and forth and (I thought) arriving at the dead center of the TDC dwell (not)
So, He was right, I was one tooth off, and I thought I corrected that today. (It still won't start[headbang] ) anyway, here's the cam gear/valve cover. It is not dead on the mark, but this is a lot better than it was yesterday. and trying to correct this tiny offset from the mark results in exactly what I had yesterday
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-174.jpg
with the cam gear as shown, here is the crank pulley. -hard to see, but if you look closely, you can see the timing arrow on the cover in alignment with the mark on the crank dampener.
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-173.jpg
and without moving anything, I pull the valve cover, and this is what the cams look like
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-154.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-153.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-175.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-176.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-177.jpg
The texting works, so my iPhone is being used for the pics here. not the greatest, but it works nonetheless.
I have a shit-ton more pics from this evening, but this is all I can do for now. gotta get some shut-eye... tomorrow is going to be a busy day[wrench]

I still have spark. -lightning bolt white hot BIGASS spark, and I have checked all four coils
Air? -definitely, as I said, you can actually HEAR this turbo whirl, and that is just from turning over with the starter. yeah, the MAF is the most low budget crappy looking mess I have ever seen on an Audi, but I'm only trying to get it to turn over right now. (and I bought a 4x3 silicone elbow tonight with 2 day shipping)
and, I most definitely have fuel. lots and lots of raw unburnt fuel. I can't even stand it in the garage with the door shut and the A/C on, as a few cranking attempts results in overwhelming fumes

I think I have the timing right. at least I have pics now, so perhaps you can tell me if I'm in fact in time, or whether I have screwed the pooch a second time...

As for vac line routing, I have hooked up everything I can think of, but I'll load those pics up for tomorrow...
I'll close by saying that while I think that I have the timing right, it surely is acting like the timing IS NOT right. yesterday (day before?) when the crank was one tooth ahead of the cam gear (from where it is now/in these pics) at least it sounded like it "wanted" to run. Tonight it did not...
This is quickly becoming very discouraging, but I suppose there's only one way to go from here[drive]
If anyone has any ideas, or needs to see a photo of ANYTHING, please let me know.
thanks,
-Kyle

JK35
06-26-2009, 03:19 AM
Is there any way to use a degree wheel on this motor? I have a Moroso degree wheel, but I couldn't figure out how to use it on this motor[confused]

I just had a disturbing thought... Today, as I said, I changed the timing, which was definitely wrong. I set the cam gear's mark spot-on the mark on the valve cover, put the front into service position (actually totally removed, A/C is discharged...) and as the crank pulley appeared to be one tooth advanced, I marked the timing belt, released the timing belt, retarded the crank by one tooth and reset the timing belt. My marks indicated I successfully move3d the crank back one tooth.

What's disturbing me is: would it have made a difference if I had set the crank pulley to spot on the mark on the timing cover, then moved the CAM GEAR forward a tooth?
and if so, I wonder if I have made it far enough off to bend anything[o_o]
(what's the worst I could have done so far?)

Jake39454
06-26-2009, 10:59 AM
Put the factory MAF and injectors back in...

JK35
06-26-2009, 11:35 AM
the factory MAF and injectors are, and have been in. I am evidently still not in correct timing... and I'm scaredshitless that I've bent something.
The crank was one tooth forward of where it is in these pics (which is wrong) the cam appears to be a half tooth off, which is wrong also.
I just hope I haven't bent valves... they were expensive enough the first time!

My plan is to set the crank to dead on the timing mark, pull the front off, mark and pull the timing belt, and move the CAM to dead on the mark...

Can anyone tell where I am at and what I have done based on the current pics? or do I need more detailed photos and descriptions? I would really like to know if I need to pull the head back off and check for bent valves...

Jake39454
06-26-2009, 11:56 AM
Have you done a compression test?

4bagels
06-26-2009, 02:07 PM
Another quick thing to check is to pull any codes with the key in the on position. If you find any, try clearing the codes, cycle the key and see if they come back. I usually do this after any major work before starting the engine just to see if anything major was left unplugged.

damnthemansam
06-26-2009, 03:14 PM
x2 on compression test.. and if the fuel is that evident maybe too much fuel?

