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Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 10:06 AM
started a new thread, the old one was getting cluttered

Parts list (as of now)

...will be ordering in a month or so:

-GT3076 (4-bolt flange, not Vband)
-034 mani
-need to make a custom DP
-MRC Tune
-Injectors (depending on what Mihnea wants to work with)
-S4 MAF
-LWFW
-SB Stage 5 clutch w/ sprung hub
-SCAT rods
-AEB crank
-Timing belt kit while Im at it
-Misc. items (gaskets, plugs, rings, bearings...)


What WG do you guys suggest, and what pugs?

feel free to add what Im missing, I just threw this together, Im sure I didnt get everything off the top of my head


also:

and this was suggested...what are your thoughts on this idea?

id lower the compression ratio at this level as well, to 9:1 or lower... and why not go 83mm and to 1.9L at the same time?

Poopie
01-15-2008, 10:12 AM
boring out to 1.9L is pricey with the machine work but that .1L will help with spool. Tial 44mm wastegate should be good on that set up. What are your HP goals? I considered this turbo when I was shopping around but I found that it just has terrible spool up. I was looking at the 1.8t forums on the vortex and there was a graph of a gt3071r vs gt3076r and at 4.5k the gt3071r was making about 100whp more then the gt3076 and peaked just about the same HP.

bassed
01-15-2008, 10:35 AM
3071, 8:5:1 compression, 034 TUBULAR MANI!! TIAL 38mm with 034 mani IIRC. Motor Mounts, Tranny Mounts, Suspension, Brakes, CA's and TRE's, DIFF Mounts and bushings, Wide Band, EBC............more I'm sure but others can chime in.

LOTS AND LOTS of $$$ for all the just in case and unforseens!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mike-2ptzero
01-15-2008, 10:41 AM
If you aren't going to run cams and some head work your better off with the 71r since the 76r isn't going to give you anything extra.


BTW was that the 034 log or tube manifold? Was your choice because of price or design?

xr4tic
01-15-2008, 10:52 AM
8.5:1 CR might be a little low, but I guess it depends on what kind of motor you are building. A higher CR will help you spool better and give better off-boost response, but at the expense of max boost

Why are you going with the 4-bolt flange instead of a V-band?

What's your HP goal? you want big numbers over a short RPM range, or a wider range at the expense of big #'s?

If you want big HP, lower the compression, 9.0 or 8.5:1, and get the 3076 with the ported shroud.
If you want a wider power range, consider the 3071, with maybe a 9:1 CR

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 11:47 AM
Why are you going with the 4-bolt flange instead of a V-band?

because of the amount of heat and vibration, it was suggested to me and makes sense


What's your HP goal? you want big numbers over a short RPM range, or a wider range at the expense of big #'s?

If you want big HP, lower the compression, 9.0 or 8.5:1, and get the 3076 with the ported shroud.
If you want a wider power range, consider the 3071, with maybe a 9:1 CR

I plan on going 2.0L in a year or two, so I was planning around that, but at the same time, I could just swap the 71 to a 76 when the time comes correct? I wanted to go with the 76 due to the price similarity and the amount of power it can produce with the correct setup, but at this time, I have the correct setup for a 71...so I guess I have to think about it.


If you aren't going to run cams and some head work your better off with the 71r since the 76r isn't going to give you anything extra.

I will do cams in the future, but not right now, and I might do an AEB head, but again, not right now



BTW was that the 034 log or tube manifold? Was your choice because of price or design?

going for the tubular mani

chris164935
01-15-2008, 12:05 PM
because of the amount of heat and vibration, it was suggested to me and makes sense.
Huh? I would assume the heat and vibration would rattle the bolts off before loosening a V-band clamp. Not to mention, you don't have to use a gasket with V-band.
Also, any reason why you aren't going to go with the 034 matching downpipe?

As for going to 83mm pistons, it cost me roughly $500 to clean the block, have the engine bored/honed, the bores aligned, and the rotating assembly balanced. If price isn't really a thing for you for this build, I would suggest doing it. Will also help when you go to the bigger crank to get to 2L displacement.

And, as others have asked, what are your power goals? Another turbo option would be a 35R as it is close to the same price as the 3071R and 3076R turbos.

xr4tic
01-15-2008, 12:16 PM
Who told you that on the V-band? What's the reasoning? It's not like a 4-bolt flange is more flexible than a V-band, if you're concerned about vibrations, put a flex pipe on the DP.

As for boring the block out, think of it this way, for the extra $500 or so to clean/prep/bore your block, you will have an easy 5% power increase accross the entire rev range, faster spool, etc, etc.

Also keep in mind, that if you want to go to a 2.0 crank later, you will need new pistons again.

If you are set on doing a 2.0 eventually, maybe you are better off just keeping the block stock, and building another block on the side as a 2.0, and drop it in later.

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 12:31 PM
Also, any reason why you aren't going to go with the 034 matching downpipe?


I want to keep my Milltek exhaust so I am going to have to do a custom DP, the 1/4 inch from a 2.75" Milltek isnt going to be worth the $$ to do a 3" exhaust, unless I sell the milltek and go with a custom 3"...maybe I'll do that.



As for going to 83mm pistons, it cost me roughly $500 to clean the block, have the engine bored/honed, the bores aligned, and the rotating assembly balanced. If price isn't really a thing for you for this build, I would suggest doing it. Will also help when you go to the bigger crank to get to 2L displacement.

And, as others have asked, what are your power goals? Another turbo option would be a 35R as it is close to the same price as the 3071R and 3076R turbos.

where did you get you engine bored for $500???? if I could do it for that cheap, why not go 2.0L? I'll have to price some shops around here, but I dont want to keep doing $500 more here and there, that gets rediculous.

onemoremile
01-15-2008, 12:58 PM
Engine builders around here want 400-600 to strip and rebuild a V8. We've got a lot less ring fitting and only half as many rod bearings to check. For the money you get balanced and blueprinted assembly with a hot tanked and magnafluxed block. They even check the pistons before honing the cylinders to a specific clearance size.

