Rare Mod for AZ....an Audio Project!

[B7A4Sport]

EDIT: OK, I just realized the final pics of the install were stuffed down in the middle of the 2nd page, where people prolly didn't even see them, so now they're here:

The mounted Sirius player:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008099.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008103.jpg

The bass gain knob, installed in a small pocket that exists under the steering wheel:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008091.jpg

Here is a zoomed-out view, and if the steering wheel were a clock, look around 4-oclock and see the small black/shadowed line; that's the spot where the knob is:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008096.jpg


Now, the amp install - so clean!:

(with the right seat section folded forward)
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008106.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008107.jpg

And finally, just some general trunk pics to show the space that's still left:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008111.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008115.jpg

In this one, it gives the perfect angle to see how far the box extends; it goes to about the RIGHT-HAND edge of the plastic vent:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008118.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/05222008119.jpg


Thanks for the PM's and stuff guys, happy to help anyone who wants to integrate an aftermarket sub w/ their stock head unit....cuz "I got people." [race]

[ecks618]

I was just discussing this with a friend of mine who has a B6 A4. We both noticed that there really isn't any audio projects for A4 and were planning on doing something similar to what your doing.

Im interested as to how this turns out..Post pics of the progress. [wrench]

[R1NSE]

i am interested in adding a sub to my stock system. Let me know how it goes.

[Quattro]

hmmm a 10" w7 in the side compartment?? From my little understanding of w7's they require a large space to have optimal results. The box requirements for the 10" are prob bigger than the side compartment....I could be wrong and more than likely am but just trying to point that out.

I would love to see the end result, so I can get rid of my 13" w7 and have a "stealth box"

=D

[B7A4Sport]

You know your stuff Quattro - that is very correct. In reality, the size of this sub is such that no amount of air is "too much" when working within the scale of a car/trunk.

One of the reasons this install is gonna be so pricey is because I've gutted out that whole side of the trunk there. I know what you're thinking; there's a plastic compartment that doesn't appear to have much space behind it. Yea...that's all gone, and there's plenty of air back there! For anyone who doesn't know what this beast-of-a-sub looks like...here's some eye candy:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/7594.jpg

I've dropped in to see their progress, and the first stage of the box install was to gut that plastic piece out and line the underlying metal with 2 layers of Dynamat. The box itself is a fiberglass mould, and is fitted EXACTLY to the form of the area behind the back-left wheel well. In the end, it will stick up a bit more, but I will essentially be losing a negligible amount of space, especially when you compare that with what I used to have in the high-output (HO) box from JL:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/2682.jpg

[joec500]

What shop is doing your install, I live in the city as well, would love to check it out in person when you get it done! I would probably go for a lower end woofer.

[nadroj81]

you may feel it is the best equipment but it is not. They make subs that boom.

[B7A4Sport]

What shop is doing your install, I live in the city as well, would love to check it out in person when you get it done! I would probably go for a lower end woofer.

It's a spot called Rolling Thunder (http://www.rtaudio.com/) in San Rafael, CA up in Marin. I first went there in high school with my car at the time, and you couldn't wish for a better shop overall, from the quality to the customer treatment.

In going back now, it has been a good 6-7 years since then, and it definitely is a different shop now; the aftermarket car audio business has really taken a dive with how hard it is to change out a head unit and all that. I wasn't that pleased at first to be honest, because I felt like they were trying to steer me towards merely the most expensive option for the install. In fact, for a day or two I was of the mind I wasn't even going to do this and recommend them. However, they really made up for a couple customer-service mistakes they made, especially after I gave them the go-ahead on the custom install option.

I'd be happy to show you in-person, especially at one of the up-coming meets. For now, I'll post some good pics so everyone can get an idea.


you may feel it is the best equipment but it is not. They make subs that boom.

And for you, is this an attempt at a coherent thought? If by saying "they make subs that boom," you mean they make subs that rock your fuckin' skull, then I agree with you! Perhaps maybe suggest what you feel is best, and we'll see.....but if your response begins with a K and ends with an -icker, I'm gonna kick YOU.

[M Style S]

I have 2 12 inch pioneer premiers sitting in my garage waiting to be installed...But im only going to put one of them in my car and sell the other.

[Curt941]

I think what he was saying is yeah, they make subs that have alot of thump, but the sound quality might not be as good.