JK35
06-26-2009, 06:42 PM
compression test is sketchy. It has never run in (new everything, fresh machine work) but yes, I ran compression on each cylinder via the starter/battery's power to check for consistency, which I do not have. it is all over the place. I just bought a leakdown test kit, dial indicator/stand, stethoscope and a carload of other crap for checking and testing and measuring. I went to http://tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html and printed a couple degree wheels, as my real degree wheel won't fit onto this motor without wrecking it, but the printed wheels, glued to a plastic for sale sign fit OK. here are the cam gear and crank pulley with #1 piston at true TDC as indicated by my dial indicator securely fixed to the motor, and with a lexan centering plate bolted down over the opening to eliminate any chance of error that I can
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-184.jpghttp://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-180.jpg
As I said, the #1 piston is at true top dead center, but as you can see both crank and cam appear slightly advanced.
am I in correct time? while it appears to me to be, it doesn't sound right, nor will it so much as fart for me. still have spark and loads of unburnt raw fuel... and, I have cleared the cylinders and re-tried with the same unsuccessful results.
could it be that I need to jump the crank forward one and pull the cam back one tooth? I am frustrated and somewhat confused... where should I go from here?
I think a leakdown test should be run on each cylinder

jrock
06-26-2009, 07:10 PM
Compression shouldnt be all over the board and you dont need to discharge the ac to get the timing done right.

JK35
06-26-2009, 07:54 PM
Compression shouldnt be all over the board and you dont need to discharge the ac to get the timing done right.

A/C has nothing to do with anything...
rings arent seated. this is a fresh build. it has never run yet.


OK I have the pulley off and a degree wheel set on the crank. with the #1 piston at true top dead center, where are the intake and exhaust cams supposed to be?
I attempted a leakdown test, and I'm blowing freely through the intake when #1 is at TDC. I continue to blow freely until I rotate the crank from 0 all the way to 146 degrees. as for the exhaust side, I'm going to pull the header, because even with a stethoscope, I can't hear when it starts and stops blowing exactly...
I'm getting the feeling something is badly wrong[o_o]

petera4
06-26-2009, 08:19 PM
when you are at tdc are you sure it is tdc compresson? cause you can be at tdc EXHAUST as well.

quattro16
06-26-2009, 09:25 PM
You will never get the lines to be perfect ( trust me of done hundreds). There is always a slight amount of play (1-3mm) of where the lines line up. By the last pics it looks as if its timed perfect. And if the notches on the cams line up with the arrows then its all good. I don't think the timing is the issue. Ive seen belts off by 5-6 teeth and no damage.

Jake39454
06-26-2009, 09:33 PM
What numbers did you get for compression? Every never run motor I have ever tested/built has had very consistent compression...

ghost6303
06-26-2009, 09:40 PM
well compression is going to be low/erratic on a newly built (and cold) engine with unseated rings right?

Jake39454
06-26-2009, 09:43 PM
Not from my experience...

JK35
06-26-2009, 09:58 PM
about 60 psi with a weak battery. about 150 psi with a fully charged brand new Optima.

I'm not understanding how an accurate compression test can be performed without the rings being seated in and running???

The leakdown test is completely baffling me. I bought an actual leakdown test kit this evening (Harbor Freight, so I don't expect much) but nonetheless, I follow the instructions, and something isn't making sense to me.
there are two gauges. the first is inlet pressure and this one has the regulator on it. the second is marked in percentage which is basically a reverse gauge face. as per the instructions, and other leakdown test instructions, I set the regulator on my COMPRESSOR to 100psi, releasing and adjusting until I actually have 100psi of line pressure. I connect to the leakdown device and adjust it's regulator until the second gauge reads 100%. OK, now what? at what point does it "leakdown" as long as it remains connected it reads 100% on the second gauge, and 100psi at my compressor and on the first gauge of the tester. what am I missing?

Also, and this is going to sound like there is no bus short enough for me... but I just want to be completely 100% certain that I didn't make a huge mistake here... Cylinder #1 is the FRONT cylinder, right. as in, front of the engine/front of the car or otherwise closest to the timing belt, right (#4 being in the rear closest to the transmission?)
This has been what I have to referred to countless times, and I know I had to have read that somewhere, but I cannot find where... more/less a meme that I haven't put a 2nd thought to.
If #1 isn't in the front, and I've been backwards all along, I would have to say I just found the problem (and will proceed to kick my own ass mercilessly)

when I am blowing air into the cylinder. the front cylinder... and that cylinder is at true TDC, I am either blowing air out the intake or I'm blowing out the exhaust.