AudiA4_20T
01-15-2008, 01:07 PM
I want to keep my Milltek exhaust so I am going to have to do a custom DP, the 1/4 inch from a 2.75" Milltek isnt going to be worth the $$ to do a 3" exhaust, unless I sell the milltek and go with a custom 3"...maybe I'll do that.



where did you get you engine bored for $500???? if I could do it for that cheap, why not go 2.0L? I'll have to price some shops around here, but I dont want to keep doing $500 more here and there, that gets rediculous.

Im getting my engine bored/honed/hot tanked/ and the whole assembly balanced for like $350

chris164935
01-15-2008, 01:26 PM
I want to keep my Milltek exhaust so I am going to have to do a custom DP, the 1/4 inch from a 2.75" Milltek isnt going to be worth the $$ to do a 3" exhaust, unless I sell the milltek and go with a custom 3"...maybe I'll do that.



where did you get you engine bored for $500???? if I could do it for that cheap, why not go 2.0L? I'll have to price some shops around here, but I dont want to keep doing $500 more here and there, that gets rediculous.
Pretty sure that you can only get the 3076R's with a 3" discharge anyway (so, V-band or 4-bolt, you will need a reducer to use the 2.75" exhaust). So, you could just do custom 3" exhaust from the 034 downpipe and just use the 3" Borla muffler (like $150) that they sell on their web site. I use that muffler and it sounds awesome.

I had it done at a local machine shop here in Florida. The most expensive part was the balancing of the rotating assembly and doing the bore alignment. Now that I think about it, you should probably just hold off until you get the bigger crank to bore the block out as the alignments might be different.

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 01:51 PM
I'll check some shops around here and see what they want. If I were to go 2.0L right now what else would I be looking at for parts? Im assuming it would entail MUCH more than I am ready for as far as costs go.

xr4tic
01-15-2008, 01:58 PM
but I dont want to keep doing $500 more here and there, that gets rediculous.

lol, that's where it all starts!

But if it comes down to spending $1500 for 2.0 crank/pistons/hone now, versus paying $1000 for pistons/hone, then paying another $1000 for pistons/crank in the future, plus the costs of gaskets/bearings/etc, what would you rather do?

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 02:02 PM
well Im not paying anything for a hone now, I going to stay 1.8L (as of now...[rolleyes]) and spend #350 on rods...so its more like $1500 vs. $350

317ssayzarc
01-15-2008, 02:02 PM
ask mike hood about the vbands, he has had them leak on the turbine outlet... id reccomend them everywhere else BUT there

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 02:08 PM
^no gasket here and no leak on mine. if they mate correctly and you tighten the clamp enough, i see no reason why it should leak..

but there are gaskets you can get just incase yours is a little warped.

bassed
01-15-2008, 02:22 PM
but I dont want to keep doing $500 more here and there, that gets rediculous.


You're screwed[up] get ready to pony up and pony up and pony up. this is not a APR kit you're going to end up dropping alot of unexpected $$$$$ till you get it where you want or quasi reliable.


^no gasket here and no leak on mine. if they mate correctly and you tighten the clamp enough, i see no reason why it should leak..

but there are gaskets you can get just incase yours is a little warped.

Gaskets FTML!

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 03:36 PM
so is the consensus Vband or 4-bolt flange???

Mike, chime in on your experience

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 03:38 PM
so is the consensus Vband or 4-bolt flange???



i love my V-band..

and the 3 different times i've had to take my turbo off in the last year, you can guess why

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 03:39 PM
Calling Quattro16!!!

what was the outcome of your 034 mani???

Don Supreme
01-15-2008, 03:51 PM
Vband FTW!

bassed
01-15-2008, 04:21 PM
vband FtW

Kronic Budz
01-15-2008, 04:29 PM
getting a little geeky now guys. :)

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 04:29 PM
Calling Quattro16!!!

what was the outcome of your 034 mani???

not to answer for him or anything. it's just that you might want to PM him to get his attention..


but last i heard, he's sent his manifold back for the 5th time now..

i'll let you make your own conclusions about 034

bassed
01-15-2008, 04:55 PM
not to answer for him or anything. it's just that you might want to PM him to get his attention..


but last i heard, he's sent his manifold back for the 5th time now..

i'll let you make your own conclusions about 034


I've been told a different number by a couple other people and it's less than half of 5. He is also the only person to date who's had any issues. Javad, Nate, Dan, Christian and even Lou are all very helpful, quick to resolve any issues and are all 100% and I would and will not stop dealing with 034 ever. I have used them extensively for my build and all products used with the exception of a few Stern mounts.

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 05:00 PM
O RLY?


Still issues with 034 header and dp. Everything was just sent back for um um the 5th time. Javad guarantees it will fit when I get it back. Also sent them my muffler and they will finish up the rest of the 3 inch exhaust. Let you all know how it goes.

killa
01-15-2008, 05:05 PM
ask mike hood about the vbands, he has had them leak on the turbine outlet... id reccomend them everywhere else BUT there

You should run a stainless V-band in order to have a better seal.
A gasket would help a ton.

bassed
01-15-2008, 05:07 PM
O RLY?

R'ly if I told you I Dyno'd with 400whp would you believe me with out proof? No so don't take everything posted as bible. Every shop has complications and I'm sure 034 is no different, but by no means are they a bad company to deal and they make TOP NOTCH products.

317ssayzarc
01-15-2008, 05:08 PM
You should run a stainless V-band in order to have a better seal.
A gasket would help a ton.

could be that mikes dp has no flex pipe... he does run soild mounts though... idk, just pointing some variables out [up]

Poopie
01-15-2008, 05:10 PM
you wish you dynoed 400whp!

I hope my set up is good for 400whp...if not I'll be very sad.

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 05:11 PM
R'ly if I told you I Dyno'd with 400whp would you believe me with out proof? No so don't take everything posted as bible. Every shop has complications and I'm sure 034 is no different, but by no means are they a bad company to deal and they make TOP NOTCH products.

hey, if you work for 034, that's cool [:p]

like ^ he said, im just pointing out some variables

bassed
01-15-2008, 05:20 PM
you wish you dynoed 400whp!

I hope my set up is good for 400whp...if not I'll be very sad.

You missed my point. I didn't and I'm not claiming I did. I have proof of my numbers if I am asked to show them (not great but I have a wickedly cracked manifold::) I'm not the one with 1 original post showing a manifold not lining up properly and clearing, then claiming of returning it 5 times.