And there was a pretty good audi thread, i'll dig it up. A guy had a custom harness made for his stock headunit and was able to get a nice clean output signal that he could send to his amps, if I find it i'll post it. It was a great read.

[B7A4Sport]

I think what he was saying is yeah, they make subs that have alot of thump, but the sound quality might not be as good.

And there was a pretty good audi thread, i'll dig it up. A guy had a custom harness made for his stock headunit and was able to get a nice clean output signal that he could send to his amps, if I find it i'll post it. It was a great read.

First off, real quick, was that me? lol. I just did a similar post, and have been actively trying to help out others who either want that harness, or adaptors to be able to direct-wire an iPod or other MP3 player to the stock head unit as well.

That was my point in my 1st description of JL - that W7 puts out THE most quality, clean, crisp, on-time and yet loud bass I've ever heard, period. I've heard a LOT of setups, from Eclipse, to Alpine, to Pioneer, and I even used to have Fosgate; the Eclipse is really the only system I've heard that compares on an overall loudness-while-still-quality level. If I don't give anything away, most people think it's 2 subwoofers until I show 'em its one little 10! It can pound and hold those low bass tones, as well as kick those rock drum-hits, and all the while you can throw on some house or techno and it'll keep up with any beat you throw at it.

Altho, JL is now going away from bigger-is-better, and making a new line of extremely slim and sleath speakers. Really, if this guy is trying to slam JL from a sound-quality standpoint, that's all I really need to hear..........[race]

[bcramer]

Search for TJHUB. He did a very well done install using some real quality equipment. He also did it himself saving tons of money.

I feel bad for people who take their cars to shops to have them worked on for audio/video...it's really quite simple.


First off, real quick, was that me? lol. I just did a similar post, and have been actively trying to help out others who either want that harness, or adaptors to be able to direct-wire an iPod or other MP3 player to the stock head unit as well.

That was my point in my 1st description of JL - that W7 puts out THE most quality, clean, crisp, on-time and yet loud bass I've ever heard, period. I've heard a LOT of setups, from Eclipse, to Alpine, to Pioneer, and I even used to have Fosgate; the Eclipse is really the only system I've heard that compares on an overall loudness-while-still-quality level. If I don't give anything away, most people think it's 2 subwoofers until I show 'em its one little 10! It can pound and hold those low bass tones, as well as kick those rock drum-hits, and all the while you can throw on some house or techno and it'll keep up with any beat you throw at it.

Altho, JL is now going away from bigger-is-better, and making a new line of extremely slim and sleath speakers. Really, if this guy is trying to slam JL from a sound-quality standpoint, that's all I really need to hear..........[race]

I hope that you realize there is so much more to a quality install than the components being used. As the old saying goes, 10% equipment 90% install. People can take less than great equipment, install and tune it correctly and you would be amazed at the results. The most expensive gear does not mean the best gear.

While JL makes some quality stuff, it is by no means the highest quality in any facet of car audio. Whether your're talking about SPL or SQ JL just doesn't make the cut.

[Quattro]

Making custom enclosures is not as very simple, the average person will more than likely not be able to make a mold, fiberglass it hell even build it to spec for the sub. Making a sub box that will give you the highest amount of output is difficult to make. JL Audio subs require specific dimensions for their boxes with sufficient mdf(wood) thickness for the boxes. W7 have a very high output a cheap box will break EASY, trust me I know.

I am curious to see how they are making the box in your car, I have removed my side panels and although there is space, I think the sub will stick out a lot, but still maintaining trunk space, which I think you are aiming for?

Make sure they dynamat the spare tire place and the panels behind where the umm trunk pops up from. Rattling occurs very frequently around those places.


good luck on your install and post pics when its done, I am egar to see the end results. My sub takes up most of my trunk, I wanted to make a side panel box just no way a 12" or 13" will fit properly and have the output that the sub is suppose to give. I figured a 10" would have the same results...

[GEkido]

I think what he was saying is yeah, they make subs that have alot of thump, but the sound quality might not be as good.

And there was a pretty good audi thread, i'll dig it up. A guy had a custom harness made for his stock headunit and was able to get a nice clean output signal that he could send to his amps, if I find it i'll post it. It was a great read.