I'm not ready to give up by any means yet, but I do want a backup plan... Who knows they can get this sorted out and running, and wouldn't mind a trip to SW Florida? And I'm dead serious... If it comes down to it, and I just can't get this up and running on my own, I'd like to have an idea of what it will take and who I can count on? If you have the expertise and are willing/interested, please PM me with your terms

Jake39454
06-26-2009, 10:04 PM
Ring end gaps are all the same, wall finishes are all the same, skirt to wall is all the same... Why wouldn't compression be the same?

And you need a battery in good condition to do the test...

Lelix
06-26-2009, 11:16 PM
about 60 psi with a weak battery. about 150 psi with a fully charged brand new Optima.

I'm not understanding how an accurate compression test can be performed without the rings being seated in and running???

The leakdown test is completely baffling me. I bought an actual leakdown test kit this evening (Harbor Freight, so I don't expect much) but nonetheless, I follow the instructions, and something isn't making sense to me.
there are two gauges. the first is inlet pressure and this one has the regulator on it. the second is marked in percentage which is basically a reverse gauge face. as per the instructions, and other leakdown test instructions, I set the regulator on my COMPRESSOR to 100psi, releasing and adjusting until I actually have 100psi of line pressure. I connect to the leakdown device and adjust it's regulator until the second gauge reads 100%. OK, now what? at what point does it "leakdown" as long as it remains connected it reads 100% on the second gauge, and 100psi at my compressor and on the first gauge of the tester. what am I missing?

Also, and this is going to sound like there is no bus short enough for me... but I just want to be completely 100% certain that I didn't make a huge mistake here... Cylinder #1 is the FRONT cylinder, right. as in, front of the engine/front of the car or otherwise closest to the timing belt, right (#4 being in the rear closest to the transmission?)
This has been what I have to referred to countless times, and I know I had to have read that somewhere, but I cannot find where... more/less a meme that I haven't put a 2nd thought to.
If #1 isn't in the front, and I've been backwards all along, I would have to say I just found the problem (and will proceed to kick my own ass mercilessly)

when I am blowing air into the cylinder. the front cylinder... and that cylinder is at true TDC, I am either blowing air out the intake or I'm blowing out the exhaust.

I'm not ready to give up by any means yet, but I do want a backup plan... Who knows they can get this sorted out and running, and wouldn't mind a trip to SW Florida? And I'm dead serious... If it comes down to it, and I just can't get this up and running on my own, I'd like to have an idea of what it will take and who I can count on? If you have the expertise and are willing/interested, please PM me with your terms

How is the leak down gauge explained in the instructions? Does the 100% indicate 0% or 100% l/d??

ghost6303
06-26-2009, 11:18 PM
well the specification from Audi for doing a compression test (on an AEB) is "engine oil a minimum of 88*F. normal cylinder pressure:10.0-13.0 bar, lower wear limit: 7 bar, max permissible differentiation between cylinders: 3 bar".

if your engine is like 60*F (like it is here right now outside) you will get different numbers then if it were up to operating temp. not doubting your experience, but thats just what i have seen. also what is even the point of seating rings if absolutely nothing changed after?

JK35
06-26-2009, 11:30 PM
ring end gaps, finish wall clearance are all good. machinist did a great job on those, the head machine work wasn't as great of a job... when I assembled though, all 4 cylinders held alcohol with no leaks.


as for the timing... you're saying I'm in correct time? right? and as for the cylinders, #1 is definitely in the front closest to the timing belt, right?

I am definitely having a hard time disagreeing with you on the compression though. I have been advised by a trusted source, not to worry about compression at this point, as the motor has never run and rings are not seated. however. all machine work checked out. I had concerns when I first brought the bottom end home and began checking, and the rings had to be re-gapped, but when the torque plate was installed and the machinist showed me with a bore gauge, that the cylinders were indeed even and correct, I collected the rings upon their being gapped to my specs (for the 2nd time) returned to my garage and began assembling.

does ANYONE have any pictures of a correctly assembled and correctly timed stroked 058 AEB?

Reusing my original AEB crank cog on the ABA crank couldn't have anything to do with this could it? (keyway in a different spot?)