:) I know with the new mani I will be getting and with either the 3071 or 3076 I will be 400whp[up] and so will you!!!!!!!

bassed
01-15-2008, 05:24 PM
hey, if you work for 034, that's cool [:p]

like ^ he said, im just pointing out some variables

There are always variables and hurdles with heavy modification. My list is huge and slowly it has been reduced. I don't work for 034, but have met the crew years ago and have been using their products ever since. I had no issues with them, granted I did not have them make me a custom manifold YET, but may be very soon unless I go "Full Race" for obvious reasons.

sean1.8t
01-15-2008, 05:24 PM
You missed my point. I didn't I'm not claiming and I have proof of my numbers. Not 1 original post showing a manifold not lining up properly and clearing, then claims of returning an item 5 times.



wait, are you trying to say that you've never seen any pictures of his manifold/downpipe not lining up?

bassed
01-15-2008, 05:28 PM
wait, are you trying to say that you've never seen any pictures of his manifold/downpipe not lining up?

I've only seen 1 thread about it. If there are more and it has indeed been returned 5 times, my apologies and I will humbly admit my error.

quattro16
01-15-2008, 06:50 PM
4 times. Finally took everything off the car and sent it all back, dp, header, and wastegate. They just got it all yesterday. Javad has been working with me to make everything right. I am positive when I get it back it will all fit along with the rest of the 3 inch exhaust now : ) Mind you all 7 day ground shipping for one way with at least 1 week to fix then send back. East coast to west coast. You do the math!

Poopie
01-15-2008, 06:53 PM
dude I would just take it in stride. Building up turbo set up is never easy. You got to expect the unexpected and spend twice as much money. It will put a smile on your face when you are done. Thats all the matters

317ssayzarc
01-15-2008, 06:59 PM
<<< this idiot is 20k+ deep and loving it still [up]

Euro-Tuner
01-15-2008, 07:04 PM
^ does that include the car?!

A4Rob
01-15-2008, 07:12 PM
20K wowzers

317ssayzarc
01-15-2008, 07:14 PM
^ does that include the car?!

no...

quattro16
01-15-2008, 07:14 PM
I hope that includes labor.

317ssayzarc
01-15-2008, 07:19 PM
I hope that includes labor.

no...


building a COMPLETE car requires much more money than just all out power...

lets try and stay on topic....

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 10:01 AM
I just talked to southbend and they suggested the 20 lbs steel smfw as opposde to the 9 lbs lwfw due to the clutch chatter (which I dont really care about) and the low clutch life, which makes sense. SO im gonna call a few people and see what other info I can get, but what do you guys think?

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 10:10 AM
never had ANY chatter with my fidanza aluminum flywheel [up]

mike-2ptzero
01-16-2008, 10:25 AM
never had ANY chatter with my fidanza aluminum flywheel [up]

Thats because the flywheel isn't spinning.[;)]


BTW I talked to Racetec, they have the dominator fmic setup that should work perfect for you. 2.75" core and it should have 2.5" pipes. He had another call so I am just waiting for him to call me back.

See I told you I wasn't ignoring you.[:p]

A4Rollin
01-16-2008, 11:01 AM
hey crazyass what clutch are you running the fidanza with. I had that flywheel on a previous A4 and it sucked! It chattered like crazy decelerating and didnt feel right coming out of 1st gear. It had to of been the clutch i was running with but cant remember what brand it was.... it was several years ago

TQMB5
01-16-2008, 12:22 PM
20k in just interior, at least tell me you have ballin brakes,suspension and wheels at least in that?

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 01:15 PM
I havent heard of many people getting chatter to be honest, also, I think Im gonna go with the Lightweight, why not just go for the gold?

mike-2ptzero
01-16-2008, 01:28 PM
The really light flywheels only help if the car is used for road racing. It will cause the car to be harder to get going from a stop and allow the rpms to drop much faster. The 18 lbs flywheel is pretty much smack in the middle and seems to work the best for a DD and for drag racing. The lighter the flywheel the more sound it allows thru it which is why most people here the chatter. If you go with a LWFW always make sure your putting on a "sprung" kisk, well unless your into racing and need to run a unsprung disk.

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 02:01 PM
Thats because the flywheel isn't spinning.[;)]


BTW I talked to Racetec, they have the dominator fmic setup that should work perfect for you. 2.75" core and it should have 2.5" pipes. He had another call so I am just waiting for him to call me back.

See I told you I wasn't ignoring you.[:p]

oh fucking hell yes! thank you mike [;)]

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 02:02 PM
hey crazyass what clutch are you running the fidanza with. I had that flywheel on a previous A4 and it sucked! It chattered like crazy decelerating and didnt feel right coming out of 1st gear. It had to of been the clutch i was running with but cant remember what brand it was.... it was several years ago

had a spec stage 3 on my last setup, i totally destroyed it prior to my tear down bc i felt like it... heres the carnage pics

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/CIMG0985.jpg

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 02:04 PM
20k in just interior, at least tell me you have ballin brakes,suspension and wheels at least in that?

no ballin wheels for me [down] i like the oem plus look [up]

im more go than show, no doubt about it... full brakes, full suspension, full powertrain... i road race, i dont drag... that why mike is going to drive my car a waterfest, RIGHT MIKE?

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 02:04 PM
the sprung hub is needed with any single mass flywheel, lightweight aluminum or the steel

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 02:05 PM
The really light flywheels only help if the car is used for road racing. It will cause the car to be harder to get going from a stop and allow the rpms to drop much faster. The 18 lbs flywheel is pretty much smack in the middle and seems to work the best for a DD and for drag racing. The lighter the flywheel the more sound it allows thru it which is why most people here the chatter. If you go with a LWFW always make sure your putting on a "sprung" disk, well unless your into racing and need to run a unsprung disk.

thats the ticket, no lie [up]

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 02:07 PM
had a spec stage 3 on my last setup, i totally destroyed it prior to my tear down bc i felt like it... heres the carnage pics

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/CIMG0985.jpg

being SPEC it must have been easy to tare it apart...I have a SB stg III right now and it still has a TON of life to it so Im gonna sell it and not destroy it.

