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View Full Version : Time for a lot of work



AAQSC
11-01-2007, 01:40 PM
Hey guys on the 18th I am going to be doing a bunch of work on my 1.8T Avant. Any help/ideas would be very helpful.

Things on the list/questions I have with said things:

Timing belt
-- I have one of the kits that includes the updated pulley, belts, and water pump. But I ran into a problem last time I went to go do it. One of the bolts for the dampener pulley was a little stripped. I didn't have a replacement for it, and I didn't want to get stuck with the car apart so I put everything back together. Where would I be able to get one of these bolts? I will also be doing the snub mount. Any recommendations for one? Also should I do my other motor mounts? Where should I get them? Any specific ones to look for?

Here is the pulley just for a better idea:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/eng35-dampnerpulley.jpg

Tie-Rod ends
-- The steering on the car has been a little off for a while. Also when I went to do my alignment after getting suspension the mechanic wasnt able to adjust things very well because he said I needed new tie-rod ends. I have seen a couple sites selling them, but there are a bunch of different choices. Here are a couple sites with them:

Pap-Parts for $45
http://www.pap-parts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=8E0%20419%20811%20B

Pure EMS has a few different options/prices -

This one looks like the generic one $35:
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=966

Heavy duty $40:
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=1739

Then this WAY more expensive one $125:
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=1945

I guess my question would be what ones do you guys suggest? Do I really need the heavy duty one? Or the super expensive one?

Hitting 100k
-- Another thing is I am hitting 100k on the clock soon. What do you suggest I do? Spark plugs/wires? This might sound pretty dumb but does this car even have spark plug wires? What plugs should I get? Anything else you guys would suggest I should do? I am going to be doing an oil/filter change after doing the Seafoam thing. Which brings me onto the next question...

Seafoam
-- Worth doing? I have seen a bunch of write ups on it and it looks like it would be a nice thing to do for my car at its age. Should I plan on doing it after doing the plugs and whatnot?

Brakes
-- So I have a brand new spare set of rear slotted rotors. What should I do for the front? Should I drop the money on cross-drilled/slotted? Or just go with slotted or cross drilled? Also, what brake pads would you guys suggest? I am tired of all of the brake dust from the stock ones. I already have steel braided lines. Should I bother doing my brake fluid?

One more thing... humming noise?
-- So my car has started humming a bunch while on the freeway. I have no idea what it could be. I checked all of the tires for weird wear on them or something where they might be rubbing and nothing. It almost sounds like its coming from the rear wheels but im not sure. I also started to think I needed power steering fluid because it also gets louder when turning. But the levels are good. Any ideas? Suggestions?

jlien08
11-01-2007, 01:56 PM
One more thing... humming noise?
-- So my car has started humming a bunch while on the freeway. I have no idea what it could be. I checked all of the tires for weird wear on them or something where they might be rubbing and nothing. It almost sounds like its coming from the rear wheels but im not sure. I also started to think I needed power steering fluid because it also gets louder when turning. But the levels are good. Any ideas? Suggestions?

Wheel bearings. Do they get louder the faster you go? They could make a louder noise while turning also. Power steering wouldn't make a noise while driving down the freeway.

AAQSC
11-01-2007, 02:04 PM
Yeah they do get louder the faster I go. Wheel bearings eh? =]

EDIT:
Would I want to get a wheel bearing kit? It looks like there might be a inner and outer wheel bearing?

jlien08
11-01-2007, 02:22 PM
I'm really not sure about there being two. I think there is only one per wheel, and they are pressed in the hub... there is a thread in the B5 A4 section about this right now. You need access to like a 5 ton press to get the wheel bearings in and out. Might be best to bring it in to a good independent shop, or pull it apart and find a good machine shop that will press the old ones out and the new ones in. I went the easy way and had them done at a independent shop. Costs a lot more, but it's one thing I didn't want to deal with at the time.

onemoremile
11-01-2007, 08:16 PM
There is one wheel bearing per wheel. The fronts are different from the rears.