As for compression/leakdown. (and considering that I'm calling #1 the front most cylinder. right?)
when that piston is at true top dead center, is there anyone that can tell me where the intake cam is and where the exhaust cam is? -rather, where they are SUPPOSED to be?

Lelix
06-26-2009, 11:46 PM
ring end gaps, finish wall clearance are all good. machinist did a great job on those, the head machine work wasn't as great of a job... when I assembled though, all 4 cylinders held alcohol with no leaks.


as for the timing... you're saying I'm in correct time? right? and as for the cylinders, #1 is definitely in the front closest to the timing belt, right?

I am definitely having a hard time disagreeing with you on the compression though. I have been advised by a trusted source, not to worry about compression at this point, as the motor has never run and rings are not seated. however. all machine work checked out. I had concerns when I first brought the bottom end home and began checking, and the rings had to be re-gapped, but when the torque plate was installed and the machinist showed me with a bore gauge, that the cylinders were indeed even and correct, I collected the rings upon their being gapped to my specs (for the 2nd time) returned to my garage and began assembling.

does ANYONE have any pictures of a correctly assembled and correctly timed stroked 058 AEB?

Reusing my original AEB crank cog on the ABA crank couldn't have anything to do with this could it? (keyway in a different spot?)


As for compression/leakdown. (and considering that I'm calling #1 the front most cylinder. right?)
when that piston is at true top dead center, is there anyone that can tell me where the intake cam is and where the exhaust cam is? -rather, where they are SUPPOSED to be?

You are right, #1 is the closest to you. Did you lock the engine down while doing the leak down? There is a possibility it could move from 100 psi. As for the camshaft, this is the best I could dig up, the 2 alignment marks in the back, not sure if it's any help to you.[confused]

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V126898162~C31668~R0~OB0~P1R0H~N/0/56775861/56775862/56775877/56775879/34853741/100411974/34853743/34872023/34853853/142985083/86433577

JK35
06-27-2009, 01:01 AM
YEAH! THAT"S A HUGE HELP!!!!!

ok, those lobes on cylinder #4... those are "up" and on those marks. well... mine are DOWN and I'm also on those marks, and that's when my timing mark is straightup at the top on the mark on the valve cover.

does that mean I am 180 degrees off???

The leakdown test hasn't been a leakdown test. like I said, I couldn't figure out what to do after I apply air pressure to the cylinder.

again, if anyone can explain how exactly a leakdown test is performed, I'd really appreciate it)

however, the leakdown attempt wasn't a complete waste of time. as I rotate the crank in 180 degree turns, I can clearly hear intake and exhaust opening and closing, and it is in perfect rhythm with intake-compression-combustion-exhaust (suck-squeeze-bang-blow) and my marks and relative shaft positions are where I thought they were supposed to be.

the whooshing sound of air, when int. or ex. opens and closes is distinctive, BUT there is never a silence of air in wither intake or exhaust.

In otherwords, each cylinder may have held fluid with all valves closed, but I don't believe they're holding back even a small amount of compressed air, as I can always hear a slight passing from both sides. -always while the compressed air is applied...

when I tried a compression test by using a compression gauge and cranking it over via the starter/fresh battery. I had 60psi on #1, 90psi on #2, 60 psi on 3 and 120psi on #4 this is what I mean by "varied wildly"

I'm worried that the machinist who cut my valves oversize and did the valvejob didn't have a clue about Audi's. I think this was probably the first German car he'd ever touched... and I could tell he had some real difficulties trying to do the work.
(the presale sales pitch was alot different in demeanor than his attitude when I arrived after being put off several times and demanded the head finished and delivered)
at the end of the day, it's still my responsibility, as I did the assembly. I just thought it was sealing, because once I assembled, it held alcohol without leaking a drop
(it obviously doesn't COMPLETELY hold back compressed air, even 30-50 psi )
So, what do I do here? Is it time to pull it back out and strip it down?

ghost6303
06-27-2009, 08:15 AM
Reusing my original AEB crank cog on the ABA crank couldn't have anything to do with this could it? (keyway in a different spot?)
what matters is the number of teeth on the belt not so much the position of the keyway. as long as you replaced (not reused) the bolt that holds it on to the crank your good

As for compression/leakdown. (and considering that I'm calling #1 the front most cylinder. right?)
when that piston is at true top dead center, is there anyone that can tell me where the intake cam is and where the exhaust cam is? -rather, where they are SUPPOSED to be?

what type of headwork have you done? are you still running stock cams? you said both the crank and cam timing marks line up just about perfectly, then the marks on the cam chain cogs at the rear of the cams should also line up with the arrow stamped into the rear-most cam caps and have 16 links of chain from one mark to the next.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/ghost6303/camtiming.jpg


EDIT: i just went out and looked at my spare head and both intake and exhaust cam lobes on cyl#1 should be no where near touching the lifters when those marks on the cam timing cogs line up.