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 02:08 PM
being SPEC it must have been easy to tare it apart...I have a SB stg III right now and it still has a TON of life to it so Im gonna sell it and not destroy it.

redline dumps on smooth clean pavement will do it... spec or not [:D]

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 02:14 PM
update
right now its looking like:
-Full-Race manifold
-3071
-SCATs
-44mm WG
-SB stg5 w/ either 20lbs or 9 lbs flywheel
-S4 MAF
-I'll probably to a VBand on the turbo, I just need the DP to be made well so it wont leak
and I still havent gotten word back from Mihnea, wating to see what he wants to do on injectors and other specifics

everything else is still up in the air as far as where Im getting my DP made, what Im doing with my intercooler,

salz2135
01-16-2008, 03:40 PM
what is the inside diameter of the s4 MAF and what tune calls for this?

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 04:47 PM
update
right now its looking like:
-Full-Race manifold
-3071
-SCATs
-44mm WG
-SB stg5 w/ either 20lbs or 9 lbs flywheel
-S4 MAF
-I'll probably to a VBand on the turbo, I just need the DP to be made well so it wont leak
and I still havent gotten word back from Mihnea, wating to see what he wants to do on injectors and other specifics

everything else is still up in the air as far as where Im getting my DP made, what Im doing with my intercooler,


two things... 1) dude, if your going FR, just get their dp lol 2)why the decision on the turbine v band?

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 04:52 PM
what is the inside diameter of the s4 MAF and what tune calls for this?

its a 3.5" MAF [up]

mike-2ptzero
01-16-2008, 05:10 PM
the sprung hub is needed with any single mass flywheel, lightweight aluminum or the steel

Well you can run a unsprung but it should only be done on a track only car.


im more go than show, no doubt about it... full brakes, full suspension, full powertrain... i road race, i dont drag... that why mike is going to drive my car a waterfest, RIGHT MIKE?

Yes, even if I have to ride a bus to get there. [;)]

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 05:20 PM
Well you can run a unsprung but it should only be done on a track only car.



Yes, even if I have to ride a bus to get there. [;)]

take your lear jet [rolleyes]

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 05:20 PM
two things... 1) dude, if your going FR, just get their dp lol 2)why the decision on the turbine v band?

1) I am keeping my milltek exhaust and will need to mate to that down pipe. I was thinking about mating that to my exhaust but why spend $250 more to replace the existing DP?

2) still up in the air, but Vband seems easier to deal with...

Poopie
01-16-2008, 05:29 PM
i think full race makes the dp so it mates up just like stock.

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 05:37 PM
i think full race makes the dp so it mates up just like stock.

ding ding ding!!!! correct!

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 07:39 PM
Thats good, I was assuming it wouldnt do that, so would it match up to my milltek?cuz Im pretty sure its different than the stock flange in that location woulnt it be?

I feel like a newb not having researched these parts you guys know about., but thats what we're all here for right?

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 07:47 PM
yup ill help you... you cut the bolt flange off the end off you miltek, weld on the vband, and clamp the FR dp to the miltek cb

Euro-Tuner
01-16-2008, 07:49 PM
now we're talking! add that to my list of shit to spend way too much money on...I'll take it

317ssayzarc
01-16-2008, 07:52 PM
now we're talking! add that to my list of shit to spend way too much money on...I'll take it

trust me, i feel ya... im broke lol

let me know if you need anything [;)]

Poopie
01-16-2008, 10:11 PM
I think full race will even weld on the 3 bolt flange for you on the down pipe

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 05:39 AM
^^ I'll have to contact them today and see what they can do for me, my milltek is a slip-on from the DP back so it may be tricky


trust me, i feel ya... im broke lol

let me know if you need anything [;)]

thanks man, I appreciate all the help I can get with this set-up, a couple things have come up already that I wasnt expecting, but with plenty of help this is all going very smoothly

mike-2ptzero
01-17-2008, 06:22 AM
^^ I'll have to contact them today and see what they can do for me, my milltek is a slip-on from the DP back so it may be tricky



thanks man, I appreciate all the help I can get with this set-up, a couple things have come up already that I wasnt expecting, but with plenty of help this is all going very smoothly



Well even if it is a slip fit you could just have a small section that has a vband on one end and just the pipe on the other so that your exhaust can slip onto it. But I would suggest doing a small section pipe with v/bands on both sides and putting a vband on your milltek. That could be a good time to put a dump on that small section of pipe between the dp and exhaust so you can always run open exhaust. Any exhaust shop could do most of that work for you.

Here is a picture of the section I have after my FR down pipe which has a dump outlet.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/2716cut_out_01.jpg


The FR down pipe should already have the flex on it and a vband just after that. Mine has been changed since FR did it way back in 2003. Picture of it way back then at their shop with a HFC I already had added on the end, and still use the picture on their site.

http://shop.dthaus.com/images/12001840275691728554246.jpeg

TQMB5
01-17-2008, 08:13 AM
hey here is a half ass list of when i did my build,
rods-300
clutch/flywheel-1104
motor mounts/100
rings-120
gaskets-90
rod bearings-50
oil pump-140
coolant-50
oil-50
sealant-12
head bolts-40
ebc-250
couple oil filters, you need to change your oil after driving for a couple hundred miles first time.

also if you need any pics through your build pm me, i have a ton on my computer from when i did it.

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 09:14 AM
^^ That'll help a lot, where did you get you bearings?

I've heard a couple say that I'll need to change the oil pump, is that just good to do while Im at it, or is it going to be neccessary, b/c I was also told I could do this w/out replacing it.

TQMB5
01-17-2008, 09:19 AM
you definitely want to replace it, they are known to fail after 100k and to replace it, you would need to raise the engine, take off the oil pan and then replace it. it will definitely be worth your money to do it know. I believe i bought my bearings from ecstuning.com

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 09:22 AM
Think my ATW crank will hold up ok? been thinking about going forged AEB, I might just do that...what are your thoughts?

317ssayzarc
01-17-2008, 09:39 AM
Think my ATW crank will hold up ok? been thinking about going forged AEB, I might just do that...what are your thoughts?

well let me put it this way... the vw guys run cast cranks, and no one has broken one yet... [;)]

TQMB5
01-17-2008, 11:29 AM
well i was under the impression that atw and aeb ran the same crank since we have the complete same bottom end, but i guess i could be wrong, my advice is dont was your money.

