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Bic-Ball
08-28-2007, 12:50 AM
I've stocked everything I need so far. I got a timing belt kit from DieselGeek and coolant. I also got a snub mount/bracket, 2 engine mounts, 2 transmission mounts and a coil cover from 034 (I know they aren't really relevant but why not do them while I've got the tools out). Plus I bought the Bentley manual on DVD. I plan on starting tomorrow. After reading over the writeup on AudiWorld a few times I'm going to buy T45 and T30 sockets before I start, I should have the rest of the metric and allen sockets listed in the article. Are there any other tools or anything I should buy before I tear my car apart and make it impossible for me to go to the store? Also, while reading through some old timing belt threads I saw some people wanted an Audizine write up, should I take picture while I do it and make my own DIY? The AudiWorld writeup is pretty good though the pictures aren't great.

Oh and I'll be replacing my cam seals too. [wrench]

akielb
08-28-2007, 07:00 AM
Looks like you've got everything you need - I would love to see a write-up on doing to cam seals - thats something we need to get up.

Revolution02
08-28-2007, 09:48 AM
I used the audiworld writeup to do my timing betl and it went smoothly. I did not need to get any other tools than mentioned on that writeup. Good luck and if you have the time it would be cool if you posted a DIY here on audizine, I didnt have the time otherwise I would have.

sixfiveoh
08-28-2007, 09:53 AM
Yes, a DIY with pictures would be very appreciated. I'll probably be doing this in the next 15k or so, and would like something as detailed as possible, good luck!

Bic-Ball
08-28-2007, 03:27 PM
Looks like you've got everything you need - I would love to see a write-up on doing to cam seals - thats something we need to get up.

i could include that. i made a thread last month about it and didn't exactly get an answer i was looking for so maybe I could try again. if to get the cam seals in i have to take the cam sprocket off, wouldnt the cam shaft be able to rotate while i took the bolt off? the only way that it would be possible to avoid this in my eyes is to take the valve cover off and use the tdc mark on the timing chain to make sure it doesnt rotate anywhere. i was going to take the valve cover off to do some grinding to have the 034 coil cover fit anyway.

ibew5audi
08-28-2007, 06:47 PM
I had everything but the 24mm socket for the pulley blocking the w.p. removal. Used audiworld write up supplied w/kit. That t-stat change sucked. Used a pipe wrench on the back of the w.p. pulley instead of the screw driver method.

Bic-Ball
08-28-2007, 06:56 PM
i guess i'll be buying a 24mm socket, my set only goes up to 18

is this the step you're talking about?
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/eng35-wp3.jpg

i took the thermostat out of my brother's acura legend last year and it's sitting on my dresser. next to our thermostat it's like twice as big :p

seatown88
08-28-2007, 07:33 PM
the thermostat write-up was lacking but oh well, it was still a great write-up. good luck with everything, seems like you got a long day ahead of you

Bic-Ball
08-28-2007, 08:56 PM
i can walk to work so i really only have to have it done by next tuesday, the first day of school.

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 10:19 AM
it has begun!
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/tb.jpg

there isnt supposed to be a mark on the crank sprocket right? just align the cam sprocket, put it in first and the crank shouldnt move without a lot of force?

Revolution02
08-30-2007, 10:38 AM
There could be a mark on the crank sprocket but you dont have to align the cam sprocket (I did) but if you dont make sure you mark it and align it to the marks that you made.

I took pictures of everything as reference you should do the same they come in handy.

Rosati
08-30-2007, 10:42 AM
we really dont need anymore pics than the AW writeup

I mean if you cant do it w/ less pics than that writeup, then you shouldnt be doing it.


The crank has a tick mark on the pulley. Its an indent on the inner ring of the cover.

It lines up w/ the tb cover (there is an arrow)

sixfiveoh
08-30-2007, 10:46 AM
we really dont need anymore pics than the AW writeup

I mean if you cant do it w/ less pics than that writeup, then you shouldnt be doing it.

[confused]

The more pics, the better, dude. I've never done a timing belt before and want to make sure I'm going about every step of the way right. Everyone starts somewhere...

Flyboy64
08-30-2007, 10:51 AM
Why do it in the street? Thats why you have a driveway or better yet a garage.

akielb
08-30-2007, 10:53 AM
I'd love to see the look on your neighbors faces when they see you with the front of the car tore apart. lol - thats a big job to do on the street [:)]

MikeWasHere05
08-30-2007, 10:53 AM
Doing our timing belt is more about taking your time and marking down where things go than anything. Its actually not that hard. Make sure you put the thermostat gaskets in right, and make sure your radiator hoses are on.

