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View Full Version : Car runs for a sec and dies....need help quick!!!



tunerb5
12-26-2007, 06:47 AM
So I started my car this morning and it ran for a few secs and then just died. Now all it does is crank but won't start. Sounds kinda like it just stopped getting fuel but my ECS fuel preassure gauge still shows around 30 psi. What could this be? Fuel pump?

offroader1006
12-26-2007, 07:58 AM
do you have a VAG COM?

if so try and get some codes.

fuel is just one part of the equation.

tunerb5
12-26-2007, 08:43 AM
now I can't find my vagcom cable.....

I just hope it's not the Timing belt. I looked under the cover and everything seems intact, but you never know.

jaustin
12-26-2007, 09:02 AM
bad sensor someplace?

solowb5
12-26-2007, 09:13 AM
Crank sensor

GURUMAN
12-26-2007, 09:15 AM
Probably your key, maybe you need to reprogram your keys.

creechsa4
12-26-2007, 09:22 AM
did you pull any coil packs & check for spark? i usually use a long screwdriver to touch the contact on the pack & put the coil pack down near a ground and have a helper crank the car. hopefully it's just a icm. i see from your sig you're a 99. those icm's.............

tunerb5
12-26-2007, 01:18 PM
I know it's not the coilpacks or the icm. I've already replaced the icm twice. If it were to go bad it would just missfire but still run. Same goes for the coilpacks.

What are the symptoms of the crank possition sensor going bad? And how hard it it to replace?

tunerb5
12-26-2007, 01:26 PM
from what I'm reading it could either the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor. How do I know which one it is?

Poopie
12-26-2007, 01:30 PM
super easy to replace. It would throw a code if the sensor was bad. Just lift the timing belt cover off and its 2 10mm bolts holding it near the intake cam.

creechsa4
12-26-2007, 01:40 PM
crank sensor is in the back of the block below the oil filter. not too bad to replace just those little 4 or 5 mm allens holding it in. can get to it with a wobbler or u joint.

solowb5
12-26-2007, 03:11 PM
Actually it is held in with a 10mm bolt that also has a hex in it. It is only one bolt. You will need vice grips to pull it out bc it's in there tight. If it were you cam position sensor I'm pretty sure your car would still run.

creechsa4
12-26-2007, 03:29 PM
yup solow your right just checked my block, cause i'm rebuilding it. it's 1 bolt holding it, 5mm allen size bolt.

Toyotatech
12-26-2007, 04:59 PM
Could be a MAF problem. Try starting it with the MAF unplugged.

SoFresh
12-26-2007, 05:06 PM
Probably your key, maybe you need to reprogram your keys.

hahaha, ignore this... this will have nothing to do with anything. Reprograming a key remote has nothing to do this a car starting and dying [rolleyes]

solowb5
12-26-2007, 05:19 PM
And you can only unplug the MAF and the car will run if you are 00+

Poopie
12-26-2007, 05:20 PM
hahaha, ignore this... this will have nothing to do with anything. Reprograming a key remote has nothing to do this a car starting and dying [rolleyes]

yes on a4s we don't have immobilizers. Hes just confused cause he has a A4 with an s4 motor swap and you need the immobilizer keys.

xr4tic
12-26-2007, 05:25 PM
if either your crank or cam sensor is bad, VAG-COM will tell you. You can either throw money at it, replacing random parts, or VAG it to know for sure.

SoFresh
12-26-2007, 05:31 PM
yes on a4s we don't have immobilizers. Hes just confused cause he has a A4 with an s4 motor swap and you need the immobilizer keys.

Ahhh, makes more sense, lol

tunerb5
12-26-2007, 07:41 PM
I know it's not the key.....lol

I pretty much know this car inside out, and I've looked and found both sensors and they look easy to replace. I will vag the car as soon as I find my damn cable to know for sure. I also have a new maf sitting around so i guess I can try that approach as well. The car sounds like it want to start but just doesn't.

xr4tic
12-27-2007, 01:00 AM
it might be worth lining up the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley, and make sure they are still aligned. Jumped timing is a possibility.

I doubt the MAF is the issue, it would at least start/sputter.

If you crank it over, does your tach register the RPM? (It's been a while since I started my A4, so I'm not sure if it's supposed to or not)

solowb5
12-27-2007, 09:02 AM
If you skipped teeth that much to where your car won't start you would have fucked up more things so that didn't happen. My money is on your crank sensor and you can get them new for like 40 bucks on ebay.

tunerb5
12-31-2007, 09:30 AM
after sitting around for a few days I finally found the vagcom cable and pulled the codes......and got NOTHING!!!

I guess it's time to tear some things apart and see.

tunerb5
01-03-2008, 10:32 AM
Now I think that it may be a deal ecu, and here's where the problem comes in. I have a PC16 chipped ecu so I can't just swap a stock one in a go. When the ecu goes, can the chip be reused? Or is it the chip that goes bad in the ecu?

Blake260
01-03-2008, 12:43 PM
did you check your intercooler pipes? if you can keep it running by giving it gas, it may be a huge boost leak.

tunerb5
01-03-2008, 01:54 PM
an a4 will run even with an open throttle body, it will run shitty, but it will idle.

I pilled the plugs and they were drained in gas so I know that I'm not getting spark.

If it were a crank position or cam position sensor it would have thrown a code.

I've never heard of ECMs going bad completely, I've replaced 2 in my life and both just had one or two missfiering cylinders.

The only thing I can think of now is the ecu.

Does anyone have a spare nDBW ecu I can borrow to check?

AudiSport12
01-03-2008, 04:00 PM
Its your car kicking you in the ass for thinking about selling it.