View Full Version : engine head job!?!?!?!

02-05-2008, 01:02 PM
AS some of you may already know. I am working on my girls car, and took the engine head to replace the head gasket. Know i took it to a shop to resurface it and service it, well they told me that the valves are leaking like hell. They told me that for just labor is gonna cost me $140, does it sound right? is it something i can do myself? rating it from 1-10 how hard i to change valve seals? thanks

its a 2000 jetta 2.0 head.

02-05-2008, 01:49 PM
head work blows... i build motors but send out heads... its no fun

02-05-2008, 01:50 PM
i think the repair would be a valve grinding which would require some specialized tools. If it is a grind and you dont need any parts then the price is fair.

02-05-2008, 02:24 PM
the head has 125k miles, it is dirty as hell and is carbon build up all over the valves. uuuhhhgggg.

02-06-2008, 09:30 PM
140 is not that bad. it cost me 40 bucks just for a resurface on mine, but that is with the valves already removed from the head by myself. yeah if you don't have a spring compressor & lots of time to label each valve... just let them deal with it.

My schley valve spring compressor costed me like 100 bucks many years ago.... but paid itself back on all my valve lapping jobs, valve seal replacement, and the all important diy "port & polish". i'm doin a p&p on my aeb head and will post pictures of the carnage soon, stand by....

02-07-2008, 01:31 PM
i just got the head back from the machine shop. looks brand new. they did a complete service. they re-surfaced it and changed the valve stem seals.

now my problem is:

how do i get it on timing again.

i now that on the block cylinder one has to be all the way up, but i dont know about the head. can someone help me? thanks.

02-07-2008, 03:06 PM
im pretty sure the marks on the cams have to be set up before you put on the cam chain and tensioner and then the cam gear with the timing belt. Im not positive on where the marks have to match whether with eachother or on a mark on the head/block but some else with more experience can chime in.

02-07-2008, 11:43 PM
there is two timing marks on the cams. They should match up with the arrows when you turn the cam gear. The game gear also has a mark on it and a slot on the head it matches up to. Match up the marks to set the head to DTC. The crank pully should also have a small slit carved into it and the cover has an arrow. Match those up. Then install your belt so that all the arrows match up when you spin the crank. You may have to set the cam gear a bit ahead of the marker so when you pull the pin on the tensioner it pulls the gear back to the mark.

02-09-2008, 01:53 PM
got it!!! thanks. now, i started the engine and it sounds a little be like a diesel, and it was leaking a little bit of coolant/antifreeze through the head gasket, may be i thought i had not tighten the head bolts enough. so i took the valve cover off and re-tighten the bolts and they needed little more tightening. i still ahve not started it yet, i`ll let you all know later. thanks.

02-10-2008, 04:36 PM
The head bolts will have a specific pattern and torque spec. Gotta do those the right way.

02-10-2008, 04:54 PM
I belive its a thee step process
1) torque to 44 ft lbs
2) turn additional 90
3) turn additional 90

Each step is completely in a specific order. Start witht he middle two, then go in a chris cross pattern outwards. Kinda like this

10 3 1 5 7

8 6 2 4 9

02-11-2008, 07:03 AM
thanks!!!! i`ll try it out.

02-17-2008, 12:09 PM
Any updates on this? Curious to know if coolant and oil mixed in the coolant system and the oil pan...

02-17-2008, 12:18 PM
my focking dumb ass was using the same old head bolts, so thats probably why it was leacking coolant through one corner, i removed all the coolant and it was oil free, and oil has no coolant either, lucky me. My concern now is that it sounds like a godamn diesel motor. When i took it to the machine shop to have it resurfaced, new valve stem seals, and cleaned up, they told me that everything else was fine, no bent valves either. I am in the line of just buying a new head and ditch the current one. but the thing is that i already spent $140 on this one servicing it.
BTW- the funny thing is that the car is sold, too. And the person who bought it needs it asap. He is even helping me with this job. lol....i told him that after its done, it`ll be like brand new. It has new water pump, and timing belt. He already got a wheels and front grill for it.

02-17-2008, 01:11 PM
Have you checked for exhaust leaks on the header? Also, try doing a compression test.

02-17-2008, 04:56 PM
no exhaust leaks.

if the compression is off...do you think that could be the source of making the head sound like a diesel?