A week after I did mine, on a particularly hot day I had a lower radiator hose pop off. I couldn't get to it in the parking lot of blockbuster so I had to have it towed home (luckily it wasn't that far) and then take care of it. Then I back out of the driveway and see the thermo leaking [headbang]

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 10:58 AM
Why do it in the street? Thats why you have a driveway or better yet a garage.
i'm asking about the lower crank, not the top one. i lined the top marks up, but should there be marks on the bottom to keep it lined up when the belt is off or will it stay in place if i keep the car in 1st gear?

reading the aw writeup was was a bit confused, however i printed it out and it's spot on, i havent been confused yet and it has listed every screw. i got the car like that in 2 hours by myself. (getting the crank sprocket off was a huge bitch, i had to hold the crank in place with the 19mm socket and the wrench on my shoulder while loosening the bolts). when i was doing research on these forums i saw more than one person asking for an az write up so i figured why not. i was already planning on taking pictures of every thing while taking it apart.


my driveway is on the left, it's at an angle. plus its nice bick that i dont want to risk getting oil on, even with a tarp or whatever.

Rosati
08-30-2007, 11:04 AM
[confused]

The more pics, the better, dude. I've never done a timing belt before and want to make sure I'm going about every step of the way right. Everyone starts somewhere...

Where do you think I started?

Study the 1.8T engine diagram and youll need no pics after that and will gain the confidence and have the knowledge to do the job right the first time. Thats what I did.

Beemer832
08-30-2007, 11:20 AM
umm you shouldn't be able to turn the lower crank sproket/gear, well as long as your car in park/gear. i marked everything, including the idler gear attached the oil pump :).. better safe then sorry!!

josh

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 11:56 AM
i sure do wish i had a color printer. i keep reading "removed the bolt circled in red first" and not only can i not distinguish between colors, i can barely see what should be a neon red circle.

anywho, rosati helped me with the cam seals. i did the easy one, i need to take the cam sprocket off to do the other. heres to hoping i remember to make a new timing mark :)

Militant-Grunt
08-30-2007, 12:01 PM
Wow, doing it on the street haha.

I just ordered my Ultimate kit from ECS, way I figure if I'm down in the bowels of my car might as well replace a few things.

t8thgr8
08-30-2007, 12:23 PM
whats ecs?

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 12:40 PM
Wow, doing it on the street haha.

I just ordered my Ultimate kit from ECS, way I figure if I'm down in the bowels of my car might as well replace a few things.
totally[up] i got a snub mount from 034 and motor/tranny mounts. and im doing the cam seals and putting an 034 coil cover on. when im all done ill do an oil change since i have it up on ramps. why not.

this is everything i assembled to do the job.

http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/timingparts.jpg
by the way, the snub mount i have doesn't fit into the holder that came with it. i tried laying it on top and banging it with a hammer a bit. is it supposed to be such a tight fit? i dont want to break it trying to get it in. should i take some of the edge off right a knife? (yes i know it's backwards in the picture)

akielb
08-30-2007, 01:08 PM
whats ecs?
http://ecstuning.com/

Monkeyboy
08-30-2007, 01:14 PM
The 034 snub mount is indeed a tight fit. I microwaved mine (maybe a minute), then wiggled it in - very very tight! But it will go.

Militant-Grunt
08-30-2007, 01:18 PM
totally[up] i got a snub mount from 034 and motor/tranny mounts. and im doing the cam seals and putting an 034 coil cover on. when im all done ill do an oil change since i have it up on ramps. why not.

this is everything i assembled to do the job.

http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/timingparts.jpg
by the way, the snub mount i have doesn't fit into the holder that came with it. i tried laying it on top and banging it with a hammer a bit. is it supposed to be such a tight fit? i dont want to break it trying to get it in. should i take some of the edge off right a knife? (yes i know it's backwards in the picture)

Hehe I have the same motor mounts already in, Im waiting to put that snub mount it too, (same one hehe) But do you need that bracket to be able to put it in? I got mine without the bracket.

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 01:35 PM
i just read the diy on fourtitude about the 034 mount, he said he oiled it and sanded the edge, i guess i'll do that. as far as it fitting without the bracket im not sure. the old bracket is a huge hole while the old snub was way smaller that it. it could literally bounce around inside. using the 034 snub isnt going to do much without the tight fitting bracket. i could go check if it fits in the old bracket for you though.


im having a hard time getting the bolt off of the cam sprocket. i dont want to rotate it nad have the valves hit the pistons. i probably should have loosened it while the timing belt was isntalled.

