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honzinator
12-15-2008, 10:05 PM
now i know that the 1.8t should be running with 5w-40, but is it better to run 10w-30 if its high mileage? i have 120xxx......should i still stick with 5w-40 synthetic??

bob12312357
12-15-2008, 10:57 PM
No, especially going into the winter. Our turbos have very tiny oil lines and you risk clogging them. Use the recomended oil. 10w is a no no.

djwimbo
12-15-2008, 11:23 PM
If you're having a clogging issue in the oil lines the oil won't make a huge difference. At that point the lines are breaking down and internally falling apart, they should be replaced.

Anyways, back on topic. I Run Mobil 1 0W-40 all year. I haven't had an oil pressure issue yet, but I've dealt with a few customers that need 10w-30 to prevent the oil pressure light coming on at warm idle.

317ssayzarc
12-15-2008, 11:55 PM
15w-40 here... No problems

And Dan, if you NEED 10w-30 to stop the oil light from coming on, you have serious serious issues... That light comes on at under 12psi...

J Ozzie
12-16-2008, 02:43 AM
Ive ran mobil 1 5w 50 in my car for so long, good in the summer id say. Now ive got to the steelerships recommends Castrol 5W 30. Im going to try mobil's 0w40 Euro Blend. I dont think id ever put 10w 30 in my car.

PS Driving a turbo car you should know that after a rip you must give it time to cool...30 seconds at least so you dont bake the oil in the lines and fuck the turbo over. Or buy yourself a turbo timer.

MacDaddy
12-16-2008, 03:02 AM
10W-30 isn't any thicker, it just covers a narrow spectrum of temperatures.

I ran 5W-50 in my TT S4 this summer, and i'm running 5W-30 for the winter right now. My S4 burns a bit of oil, but i just live with it and top it up with whatever i have in there at the time it needs topping up(it only needs about 2L between oil changes, IMO thats not bad).

probably going to run redline 5w40 when the spring comes.

Seerlah
12-16-2008, 04:35 AM
I use 5w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. But am currently running 0w30 (Amsoil) then will swtich to the 5w40 Euro blend (Amsoil) in the summer. But elevation also has a factor upon which weight to go with.

MacDaddy
12-16-2008, 12:25 PM
But elevation also has a factor upon which weight to go with.

thats the boiling point of water, not a viscosity index.

le91688
12-16-2008, 12:29 PM
5w40

1NaudiA4
12-16-2008, 12:33 PM
Why do you guys switch to xw-40 to xw-30 in the winter? Your still experiencing the same oil temps in the winter as in summer. To me it would only be worth it to decrease the cold viscosity of the oil so it would flow a little bit better at start up.

Personally I'm running Shell 15w-40 for break-in then probably switching it over to Amsoil 15w-40 after my 1500 mile break-in is done.

J Ozzie
12-16-2008, 01:32 PM
if you burn oil wouldnt you run someting a little thicker?

flynnr
12-16-2008, 01:35 PM
where are you guys finding euro blend... ? dont think ive came across that

i run 0w 30 in winter mobil 1 full syn.

1NaudiA4
12-16-2008, 01:47 PM
if you burn oil wouldnt you run someting a little thicker?

Thats the idea. Especially if your running an upgraded turbo set-up and beat the snot out of your car from time to time. Even more so if you spend a lot of time on the highway at higher rpms.

Amsoil Euro Blend (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx)

Amsoil 15w-40 (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pco.aspx)

I'm personally going to be running the 15w-40 Amsoil blend once my motor is broken in. If its good enough for a $20,000 diesel motor I'm sure it will be just fine for my lil 4 banger [:D].

Kyle H
12-16-2008, 02:24 PM
I've run everything from 0w30 to 10w40 to 20w50(when I first got my car i took it to a retarded shop [:(]) Right now I'm running 10w40 Mobil 1.

Make sure you get the correct filter.... I order mine from ecs or purems and get the Mahle or Mann oversized filters.

Naudi_Mat
12-16-2008, 03:06 PM
Run 5W-40 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter and it's always full synthetic. Also I only use the Mann filters, or Mahle. And make sure to pick those up from Avalon everytime I need one.

arorem
12-16-2008, 03:22 PM
0w40 euro blend, all year, no problems.

mike-2ptzero
12-16-2008, 09:52 PM
15w-40 here... No problems

And Dan, if you NEED 10w-30 to stop the oil light from coming on, you have serious serious issues... That light comes on at under 12psi...

