Stock DV?

[JRMSLINEA4]

Can someone post a pic of the location? [headbang] Thanks.

[mksap11]

Can someone post a pic of the location? [headbang] Thanks.

Part #15 in the diagram below. It's on front part of your engine, just behind the grille. If you have big hands, it's kind of a b*tch to get to

http://i43.tinypic.com/r94dbo.png

[JRMSLINEA4]

Part #15 in the diagram below. It's on front part of your engine, just behind the grille. If you have big hands, it's kind of a b*tch to get to

http://i43.tinypic.com/r94dbo.pngOk found it thanks. Whats the trick to removing it? What all do I need to remove to get to it and is it easier to do from under the car?

[Grishbok]

yes, easy from under the car, its held in by 3 torx screws. To remove it easily, you need patience, and a extended torx bit.

[06B7audiA4]

yes, easy from under the car, its held in by 3 torx screws. To remove it easily, you need patience, and a extended torx bit.

I found it to be a B*tch

[JRMSLINEA4]

yes, easy from under the car, its held in by 3 torx screws. To remove it easily, you need patience, and a extended torx bit.Thanks. Audizine rocks! [wrench]

[Grishbok]

Yeah, if you are going to be working on the car, a long torx toolset like this will make everything ALOT easier.

http://www.devildogtools.com/vimto4518lot.html?CAWELAID=281584150

[Zebman]

I used a T45 with a 1/4" 6-inch extension and a ratchet. Tip: do it while the block is cold. I kept wanting to lean my hand on the block to get leverage. The smell of burnt hair and flesh started to remind me to not do it.

[adub]

patience and skinny hands... my Asian friend did it for me :)

[mksap11]

yes, easy from under the car, its held in by 3 torx screws. To remove it easily, you need patience, and a extended torx bit.

IIRC, it's actually held in place by 3 5mm hex bolts. I ended up using torx bits too though because it was sorta hard to get to

[barkerd427]

You could probably use a hex head, but they are actually torx bolts. I just did mine last night.

[illegitimus]

http://i43.tinypic.com/r94dbo.png
What app is this image from?

[mshull123]

Its from the bentley manual.

[van462]

You could probably use a hex head, but they are actually torx bolts. I just did mine last night.

Odd mine were also 5mm allen (2007). I just took a T handle allen driver and chopped it (OAL 4.75") so it cleared the radiator. Biggest pain for me was my braided oil line had a burr on it and until I wrapped it in a rag it cut me up fairly well.

[WayzataAudi]

Mine was hex as well...i remember getting pissed cus i had to use and allen wrench and it was a PITA.

[aaron1085]

real pics?

[colt45ss]

real pics?

i cut the bend off a 5mm allen wrench used a 1/4 drive 5mm and it came off like a dream i measured the cut so i clear all 3
the longest part of the job was to meausure and cut the allen whoever said chinese steel is cheap ......[wrench]

[SeattleAWD]

So I was just out working on mine this evening. I had a P0299 CEL and figured the diverter valve had to be the issue.

I have a 2006 A4 2.0T and used a 5mm hex for mine with a three inch extension. It was a bit of a pain to get the bolts out, but with some patience, they came fine.

After taking mine off, nothing looked wrong with it. I pulled the black housing (right next to the yellow o-ring gasket) off (which easily snaps on and off) and pulled out the green rubber. It was clearly torn. I've attached pictures so you can see what the tear looked like.

http://markdunford.com/images/diverter_valve.png

http://markdunford.com/images/rubber_culprit.png

[DRAKLORE]

Hella bump, but good content nonetheless

Here's mine from a few years ago, had an identical tear to yours

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/2548eac0.jpg

[jsandor91]

you think thats bad?
mine completely tore off lol
i was driving my car N/A for like a week [down]
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7252/7512852802_a9ff1f1345_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79881586@N02/7512852802/) IMAG0150 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79881586@N02/7512852802/) by jsandor91 (http://www.flickr.com/people/79881586@N02/), on Flickr

[SeattleAWD]

That top section should remove. Did the rubber tear or did you just lose that entire black holder? Crazy if you did. What a cheap piece of ....

[jsandor91]

when i pulled it off it was in two pieces. the holder crumbled i believe.
every time i hit the gas it sounded like a bov lol.

[Salt n Peppa]

My buddy mdlamm thought his sounded cool, and so did I so I thought mine was bad, then it got more and more dramatic, whistling and such, then we got drunk and compared it to the sound a helium balloon makes when you stretch the opening apart, makes a funny rubber whistling noise... yep... hole in his mine was perfect haha. Moral of the story is, the more ricer it sounds, the worse it is! Good Luck!

[DRAKLORE]

you think thats bad?


Competitive much lol



Anyways, mine went from sounding like a BOV... And now
I have a BOV :)
Beat that

[stupdfresh]

So I was just out working on mine this evening. I had a P0299 CEL and figured the diverter valve had to be the issue.

I have a 2006 A4 2.0T and used a 5mm hex for mine with a three inch extension. It was a bit of a pain to get the bolts out, but with some patience, they came fine.

After taking mine off, nothing looked wrong with it. I pulled the black housing (right next to the yellow o-ring gasket) off (which easily snaps on and off) and pulled out the green rubber. It was clearly torn. I've attached pictures so you can see what the tear looked like.

http://markdunford.com/images/diverter_valve.png

http://markdunford.com/images/rubber_culprit.png

Was this the "upgraded D version" that had torn?

[DRAKLORE]

No^^ that green One is like the very first revision DV.

