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Wankel
02-21-2009, 07:21 PM
So today I noticed that my low beams, turn signals, wipers and heater/ac don't work. However the cruise control and the mileage button at the end of the washer stalk work, as well as the hazards.

I searched for these symptoms and found that many people replace the hazard relay, however some others replace the stalks, and some the relays... so which is it? Can anyone that has experienced this help me out?

Thanks,
Chad

Wankel
02-21-2009, 08:43 PM
It seems my problem may be a Load Reduction Relay, I will try to get one from the dealer and go from there.

A4_Joe
02-21-2009, 11:53 PM
did you check the fuses box to see if any of them are blown??

Wankel
02-21-2009, 11:55 PM
did you check the fuses box to see if any of them are blown??

Yeah that's the first thing I did, none of them are...

Wankel
02-23-2009, 06:24 PM
Went and picked up the load reduction relay today and it didn't solve the problem... any more suggestions? I don't think it could be the headlight stalk because both the headlight/turn signals AND the wipers don't work, neither does the a/c.

Recap of what works and doesnt work -

WORKS -
High Beams
Hazards
Cruise Control
Mileage switch at end of wiper stalk

DOESNT WORK -
Low Beams
Turn Signals
Wipers
Horn
A/C

walky_talky20
02-24-2009, 12:21 AM
How about the rear window defroster? Does that work?

My guess is the Ignition switch. Have you tried "jiggling" it any? Another possibility is some connectivity issue to the Load Reduction relay. Can you feel it click when you turn the key on?

If you unplug the relay the socket should have 1 terminal with power at all times, 1 terminal with power with the key in the "run" position, 1 terminal with ground at all times, and 1 terminal for the circuit load (wipers, horn, blower, etc).

Good Luck.

Wankel
02-24-2009, 10:33 AM
How about the rear window defroster? Does that work?

My guess is the Ignition switch. Have you tried "jiggling" it any? Another possibility is some connectivity issue to the Load Reduction relay. Can you feel it click when you turn the key on?

If you unplug the relay the socket should have 1 terminal with power at all times, 1 terminal with power with the key in the "run" position, 1 terminal with ground at all times, and 1 terminal for the circuit load (wipers, horn, blower, etc).

Good Luck.

I will go buy a switch today from VW, I hope thats solves it.

I pulled up the P/N - 4B0 905 849

werewolves182
02-24-2009, 10:42 AM
Check this out man: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2494491.phtml

My Load Reduction Relay went out a few weeks ago. Was causing a dead battery too.

Wankel
02-24-2009, 10:54 AM
Check this out man: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2494491.phtml

My Load Reduction Relay went out a few weeks ago. Was causing a dead battery too.

Did you read anything in this thread? I already did that...

werewolves182
02-24-2009, 11:07 AM
I did read the thread, I was referring to the part number in the article but now I realize you got the VW p/n. My bad.

Wankel
02-24-2009, 11:21 AM
I did read the thread, I was referring to the part number in the article but now I realize you got the VW p/n. My bad.

The P/N I posted is not the relay, its the ignition switch that walky_talky20 suggested after finding that the relay did not fix the problem. [confused]

werewolves182
02-24-2009, 11:39 AM
Wow, im an idiot. Completely missed that haha. It that case, I hope that fixes the problems.

walky_talky20
02-24-2009, 12:39 PM
I was hoping you might take my advice and test your own switch first. I'd feel bad if you bought a part on my advice and it didn't fix your problem.

With this kind of issue you should be able to positively identify the problem with a multimeter and the wiring diagram. I've only got the diagram, and the limited info you provided. If it is indeed the ignition switch, usually "jiggling" your key a bit will cause things to change.

For something like this you should start with one system and work your way back. Say, the horn - no power to the horn relay, where is power supposed to come from? - read the diagram and work your way back to the underlying problem.

In your case it seems like the load reduction relay isn't closing. Since its not the relay itself it could be that the relay is missing power, which comes from the ignition switch. This is easy to test - while turning the key from off to on, put your hand on top of the relay and feel it "click". But you wouldn't want to replace the ignition switch if it ends up being just a lousy ground to the relay.

A good test to see if we are on the right track here: Remove the Load Reduction Relay completely. If the problems stay the same then the problem is the relay not closing (relay not getting the signal). If more stuff breaks, then the relay is working fine and the problem is downstream.

Sorry to rant. I guess what I'm saying is, don't go replacing parts unless they test bad. My guess was the ignition switch. I'm not suggesting you replace it, I'm suggesting you test yours.

Wankel
02-24-2009, 12:46 PM
Haha, I will go ahead and test it first, in the process of replacing the old relay I did take it out and see what its reaction was without it, and it didn't seem to break anything else. With that said I think you are probably right on the money, but I will have a look before I head out to buy the $100 part...Thanks a TON!

walky_talky20
02-24-2009, 01:08 PM
No Problem.

After reading the other thread about the relay, I'm definitely thinking its the Ignition Switch. Those particular accessories point to the relay, but the relay does not control the headlights, that is the switch alone. I've checked the diagram again and it seems that the low beams and Load Reduction relay are energized from the same part of the ignition switch, but the high beams do not run through the switch. This explains why high beams still work but some accessories and the low beams do not.

Good Luck, I hope you can get it fixed.

walky_talky20
02-24-2009, 01:11 PM
I'm not sure if you've got a repair manual, but here are some instructions for removing and installing the ignition switch.

http://www.pvv.org/~shane/stasj/pics/motor/dokumentasjon/A4-S4_B5/Electrical%20Equipment/94-41%20Ignition%20switch%20lock%20cylinder.pdf

Wankel
02-24-2009, 01:15 PM
I'm not sure if you've got a repair manual, but here are some instructions for removing and installing the ignition switch.

http://www.pvv.org/~shane/stasj/pics/motor/dokumentasjon/A4-S4_B5/Electrical%20Equipment/94-41%20Ignition%20switch%20lock%20cylinder.pdf

Not yet, I really need to buy one. I was checking to see if anyone uploaded it to .pdf anywhere but I haven't found any. For my RX-7 they had a webpage with the entire generations of rotaries so it was easy to look it up on the factory service manual.

Wankel
02-24-2009, 05:57 PM
So I bought the switch but I haven't installed it yet. I am certain that this is part of the problem now because when I went to drive the car again to pick up the part I tried wiggling the key in the ignition and everything started working again! But get this, as soon as I flip the headlights on to check them, everything goes out. Why would this be happening?

Wankel
02-25-2009, 04:35 PM
Well the problem has been solved by the ignition switch!

It turns out one of the prongs got SUPER HOT, and melted the plug on the opposite side, but only melted the small section where the switch plugs into that particular terminal. So basically the plastic around the terminal melted and got in between the connectors and ultimately blocked the connection. Even the wire on the harness got hot because it was supposed to be red and at the end of the harness near the plug it was brown!

SO, let this be reference to anyone else searching for this type of issue.

P/N for Ignition Switch from VW - 4B0-905-849 - $113
P/N for Load Reduction Relay from VW - 7M0-951-253-A - $32

The new Relay has the number 100 on the end of it now, not 213 and not 370.

Thanks to anyone that helped!

G-low
04-09-2012, 01:10 PM
anyone have a diagram for the wires coming off of relay 213? im having a problem with something drawing power constantly