I agree with you on the subs not having a good sound quality but that's because people just do the install without actually having something to tone down the power the amp puts out. I never really considered upgrading the sound a "true mod" (well maybe when I do the RNS-E and interior speakers) but since you started the thread, here are some pics of what I had done. Nothing really major, just a MTX10 being powered by a RFamp. I had the level control put in the glove box. here a some pics.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b60/diabolicalplayerhater/Sub.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b60/diabolicalplayerhater/Level.jpg

[B7A4Sport]

Making custom enclosures is not as very simple, the average person will more than likely not be able to make a mold, fiberglass it hell even build it to spec for the sub.

Hey Bcramer, last time I checked I didn't have a mold of an A4's rear trunk section in my garage......and for the record, on my last car I DID do all of the install work myself with the same equipment going in to this project. Forgive me if I'm not to as eager to take my tool-lacking, fairly unexperienced hands to an A4's beautiful interior..........but don't sit here acting like anyone who considers getting stereo upgrades should also install 'em themselves, or like you know me and why I'm having a shop do it.....[headbang]

I perhaps got ahead of myself when I said JL is the best hands-down; I guess I assumed people would hold that to regular-market audio equipment. Sure, when you start talking about competition-level, there are higher output choices, but when it comes to classy, powerful, consumer-level bass, JL takes the cake for me. It's an opinion, we can both have our own.

[Sanjman]

Search for TJHUB. He did a very well done install using some real quality equipment. He also did it himself saving tons of money.

I feel bad for people who take their cars to shops to have them worked on for audio/video...it's really quite simple.



I hope that you realize there is so much more to a quality install than the components being used. As the old saying goes, 10% equipment 90% install. People can take less than great equipment, install and tune it correctly and you would be amazed at the results. The most expensive gear does not mean the best gear.

While JL makes some quality stuff, it is by no means the highest quality in any facet of car audio. Whether your're talking about SPL or SQ JL just doesn't make the cut.

i think the subject of this thread is more about subs than midrange/tweeters

[bcramer]

Hey Bcramer, last time I checked I didn't have a fiberglass mold press in my garage......and for the record, on my last car I DID do all of the install work myself with the same equipment going in to this project. Forgive me if I'm not to as eager to take my tool-lacking, fairly unexperienced hands to an A4's beautiful interior..........but don't sit here acting like anyone who considers getting stereo upgrades should also install 'em themselves.....[headbang]

Since when does anyone need a fiberglass mold press to make a custom enlcosure. Most people do it the old fashioned way, with MDF and laying the figerglass themselves.

That's good that you did the install yourself on your last car! You saved a bunch of money and most likely did a better job than most shops would do.

Also, I think that anyone with any sort of DIY spirit and a willingness to learn should do the car audio/video work themselves. As long as you heed the warnings that people give you and don't do anything you're not sure about you will be fine and learn a lot about your car.



i think the subject of this thread is more about subs than midrange/tweeters

He installed one of the DIYMA Reference 12s in a custom fiberglass enclosure in the exact spot the OP is having his installed.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173829&highlight=tjhub Scroll down and you will see pictures of his build.

[Quattro]

why did you quote me and address someone else? aiming that towards me??


I also think that car audio/video is not difficult, but not many people have the tools nor the belief in themselves to do such work. If you had an old school car, that would be easier, but a newer car not so much...thats what I think atleast

[channad]

I remember the old system in my Integra...3 JL 12w-6s...rockford fosgate, 900 watts RMS in the trunk...yikes! False floor, fibergalss enclosures built into the spare tire well. Damn that was awesome! Definitely pay to have a custom box built.

[Curt941]

TJHub is the guy i was thinking about who did a SQ install in his A4.

[M Style S]

Im sure most of you know this but dynomatting helps out a lot on the quality of the bass.

[B7A4Sport]

Oh not at all Quattro, I posted your quote to back up my thoughts that not everyone has the ability nor the means to do this level of custom work. You've had my back on this thread, don't think I didn't notice [:D]

I think when everyone sees the pics, you'll all understand why I didn't attempt this DIY style. Just as an update, spoke again with the folks at the shop and they're gonna for sure be done today! The whistles go w00000000

[Quattro]

=D cant wait to see it

hell i know electrical and rather have my buddy who installs do it all =D

[B7A4Sport]

So, I was just provided with a great reason to back up bcramer's mentality about installs............