JK35
06-27-2009, 10:33 AM
OK, in that picture, it shows the shaft timing marks at the arrows (arrows on the cam bearing caps) -with exhaust slightly forward, and 16 rollers in between.
This I have...
BUT what's got me confused, are the cam lobes on the #4 cylinder. In that illustration, the cam lobes on #4 are "up and pointing in. like 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock, right. and this is supposed to be when we're at TDC #1?

OK, let me put up a pic of where my cams are. again cyl. #1 (and #4 for that matter are at TDC, and the timing mark on the timing belt gear (exhaust cam) is on the mark on the valve cover

at the bottom of this pi, you see where my int. and exh. cam lobes are on cylinder #1. they are at about 1 o'clock and 11 o'clockhttp://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-153.jpg
again, this is when my timing belt gear's mark lines up with the valve cover mark (ex cam, valve cover)http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-172.jpg



See my number 4 lobes are not where the illustration showshttp://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-176.jpghttp://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-175.jpg


when my #4 lobes are at 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock, the mark on my timing belt gear is down, 180 degrees off the mark on the valve cover. -yes, the #1 and #4 pistons are back at TDC, but the #4 cam lobes are not matching what I am understanding the tech manual to be conveying

ghost6303
06-27-2009, 11:22 AM
well to me that looks like everything is lining up where it should be.

heres what a stock head looks like when those marks at the back of the cams are dead center like shown in that diagram- the #1 cyl cams are at 1 and 11 like yours are
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/ghost6303/0627091314a.jpg

and the #4 cyl are down like yours are. im guessing that that diagram isnt 100% accurate. there isnt really any way to put the cams in incorrectly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/ghost6303/0627091314.jpg


I'm worried that the machinist who cut my valves oversize and did the valvejob didn't have a clue about Audi's. I think this was probably the first German car he'd ever touched... and I could tell he had some real difficulties trying to do the work.
this is what i would suspect. its often worth the money to have your head shipped across the country to someone who knows what they are doing rather then to deal with this. what i would do is, with the valve cover off so you can see where the cam lobes are, put your leakdown tester on each cylinder, rotate the engine so that all cam lobes are off the lifters for that cylinder, and pump air in there. if you hear air escaping, put half a tablespoon of oil or WD40 in there to make sure its not past the rings. if you still hear leaking that means its from the valves and your machinist needs to redo it.

JK35
06-27-2009, 03:15 PM
tried what you said (with oil) I'm surprised how well the rings are sealing, considering they're not even worn in yet. I am definitely blowing out through the valves when they are closed. as in -not sealing AT ALL
I'm not certain if no leakdown is 100% or zero, but I have TOTAL leakdown, as in no cylinder will hold ANY pressure at all.
Now they'll all hold fluid. Like I said, I checked with alcohol on my bench. with each cylinder's valves totally closed, I filled the chamber with alcohol, and it held. I couldn't find a single drop. Obviously the compressed air is a whole different ballgame...
Now, as for this head, it had been worked on before this by the previous owner. there was an issue with the valve stem seals on all the exhaust guides, and I had to find some unusually sized valve stem seals because some oddball guides had been installed by someone. also, the jackass that f-d my head up for me for $300, cut me 1mm over and did a 3 angle on top of whatever was done beforehand, and I don't think I have enough material left to do anymore machine work[confused]
There is a figure chart in the tech manual that I believe is for calculating maximum material removal, but I don't understand how to do this. before I do anything else, I want to know if this head has any chance left, or if it is a boat anchor?

I'm going to pull the motor and remove the head.