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 11:29 AM
the weight is the same on the AEB vs ATW right? if so the only advantage is the forged-ness, and it sounds like that doesnt really matter

TQMB5
01-17-2008, 11:32 AM
i thought it was a myth that the aeb crank was forged.... i swear there used to be a thread about this on one of the fourums that i roam but i cant remember. Either way i wouldnt worry about it or better yet waste your money on it, buy a wide band or EBC instead. also are you even planing on taking out the crank or are you just putting in new rods, cleaning up the pistons, honing the cylinders, re-ringing and calling it good. i would do that and try not to get to carried away or your budget will soon be that of 317's haha

mike-2ptzero
01-17-2008, 11:55 AM
Here is the info you are looking for, posted by Daft.


I did some searching and the fact on the crankshaft is that all A4 cars have a forged crank. Here's the history:

1996 - 2000: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings
2001: Forged Crankshaft with 5 main bearings
2002 - 2004: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings

TQMB5
01-17-2008, 12:25 PM
exactly opposite of what i said, but it still proves my point that the aeb and atw have the same crank haha

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 12:44 PM
i thought it was a myth that the aeb crank was forged.... i swear there used to be a thread about this on one of the fourums that i roam but i cant remember. Either way i wouldnt worry about it or better yet waste your money on it, buy a wide band or EBC instead. also are you even planing on taking out the crank or are you just putting in new rods, cleaning up the pistons, honing the cylinders, re-ringing and calling it good. i would do that and try not to get to carried away or your budget will soon be that of 317's haha

I plan on leaving the crank in as long as I dont change it...which it seems like I dont need to. What process whould I take in cleaning the pistons? I will be re-ringing them and honing the cyilnders along with new rods and bearings

317ssayzarc
01-17-2008, 01:57 PM
I plan on leaving the crank in as long as I dont change it...which it seems like I dont need to. What process whould I take in cleaning the pistons? I will be re-ringing them and honing the cyilnders along with new rods and bearings

PLEASE measure your skirt to wall clearence... i was going to throw in rods and call it a day until i measured and got .004" clearence... so just check in case [;)]

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 02:03 PM
ok, I'll be sure to do that, what are the tolerance numbers? should I just measure with a micrometer?

rodhleloup@yaho
01-17-2008, 02:31 PM
Is it worth it to get the coated main bearings? such as those that 034 has...

onemoremile
01-17-2008, 06:16 PM
Main bearings are only if you remove the crank. Same goes for thrust bearings. I wouldn't remove it unless you suspect something is wrong with it or if you are going to sustain high revs like road courses or drag racing. If you're just doing rods then you'll need rod bearings, rings, gaskets, and whatnot. You will have to pull the oil pan off which puts the oil pump right there in front of you.

The rod swap can be done with the engine still in the car. That's how I did it. It is easier to do it on an engine stand like TQMB5 did but then you have to get it in and out of the car. If you have to do a clutch at the same time and are looking for long term reliability then pull the engine and drop the money on a professional builder hot tanking the bare block and reassembling it with a full balance and blueprint.

My thought was to do the basic rod swap and bolt on a 3071 system with V-bands and full 3" exhaust. Then build up a 2.0 or 2.1 with all the little tricks and a built head. Then swap that in along with a fresh clutch, lighter flywheel, and maybe a 3076 or 35R. This way I can get used to the 3071 and rebuild the brakes and suspension around it before making the big bump. Other than the current clutch nothing really gets wasted. The old turbo, built block, and whatnot would make for a nice classifieds listing. [:D]

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 06:48 PM
My thought was to do the basic rod swap and bolt on a 3071 system with V-bands and full 3" exhaust. Then build up a 2.0 or 2.1 with all the little tricks and a built head. Then swap that in along with a fresh clutch, lighter flywheel, and maybe a 3076 or 35R. This way I can get used to the 3071 and rebuild the brakes and suspension around it before making the big bump. Other than the current clutch nothing really gets wasted. The old turbo, built block, and whatnot would make for a nice classifieds listing. [:D]

my thoughts EXACTLY..great minds think ailke!

xr4tic
01-17-2008, 08:20 PM
Just an FYI, my 97 AEB crank was CAST.

Todays cast cranks are much better than they were years ago, and you don't hear about crank failures all that often.

I wouldn't bother swapping the crank unless you were going to put a 2.0 crank in.

onemoremile
01-17-2008, 08:26 PM
I plan on leaving the crank in as long as I dont change it...which it seems like I dont need to. What process whould I take in cleaning the pistons? I will be re-ringing them and honing the cyilnders along with new rods and bearings

Oil Eater and Scotchbrite pads. Simple Green or Dawn dish detergent will also work well. Break the old rings and use the end to clean out the grooves. A cheap pack of stiff bristled toothbrushes helps too.

From this:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2886.jpg

To this:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2900.jpghttp://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2910.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2924.jpg

The oil pump can be replaced in the car but the subframe has to be lowered and the engine raised. This has to be done to remove the pan but not as much as for the pump.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2882.jpg

Toyotatech
01-17-2008, 08:42 PM
Main bearings are only if you remove the crank.

Although I have not worked on a 1.8t lower end, main bearings can be replaced without removing the crank.

317ssayzarc
01-17-2008, 08:56 PM
Although I have not worked on a 1.8t lower end, main bearings can be replaced without removing the crank.

dude? wtf, how [confused] [rolleyes]

Toyotatech
01-17-2008, 09:02 PM
On Toyotas I have used one bearing to push the other out. It's the same motion but since you can't physically push it out with your fingers the new bearing will work (with assembly lube). I would imagine a 1.8t would be the same.

317ssayzarc
01-17-2008, 09:09 PM
On Toyotas I have used one bearing to push the other out. It's the same motion but since you can't physically push it out with your fingers the new bearing will work (with assembly lube). I would imagine a 1.8t would be the same.

well you really arent supposed to have ANY lube on the outer diameter of the bearings for one... an you have to line up the oil holes so the bearings can get some oil... so i would REALLY not reccommend doing this man [down]

Toyotatech
01-17-2008, 09:23 PM
When I said using assembly lube I was refering to the crank side so as not to scar the crank. If you get the edges of the bearing flush with the block so that it sits flush up against the bearing on the main cap when the cap is installed the hole would line up, there is only 1 correct position for the 2 bearings in each main. As I said I have done this with Toyotas and not 1.8t's but the principle is the same.

