View Full Version : oil light and stalling help

08-25-2007, 09:18 AM
i bought a b5 1.8t a4 today.
its an automatic and quattro.

on my way home the oil light came on while on the bridge, i had nowhere to go and coated off and right to my exit. i came to a stop and the car stalled.

it wouldnt crank at all. some random dude helped me push it off.

there is oil in the pan and the oil temp was about 160ish and the coolant temp was dead middle

thanks all!

08-25-2007, 09:35 AM
up i need some help!

08-25-2007, 09:51 AM
damn... im starting to think the coolant temp gauges are made to not go past the middle bar... kinda sketchy...

oh and sorry about ur car probs... i cant help but some1 on here knows whats up for sure

08-25-2007, 10:01 AM
i vag comed it.

i need a cam positioning sensor.

but why the oil light?

27-00 - Implausible Signal

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4D0 907 379 L
Component: ABS/EDS BOSCH 5 4171
Coding: 0265109043
Shop #: BB 34171
No fault code found.

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 919 036
Coding: 00242
Shop #: WSC 06335
No fault code found.

Address 35 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8LO 862 257 B
Component: CV-Pump,Alarm, RC
Coding: 12172
Shop #: WSC 65535
8 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch: Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01372 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch: Passenger Side or Rear
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
35-00 - -
01373 - Alarm triggered by Radio Ground Contact
35-00 - -

End -------------------------------------------------------

im sofa king
08-25-2007, 10:02 AM
Well I would certainly be calling whoever you bought it from right away. Do you have any sort of Lemon Law there?

08-25-2007, 10:05 AM
not on a 10 yr old car.
i think a cam positioning sensor will fix it, i just dont know why the oil light came on

08-25-2007, 11:23 AM
does anyone have any advice?

08-25-2007, 11:56 AM
does the car crank over at all??? if it doesn't this could mean some pretty bad things... if the oil light was on that means their is something wrong with the oil system, the first thing comes to mind is oil sludge. If that is the case you could of been driving down the road without oil recirculating in the block. and since it stalled and does not crank the first thing that comes to mind is the engine seized up on you and in your case you most likely messed up your head to.

I am sure the seller knew about the oil light going on from time to time. He most likely took it to a mechanic and he said the all mighty oil sludge is consuming your engine and it is goiing to cost a whole bunch of money to fix it... so the guy sold his problem to you and now you are in deep shit.

I really hope you resolve this issue, I really hope it is just the cam positioning sensor, my though on what could have happened is your worst case scenario.

Best to luck to you

08-25-2007, 11:59 AM
I'd try tossing on a CPS.
Dealer or Private?
I'd google it up, and see if you have a lemon law effect where you live.

08-25-2007, 12:37 PM
thanks guys.
the car cranks but just doesnt turn over.
im 99% sure the motor is fine.
i think im going to throw in a new oil pressure switch and TPS

08-25-2007, 01:04 PM
pull the valve cover and check for sludge and inspect the cam chain tensioner

.Mad Hatter.
08-25-2007, 01:27 PM
read TallaiMan's post on vortex(fourtitude), he knows his stuff.

08-25-2007, 10:29 PM

08-26-2007, 02:29 AM
it sounds like you are in deep shit. Could be a skipped timing belt, the oil light is definantly a sign of sludge.

08-26-2007, 05:10 AM
+1 for deep shit, if the cam sensor doesn't solve you problems, might as well sell your problem to some1 else.. :| What year is your car and how many miles? if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for it?

08-26-2007, 07:24 AM
its a 97 with 113k and i paid around 5k for it.

the timing is new and so is the turbo

the motor is not seized.

08-26-2007, 08:53 AM

08-26-2007, 08:55 AM
CPS sensor.... have you checked your timing belt? usually the cps sensor means timing belt issues? if it wont run? busted timing belt?

08-26-2007, 09:16 AM
Do a compression test to see the health of your. You should expect all cylinders to be around 175 and 10% of eachother. If that is fine replace the CPS and see what happens.

08-26-2007, 09:27 AM
the timing belt is not broken.

i went to check the tps sensor and only one of the bolts that holds it in was present.

im going to put a new one in anyway just to be safe..

im really hoping that i dont have a sludge problem, the car ran fine the whole 80 mile trip until i got to my exit. im hoping something simple like the oil pressure switch is bad..

08-26-2007, 10:06 AM
Pull the vavle cover to get a better idea of the condition of the motor. An oil light in our cars is not something to take lightly. Early year A4's are notorious for oil sludge issues if a large filter and a good full synthetic is not used. First thing is first....give the previous owner a call and see what he can do.