If you look at post #19 the one
On the right is a rev D piston style
That cannot tear

[SeattleAWD]

The green rubber was from the OEM. In post #19's picture it would be most similar to the one at left. The one on the right has no rubber piece from what I could tell on disassemble.

Yeah. That looks like the new one I got. ECS made it seem like an aftermarket part (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/News/Audi_20T_DiverterValveUpgrade/ES263879/), but its the same manufacturer as the OEM part. It seems way stronger and I didn't see any rubber pieces on the inside. Pray it holds.


TOOLS
For those of you who are attempting this, you may want to consider buying the Craftsman MAX AXESS socket set. Its super low profile and saved my hands on this job from constantly hitting into the radiator fan blades.

I used the small socket wrench, three inch extension, 1/4inch socket (to fit a standard screwdriver bit) and a 5mm bit and was able to reassemble everything in about 25 minutes with good light (essential - the iPhone LED was perfect resting behind my head).


QUICK NOTES ON REINSTALL
The upper part of the diverter valve removes and is replaced pretty easily. This is the black piece next to the yellow o-ring gasket. I was freaked out when mine first came apart on reinstall, but you'll see that it snaps back together easily.

Also, when looking up from the bottom of the car, the bolt hole furthest to the passenger side has a small 1mm (I'm guessing) plastic guide piece. When you're reassembling, its super useful to snap that into place while trying to guide the first bolt in. Secure that bolt and guide and that'll give you good alignment for the other two bolts that are difficult to see as they go in.

Do the electrical wire last. Otherwise it gets in the way of the passenger side bolt I spoke of above.

The reassemble took me about 25mins, but I swear, the astronauts haven't attempted something that difficult. Its a pain in the ass and you've gotta be patient.


RESULTS
I cleared the P0299 code and the car drives phenomenally. It really feels like a new car. Tons of power. My car has felt sluggish for about six months and I only got this code last week. I suspect its been leaking for some time and only now lost enough boost that it triggered the CEL. If your part is OEM, consider upgrading it to the D revision discussed above. I know at least the 2005.5, 2006 and 2007 model years had the crap part. 2008 may have as well, but I haven't seen it taken apart. They may have gone to D by that point.

[Dat Black Kid]

So glad you answered my question on what tools I need to use, because I would've been searching and end up buying the wrong tools in the end.

[SeattleAWD]

This is the OEM part disassembled. Parts stack in order from left to right - all go straight down on the center drive bar and black piece just snaps into place, holding everything.

http://markdunford.com/images/disassembled.png

[papadelogan]

yes, easy from under the car, its held in by 3 torx screws. To remove it easily, you need patience, and a extended torx bit.

THIS!


I found it to be a B*tch

Definitely


patience and skinny hands... my Asian friend did it for me :)

CHEATING FTW!!!

[Dat Black Kid]

I apologize for bringing this thread back up. Now, I can just buy the DevilDog torx set, but would any normal size socket wrench do, or is there a specific one you all recommend?

[Salt n Peppa]

Any old socket set will work, just pick up a small set at Sears and some torx sockets. Easy, and cheap, and will come in handy several times in the future. I just used a small 1/4" drive with a 3" extension, nothing special. Two came out easy, the back one I practiced lots of patience with. Good luck!

[Dat Black Kid]

Well.....if we had a Sears, I would. I have to check the Turkish hardware store and see if they have what I need. Thanks!

[Salt n Peppa]

Holy hell, I totally forgot you were stationed out there haha, my bad! Yeah, any old thing will do, Sears was just an example, not the only option by any means. Just regular ass ratchets and stuff, no "special tool" required really.

[Dat Black Kid]

Hahaha, yep! It's all good. It's tough out here. The Audi's here are way overpriced....don't mean to derail the thread....so getting Audi service out here is a hefty price to pay. I won't go into any stories, but lets just say that they lied about changing my oil, and wanted to rip out my whole wire harness without telling me! That's why I'm actually doing the normal maintenance myself. I will definitely check the store today when I can escape traffic.

[Salt n Peppa]

Hahahaha wow! My dealership calls my car the green monster and knows me by name haha, probably not a good thing! You paint your reservoir caps green and boom... reputation. Tarded.

[konarider94]

I apologize for bringing this thread back up. Now, I can just buy the DevilDog torx set, but would any normal size socket wrench do, or is there a specific one you all recommend?

they were allen head bolts on the 2 cars that ive changed them on...not torx

[Salt n Peppa]

I believe mine were allen as well, but it doesn't hurt to have them around with this car. especially if you take your bumper off...

[Dat Black Kid]

Hahahaha wow! My dealership calls my car the green monster and knows me by name haha, probably not a good thing! You paint your reservoir caps green and boom... reputation. Tarded.

Hahah...that means you must go there alot. For the wire harness situation, it all started with the CEL. What happened? Shell gave me f'ed up gas to the point of where I could hear my car make little poop "detonation-like" noises. I made the assumption that Shell gave me regular gas and not premium, so...I put in STP Octane Booster. Well the wife (my car) didn't appreciate that one bit. Once the STP worked its way out of the car, everything was good. I have a year left here before I head to TOKYO, JP...and put this car in storage. I was hoping for my service light to reset and give me new service dates, but I got nothing, so I'm going to have to pay attention of when it needs service.

Kona: thanks. My mistake.

[Sowerbutts]

I just did this swap this past weekend and took photos... I'll post a link. I thought the hardest part was taking the ground effects pans off.
The 3 torx bolts came out easy but good lighting is important.
Mine had blue thread locker on them and a white pain mark from the factory.
Question - the spring in the spool piece -- would s stiffer spring help maintain boost a little longer - higher pressure?
I know on the "Forge" vacuum DV's ... They come with different spring rates and spacers.