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View Full Version : Some good and some bad news...



317ssayzarc
09-26-2008, 09:18 PM
Bad news, not sure how to do the oil return line... The turbine flange is straight down from the center section... The compressor housing is to the front, the turbine housing to the back... The manifold to the drivers side and I could get it over the turbine flange to the passenger side but that would require it to go around the framerail and take a 45 degree turn, which is not good for a return line... Heres a pic:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/0926081953.jpg

Good news is the downpipe is all mocked up and just needs to 02 put in, and a brace to the tranny... Its all ready to be tig'd up...

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/0926082307.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/0926082308.jpg

Don Supreme
09-26-2008, 09:23 PM
return line definitely looks tricky.

Pete@IE
09-26-2008, 09:26 PM
You may not be able to do this, but I have found that the most reliable way to make difficult drain lines is to use a steel drain flange on the turbo, and to get 3/4" stainless steel x 16g. I just pie cut up as neccessary to maneuver out of the extremely hot areas, and then weld on a hose barb or AN fitting to go back to hose. I've messed with drain lines to no end on my car- the top mount / tubular manifolds are always difficult, and this is the most reliable method.

It is important to tig weld and backpurge so you do not end up with carbides floating around in your oil, although it should get caught in the filter anyways.

I would clock the turbo a bit towards the camera and then just sneak past the edge of the manifold and down and around. If you need a hose fab setup I think #10 AN 45 degree might work there with good heat shielding over it.

Don Supreme
09-27-2008, 05:28 AM
How did Bassed make his?

317ssayzarc
09-27-2008, 06:06 AM
I already spoke with Ian, I cannot do mine the way his is done, he has a Bullseye

t1demont1
09-27-2008, 11:27 AM
I dont know if the 3071 is different from the 35r but i did mine with a 45 right at the exit and it shoots out between the collector and cyl1 runner.

sorry about the blurryness but heres some refrence pics. I would show you with the turbo nd manifold on but my head is at the machine shop right now.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b273/t1demont1/DSC01098.jpg


this area is what im talkign about where i shoot mine through. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b273/t1demont1/DSC01099.jpg

djwimbo
09-27-2008, 12:55 PM
Can you run a bolt/s instead of a stud/s on that side of the turbo flange to get some more clearance?

That could make an extra .25"+ of clearance. Just a thought?

317ssayzarc
09-27-2008, 01:54 PM
Hmm, Im thinking of bolts and a 45 with 5/8" hard tube

djwimbo
09-27-2008, 02:16 PM
does that mean I had a good idea?

mike-2ptzero
09-27-2008, 02:55 PM
Since the flange is angled down on the fender side I would slightly clock the turbo so that you have a little more room for a 45 deg fitting. Then you can run it over the rail toward the radiator support as it sweeps down to the pan.

317ssayzarc
09-27-2008, 04:02 PM
does that mean I had a good idea?

Yea, and Mike told me bout ARP bolts, or I read it in a post or something

317ssayzarc
09-27-2008, 04:03 PM
Since the flange is angled down on the fender side I would slightly clock the turbo so that you have a little more room for a 45 deg fitting. Then you can run it over the rail toward the radiator support as it sweeps down to the pan.

It would hafta be at quite an angle to do that

quattro16
09-27-2008, 04:43 PM
Don't know if this helps but I used the factory return line and cut it at the end of the -12 line from the bottom. Put a -12 male to -12 to -10 adapter to -10 line to the oil pan. The piping part that bolts to the turbo you can bend some. This is the best pick I have of it.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1356.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1349.jpg

ladedruck
09-27-2008, 05:17 PM
what happened to your manifold to make it come apart like that?


Don't know if this helps but I used the factory return line and cut it at the end of the -12 line from the bottom. Put a -12 male to -12 to -10 adapter to -10 line to the oil pan. The piping part that bolts to the turbo you can bend some. This is the best pick I have of it.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1356.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1349.jpg

317ssayzarc
09-27-2008, 06:03 PM
You had your line rubbing the manifold?!

t1demont1
09-27-2008, 06:07 PM
bad idea

quattro16
09-27-2008, 09:18 PM
what happened to your manifold to make it come apart like that?

Well I guessed you missed my other posts over the last 6 months but that is the result of some quality welding. HAHAHA. Thats an 034 manifold thats been sent back 3 times and has cracked twice in the last two weeks. O yeah the car has 1700 miles on it!


You had your line rubbing the manifold?!

Yeah it rubs alittle. Has barely made a mark on the heat sheilding sleeve. And your talking about steel braided line. This stuff lasts, and is strong as hell.

Das General
09-27-2008, 09:20 PM
It looks as though it was starting burn though the sleeve. You could get a higher temp sleeve, I suppose.

quattro16
09-28-2008, 07:32 AM
That line is not even on my list of concerns for the car. I have bigger problems then that.
Trying to find a manifold that lasts more then one Auto X.

t1demont1
09-28-2008, 11:32 AM
SPA is it.

mike-2ptzero
09-28-2008, 01:59 PM
SPA is it.

Unless the person is looking to keep weight down.

quattro16
09-28-2008, 05:48 PM
Weight!

mike-2ptzero
09-28-2008, 06:59 PM
Weight!

LOL, I didn't even notice that. [>_<]

Fixed.