Definitely change the spark plugs.

Seafoam does help. It did wonders for my car.

Slots and holes are more for show than anything else. They will increase pad wear. Their only real benefit is the initial "slipperiness" when braking in the rain is minimized. I just switched from drilled and slotted back to blank rotors and am very happy with them. The brakes just feel smoother. I can't recommend the PBR Ultimate Ceramic pads enough. They are silent, long wearing, have great cold and hot grip, and keep the wheels clean. They are also fairly inexpensive at just over 100 bucks for the fronts and rears. Fronts alone are about 60.

The stuck bolt. An easy thing to try is a torx bit that is a little too large to fit. Pound it in with a hammer and give it a twist. Soak it in PB Blaster for a half hour before trying to break it loose. If you have a standard head screwdriver that fits tight across the notches then that is worth a shot too. Use a hammer to fully seat the head and then tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer while turning.

AAQSC
11-02-2007, 09:34 AM
There is one wheel bearing per wheel. The fronts are different from the rears.

Definitely change the spark plugs.

Seafoam does help. It did wonders for my car.

Slots and holes are more for show than anything else. They will increase pad wear. Their only real benefit is the initial "slipperiness" when braking in the rain is minimized. I just switched from drilled and slotted back to blank rotors and am very happy with them. The brakes just feel smoother. I can't recommend the PBR Ultimate Ceramic pads enough. They are silent, long wearing, have great cold and hot grip, and keep the wheels clean. They are also fairly inexpensive at just over 100 bucks for the fronts and rears. Fronts alone are about 60.

The stuck bolt. An easy thing to try is a torx bit that is a little too large to fit. Pound it in with a hammer and give it a twist. Soak it in PB Blaster for a half hour before trying to break it loose. If you have a standard head screwdriver that fits tight across the notches then that is worth a shot too. Use a hammer to fully seat the head and then tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer while turning.

Thanks man for all of the info. I will look into getting a couple spare bolts from the dealer before the 18th.

I will also be getting a set of the ceramic ones you recommended. I have a 1999.5 Avant, should I get the ones with or without sensors? I will probably just end up getting some slotted rotors for the front to match the ones I already have for the rear. Would I need to do my brake fluid when changing the rotors and pads or should I be ok without bleeding them?

I will for sure do the plugs, any recommendations for the 1.8T?

I am pretty excited to see the improvements after doing the seafoam. It should be huge with my car hitting 100k in the next day or two and having never done it before.

Anymore advice would be very helpful. Thanks again for everything so far!

[wrench][wrench][wrench][wrench]

Bic-Ball
11-02-2007, 11:19 AM
the bolts on my pulley were a pita to get off also, i to them out but im worried about getting them out again if i have to do a tb again. they were on so hard i had a second ratchet on the crank that i put over my shoulder to hold in place and turned them with a second ratchet. my shoulder freaking hurt after the fourth. they were the hardest bolts to get off when doing the entire TB job.

onemoremile
11-02-2007, 03:40 PM
Change the brake fluid. It should be done every two years. If you're in there anyway and don't know when it was done last then do it. Look for a fluid with a high wet temp. That usually means it will last longer. High dry temp is only meaningful for track days.

You may need a caliper tool for the rear brakes. The pistons don't just slide in and out like the fronts. They turn as they come out just like unscrewing a big screw. The caliper tool has a couple points on it that fit into holes in the piston face and then you just crank it in with a ratchet.

Most use the NGK BKR6E spark plug. They are dirt cheap at 2 bucks each but only last about 3-5000 miles. I call Napa a week before wrenching and have them stock up so I can buy several sets at a time. I change them during each oil change while waiting for the oil to drain. Be sure to pick up some anti-seize for the spark plug threads. Mine looks like a crayon made of hard grease. This anti-seize can also be used on the threads of the crank pulley bolts when you replace them. They will go in easier, stay put, and come out easier when it is time to change the timing belt again at 150k miles.

