View Full Version : Dreaded Oil Pressure Light, Help!

05-04-2008, 01:56 PM
So I sold my car today, finally (guy is picking it up wednesday), and on my way home the oil pressure light comes on. FUCK. I shut the car off and pull over immediately. I check the oil and whatnot, looks fine. I hesitantly fire it back up and its fine, drive the rest of the way home. It was only a mile. Should I drive it til Wednesday and see if it comes back on? Should I try the old seafoam and change oil and hope for the best? Should I try to pull the impossible and get the pickup screen cleaned off by Wednesday? I'm stumped. I just don't want it to come back on while he's driving it the 1.5 hours home. What should I do?! [headbang]

05-04-2008, 02:11 PM
try running a sludge solvent flush example :AMSOIL
You would want the type you run instead of engine oil for 20 to 30 min @ a preset rpm 2000- 3000. Then flush with cheap oil run for 10 to 15 min @ same rpm and then fill w/ syn. you would need a 2 new audi filters 1 to run w/solvent and cheap oil then 1 for your syn. fill
But if your pickup is really clogged you should change it first. (usually if it is really clogged you can't run @ 3000rpm in neutral with out tripping the warning.
test your oil pressure to be sure
(follow directions w/ solvent flushes they are very strong and will eat your factory seals if left to sit in the engine)

05-04-2008, 02:16 PM
Is there any way to check the pressure using VAG-COM? I've searched about it but heard mixed answers. I'll take it for a ride and see if it trips the sensor.

05-04-2008, 02:39 PM
I wouldn't do that....try this: in your driveway in park or neutral idle the car. No lite-ok
now run it @ 2000...to 2500 for 30 sec.. no lite still then do the flush. I would try not to drive the car at all you may have sludge sediment in your pan. Drain your oil and filter it to check but then put a fresh audi filter on and follow the flush procedure written on your product of choice.

05-04-2008, 03:41 PM
Just tried it, no light. I'm thinking of doing the diesel overnight thing, but I'm kinda hesitant to fill my crankcase with diesel! Probly just use seafoam.

05-04-2008, 03:52 PM
I've never hear of either of those remedies fixing your concern but good luck!

05-04-2008, 05:01 PM
I've read of many people doing kerosene and or diesel in their crankcase overnight, draining it, putting shitty oil in to clean out the rest of the diesel thats leftover, then swapping it out for normal synthetic. Anyone else want to chime in?

05-04-2008, 05:24 PM
I've heard about that too with great results by every single person I know who's tried it.. not just with Audi's and it's supposedly a great method. I was thinking about giving it a shot, but after removing my valve cover and seeing how clean everything was, I decided to pass.

05-04-2008, 05:28 PM
I guess I'll see if the light comes back after run some seafoam thru the oil and put some fresh synthetic in. It seems like some people drive for quite awhile with the light on, while others drive for mere seconds and catastrophic disaster ensues. I really need to sell it on Wednesday, and hopefully it doesn't lose oil pressure on the guy's 1.5 hour ride home!!

05-04-2008, 07:21 PM
Just personal experience but mine does that at low rpms when hot frequently and when the rpms go back up the oil light stays off until the revs stay low for a few minutes. I've never had a problem but again-that's just me. It does usually happen if I'm a quart low, not typically right after an oil change.

05-04-2008, 10:38 PM
Mark, I would sort out the problem, (because there is one) before the car's sold.

I'm with Johnny on this one. I know you're asking for solutions, but you don't seem keen to accept any suggestions.

Still, it's your car. If I bought a car, and the oil pressure light came on 2 hours later, I'd be a tad upset...

05-05-2008, 12:13 PM
I am open to suggestions, and I thank everyone for their effort, however I searched about diesel and kerosene and he said he's never heard of doing that for sludge so I asked for someone else's input. Local Vdub guy said he would drop the oil pan for $120 and look to see if there's sludge, but I'd need it to be done and ready by Wednesday. Going to buy a new filter and some oil in a bit, but should I just get it checked out before I change it?

05-05-2008, 01:19 PM
I had the exact same problem as you, and there are only two reliable solutions to this.

A. Replace the oil sump on the bottom of the engine or clear the screen on your current one.


B. Find an oil desludge kit. I used one of my car (idle car for 15-20 minutes no revving with product in) and then flushed my engine 4 times with cheap oil. I idled the car 10 minutes before each flush. First time the gold colored oil I poured in it came out black, did that 3 times more, each time the oil coming out less and less black. Then put royal purple 20w 50 in. No more oil lights, no more valve chatter, no nothing. But I experienced a draw back, I had a nasty ominous smell coming from the turbo region for over a month, I guess it was all the sludge burning or ending up in the exhaust. The other thing was the product I used specifically said "not for use on turbocharged engines", didn't read that until after I used it. In any case, I had a pump ready to put in in case this treatment didn't work, but it did so hurrah.

05-05-2008, 04:59 PM
Ran some seafoam through the crankcase and changed the oil with Mobil1 0w-40 Fully synthetic. Idles perfect, no light. Going to take it for a short drive and see if the light comes on again.