Ouch, you road racing that car daily pushing the oil temps to 225-250 all the time? That thick oil is just causing your turbo to spool up later.


I used to run Redline 10w40 but switched to 5w30.


Provides the quickest starts and fastest oil pressure rise. Will reduce turbo lag and provides more power and best economy in an engine in good condition. Best choice for engines operated in extreme cold weather. [:D]

djwimbo
12-16-2008, 11:07 PM
Why do you guys switch to xw-40 to xw-30 in the winter? Your still experiencing the same oil temps in the winter as in summer. To me it would only be worth it to decrease the cold viscosity of the oil so it would flow a little bit better at start up.

Do you understand the meanings of the xW-xx numbers?
The first number is what viscosity the oil is at freezing temps (0*C or 32*F) and the second number is the viscosity at water's boiling point (100*C or 212*F). It's rated at water's boiling point b/c that's one of the key things that lead to oil break down/contamination.

I run a 0w-40(502.00 approved) as it helps through all climate conditions and helps oil pressure on start up. I installed an electronic oil pressure gauge in my car to keep an eye on it. I can tell by how fast the oil pressure build up on start up how old my oil is. Believe it or not, but I pay that much attention to it.

EDIT: If you want to talk about quick build up of oil pressure go have a chat with Honda engineers. New Honda's are factory fill (and replacement) of 0W-20 in most models. IIRC the only car/FUV Honda sells that's a factory fill of 5W-30 is the S2000, and I think that has changed since I no left that company.


And Dan, if you NEED 10w-30 to stop the oil light from coming on, you have serious serious issues... That light comes on at under 12psi...

Me personally? Nah, I get 18psi at idle after fully warmed up, 45+psi @ 2500rpm, 55psi @ 3500rpm and ~60psi >4000rpm. According to manufacturer specs, I'm golden. [wrench]

As far as the customer cars that I've seen with issues, it's always up to temp and at idle. We've used 10w-30 and 15W-40 to help them out some, but as far as engine clearances, they're all in spec.

One of my coworkers at my recent employer went as far as plasti-gauging all the bearings(cams, rods, crank), replacing the oil pump and pressure switch, everything was apparently in spec and it continued to be an issue. I don't know if they ever solved that issue or not.

EDIT: Mike I run my 0W-40 all the time. I don't know if my spool characteristics would change since I'm on the stock-ish turbo or not. BUT, I never see 250*F oil temps at the track. It will sit between 220 and 240, but I've never seen my car go higher than that.
My buddies MK4 almost pegged the gauge on the same track day. For how much faster he was running in comparison to my times, I don't see how he built up that much heat.

v1nyd
12-16-2008, 11:27 PM
Royal Purple I will stand by them till the day I die. Watch the comparision videos of Royal Purple Oil versus Mobil 1 synthetic. Royal Purple's is way more superior than any oil you'll find at a normal parts store or jiffy lube...you'll have to go to a speed shop or order it online. It's a bit expensive but it's awesome. When I had my old bimmer my 2nd gear would grind when the tranny was cold, I did a Royal Purple tranny fluid flush and my tranny felt a billion times better and never grinded again. Just my opinion but you're really be fine with any 5w-40 synthetic oil, I was just suggesting RP if you don't mind spending the extra money.

J Ozzie
12-17-2008, 02:42 AM
yeah thats what i figured, Right now im running what the steelership says 5w30 and i notice in the -7 to - 10's at crank up it takes a second or 2 to purr. ill run the 0w40 in the spring time or so maybe 5w 50. in the hott summer

kingdon
12-17-2008, 03:11 AM
You guys are killing me everyone is running a different grade oil so what is the correct one especially if you have high mileage like me 160 on the clock, I was told to use 20 - 50 because I have high mileage so I did with a half bottle of Lucas motor oil. Now its winter I am going to use 10-40 next oil change, 2000 1.8T Thanks on your feed back guys.

djwimbo
12-17-2008, 09:26 AM
You guys are killing me everyone is running a different grade oil so what is the correct one especially if you have high mileage like me 160 on the clock, I was told to use 20 - 50 because I have high mileage so I did with a half bottle of Lucas motor oil. Now its winter I am going to use 10-40 next oil change, 2000 1.8T Thanks on your feed back guys.