Shop just called and said they need the car ONE more night to finish the bass gain knob install and grounding wiring. Thus, pics obviously won't be up 'till tomorrow, but they'll FOR SURE be there. This will make 6 days total of the car being worked on, OYE; at least I know they're doing it right, though.

Sorry, all, you'll have to join in my anxiousness until then, hah!

[bcramer]

So, I was just provided with a great reason to back up bcramer's mentality about installs............

Shop just called and said they need the car ONE more night to finish the bass gain knob install and grounding wiring. Thus, pics obviously won't be up 'till tomorrow, but they'll FOR SURE be there. This will make 6 days total of the car being worked on, OYE; at least I know they're doing it right, though.

Sorry, all, you'll have to join in my anxiousness until then, hah!

Haha, even when I do my own installs my car is sometimes out of commission for a few days at a time. I'm hoping that when I get the A4 this summer that is doesn't provide me with a lot of issues when it comes to doing the audio upgrade.

I'm excited to see your install and the work that the shop does.

You'll have to update us on how the w7 integrates with your front stage and rear fill if you use it.

[Sharkfin]

subscribed...cant wait to see it either! i really want to upgrade my system as well

[Lunar50]

JL equipment is solid. The amps are strong and provide plenty of power. That is all an amp needs to do. If the power supply is stable and the amp isn't straining then it's all good. The subs are rock solid and move plenty of air, no issue there. Speakers are always an argument. People just like different sounds and buy into the press about high end equipment. Theoretically better and actually hearing a difference are two different things.

Why do you say this "For the audio signal, it is always recommended that you merely tap in to the wiring for the stock sub, rather than either splicing it or re-running to get the signal directly from the head unit to the amp" ?

[B7A4Sport]

Why do you say this "For the audio signal, it is always recommended that you merely tap in to the wiring for the stock sub, rather than either splicing it or re-running to get the signal directly from the head unit to the amp" ?

My research has shown me that doing either option besides tapping off the wiring results in problems with the audio signal quality. Apparently, there's some component of the system's signal output that gets screwed up when you clip/sever the wiring to the stock subwoofer and try to use it for an aftermarket speaker.

I've also heard nightmare stories about going all the way up to the head-unit for the signal, but it seems some people are also able to do this successfully. My research was confirmed when I dropped the car off, and one of the workers brought up the very same method of tapping the wiring without my having to say anything. If it were up to me, the stock sub would be gone to give me a nice air passage to the cabin. They've done B7 A4's before though, so I have confidence in their judgement.

[Lunar50]

So are they catching the high level signals at the sub and feeding your sub amp?

[B7A4Sport]

So are they catching the high level signals at the sub and feeding your sub amp?

If I'm understanding your terminology correctly, no they won't be catching any high-level signals if you mean "the highs" that are meant for the speakers/tweeters. They are capturing the signal after the stock cross-overs/other sound processors tune it for bass output.


If by high level signal you mean high output, as in strong, then yes this is the ideal way to get the most powerful signal SPECIFICALLY when keeping the rest of the system stock.

If you went and gutted the whole thing and took out the Symphony head unit, I'm sure these requirements go out the window.

Pics will come today! [race]

[Zebman]

I tore my Scion apart, it was just like legos. I know my Audi won't be anything like it, but I am excited to do it myself nonetheless. Audio won't be for a year or two though.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/zebman/DSC01589.jpg

[Quattro]

you didnt remove your stock sub? I am sure the shop will remove it. I removed mine the same week i got the car haha

[Kid Red]

Just to chime in with my two cents (though not worth much) JL makes nice stuff, solid stuff, but because their stuff is so overpriced there are better options. I'm quite happy with my TC-Sounds sub(now audiopulse?) I'm going to install it into my new A4 and I'm hear searching for install tips. I have no idea the ideal location to run power. I assuming (hoping) that I can tap the stock rear amp for remote on and I have a David Navone LOC that I was going to use to tap from the rear OEM sub.

So if I tap the OEM sub and disconnect it I won't have input/sound? Or where is the ideal place (in the trunk ideally) to tap?

Does 4g power run along the door jams without issue? I hope the jams come off easily.