Now the fact that these 20 brand new valves and springs will not seal up at all, definitely lies in the machine work? I don't want to go off half cocked...
but if in fact my head is ruined due to improper machine work, I think I'm going to just forego anymore discussion, get a second professional opinion and written report and file a small claims case in County Court.
I'm at the end of my wits, and this has been like pulling teeth since the first go-round with this machinist.

What would you do if this motor were your's and you were in the same position?

Enclave
06-27-2009, 03:19 PM
For those marks on the cams, dont be worried if they dont line up exactly like the illustration in bentley. One will be off by a little bit.

ghost6303
06-27-2009, 05:01 PM
i would take the head off, remove the cams, caps, lifters, everything except the valves springs and retainers. then all 20 valves should be completely closed. fill the intake and exhaust ports with alcohol/WD40 or whatever and carefully lift it up and look to see which ones are leaking and mark them.

JK35
06-27-2009, 05:12 PM
right on, I'm on it...

JK35
06-27-2009, 09:04 PM
good news and bad news. The good is that I didn't make any contact. the pistons and the valves look exactly the same as they did when I put it together[:D]

JK35
06-28-2009, 12:18 AM
with the cams removed, I put the head back on and torqued to 44lbs + 1/4 turn and tried to run leakdown
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-198.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-200.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-1853.jpg


The compressed air still blows out the intake and exhaust valve entirely. None of the valves will even hold back 2-3 psi!
and at 50psi and 100psi, it dumps the compressor faster than holding a blowgun wide open.
There is simply no seal on any valves


I was somewhat relieved to know that I didn't contact anywhere, as when this first began a couple days ago, one of my first thoughts was that I was off on timing which easily results in bent valves. -NO such problems! the pistons and valves are just as they were when I installed them
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-254.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-2223.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-1763.jpg

Would you all say that this is clearly a result of the machinists services (or lack thereof [:p] ) ????
The guy only opened one intake and one exhaust valve... Shouldn't each valve have been installed in it's respective hole? I think the guy didn't have a clue what he was doing, and just enlarged the openings big enough to take the oversize valves and called a day. from the looks of the valve seats, I shit-you-not, I could do the same thing on my $75 mini drill press with a unibit and a grinding cone. They just don't look like anything I have ever seen come out of a machine shop.

Is there anything I could have done wrong here though?
The assembly was pretty straight forward... -new valve stem seal, valve, locator, spring, retainer, -compress it down and work the keepers in with a pair of magnetized pics. (that was about as much fun as a root canal)
I can't think of anything I could have done wrong as far as the assembling of the valves in regards to them sealing or not, but if there is anything. -anything at all, please make mention of it.

I'll likely be visiting a buddy of mine tomorrow who happens to be an Attorney.
and I am more than likely going to just have him file a case over this first thing Monday morning, as the lost time and aggravation are far more than the $300 and the ruined cylinder head at this stage of the game...

LET THIS BE A LESSON TO EVERYONE! Please, -learn from this ...
Make sure you know beyond the shadow of a doubt who is machining on your expensive parts.
This guy that did my machine work had an impressive shop and gave an impressive list of references. He assured me he had worked on these before and could do this work without hesitation.
His "cup motor" and NHRA Pro Stock customer references unfortunately don't run 20v Audi's... nor do I now believe the guy has ever even seen the internal workings of one of our motors.
Bottom line... CHECK Ref's and make damn sure the machinist you're going to hire has successfully performed a sufficient number of services on these motors. These are not small block Chevy's... Doesn't matter how many 5.0 FOrds they've built 5000 horsepower with... we don't care about DSM's or Supra's or Subies... don't ever let your Audi be someone's learning curve when it comes to machine work. or you'll end up just like me[headbang]

ghost6303
06-28-2009, 01:17 AM
i can even see gaps around some of those valves even from a cellphone picture. atleast you figured out where the problem was. so you had him machine it (without the rest of the parts?) and you assembled it yourself? thats a little bit of your own fault- you should always give the machinist all the parts so that he can check his work after. i would always just give him a bag of valve parts and the head and say 'put these into that and make sure they dont leak when your done'. well worth the extra $300 in labor to have the guy assemble it and find any errors before you get it back, as you found out.