08-26-2007, 10:16 AM
i already spoke to him. he is saying he never had any issues. this just sucks, i checked over the whole car and drove it for 20-30 minutes.

i guess you can never tell when something like this is going to happen

08-26-2007, 11:13 AM
i already spoke to him. he is saying he never had any issues. this just sucks, i checked over the whole car and drove it for 20-30 minutes.

i guess you can never tell when something like this is going to happen

what a jerkoff...[down]

karma will get him

08-26-2007, 11:18 AM
nope, my dad might : ) haha

i saw things online about audi extending the warranty and covering engine sludge damage.

does anyone know how long they cover it for?

08-26-2007, 11:25 AM
7 years from the date of purchase new and must have documented oil changes are the appropriate intervals.

08-26-2007, 11:32 AM

i should have bought something reliable

08-26-2007, 12:01 PM
poopie, when i pull off the valve cover what should i look for? sludge?

08-26-2007, 12:06 PM
something along the lines of grimey baked on oil and heavy deposits.

08-26-2007, 12:17 PM
gotcha. i will snap some pics and post them up on here.

cps goes in first tho

08-27-2007, 07:18 AM
going at this right now, wish me luck

08-27-2007, 05:03 PM
well let me fill you in. me and my uncle (my boss) tried to get this thing started.
turns out the cylinders are loaded with fuel. we dried the plugs out and tryed to start the car 4-5 times.
we also did a compression test.. dry CR = 90 / wet CR=125-130

what is normal compression on these cars?
also where is the fuel pump fuse/relay located?

my uncle isnt an audi guy but has been in the business for 30+ years.

does anyone have ANY idea what happened here? how this could be fixed?

thanks guys

08-27-2007, 08:44 PM
I'm sorry to say, your motor sounds F*CKED. Go after the the previous owner. Sounds like he knows what he sold you and hes laughing all the way to the bank.

Compression should be near the 180's. Are you properly doing the compression with the correct fittings? Best case scenario is a blown head gasket....

I have a gut feeling you had a sludge issue clogging your oil pick up and your motor run unlubricated/dry and now you need a new motor or a rebuild.

keep us updated man.

08-27-2007, 08:55 PM
gotcha. it sucks, i really have no case against the guy i bought it from..

08-27-2007, 08:58 PM
pull the head and the oil pan to see what you are dealing with. If its sludge, you know the start of your problems. Rebuild parts aren't gonna rape you if you do the labor yourself. Another thing I would try is to give Audi of America a call or write to them and tell them your situation. You might catch them on a good day and they will dig deep into their hearts to help you out on a new motor. chances are just as good as winning the lotto but it doesn't hurt to ask.

08-27-2007, 09:46 PM
true. before i go head over heals im going to atleast try and get the car started and get the fuel out of the cyliinders

darth tater
08-28-2007, 07:56 AM
normally oil light on then stalling could mean sludge.. definitly agree. however if an engine shuts off while you are driving the oil light will also come on.

did the alternator light or any other lights come on at the same time as the oil light.. Are you positive the light came on and then it stalled?

It also does not have to be sludge.. you said the timing belt is brand new.. certainly could be a botched job. If thats the case hopefuly he paid ot have it done and you can just go back to the shop that did the inital repair.

Also the comp test may seem low but its going to be on a cold engine that stalled and had fuel in the cylinders.. If it was even across the board then I am sure the bottom half of the egine is more then likely fine.

Pull the valve cover like pople said and post some pics up.. we can go from there on the sludge issue.

08-28-2007, 08:01 AM
Noticed you quit updating the 4T thread, the guy you bought it from was quick to jump.

08-28-2007, 09:30 AM
ok guys i finally got this thing started. new plugs and new oil and sprayed some carb cleaner into the TB. it started BARELY and idled around 200. were going to check the timing marks now and hope for the best

08-28-2007, 11:30 AM
timing is dead on.
a good way to describe whats going on is that the car feels like a car with a distributor that is fully retarted. when running and pushing the gas nothing happens.
what controls the timing on these cars since they are distributorless?

this seams like a weird, weird problem

08-28-2007, 11:55 AM
timing is dead on.
a good way to describe whats going on is that the car feels like a car with a distributor that is fully retarted. when running and pushing the gas nothing happens.
what controls the timing on these cars since they are distributorless?

this seams like a weird, weird problem

The ECU controls the timing, the spark plugs are connected to the coil packs.

08-28-2007, 12:33 PM
compression is good. but the motor is not.
motor is NOT seized and the car does run..

called up an audi/vw specialty shop and the guy said 95% the motor is trash.

i feel as if i have a strong case against this scumbag that sold me the car. if not then i guess i will be busy this weekend.

08-28-2007, 02:55 PM
[:(]anyone have a spare motor