[Quattro]

kid red, I am running 0 gauge...pain in the ass running but works ok. I had 4 gauge no problem....

just be careful removing some of the side panels as the clips can break easy.

to tap, you can use the rear speakers for sub power...I didnt keep the stock amp....so I cant tell you if remote is there...I actually bypassed the stock amp to run my 2 other amps...

I wouldnt recommend running stock sub and aftermarket sub, you figure you will blow your stock sub and the bass would not sound the way you would want...but that is what I thought and removed the stock sub. Stock sub is decent for stock speakers not if you are going to run something better than stock. I say remove it!!!

[joec500]

would you mind sharing the approx cost and how long they kept your car for...Labor only...


thanks!

[B7A4Sport]

bump for my pics since I didnt see Joe's post

[4RingRook]

I really like it man! It's clean, and I like the protective grill. + for no real lost space. Makes me think about adding a sub again......

[cfujikawa]

room for a golf bag, a must [up] looks nice and clean!

[B7A4Sport]

room for a golf bag, a must [up] looks nice and clean!

Dude, how insane are the things we do for our game? [headbang] lol


Thanks for the props so far guys! I'll get more pics soon for sure.

[Rotond0000]

hahaa space!? WHO NEEDS IT!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g87/mpr4005/lapicturas153.jpg

lol seriosuly i love your setup tho...the W7 is greattt!!!!

enjoy![:D]

[Quattro]

^^agreed heheh

[Awulf]

W6 is made for operation w/less air space and has almost as good a sound, you could also use the new flat woofer but it only comes in 13inch for now. I am going to do my stereo have two JL amps sitting here, has anyone figured out how to run larger gauge wire to the door speakers, the wire pass through is a pin harness, would you drill a new hole and put in a gromit, or what?

[mbgt72]

I looked into doing exactly this mod, I have a 10" W7 and looked at the same position for mine. However it seemed that I just wasn't going to be able to get the 1.37 cubic feet roughly needed for the sub in that side compartment. Yes I know, I pulled off the whole side and was looking at this in the same way you had done. I'd really really be interested to see some more in depth pics of it all, especially the box and behind the side panel. Also just out of curiosity are you experiencing any rattle so far that I should go ahead and take care of?

I've spenty about the last 3 hours or so breaking my back lining my whole wheel well with tape and then a large garbage bag just to be sure and was going to start laying down the fiberglass tomorrow. I was looking into doing the sub in the part closest to the trunk side and due to space I'm going to have to angle it slightly and have it protrude up some. But I figure if I take my time and do it right, it shouldn't look bad as long as I build a new carpet piece that accommodates the sub, and had thought about maybe getting a little creative.

Also where did they put your satellite receiver, seeing as there is rarely much play in the cables provided by the oem setup.

As of now I've tapped into the sub powered signal and put a Hi-Lo converter and have a good RCA signal coming out and ran a pair of RCA's down for my amp to the wheel well.

I'm not stuck with my choice to do it in the wheel well, but I have already put in a fair bit of work. However, it's only a fraction of what's required for the whole project. Thanks for your time and I'm very interested to see how it's all set up.


Oh and btw, yes you can have too much air for this sub, I built my first box for a 10" W7 and had about .5 too much cubic feet (perfect amount for the 12" as it happened to be) and it caused my voice coil to unwind. I got it covered under warranty cause I go a lot of business with the shop I bought it at, but after I threw some wood blocks in to take up space, it worked perfect.

[Vito Roma]

Looks Grear

[nadroj81]

It's a spot called Rolling Thunder (http://www.rtaudio.com/) in San Rafael, CA up in Marin. I first went there in high school with my car at the time, and you couldn't wish for a better shop overall, from the quality to the customer treatment.

In going back now, it has been a good 6-7 years since then, and it definitely is a different shop now; the aftermarket car audio business has really taken a dive with how hard it is to change out a head unit and all that. I wasn't that pleased at first to be honest, because I felt like they were trying to steer me towards merely the most expensive option for the install. In fact, for a day or two I was of the mind I wasn't even going to do this and recommend them. However, they really made up for a couple customer-service mistakes they made, especially after I gave them the go-ahead on the custom install option.

I'd be happy to show you in-person, especially at one of the up-coming meets. For now, I'll post some good pics so everyone can get an idea.