NakedDave8
11-06-2007, 10:00 AM
I know it may seem VERY obvious but regarding the noise from your rear wheels try checking the lug bolts. I had a humming noise coming from my right rear wheel a couple weeks ago and I was pretty sure it was the wheel bearings. I jacked the car up and felt no play on the wheel. I put it back down and re-torqued the lug bolts and got about a half turn out of one lug. That fixed the problem for me so try that first. I felt like an idiot when I got a half turn out of one lug and the problem was gone. Better to feel like an idiot than spend $300 to replace wheel bearings though.
[up]

AAQSC
11-06-2007, 10:13 AM
Good call. I will check them hopefully tonight!

AAQSC
11-08-2007, 09:57 AM
So, I went and saw a friend of mine who is a mechanic and we tracked the hum noise to my left rear wheel bearing. So now I know the one to replace. He suggested replacing the hub as well. He said when the bearing goes sometimes it will warp the hub. Sounds pretty logical to me.

Anyone know how hard it is to replace the tie rods? Any special tools required?

Tifun
11-08-2007, 07:55 PM
I did my rear wheel bearings. My hub was solid. However we did have an issue with our other car and had to replace the hub and the knuckle because we waited so long to replace it and it sort of welded itself. So don't wait around, if it's going bad, best replace it before it gets worse and cost you more than just a bearing. As for specialty tools for tie rod ends. You can go to most any parts store and rent the tools needed and get a refund for that amount.
-Keith

AAQSC
11-13-2007, 01:11 PM
Had the wheel bearing checked out and replaced. It ended up being the rear left wheel bearing that was pretty toast. Replaced that and thankfully my hub wasnt messed up so that saved me some cash.

I picked up my new APR snub mount, replacement bolts, oil, oil filter, and new plugs today. Score. This weekend I am doing the timing belt, possibly seafoam, oil change, plugs change, install of the new snub mount, and beer consumption.

AAQSC
11-19-2007, 10:04 AM
So this weekend I took care of the:

-Timing belt
-Water pump/thermostat
-Oil/filter
-Coolant
-Spark plugs
-APR snub mount

When I was doing the work, I noticed another thing I need to fix. Lame.

The list as of now:

-ABS unit refurb
-Tie rod assembly (both sides)
-Central locking pump
-Brakes (rotors and pads)
-CV Joints (New Problem I noticed)
-Few other misc. parts

auditi
11-19-2007, 10:13 PM
i wish i would have seen this before, i would have come down to lend a hand since i will be doing the timing belt on mine very shortly. how was the job? do you have any tips or good links you used? i've seen a few on audiworld, audiforums, and audidiy, and they all have different variations...

iin10ded
11-21-2007, 10:35 AM
wow that's a busy weekend. great stuff. after the last/only time i did the front cv's on my car i would NEVER do them again. get new reman'd axles and just bolt them in. it's a little more money and a WHOLE LOT LESS mess and fuss.

if you insist on being a big cheapskate, make sure you mark the 3 parts of the cv so you can correctly re-orient them when you put them back in. i lost a few hours to this puzzle. and i don't think they're exactly correct bc i get a little binding on really steep inclines at full lock. i'm hoping they blow up so i can get new axles. =)

also re the abs pump, i had mine done by auto-ecu - $350 and a 5/yr warranty. works mint for ~3 years now!

on the TRE's i just saw someone selling a solid [no rubber] tre - that would be yummy.

gl,
jim


So this weekend I took care of the:

-Timing belt
-Water pump/thermostat
-Oil/filter
-Coolant
-Spark plugs
-APR snub mount

When I was doing the work, I noticed another thing I need to fix. Lame.

The list as of now:

-ABS unit refurb
-Tie rod assembly (both sides)
-Central locking pump
-Brakes (rotors and pads)
-CV Joints (New Problem I noticed)
-Few other misc. parts

onemoremile
11-23-2007, 10:54 AM
I had BBA-Reman rebuild my ABS pump. There is a thread on here about it. Cost was half of auto-ecu and the warranty is much better too.