Toyotatech
01-17-2008, 09:34 PM
I should also say you must turn the crank at the same time why pushing the new bearing in. I would have never tryed it had there not been an old timer showing me how.

Euro-Tuner
01-17-2008, 10:15 PM
wow, your pistons cleaned up real nice.

I asked before but I think ut got lost in the shuffle:


ok, I'll be sure to do that, what are the tolerance numbers? should I just measure with a micrometer?

...so far I stripped out the old turbo, and am in the process of pulling the head off...gonna be a fun weekend

317ssayzarc
01-18-2008, 05:36 AM
you mic the piston skirts 1/3 way up the skirt... then you take a dial indicator and measue the bore...

onemoremile
01-18-2008, 06:49 AM
Don't touch the crank or main bearings unless you're going to do the whole job right. That includes front and rear main seals, all new bearings and thrust washer, etc..

Euro-Tuner
01-18-2008, 08:37 AM
I do not plan on touching the crank with the information that I have gotten, I'll do the rod bearings and thats it. The oil pump sounds like a PITA, but I guess I'd better do it now. should I do motor mounts, or is it not neccessary, i.e. if I dont do them while I have everything torn down, will it be just as easy to do later, or will I have to do this process all over again?

mike-2ptzero
01-18-2008, 08:50 AM
I do not plan on touching the crank with the information that I have gotten, I'll do the rod bearings and thats it. The oil pump sounds like a PITA, but I guess I'd better do it now. should I do motor mounts, or is it not neccessary, i.e. if I dont do them while I have everything torn down, will it be just as easy to do later, or will I have to do this process all over again?



It isn't hard to change out the engine mounts even with the motor in the car. But if you have it out now you might as well change the motor mounts since they are out now anyway.

TQMB5
01-18-2008, 08:55 AM
the oil pump is a piece of cake with the engine on the stand, and personally i would replace the mounts but thats up to you

317ssayzarc
01-18-2008, 09:28 AM
I do not plan on touching the crank with the information that I have gotten, I'll do the rod bearings and thats it. The oil pump sounds like a PITA, but I guess I'd better do it now. should I do motor mounts, or is it not neccessary, i.e. if I dont do them while I have everything torn down, will it be just as easy to do later, or will I have to do this process all over again?

id do the mounts now... its SOOOO easy... let me know if you want some [;)]

Poopie
01-18-2008, 09:31 AM
Mounts are cake. I think my rs4 mounts are still ok.

Tranny mount needs to be upgraded though. From what i'm hearing too I will leak the crank be. I will replace the rear main seal though.

onemoremile
01-18-2008, 12:38 PM
In the oil pump pic you can see the motor mounts hanging there. Each are one nut away from being swapped out. After dropping the engine back down on the new mounts you should leave the jack in place and do both trans mounts. DTS is also easy at this time.

Euro-Tuner
01-18-2008, 12:48 PM
how can you tell when your mounts are gone? is it real obvious?

onemoremile
01-18-2008, 01:08 PM
They look like they are leaking raspberry jam.

The stock mounts are soft enough for a 150hp engine. Tripling the power means you'll mash one mount and stretch the other and strain the downpipe, trans, transmounts, and your shifting won't be as precise. Upgraded power demands upgraded drivetrain mounts.

Wizard-of-OD
01-18-2008, 03:38 PM
"1996 - 2000: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings
2001: Forged Crankshaft with 5 main bearings
2002 - 2004: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings"

What? if its a 4 cylinder crank it has 5 main caps and requires 10 half bearings....there is no math involved there.


On Toyotas I have used one bearing to push the other out. It's the same motion but since you can't physically push it out with your fingers the new bearing will work (with assembly lube). I would imagine a 1.8t would be the same.
I have worked on Toyota's all my life and its the same as any other engine...removing bearings without the crank is just plain jane dumb and makes you a hack
sorry...

317ssayzarc
01-18-2008, 03:53 PM
I have worked on Toyota's all my life and its the same as any other engine...removing bearings without the crank is just plain jane dumb and makes you a hack
sorry...

i wasnt going to say it, but ill agree 100% with issam on that one... its just stupid [headbang]

Toyotatech
01-18-2008, 06:52 PM
"1996 - 2000: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings
2001: Forged Crankshaft with 5 main bearings
2002 - 2004: Forged crankshaft with 4 main bearings"

What? if its a 4 cylinder crank it has 5 main caps and requires 10 half bearings....there is no math involved there.


I have worked on Toyota's all my life and its the same as any other engine...removing bearings without the crank is just plain jane dumb and makes you a hack
sorry...

I know you don't work for a dealership, but what do you think warranty is paying for? I know who you are and believe what you do and have done are extraordinary, so don't take me as disrespectful. Dealerships pay to get the job done so if I'm told by the 23 year master tech lead to and how to do something I listen. I only wish I had the freedom to do what you do. So if I am a hack because I work for your local dealer so be it.

chris164935
01-19-2008, 10:30 AM
Never heard of anyone having problems with an oil pump going bad... Anyone have some examples of this?
Also, I don't think you can use an AEB crank as the oil pumps in those motors were driven by an intermediate shaft, not a gear on the crank. But, maybe you can press the oil pump gear onto an AEB crank? I don't know, but it sounds like a waste of time though.

Poopie
01-19-2008, 10:37 AM
its just that the pumps usually get clogged

AudiA4_20T
01-19-2008, 10:42 AM
Don't touch the crank or main bearings unless you're going to do the whole job right. That includes front and rear main seals, all new bearings and thrust washer, etc..

Tell me about it [headbang]

mike-2ptzero
01-19-2008, 12:00 PM
Never heard of anyone having problems with an oil pump going bad... Anyone have some examples of this?
Also, I don't think you can use an AEB crank as the oil pumps in those motors were driven by an intermediate shaft, not a gear on the crank. But, maybe you can press the oil pump gear onto an AEB crank? I don't know, but it sounds like a waste of time though.