JK35
06-28-2009, 12:42 PM
absolutely not! I only opened the boxes as they arrived from Integrated Engineering, collected the invoices/removed the packing and took EVERYTHING I had to this machinist.when I got the bottom end back was when I started to raise some questions, and by then he had already started on the head...
at all times this guy had ALL my parts. used and new, and a detailed set of photos, AND a detailed notebook (basically a disassembly journal) the old parts were set into various holders and marked as to which whatever they came out of. I even brought my new gaskets and bolts/USED gaskets bolts (seperate containers)
First things first, the machinist kinda laughed about how I was going way too overboard, and that he'd just pitched most of the old parts/didn't need any of them.
the NEW parts, I expected would defiitely be needed and used during the machining processes. which is why I was surprised when I finally got the head back and only ONE intake and ONE exhaust valve had been opened. he hadn't even broken the seals on my new Supertech springs / locators / retainers
-and I certainly understand a machinist is going to use checking springs rather than high poundage performance springs, again, I expected the new parts to have been used during his procedures (in this case = LACK THEREOF)




What is the difference between 058, 06a and 06b heads?
obviously, MY block and head are 058 AEB. would an 06a or 06b head be an identical direct fit? or do I have to find another 058 AEB head?
I see that there are different adjustable cam gears offered for 06a -vs- 058
so since my block is an 058, is there any difference between which head I could use?

Sales@RAI
06-28-2009, 12:55 PM
absolutely not! I only opened the boxes as they arrived from Integrated Engineering, collected the invoices/removed the packing and took EVERYTHING I had to this machinist.when I got the bottom end back was when I started to raise some questions, and by then he had already started on the head...
at all times this guy had ALL my parts. used and new, and a detailed set of photos, AND a detailed notebook (basically a disassembly journal) the old parts were set into various holders and marked as to which whatever they came out of. I even brought my new gaskets and bolts/USED gaskets bolts (seperate containers)
First things first, the machinist kinda laughed about how I was going way too overboard, and that he'd just pitched most of the old parts/didn't need any of them.
the NEW parts, I expected would defiitely be needed and used during the machining processes. which is why I was surprised when I finally got the head back and only ONE intake and ONE exhaust valve had been opened. he hadn't even broken the seals on my new Supertech springs / locators / retainers
-and I certainly understand a machinist is going to use checking springs rather than high poundage performance springs, again, I expected the new parts to have been used during his procedures (in this case = LACK THEREOF)




What is the difference between 058, 06a and 06b heads?
obviously, MY block and head are 058 AEB. would an 06a or 06b head be an identical direct fit? or do I have to find another 058 AEB head?
I see that there are different adjustable cam gears offered for 06a -vs- 058
so since my block is an 058, is there any difference between which head I could use?

Like I said you can use both the cam gear and SAI are the only differences... There is no 06B head just small port and big port. The big ports dont have SAI

Also, you look to be TDC, The crank pulley shows when the crank is at TDC, but the head is at TDC when the cams line up with the triangles in the back of the head

JK35
06-28-2009, 01:07 PM
what did you mean by "SAI"?
and does this mean I'll need to reuse MY 058 cam gear on this head?
(The key that fixes the cam gear to the cam broke on me last night when I tried turning the cam gear with a belt visegrip. fortunately this didn't happen while the head was on the car!
so if I need an 058 timing gear to use on this head, I'm going to have to find a new one...
the bolts on this head... you said they were Polydrive right? are they 11mm or 10mm?

Sales@RAI
06-28-2009, 02:20 PM
good luck dude

pipe7284
06-28-2009, 10:50 PM
the AEB head came with the 058 block, which come in the late year B5s, aka Big intake port heads, many early year B5s and some B6s "upgrade" to our heads since it flows more air. There are some pics in here that shows the intake port differences between the heads. Stay with an AEB head.

mike-2ptzero
06-29-2009, 12:20 AM
Take the head to a real machine shop that has worked on these before or one that is willing to stand behind his work to see if they can salvage the head. If not then you will need to hunt down another AEB head.

JK35
07-03-2009, 01:24 PM
The head is back, and the valves appear to seal without AND with the cams. I haven't checked it on the motor though. -Just with fluid and a shop vac on my bench...
So far, So Good! but In order to check it on the motor, I need to solve my timing.
And I'm having some real issues getting the timing set.

The mark on the plastic timing cover and the mark on the crank pulley do NOT match when I am at TDC.
(I am determining TDC like this:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-186.jpg

when I am at TDC, -according to my dial indicator... then the crank pulley mark is counterclockwise from the mark on the cover, but the mark on the CAM GEAR is clockwise (ahead) of it's mark on the valve cover by what looks to be a half tooth. -the tooth has the mark, and the gullet before that marked tooth is what is lining up to the mark on the cover.