And for you, is this an attempt at a coherent thought? If by saying "they make subs that boom," you mean they make subs that rock your fuckin' skull, then I agree with you! Perhaps maybe suggest what you feel is best, and we'll see.....but if your response begins with a K and ends with an -icker, I'm gonna kick YOU.

kicker, no way.

[B7A4Sport]

kicker, no way.


Hey, the Civic forums are this way:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/GTFO.jpg

[Rotond0000]

Roflrofl[>_<][>_<][>_<]

[slingblade]

I'd be concerned about the amp being mounted upside down and heat. Might only be a real issue if the amp is at its limits though ;) Check the owners manual to see if upside down mounting is not recomended

[cfujikawa]

dang, that trunk looks clean! they did a great job with that!

btw... titleist pro trajectory & scotty cameron FTW! [:d]

[bcramer]

Looks good! Very similar to TJHUB's install. [grin] They did a great job integrating it into your trunk without being invasive.

Can you get any pictures of the enclosure itself? I'm curious as to what they did for that.

[Erocko]

wow, that came out pretty sick. Good Job

[B7A4Sport]

Looks good! Very similar to TJHUB's install. [grin] They did a great job integrating it into your trunk without being invasive.

Can you get any pictures of the enclosure itself? I'm curious as to what they did for that.

As for the actual enclosure itself, I unfortunately wasn't able to get down to the shop before they installed it and see for myself, and thus I didn't get any pics. I can call the shop and ask them if they did any in-process photos; given the quality of this place, they just may have.

I am pretty sure (altho not positive) it's entirely fiberglass, molded to that entire section of the rear quarter-panel. It would surprise me if MDF was incorporated anywhere in the design because of the shape of the space, but I am pretty sure the baffle holding the subwoofer itself (the part carpeted in the lighter grey) is along those lines. Really, my goal was not to get a flashy install, but a stealth look that wouldn't compromise any space - as we can see from the pics, it was a pure success!

And on top of it all.......it actually sounds louder and MUCH cleaner than the JL High Output enclosure that JL sells w/ the W7; I had to ditch that box because there was NO way to fit it in the A4 trunk. It was flat-out too wide! Overall, I couldn't be happier.

[Tiesto]

Very nice. [up]

[B7A4Sport]

Bump - damn, threads are gettin' eaten up quick!

[joseb]

As for the actual enclosure itself, I unfortunately wasn't able to get down to the shop before they installed it and see for myself, and thus I didn't get any pics. I can call the shop and ask them if they did any in-process photos; given the quality of this place, they just may have.

I am pretty sure (altho not positive) it's entirely fiberglass, molded to that entire section of the rear quarter-panel. It would surprise me if MDF was incorporated anywhere in the design because of the shape of the space, but I am pretty sure the baffle holding the subwoofer itself (the part carpeted in the lighter grey) is along those lines. Really, my goal was not to get a flashy install, but a stealth look that wouldn't compromise any space - as we can see from the pics, it was a pure success!

And on top of it all.......it actually sounds louder and MUCH cleaner than the JL High Output enclosure that JL sells w/ the W7; I had to ditch that box because there was NO way to fit it in the A4 trunk. It was flat-out too wide! Overall, I couldn't be happier.


nice install! any update on the pictures from the shop? i'm curious to see how they worked that out, i'm headed to a local shop on Saturday and even a quick snap of your box would help!

[cyanidecologne]

I agree trunkspace is overrated


http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r215/cyanidecologne/A4Stock012.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r215/cyanidecologne/A4Stock011.jpg

[Kschroers1]

Why do i have a feeling thats just a sealed board and using the trunk as the sealed space? weird. . .

[bcramer]

I agree trunkspace is overrated


Is that a true IB setup you have firing into the rear seats? Or is there a secret enclosure behind it?

From that angle it looks like you may have done a nice job, however I will never understand why people fire subs into the rear seats like that...you have to have them down all the time.

[cyanidecologne]

Is that a true IB setup you have firing into the rear seats? Or is there a secret enclosure behind it?

From that angle it looks like you may have done a nice job, however I will never understand why people fire subs into the rear seats like that...you have to have them down all the time.

There is a fully sealed enclosure, i absolutely love the setup i have a concealed/ vented amp rack on the other side in the trunk. My buddies who built the box for me (since i was too lazy after all the time ive spent building boxes) did an absolutely phenomenal job its not even bolted down and hasnt budged at all in the year and a half ive had it in. Fits like a glove!