That would be true for your 01, but he has a 00 which is a ATW which still has the exact same oil pump setup as the AEB. Basicly the bottom end of the 2 are exactly the same, only difference was the head since the AEB had the big ports and the ATW had small ports.


Dont make us ask to put you 01's on your own forum.[;)]

maxspeed
01-19-2008, 01:39 PM
had a spec stage 3 on my last setup, i totally destroyed it prior to my tear down bc i felt like it... heres the carnage pics

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/crazyass713/CIMG0985.jpg


that dosent look half as bad as the spec stage II+ i pulled off my car

Euro-Tuner
01-19-2008, 07:58 PM
Questions:

-would you guys recommend the Gerrett core? w/ custom piping
-what plugs would you recommend with this set-up?
-where should I look for a good S4 MAF? $ealership is gonna be mad money!
-would a DTS reduce the likelyhood of failling tranny mounts?

TIA guys

Poopie
01-19-2008, 08:24 PM
I would get a spearco core
the bosch f6DTC have been awesome for me. I noticed after a long easy cruise they get a bit fouled up. Romp on it a few times and they burn clean again. Must be the wrong temp range for me but they haven't misfired on me at high rpm for a few weeks now.
Classifieds or bug people that just went to a stage 3+ set up on their s4
DTS is nice, but for the msot bang for the buck the stern or 034 mounts are a better first purchase

317ssayzarc
01-19-2008, 09:31 PM
hows the parts collecting stage going?

the ER intercooler is my suggestion... great fit, awesome capability and superb fit and finish...

stealthy black ftw!

Euro-Tuner
01-20-2008, 08:09 AM
the parts collecting is going slowly...kinda looking to buy everything at once, I'm getting everything in order to buy in bulk, a lot of the parts will take a couple weeks to custom make. Im going to start pulling the head tonight and get ready to do the rods first.

317ssayzarc
01-20-2008, 09:00 AM
good deal [up]

Don Supreme
01-20-2008, 09:14 AM
How about the new 034/boost factory intercooler kit? Have you looked into that?

mike-2ptzero
01-20-2008, 09:23 AM
How about the new 034/boost factory intercooler kit? Have you looked into that?



Link?

317ssayzarc
01-20-2008, 10:33 AM
How about the new 034/boost factory intercooler kit? Have you looked into that?

[eek] .. [confused]

Don Supreme
01-20-2008, 10:44 AM
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3551132

500hp max claim.

mike-2ptzero
01-20-2008, 10:59 AM
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3551132

500hp max claim.

Yeah they have that on their site, it is a ATP FMIC that is used and they claim it as a 600hp core. The only thing I see missing is mounting brackets since it uses a universal fmic.


http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Intercoolers/ATP-INT-003450.jpg
600HP Garrett high density/high efficiency bar and plate intercooler with ATP cast end tanks. 24" Wide - 10.5" Tall - 3.0" Thickness. 2.5" inlet and outlet hose connections.

quattro16
01-20-2008, 11:44 AM
3 inch core + ac condensor = 4 hours of cutting, 8 cutoff wheels and a mess.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1009.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1013.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1012.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1010.jpg

317ssayzarc
01-20-2008, 11:58 AM
3 inch core + ac condensor = 4 hours of cutting, 8 cutoff wheels and a mess.

ER ftw!

AudiRacerS4
01-20-2008, 12:09 PM
3 inch core + ac condensor = 4 hours of cutting, 8 cutoff wheels and a mess.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1009.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1013.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1012.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee94/quattro123/IMG_1010.jpg

and finally we can all see that a 3'' core does not fit behind an S4 bumper without trimming let alone a stock A4 bumper...[;)]

AudiRacerS4
01-20-2008, 12:10 PM
ER ftw!

no bumper ftw..haha well until i get it back from the body shop [:D]

mike-2ptzero
01-20-2008, 03:11 PM
Using cut off wheels is a huge waste of time. Just rent or buy a sawzall and cut everything in less then 30 minutes and only using 1 blade. Also using a core that is no taller then 11" tall works best when used with the S4 bumper, 12" is too tall.


Here is my custom ER fmic using a 24x10.5x3.5 Garrett core behind my S4 bumper.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/2716grills-s.jpg

Euro-Tuner
01-20-2008, 06:39 PM
looks good. Mike YGPM.

Almost got the head off, I need the special tool. when I remove/drop the subframe to do the rods are there any precautions I need to take as far as supporting the motor go? I have yet to mess with the sub fram, so I dont know if I can just drop it without dieing

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 05:38 AM
anyone?...bueller....bueller....bueller

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 07:29 AM
looks good. Mike YGPM.

Almost got the head off, I need the special tool. when I remove/drop the subframe to do the rods are there any precautions I need to take as far as supporting the motor go? I have yet to mess with the sub fram, so I dont know if I can just drop it without dieing


I would support the tranny and maybe the front cross over bar where the snub mount is at if you dont have a cherry picker. I think onemoremile posted pics of how he supported the engine/trans when he pulled his subframe to pull the pan off.


If you need the head bolt tool you can order one directly from purems for $32.95 (http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=2105) if you cant find someone near you that you can borrow it from.

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 07:44 AM
onemoremile YGPM

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 11:55 AM
update

...possibly going 2.0L on a 3076...just need to look into parts and other expenses

onemoremile
01-21-2008, 12:21 PM
Here are those pics. This is just a simple rod swap. The oil pump is only held in by two long screws so it is an easy job to swap it out. Super easy on an engine stand.

if you've ever wondered where your dipstick went.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2897.jpghttp://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2893.jpg

the oil pump
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2882.jpg

non-skid shelf liner around a piece of 2x4. Keeps the hardened steel end of the jack stand away from the transmission case. Also makes for added stability.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/onemoremile/IMG_2879.jpg

onemoremile
01-21-2008, 12:38 PM
The new 034 intercooler looks pretty nice. Anyone seen any pics of the ER B5 intercooler?

The Spearco Wave core is also very nice but I haven't seen anyone run one of those on an A4. Anyone know more about these things?

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 12:49 PM
The new 034 intercooler looks pretty nice. Anyone seen any pics of the ER B5 intercooler?

