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View Full Version : clearancing/grinding pics/stroking 058 AEB



JK35
03-22-2009, 04:22 PM
I'm looking for pics of the grinding/clearancing others have done while stroking 058 AEB's I have an OBD1 ABA crank, IE rods and JE stroker pistons. The official displacement increase thread is great and all, but I am hoping someone know of some detailed pics of the actual grinding/machining work up close before I commence to making my block a bit lighter[cool]
TIA

A4Rob
03-22-2009, 05:13 PM
Just bring your crank, pistons, rods and block to the machine shop and have them do all the boring. They will put all the rotating parts in the block and turn it to make sure it clears.

317ssayzarc
03-22-2009, 05:33 PM
I took pics of exactly where I clearanced the block and how much I took off the IM shaft. What are you looking for?

turbo944s2
03-23-2009, 03:50 PM
Look at Pauls 20/20 thread. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105602&page=2

JK35
03-24-2009, 04:15 PM
the 20/20 thread is a good start, but I still can't see everything I need to see in order to feel comfortable grinding away on my block. -the walls I need to grind look pretty damned thin, and it seems like I'm going to need to grind quite a bit if I'm to have any kind of clearance[o_o]

Jake, I would appreciate all the pics you care to share. I'm using IE rods, and I'm hitting on both sides of the block. It feels like the rod is hitting the edge of the cylinder on the IM shaft side of the block... does this sound right?

I'm also unsure how much clearance I need to grind beyond the last point of contact. How much of a gap should I make?

I REALLY need to see some pics of a correctly ground IM shaft. I've "heard" the gear gets taken down to about 6mm, but that's not much use without a photo to see what it should actually look like. Speaking of the balance shaft/IM shaft/whichever the correct terminology may be, how is it supposed to be indexed to my "new" ABA crank in order to gain BALANCE? There's an index spot on the cog, but I have no clue where it is supposed to fix in relation to the crank, or if it CAN even "balance" a crank for which it wasn't intended[confused] What have you guys done, what worked and what didn't?
thanks to all!

ghost6303
03-24-2009, 04:59 PM
post number 40 here shows the clearanced IM shaft with scat rods. usualy 5.5mm thick is what the gear is taken down to but it depends on what your rods need...
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246034

here is what an IM shaft looks like after grinding. there are also pics of a ground IM shaft in the 20/20 build thread (post #68)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259919

as for balancing, you can have each individual shaft balanced so that they are symmetrically weighted, then when you have it all assembled, take it to a machine shop and they can balance the whole assembly once it is together.

JK35
03-25-2009, 07:37 AM
so that gear gets cut down to nothing[o_o] Oh well... like that thread from the link said, no one has broken one yet...
I'm running into something unexpected. I'm using IE rods on an OBD1 ABA crank. the front cylinder (with a stock rod and stock piston) clears fine with no grinding needed at all. I pin a stock piston to one of the IE rods and it is hitting on the entrance to the cylinder!!! All the pics I've seen show the block walls getting a good shave, but I can't make out where anyone has ground down the crankcase cylinder deck. As I'm seeing this, it looks like I need to grind the meat that basically holds the cylinder which will encompass grinding down into the cylinder itself! Is this right?

317ssayzarc
03-25-2009, 08:12 AM
What pistons are you using?

ghost6303
03-25-2009, 11:22 AM
the "deck" you mentioned is the flat part of the top of the block, where the head gasket goes. you shouldnt be grinding anything on the deck. did you mean its hitting around the bottom edge of the cylinder itself?

chris164935
03-25-2009, 03:10 PM
Oh well... like that thread from the link said, no one has broken one yet...
I've seen blocks split in half from intermediate shafts not properly balanced. I wouldn't recommend shaving it yourself... Unless your power goals are 300-400whp.


As I'm seeing this, it looks like I need to grind the meat that basically holds the cylinder which will encompass grinding down into the cylinder itself! Is this right?
LOL. You say you have "JE stroker pistons"; in order to get to 2L of displacement, your stroker pistons are bigger in diameter (83mm probably). What you are talking about, "grinding down into the cylinder itself" is called boring the block and is required to install your stroker pistons to get a 2L. It's also something you can't do in your house's garage/appartment parking/wherever. In any case, I would recommend you let a shop do most all of your work as it sounds like you don't know what you are doing...

ghost6303
03-25-2009, 04:02 PM
i think he meant that the rods are hitting the very bottom edge of the cylinder. you cant really clearance everything now with the stock pistons because when you have it bored out you will get some extra clearance on the sides and it might not hit then. its something you have to do on final assembly after you get it back from the machine shop.