[Brent27]

I'd be concerned about the amp being mounted upside down and heat. Might only be a real issue if the amp is at its limits though ;) Check the owners manual to see if upside down mounting is not recomended

most amps have heat sinks on the top to help cool the amp...mounting upside down is stupid because it will cause your amp to run even hotter no matter how hard you push it, and possibly melt it.....

[CapstoneJHS]

most amps have heat sinks on the top to help cool the amp...mounting upside down is stupid because it will cause your amp to run even hotter no matter how hard you push it, and possibly melt it.....

If the amp has a fan passing air over the heat sink, then it doesn't matter which direction the amp is placed. If there's not a fan, then you are correct.

[cyanidecologne]

ill post pictures from the back for you soon buddy.



Why do i have a feeling thats just a sealed board and using the trunk as the sealed space? weird. . .

[B7A4Sport]

I had criticism of my amp mounting before in another thread, and would like to definitively put people at rest as to what "upside down" means.

Upside-down does not mean the way I mounted it so that the top face of the amp is pointed towards the floor. Upside down would be this orientation:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/ampupdown.jpg

If you think about it, heat will disipate out of either the bottom face or top face equally; what matters is the heat sinks are oriented above the rest of the hardware so it rises away, instead of thru the amp first.

And also, to cyanide, I mean no offense by what I'm about to say because everyone's budget and preference differs when it comes to car audio. While that setup may look cool, I could never consider doing such a thing w/ the equipment I have. From the looks of it, the back seats actually rest against the gaskets and dust caps of your woofers, is that correct?. I ask because my JL sub will literally throw out as much as an inch or two when its hitting a low bass tone; in fact, I rested by golf bag too close to it once, and it formed a small divot in the gasket from hitting against one of the parts of the bag. It literally might pop out thru the seats if I tried to mount my sub like you've done yours, lol!


Mainly, its impeding the amount of space they would have to throw, and I'd suspect from the looks of your setup, you listen loud most of the time. It looks like they would actually hit the back of the seat, which not only would defeat the sound quality, but over time it would cause actual damage to your woofers. When hitting hard, do the cones actually throw far enough to hit the back seat?
Still, very cool-looking setup and well done if it is sealed on the other side. I hope to see this thread stay alive, cuz I'm tired of looking at threads about tail-light tints or RS4 reps. [race]

[viziers]

To the OP,

I have as well just completed an install of a complete audio sytem from the Alpine 9887 Hu to Sundown 100.4 amp powering the Hertz HSK-165's component speakers for the front and a Sundown Audio SAZ-1000d amp to the Digital Designs 9510G sub 1500watts @1ohm [:D]


P.S. Main power and ground is 1/0 down to 4awg to the amps.

Any questions ill try to answer.

vizi

[Kschroers1]

Well this is what i had built on Friday last week and loving every minute of it, plus i still have my trunk space to throw luggage in and such. . .
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Kschroers1/IMG00012.jpg

[B7A4Sport]

Well this is what i had built on Friday last week and loving every minute of it, plus i still have my trunk space to throw luggage in and such. . .
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Kschroers1/IMG00012.jpg

Slick setup, definitely a nice space-saver and looks real nice!


The only reason I didn't go with a box like that is I'm a huge skier, and something like that would make it difficult to impossible to finagle my long-ass sticks thru the fold-down seats. I also didn't wanna have to remove the setup in order to do that, otherwise I woulda wanted something just like what you have! Nice work!


and btw.....Quattro in the snow ftw! Suck my gas mileage, SUV's! [race]

[swoardrider]

If you think about it, heat will disipate out of either the bottom face or top face equally; what matters is the heat sinks are oriented above the rest of the hardware so it rises away, instead of thru the amp first.