The Spearco Wave core is also very nice but I haven't seen anyone run one of those on an A4. Anyone know more about these things?

ER comp FMIC kit on a B5
http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/gallery/B5A4CompetitionFMIC/custom_462_B5A4CompFMIC1.JPG

http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/gallery/B5A4CompetitionFMIC/custom_468_DSC07721.JPG

I am trying to put a group together for the ER fmic, I already have 3 people on the list and with a few more people the price might get better. If your interested please let me know. I can also get Racetec and the 034 fmic setups.

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 12:52 PM
ok, do I have to go ABA crank on a 2.0L??

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 12:55 PM
ok, do I have to go ABA crank on a 2.0L??

Yes.

ABA + 83mm bore = 2.0 liter
ATW/AEB + 83mm bore = 1.9 liter

Nebone
01-21-2008, 01:20 PM
Clint has the AEG crank for sale for a 2.0 setup. Does that fit the ATW?

And why does the 2001 have 5 main bearing where all the other cranks before 2001 and after have 4? Is this true?

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 01:36 PM
^^ I believe so, the AEG I think is only good for the 2001, correct me if Im wrong.

with the ABA does the crank pulley and flywheel all bolt up the same?

Nebone
01-21-2008, 01:38 PM
So Clint has an AWM motor like the 2001 since he is using an AEG crank? I think early 2002 models had AWM like the 2001-2001.5

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 01:44 PM
questions:
-what are the wrist pins size on JE pistons?
-are 144mm, 20mm wrist pin scats the correct setup?
-what rod bearing would I buy?

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 01:49 PM
^^ I believe so, the AEG I think is only good for the 2001, correct me if Im wrong.

with the ABA does the crank pulley and flywheel all bolt up the same?

That is correct, the 2001+ guys use the AEG crank to go 2 liter, while the pre 2001 guys use the ABA.

Nebone
01-21-2008, 01:50 PM
2001 has 5 main bearing and 2002-2004 has 4 from the information in this thread. How does this make the AEG crank work for all these?

317ssayzarc
01-21-2008, 03:05 PM
2001 has 5 main bearing and 2002-2004 has 4 from the information in this thread. How does this make the AEG crank work for all these?

058 blocks (external waterpump, im shaft, ect) use ABA crank

06A blocks (internal waterpump, knock sensors, ect) use AEG crank

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 04:53 PM
questions:
-what are the wrist pins size on JE pistons?
-are 144mm, 20mm wrist pin scats the correct setup?
-what rod bearing would I buy?



You order the correct JE pistons for your setup. Most places are going to sell you normal JE pistons for the 1.8 crank, JE does happen to sell special pistons made for the 1.8t block to be used with a 2 liter crank but you need to make sure you deal with a shop that knows exactly what they are ordering.

Yes 144, 20mm wrist pin scatts will work. It is the piston that is modifed to work with the 2 liter crank in a 1.8 block.

You really wont know exactly what bearings you will need till you have the crank and rods in your hands, unless you buy the whole setup from the same shop which can then spec the bearings for you.


When getting to this point it is not wise to cut corners to save a few bucks.

317ssayzarc
01-21-2008, 05:20 PM
The new 034 intercooler looks pretty nice. Anyone seen any pics of the ER B5 intercooler?

The Spearco Wave core is also very nice but I haven't seen anyone run one of those on an A4. Anyone know more about these things?

jump on the ER while you can... the price will prob never be this low again

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 06:10 PM
what HP is the ER good/tested to??

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 06:40 PM
what compression ratio do you guys suggest on my JE pistons?

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 07:01 PM
what HP is the ER good/tested to??

It uses a 20"x11"x3" Garrett core which is rated by Garrett as a 600hp core.


what compression ratio do you guys suggest on my JE pistons?

Depends on what type of boost levels you plan on running. If you do plan on going pushing it to 30psi I say go 8.5:1, that is what I run in my car.

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 07:24 PM
same for around 25psi? thats what Im planning

mike-2ptzero
01-21-2008, 07:40 PM
same for around 25psi? thats what Im planning

For 25psi you can go either 8.5:1 or 9.0:1, but with the 8.5:1 you can run way more adv timing all the time. Plus it will give you the room to run 30psi at a safer level when you push it to that level.

317ssayzarc
01-21-2008, 07:55 PM
For 25psi you can go either 8.5:1 or 9.0:1, but with the 8.5:1 you can run way more adv timing all the time. Plus it will give you the room to run 30psi at a safer level when you push it to that level.

9:1 or 8.5:1 [up]

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 07:56 PM
I have high compression as it is so im gonna go with the 8.5:1 if needed, I could always do a head spacer as well. but this should be fine

317ssayzarc
01-21-2008, 07:58 PM
I have high compression as it is so im gonna go with the 8.5:1 if needed, I could always do a head spacer as well. but this should be fine

head spacer = no no...

the 1.8t has quench pads and using a spacer negates that effect...

Euro-Tuner
01-21-2008, 08:38 PM
good to know.

mike-2ptzero
01-22-2008, 07:41 AM
I have high compression as it is so im gonna go with the 8.5:1 if needed, I could always do a head spacer as well. but this should be fine

Believe me you wont need anything lower the 8.5:1, I run that in my car pushing 32psi, 22+ degs of timing at full boost on 110 octane, making 600whp and with just a stock OEM head gasket. The 8.5:1 is what you want if you plan on having a pump gas tune running 20-25psi, the 9:1 would mean running way too little of timing or having to run way less boost.

onemoremile
01-22-2008, 12:58 PM
jump on the ER while you can... the price will prob never be this low again

No kidding? [;)]

mike-2ptzero
01-22-2008, 02:26 PM
No kidding? [;)]

Yes, so much that I am not even allowed to post the price and once I place the order it will most likely never be this low.[:D]

Nebone
07-29-2008, 01:46 PM
So how did the engine handle the Waterfest miles? Build looked mint in person.

Wizard-of-OD
07-29-2008, 02:01 PM
I didnt see it.Why didnt you come by the 034 booth?

mike-2ptzero
07-29-2008, 02:44 PM
I didn't get to see the car either and I kept asking if the car was at Waterfest.