View Full Version : DIY: B6 A4 1.8T - AMB Valve Cover Gasket

04-24-2008, 07:37 AM
Time Required: Aprox 1-1.5 Hr
Difficulty-4 out of 10

Youre going to need a
Socket wrench set
A long 10mm socket ( the ones that are like 1 inch long)
Flat head screw driver
Sealant (Try and find one called Reinzosil. It is specifically Audi Approoved)
screw clips to replace one time use clips
Gaskets (DUH)
Allen bits (Keys and driver bits help too but you can just use the keys)
Zip ties

I have an issue with people saying that this is just a couple nuts and thats it. ITS NOT, so this is why I put this together
This isnt HARD, you just need to be prepared. I have all the short cuts here though

Start off by taking off the audi engine cover. If you dont know how to do this, consider bringing your car to a professional

Now for reference, this is all the points where there are nuts for the valve cover (NOT the rails)
This is a pic of the sections where there are allen bolts and bolts on the rails that need to be removed. Also a brief section to show where the pipes disconnect

Now Disconnect the connection to the coil packs but leave the packs in. You dont want junk flying into the spark area. Also, disconnect the ground ontop of the valve cover while youre there. Cut the zip ties holding the coil cables to the Valve cover gasket and theres one near the PCV. Remove your snorkel for more room to move (two screws on the front of the car)

Now what you wanna do is start unscrewing all the points where I put numbers. Some are easy some are hard to get to. The one that was hardest in my opinion was actuallyt number 5 in the second pic. I didnt bother putting it back out of fear of dropping it.

Now this is the part where people had trouble. I hate those one time use clips and someone told me theyre not one time use clips but anyway I bought the new clips with the screws because theyre MUCH easier to deal with. Youll see in this pic its already replaced. If you see the color dots and match the color, youll see thats where I disconnected everything. Use my disconnection spots.
If you have trouble, use the flat head and gently push the hoses off. For the purple dot, DONT disconnect it from the bottom of the 90Deg bend. Do it from the top. Its hard to get leverage to yank it off. If you do it from the top you can use the flat head to pry a bit and it should yank with a bit of force .Pull everything to the side so that when you are ready to yank the VC off, everythings clear.

Now the PCV Section. Only two things you need to do. The red one needs to come off and the purple one. the bigger one is just a simple clamp that needs to be held open (ie with a wrench or get someone to hold the wrench) and then you just tug back on it.
Now, Take the coil packs out and put them in a safe place. You should be able to pull the Valve cover off. You might need to pry with the flat head driver a touch but it should not require much. If its not coming off, check out the pcv section. that fat hose gets in the way.
Remember. Youre lifting straight up. Dont lift from one side.

Now, clean off the inside of your VC once its off. Inspect your car for sludge. Take the old gaskets off (Just peel them off)
Clean the areas if theres any crap where the gasket sits. These are the areas I recommend for sealer. Theres a couple extra spots but I found it just helped me in the end. Use a sealer rated for atleast 300 degrees.
Put the gaskets in. Then just lift the spots where you need sealant and put it down. When you put the Valve cover back on,be CAREFUL that the gasket does not fall off where its supposed to sit. I cant stress this enough. So put the valve cover back on and inspect all around to make sure that the gasket is still where its supposed to be. Good. While youre putting the Valve cover on, I found it easier to slide on the fat PVC line onto the VC while putting it down onto the gasket. Now put the main VC nuts on finger tight all around. Then slowly start tightening a little at a time for each bolt, Make sure the gasket is still good to go. Eventually itll be firmly on.
On rectagular objects the proper way to torque down is to start in the middle alternating back and forth to the outer side to prevent bowing but just do it a little at a time basically
Then from there, just reconnect everything and use the pretty new clamps you got to make the job super clean. Zip tie the coilpack wires back up and youre good to go!

Wait about 3 hours before turning on the car so that the sealer works properly.