02-17-2008, 09:16 PM
no exhaust leaks.

if the compression is off...do you think that could be the source of making the head sound like a diesel?
Possibly. Just like if a coil goes bad on a 1.8t and it sounds like a diesel/WRX because of the misfiring.

02-17-2008, 09:42 PM
no, no. the sound it makes i can clearly hear the valves nocking. its not exhoust sound or anyhting like that.

02-17-2008, 09:43 PM
blinking CEL? Maybe you didn't hook up an injector connector?

02-17-2008, 10:37 PM
The valves hitting the pistons will make a loud metal tapping noise.
Definitely a lesson to be learned here: always make sure you turn the motor by hand before trying to crank it up to check timing.

02-17-2008, 10:59 PM
damn man, did you check your timing marks? If your cam gear and crank pulley marks line up then you should be ok...maybe the guy that worked the head didn't install the intake cam correctly.

02-18-2008, 11:39 AM
i turned it by hand and it wasnt hard at all, i mean when there was compression you needed to put more muscle in to it to turn it, but the motor didnt get stuck or did not stop turning when i was doing it by hand. so i say, ok everything is fine. There are no CEL blinking at all, only that focking noise. its getting out my nerves, its my third time pulling that piece of shit head off.

02-18-2008, 12:13 PM
damn man, did you check your timing marks? If your cam gear and crank pulley marks line up then you should be ok...maybe the guy that worked the head didn't install the intake cam correctly.

there u go, I bet your 1 tooth off, that could do it

02-18-2008, 12:39 PM
i`ll check into that again.

02-19-2008, 07:10 AM
here's a pic for clarity:

02-19-2008, 07:12 AM
check the marks again after you release the tensioner.

02-19-2008, 07:27 AM
check the marks again after you release the tensioner.

they shouldnt change if you have the required # of links between marks. (16 pins IIRC)

in the pic above i marked everything with a black sharpie because i dont trust myself counting to 16 :)

but i agree, check everything at least twice.

02-19-2008, 07:30 AM
hey guys, remember its a jetta 2.0 4 cyl 8 valve head, its not like ours. Its a singel cam. The tensioner doesn tension at all, like ours do, and its brand new, i think its just like that, what a piece of shit motor. This head doesnt have the timing chain either. just the timing belt runing the cam.

02-19-2008, 07:33 AM

02-19-2008, 07:35 AM
whats so funny.

02-20-2008, 09:39 AM
ok, i found the toque specs for installation of the head.
its a four step process which goes like this:

30;44;90 deg; 90 deg

it said 44 ft/lb

how do i do the four step? excuse me if i sound too ignorant, but AZ is the only place i get answers.

02-20-2008, 11:15 AM
My haynes manual lists it as a 3 step. You do the steps the same as i described. Follow the pattern I posted. Then change your torque wrench to the next step and repeat the pattern. Then go 90* in that pattern twice. Did you find out whats wrong with the head?

02-22-2008, 08:07 AM
^^^^^The shop said that nothing else was wrong with the head except the valve stem seals, which they replaced. no bent valves.
probable they installed the cam wrong or mybe i missed a tooth during installation. I will be installing everything again today with the procedures you showed me.

02-22-2008, 06:15 PM
Head is on, got a torque wrench and did the three step. I still have to install the intake manifold and the timing belt. Tomorrow should be done. I`ll keep updated.

02-22-2008, 07:30 PM
Since the head is a single cam, all you should have to do is align the mark on the head and the cam gear to get the head timing right.
The hardest part of doing the head bolts is that last 180º (or 2 90º turns if you're weak [:p] ) tighten on each bolt. If you don't do that 100%, the gasket will leak.
Also, after you get the cam gear and head timing marks aligned, make sure that the crank timing marks are aligned and that cylinder #1 (it's the cylinder closest to the timing belt) is at TDC when the marks are aligned. [up]

02-23-2008, 02:23 PM
ok, its been installed and running. No leaks (cross my fingers), went out for a test drive and it runs perfect now. Scanned the ECU and got a code:

p0321-intermitent, engine speed sensor G28.

02-23-2008, 02:44 PM
probably a loost connector or loose sensor. I think its near the back of the block.

Glad you got it figured out!

02-24-2008, 09:52 AM
Poopie, your the man. thanks alot. the car is running nice and smooth now. I even drove it from Tampa FL, to Orlando FL to see how it handle the trip, it went real good. I even thought that i was driving a brand new, off the lot, VW Jetta. lol

AZ FTW!!!!!!

even on different cars we can get help!!!!!