Not entirely true. Look at how your JL Slash amp is built inside. the circuit board is on the bottom of the inside of your amp with the transformers on top of the circuit board. !00% of the heat does not dissipate through the heat sinks. If you mount it upside down, a certain amount of heat will rise (now in the wrong direction) and basically run right back into the transformers and circuit board. The very thing you are trying to pull the heat away from!
Amps are basically built like chimneys. The path of smoke, or in an amps case heat, was designed to follow a specific path.
Read your owners manual. JL rates mounting their Slash series amps upside down as "fair". To me this means that it will work, but only time will tell. The only reason why its considered possible is that the heat sink is mounted on the end, causing "fair" cooling abilities.
If your running their D class, which doesn't generate as much heat, upside down might not be as bad. But I definitely wouldn't run their A/B class stuff that way. My Slash 300/4 in my Land Rover runs really hot after a few hours. Whereas my 250/1 doesn't get as hot.

Personally, I would never mount a fan-less amp upside down. Hence my Audi's choice was Zapco.

[B7A4Sport]

Not entirely true. Look at how your JL Slash amp is built inside. the circuit board is on the bottom of the inside of your amp with the transformers on top of the circuit board. !00% of the heat does not dissipate through the heat sinks. If you mount it upside down, a certain amount of heat will rise (now in the wrong direction) and basically run right back into the transformers and circuit board. The very thing you are trying to pull the heat away from!


I almost deleted that reply after I realized I was SORTA wrong, lol, but I'm not gonna cower from criticism, [:D]. However, I believe the way I have my amp "upside down" is not as detrimental to performance as the "upside down" orientation depicted in my image example.

One other obvious thing I realized, is the top face of a JL amp is nice, thin aluminum-like material, whereas the backside, which is facing up in my mount config., is made out of much thicker, heat-absorbing metal.

In the end, I trust this shop not to do something the amp couldn't handle, as they are very high-end and used to working on B7's specifically; the main laborer actually owns a B7 S4. I haven't had a chance to drive long enough to know if it's having any effects, but JL amps in general don't run very hot, especially with a sub/amp match as close as the 10W7 powered by a 500/1. On days I take the backroads to work, which is about an hour drive, I usually bump hard the entire way and never notice any problems. I've also had this same equipment since Christmas of 2002, so I'm feeling like I know how to use my stuff at least somewhat well, [;)].

Another thing to consider...right now, I have the signal gain on the amp turned all the way DOWN, in addition to my external bass knob also usually being turned way DOWN, and the bass at 0 in the Symphony settings. Despite all this, the sub is very loud, and I really only need to touch the external bass knob when I start cranking the overall volume. The amp is definitely not having to do much work to keep the bass loud, mostly because I can boost the signal so much w/ my portable Sirius player's volume as well. I'm gonna need to get a new head-unit and speakers soon, so I can easily integrate my other amp (a JL 300/4) and get back to the full-amp system I loved so much in high school and college! [:D]

Thanks for the tips, everyone [race]

[cyanidecologne]

I had criticism of my amp mounting before in another thread, and would like to definitively put people at rest as to what "upside down" means.

Upside-down does not mean the way I mounted it so that the top face of the amp is pointed towards the floor. Upside down would be this orientation:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll180/rnewton1984/ampupdown.jpg

If you think about it, heat will disipate out of either the bottom face or top face equally; what matters is the heat sinks are oriented above the rest of the hardware so it rises away, instead of thru the amp first.

And also, to cyanide, I mean no offense by what I'm about to say because everyone's budget and preference differs when it comes to car audio. While that setup may look cool, I could never consider doing such a thing w/ the equipment I have. From the looks of it, the back seats actually rest against the gaskets and dust caps of your woofers, is that correct?. I ask because my JL sub will literally throw out as much as an inch or two when its hitting a low bass tone; in fact, I rested by golf bag too close to it once, and it formed a small divot in the gasket from hitting against one of the parts of the bag. It literally might pop out thru the seats if I tried to mount my sub like you've done yours, lol!


Mainly, its impeding the amount of space they would have to throw, and I'd suspect from the looks of your setup, you listen loud most of the time. It looks like they would actually hit the back of the seat, which not only would defeat the sound quality, but over time it would cause actual damage to your woofers. When hitting hard, do the cones actually throw far enough to hit the back seat?
Still, very cool-looking setup and well done if it is sealed on the other side. I hope to see this thread stay alive, cuz I'm tired of looking at threads about tail-light tints or RS4 reps. [race]



They may appear to hit my seats but they in fact make no contact at all there is about a 3 inch space between my excursions and the back of my seats. And i agree with you im stoked there is something more going on here than "tail light tints and rs4 reps" haha.