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 03:03 PM
i stuck an extension through the cam sprocket and held one end while resting the other end on the valve cover. i was able to get the bolt out without rorating the cam and haivng valves hit the piston. both cam seals down. i just got the belt on too. holding the tensioner tight with an allen socket i rotated it by hand once and almost shit my pants when the tdc mark on the timing chain didnt line up. then i realized it was a 2:1 ratio between the cams and crank. two timesa round did it. pulled the pin and that's done. since i used a new tensioner pullet it's closer to the block that the old one and it's making the belt not sit completely on the cam sprocket. is this okay? you can kind of see it in this picture.
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/tbdone.jpg

here's a pic of the snub mount in the old bracket. it'll fit but still wobble:
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/snubfit.jpg

Rosati
08-30-2007, 04:32 PM
sorry i had to leave man, girl called me out

Everything go ok?

do a TBA before you start her up

if she doesnt start right up , give some gas

Bic-Ball
08-30-2007, 07:17 PM
it started right up. all done :) took 10 hours. i;m not crazy with the tb not being entirely on the cam sprocket, seems like a good way to add additional wear.

tomorrow i do the motor mounts and tranny mounts and an oil change. i trimmed the edge of the snub mount and hammered it into the bracket. when i put the front of the car back on i screwed the top in and got into the crab position and double kicked the front end into the snub mount :D honestly it doesnt feel all that different, a little less jumping. it feels best when downshifting but nothing amazing. that's probably because i didnt tighten it all the way though, i'm going to tighten it after ive driven it around a bit.

Monkeyboy
08-31-2007, 06:25 AM
I didn't notice any difference between the APR snub and the 034 snub.

Nebone
08-31-2007, 07:08 AM
Definately post some info on replacing the cam seals. I seen people use blocks of wood before etc. and I'm unsure of that method. I will have to do those during my next 10 hour job. I'm at 118k and first belt was replaced at like 75k.

Rosati
08-31-2007, 08:26 AM
Evenly tap the cam seal in (and coat it w/ oil) w/ a woodblock and hammer in a circular motion around the seal until is completely seated

Bic-Ball
08-31-2007, 10:50 AM
getting it out i read that you can hammer a wood screw in and then turn it so the threads catch and pull it out. i tried that but hit metal which scared me so i asked rosati. he suggested to just take a flat head and bang it around the edge and pry it out slowly. i ended up just banging a screw driver in to destroy it and pulling it out with some needlenose pliers. i felt metal because the seal is metal covered in rubber. you wont damage anything by hitting the seal. to get it back in i had a pvc pipe which was the right size, i put a block of wood on the end and tapped it in. if you're going to do the cam seals when doing the timing belt you might want to loosen the cam sprocket bolt before you take the bolt off. if you try to take the bolt off with the timing belt on the cams will move while the pistons don't and you could make some valves hit the pistons which is never a good thing. i think i took about 200 pictures if anyone wants any :p

Rosati
08-31-2007, 12:00 PM
PRY* and pull around the edges in a circular pattern , not bang

and yes, finally use a needle nose to pull it out

Its more annoying and time consuming than difficult

Bic-Ball
08-31-2007, 12:24 PM
i had to bang the screw driver between the seal and the cylinder head though, you can't just slide it in. i then ofcourse pryed. that was doing too much damage to the surface that needed to be sealed for me. i was just making grooves for the oil to leak past :p

Bic-Ball
08-31-2007, 01:35 PM
k, here's a little cam seal diy type deal:

Leaky oil seal to begin with:
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/seal1.jpg

i half went the route of banging a screw into the seal and half with rosati's using a flat head screw driver around the edge to pry it. the screw method was supposed to work by pulling the screw out and the threads holding onto the seal. i ended up just making a huge dent that i was able to stick the screw driver in and pull the seal out.
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/seal2.jpg

pried from the hole and then used needle nose pliers to pull it out
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/seal3.jpg

cover the edge in oil and tap it in gently going around the edge. it works best if you can find a pipe or something of the right diameter to hit the entire thing at once to make it go in evenly.
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/seal4.jpg


this is how i got the cam sprocket off without rotating the cams:
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/camsprocket.jpg

my little helper:
http://www.zeroproof.com/bicball/helperpuppy.jpg
149,750 miles :x

akielb
09-11-2007, 02:27 PM
Is the sprocket keyed? or did you just line up the TDC again and tighten it down

And put that write-up in the DIY section

salz2135
09-11-2007, 03:48 PM
is it just the angle, or is your DV valve hose seriously kinked?

Bic-Ball
09-11-2007, 07:05 PM
Is the sprocket keyed? or did you just line up the TDC again and tighten it down

And put that write-up in the DIY section

the sprocket is not keyed like most of the other sprockets. I just lined up the marks on the timing chain and re tightened the bolt on the sprocket. i kind of forgot to line up the mark on the sprocket up for tdc so i'll have to remember that next time i do a timing belt and take the valve cover off again :p

yeah the dv hose is somewhat kinked. my old one had a hole worn in it from the ac belt so i bought a new one from shokan and it wasnt exactly the same. i'm thinking about cutting the hose off from the turbo outlet pipe and flipping the dv house around to have the dv go straight into the the outlet hose. i have the old hose with the hose in it still so i can make sure it works before i go and break the good one on my car :)