I have 178K on mine, and I used to regularly beat the hell out of it(AutoX). I use the 0W-40. If anything, me running a quality oil through it helped clean it out a bit.

If you want to know what's "right" for your engine, refer to manufacturer's recommendation. Otherwise it's all trial and error if you're doing something otherwise. There's no answer that I (or we) can give you that says if you have a 1.8T you have to run...
Only thing I would strongly suggest is that if you're running a turbo car, or specifically a 1.8T you use a synthetic oil.

onemoremile
12-17-2008, 09:55 AM
I never see 250*F oil temps at the track. It will sit between 220 and 240, but I've never seen my car go higher than that.
My buddies MK4 almost pegged the gauge on the same track day. For how much faster he was running in comparison to my times, I don't see how he built up that much heat.



I've gotten mine in the 260-280 range after a few really hard laps. Boost had fallen from a peak of 17 to about 5-7. I gave the point to pass and the Vette and 996 slid by and it took a couple casual laps with the heater maxxed to get everything cooled back off. As it cooled the power and response came back. That last hot lap must have been way down on power. After it cooled I threw it into the same lines and hit fourth gear on the back straight muuuuuch sooner. Too bad the Porsche guy was packing it in for the trip home.

I cooked that little turbo which must have put a lot of heat into the oil. Hell, I cooked the whole damn car that time. Brakes, cooling, oil, turbo, tires... good times.

J Ozzie
12-17-2008, 12:13 PM
just remember, if you dont wantto cook your turbo or bake the lines, after a run or a rip.. any time your boosting good for a while, let her run for 30 seconds.... dont believe me... go rip your car hard for 10 min after that pop your hood. look at your turbo manifold. it will be glowing red.

on that not use castrol 5w 30 synthetic for your 1.8t thats what the steelership recommends up here in canada. if not try 0w 40 mobil 1. like some of the guys are using. do your research. look at the oils. remember a thicker oil will take longer to warm up.. so you may get that grinding sound at start up. oh and for the books dont rip your car untill shes nice n warm. its like you taking an ice cold shower and then gettin bombed by hot water.

enjoy.

.Mad Hatter.
12-17-2008, 12:27 PM
Royal Purple I will stand by them till the day I die. Watch the comparision videos of Royal Purple Oil versus Mobil 1 synthetic. Royal Purple's is way more superior than any oil you'll find at a normal parts store or jiffy lube...you'll have to go to a speed shop or order it online. It's a bit expensive but it's awesome. When I had my old bimmer my 2nd gear would grind when the tranny was cold, I did a Royal Purple tranny fluid flush and my tranny felt a billion times better and never grinded again. Just my opinion but you're really be fine with any 5w-40 synthetic oil, I was just suggesting RP if you don't mind spending the extra money.


mobil 1 isnt a true fully synthetic oil...and neither is RP

mkturbo3
12-17-2008, 02:19 PM
just changed to total/elf 5w-40 what a difference

djwimbo
12-17-2008, 04:08 PM
I've gotten mine in the 260-280 range after a few really hard laps. Boost had fallen from a peak of 17 to about 5-7. I gave the point to pass and the Vette and 996 slid by and it took a couple casual laps with the heater maxxed to get everything cooled back off. As it cooled the power and response came back. That last hot lap must have been way down on power. After it cooled I threw it into the same lines and hit fourth gear on the back straight muuuuuch sooner. Too bad the Porsche guy was packing it in for the trip home.

I cooked that little turbo which must have put a lot of heat into the oil. Hell, I cooked the whole damn car that time. Brakes, cooling, oil, turbo, tires... good times.

I was rockin the N75 coupled with the MBC, so instead of peak'n'holding 18psi, I was down to 14psi in the straight. I learned quickly the point to pass technique. I used it a lot. [:(]
Mini JCW's Edition @ 1Bar > Heat soaked, overweight B5 A4 @ ~1Bar.

Jim - Were you running the K04 at that point?

The only thing I was worried about was the brakes, I couldn't touch my wheels for 1hr afterwards. I wonder how accurate my oil temp gauge is(the factory one)?