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View Full Version : New lock pump, still no locks?!??!?



thebikedoctor33
11-19-2007, 12:23 PM
Well i got ahold of a new central lock pump, exact number match, almost new, looks great. I swap out the old one, and nothing at all worked, not even the alarm that worked before. It wouldnt recognize the new pump at all. The I took the actual suction pump out of the new unit and put it in the old one. Plugged that in, the alarm worked again, however the locks still didnt work. When i took off the two hoses, it seemed like there was a small amount of suction, but i could be wrong. So i put it all back together and tried the new one again, and nothing. What is going on?????

and i reprogrammed my key fob. still nothing....

AAQSC
11-19-2007, 01:10 PM
Curious on this too. I am looking to replace my central locking pump as well.

thebikedoctor33
11-19-2007, 01:30 PM
You probably won't have this problem. Everyone else, its just, throw the new one in there, reprogram your keys and youre good to go... but then again, its a b5, so you really never know...

Anybody else????

thebikedoctor33
11-19-2007, 01:44 PM
So i'm guessing I have a leak in the lines. I reprogrammed my key right and now the alarms work again. But still no locks. Anyone have any good way of cheaking for leaks, where to start and how to fix it? This pisses me off so much that i paid for a new pump and it didnt make a difference. I took the old one apart and the wheel in the pump had shattered, so i guess it isnt a total waste. But still....

mike-2ptzero
11-19-2007, 04:54 PM
When you lock or unlock the car do you hear the pump running for a long time? If you want to check for leaks the best place to start would be where the lines come out of the doors. The line on the rear doors plugs in right at the door jam on the body side, just slide the boot toward the door and you will see the plug. On the front doors the line from the door plugs in on the inside of the car and plugs in just under the kick panels.

thebikedoctor33
11-19-2007, 07:03 PM
yeah, the pump goes for like 20 or 30 seconds. i opened all the doors and listened and didnt hear anything. its going to be a bitch to find it. i'll try looking under the boots in the door jams. thanks.

mike-2ptzero
11-19-2007, 10:21 PM
yeah, the pump goes for like 20 or 30 seconds. i opened all the doors and listened and didnt hear anything. its going to be a bitch to find it. i'll try looking under the boots in the door jams. thanks.

Yeah if it is in the door itself it might be hard to hear unless you pull the door panel off. When I did my CF doors I forgot to put 2 of the lines on, even then I still couldn't hear the leaks so I had to check all of the lines at the doors till I found them. Turned out 1 of them was at the door latch and I still couldn't hear the leak.

thebikedoctor33
11-20-2007, 08:10 AM
do you know of anywhere else that is problematic like the doors? i mean it makes sense since they move alot everytime you use a car. trunk? lines going in and out of the pump? do the lines go anywhere else besides the locks?

thanks for your help man, i really appreciate it.

oh i heard that a broken door switch, like the one that would turn the interior lights on and off can stop all the locks from working. you know anything about that? i dont think that would keep the pump on like it does now... that why i'm stickin with cracked line...

mike-2ptzero
11-20-2007, 08:29 AM
Pretty sure the lines just go to the doors and trunk. I dont think the door switch would cause the pump from working since you can lock the car up with doors open. You could always setup a way to supply pressure to the vac line at the pump with low pressure with a air compressor so you can search for any leaks so you dont wear out the pump in the car. You could even try using some type of smoke with the air so that you can see the smoke since it will escape the leak and any parts around it.

thebikedoctor33
11-20-2007, 09:56 AM
so it sounds like it's coming from the actually mechanism inside the drivers door. that controls the little lock button that goes up and down. which makes me think i'm fucked. i dont even know how to get into there to get a better look at it...

mike-2ptzero
11-20-2007, 01:22 PM
so it sounds like it's coming from the actually mechanism inside the drivers door. that controls the little lock button that goes up and down. which makes me think i'm fucked. i dont even know how to get into there to get a better look at it...


Very easy. Taking the door panel of is very easy. There are a hand full of screws to remove and then the panel comes off by pulling it straight up with the window down. Once you get the door panel off just roll the window back up and you should be able to see the door latch system once you remove a big white panel. If you dont want to pull the white plastic panel to get your hand to the latch you can just pull the whole window frame which is only held in place by 4 bolts, 2 on each side of the door. Just remove those 4 bolts and slide the frame up and out.

Picture of front driver door.
http://www.centralvalleyspeed.com/photogallery/albums/userpics/10093/PA020518_%28Small%29.JPG

thebikedoctor33
11-20-2007, 02:04 PM
yeah i had to take the panel off to be able to hear it. i'm not really sure that's here it is, but i took all the other ones off and it sounded different on the drivers. so i guess i'll take that shit apart some time. thanks for the help man.

dualaudi
11-20-2007, 11:11 PM
I have to go through this too, hopefully only replacing the pump will do the job... I don't know if i missed this in the thread, but did you take the vag com and CLEAR the codes to the central locking unit?

thebikedoctor33
11-21-2007, 02:22 PM
unless you have a check engine light or something you shouldnt need a vagcom. you have to reprogram your keys for the new pump. This link http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec149.shtml has all the info for replacing or repairing your pump, theres a link at the bottom of that page with info on just replacing it, and on the bottom of that page there is a link on how to reprogram your keys. good luck!