This doesn't seem right!

Now I do have an adjustable cam gear. Theoretically, I could back the cam gear up so that the mark aligns perfectly while the #1 piston is at dial indicator verified top dead ceter.

In it's current state, the adjustable cam gear is at ZERO. to force my timing mark to line up, I would have to ADVANCE the adjustable cam gear about 3 or 4 degrees (guestimate just by looking at it)

What do I NEED to do here?
Are my teeth off? is adjusting the cam gear necessary?

Is there a slight cam timing retard "built in" to the marks, or in other words, is it supposed to be a half tooth off?


I think today might actually be THE DAY, but I really need some help here... and will most gratefully appreciate any advice and direction that you might be willing to provide

thanks!
-Kyle

GR-RALLYE
07-03-2009, 02:38 PM
the timing wont be exactly perfect, i had the same problem when i stroked mine, even before I did the marks never lined up exactly. I set my cyl #1 to TDC then put the cam sprocket a tooth ahead and when you put the tensioner in it should pull the cam sproket a bit back and put you around half a tooth off

JK35
07-03-2009, 05:49 PM
OK, I have my timing to where I THINK it is right. here are a couple pics...
Again, I set #1 piston to TDC using a dial indicator...
like this:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-2231.jpg


and I have cycled through more than a few times but my timing marks did not move. they are exactly where they were when I put the belt on
anyway, when I am at TDC, the mark on the cam gear is here:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-1286.jpg

the crank pulley is here:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-1921.jpg


I had to reuse the stretch bolt, as no VW nor Audi dealer in my area have the bolts. (there are 2 of each, and all but 1 stealership's part counter genius told me that no one has ever asked for that part... special order only... "why would you want one of those?"

as for a counterhold tool, this is what I came up with. Might not be the prettiest tool, but it got the job done!http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-1673.jpg

So, can anyone tell by the photos, whether my timing is "on" "OFF" or ???

JK35
07-05-2009, 07:28 PM
[cool]At 8:58pm Eastern she came to life!

(evidently my timing was right ;) )

Thanks to all who have helped, especially Pete Blais, Integrated Engineering and Bob Q. QED

AudiRacerS4
07-05-2009, 08:51 PM
you should NEVER reuse the crank bolt!!!

JK35
07-05-2009, 09:11 PM
Yeah, I know... the new ones will be here tomorrow. Nothing cut loose though. I idled up to operating temp, shut down and am waiting for FedEx to get here with my new crank bolts (bought a couple so I have extras on hand seeing how 3 out of 4 VW and Audi dealerships down here openly told me that their service departments routinely reuse the original bolts and have "never had any problems" the 4th dealership part counter idiot simply wouldn't admit nor deny, but did tell me that "no one ever orders those"

un-friggin-believable...

FedEx usually arrives before noon, that puts me at about 6-8pm by the time I've changed out the crank bolt and flywheel bolts, and I can proceed though my break-in sequence (hard and fast)

My aim is to get the rings wore in and then it's back in the garage for the AEM festivities.

I must say, I am completely surprised that I am idling and running quite fine and NOT throwing a CEL (yet)
I'm sure that will change after a couple hard pulls tomorrow night ;)

pipe7284
07-05-2009, 10:36 PM
glad that she is alive and you are happy. post vids and pics of the car.

JK35
07-08-2009, 07:50 PM
I really do need to get a working video recorder. hell, I can barely get photos transferred out of my POS iPhone to my brokedick PC, but haven't wanted to spend on anything except for the build...

I'm steadily working the bugs out, and as of tonight I have all 5 gears + reverse, am running on all 4 cylinders, and have sorted out all but 3 boost/vac leaks.
I have some AN fittings/hose/silicone tubing arriving tomorrow or Friday, so I should have basic boost control and gauges by this weekend.

I think I'm just about ready to start in on the AEM install, and was scouting for potential installation locations this evening.

Now I have the 30-1900U EMS and also an AEM Twin Fire CDI ignition about to go in. harnesses are being built from scratch, so this should be a fun installation.
I'll see what I can scare up for a video cam and try to get some clips posted up