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View Full Version : Hub Tamer or Hub Shark for wheel bearing



onemoremile
07-16-2007, 09:47 AM
Anyone got one of these that they're willing loan or rent out? I need to do one front and one rear wheel bearing which means I should do all four. I could strip all four corners down and take all the hubs to a machine shop but that doesn't sound like any kind of fun. I'd really like to do it on the hubs for cheap. [:D]

I'd also like to do a full writeup on the process with lots of pics.

EuroA4
07-16-2007, 10:45 AM
I've done (2) with a Hub Shark...and swore to myself I'd never do it again. Even if I needed to take off all four hubs to get pressed!! It works, but not exactly as expected. The air ratchet I used would not turn it at some points and I had to resort to a 4' breaker bar and manually move the bolt. In theory its good, in practice there is a better way! If you are dead set on doing in on the car..PM me because I have a guys name that I rented it from. I ended up breaking part of it, and replacing that part for him...if that tells you what kind of stresses I was putting on it.

I know everyone likes to do a weekend mod...but this really sucked!

onemoremile
07-16-2007, 11:05 AM
Wow.

MultiAudis
07-16-2007, 11:09 AM
damn. Have fun!!

quattro16
07-16-2007, 11:13 AM
Well you just need a good gun and hit the housing with a hammer as its being pulled out.

Daft
07-16-2007, 11:15 AM
Jim, you definitely need a good impact gun to do the hub shark/tamer. The force required to get the bearing swapped is huge. Also remember this is tightening torque. Most air guns have all their torque in reverse.

I was going to contact that guy to rent/borrow the tamer last time but, I only had one bearing to replace. The VW dealership charged me $30 to R&R the bearing if I brought the knuckle assembly in to them. So for me it was a cheaper and quicker solution.

Another thing to consider is that if you have any worn ball joints in the front, this will definitely make the job harder since the ball joints tend to spin when you attempt to loosen the nuts. I had to apply pressure on the control arm and then try to loosen the nuts.

onemoremile
07-16-2007, 11:52 AM
I can get the hubs on and off but that presents other issues. I'd have to have another car to get to the dealership, independent shop, or machine shop. Either I have to drive my wife to work and take the day off or find a shop open on a Saturday. I've thought about buying an Arbor press but doubt it would be strong enough. There is a lot of used industrial equipment floating around this town and I'm looking for a nice bench mount hydraulic press in the 2-5 ton range. I haven't found it yet and the wheel bearing is getting louder by the day.

A4Shizzle
07-16-2007, 10:17 PM
I just finished doing my front bearing with a combination of these two tools from harbor frieght: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=3979&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName= and http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=1666&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName= (Do not use this press)!!!

The bearing separator worked alright and allowed me to get the hub out of the spindle while it was still on the car, which would be helpful if you were using the hub shark. I just clamped it on, flat side towards the hub and inserted two bolts through the threaded holes in the face, shimming them against the spindle to press the hub out. I was actually surprised how easily that part went.

The nightmare was the press. It was too small to fit the hub properly between the channels and the plates that were included with it did nothing for me. It was barely powerful enough to press out the old bearing (and btw, that bearing wasn't in for very long) and its small base made me nervous of it tipping. I had to remove some of the braces just so the spindle would fit, and even then, the spindle was sliding around because its rounded edges where the only points of contact.

After all that, my suggestion would be to use the separator and a larger press, such as this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1667. Its still under $200 bucks for both items.

brlukosk
07-17-2007, 06:42 AM
I can get the hubs on and off but that presents other issues. I'd have to have another car to get to the dealership, independent shop, or machine shop. Either I have to drive my wife to work and take the day off or find a shop open on a Saturday. I've thought about buying an Arbor press but doubt it would be strong enough. There is a lot of used industrial equipment floating around this town and I'm looking for a nice bench mount hydraulic press in the 2-5 ton range. I haven't found it yet and the wheel bearing is getting louder by the day.

Hey man, could you possibly describe the sound your getting? I am trying to diagnose a noise on my front right side. Not sure what it is.

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 07:18 AM
It is a humming sound. It started when turning right but now is present all the time.

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 07:19 AM
I just finished doing my front bearing with a combination of these two tools from harbor frieght: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=3979&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName= and http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=1666&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName= (Do not use this press)!!!

The bearing separator worked alright and allowed me to get the hub out of the spindle while it was still on the car, which would be helpful if you were using the hub shark. I just clamped it on, flat side towards the hub and inserted two bolts through the threaded holes in the face, shimming them against the spindle to press the hub out. I was actually surprised how easily that part went.

The nightmare was the press. It was too small to fit the hub properly between the channels and the plates that were included with it did nothing for me. It was barely powerful enough to press out the old bearing (and btw, that bearing wasn't in for very long) and its small base made me nervous of it tipping. I had to remove some of the braces just so the spindle would fit, and even then, the spindle was sliding around because its rounded edges where the only points of contact.

After all that, my suggestion would be to use the separator and a larger press, such as this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1667. Its still under $200 bucks for both items.

Excellent info. Thank you very much. [up]

brlukosk
07-17-2007, 07:59 AM
I have a similar sound while turning left coming from the front. Its a hummmmmm that goes away after the weight transfer but only at speed. At any speed there is a "wha wah wah wha wha wha" coming from the same wheel.

I know the alignment is messed up in the front, the camber is not equal and the steering wheel is off center (but the car doesnt pull). I was going to order a wheel bearing but I am concerned that getting an alignment will fix the issue. There is no play what-so-ever with the wheel off the ground.

Is there a way that I can test the bearing to be positive?

Maybe I am just hearing the tire scrubbing?

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 08:04 AM
The wah wah wah wah is probably the bad alignment. If you take a good look at the tire there may be signs of cupping. The humming is a wheel bearing. I'm 90% sure of that. You could rotate your tires and see if the humming noise goes away but what suggests the wheel bearing is the noise is only there under load.

brlukosk
07-17-2007, 08:11 AM
Sounds like a combination of the 2. Tire is visibly cupped. Humming under load at speed makes sense.

Looks like I have my work cut out for me this weekend.

Jim, Is it possible for the wha wha wha waaaah to go away after I do the bearing and get an alignment?

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 08:16 AM
Jim, Is it possible for the wha wha wha waaaah to go away after I do the bearing and get an alignment?

I can think of only two reasons any noise would remain. a) the tire is damaged enough to make noise on it's own. b) the existing noises are covering up another noise that won't be discovered until the existing noises are remedied.

Tifun
07-17-2007, 08:27 AM
I have a similar sound while turning left coming from the front. Its a hummmmmm that goes away after the weight transfer but only at speed. At any speed there is a "wha wah wah wha wha wha" coming from the same wheel.

I know the alignment is messed up in the front, the camber is not equal and the steering wheel is off center (but the car doesnt pull). I was going to order a wheel bearing but I am concerned that getting an alignment will fix the issue. There is no play what-so-ever with the wheel off the ground.

Is there a way that I can test the bearing to be positive?

Maybe I am just hearing the tire scrubbing?
I just did my rear wheel bearing last week. It made the wah wah wah sound at speeds and got louder the faster you went. It would stop it you slightly jerked the wheel enough to get a weight transfer.

One other thing that hasn't been noted. Jack the car up and shake the suspected sides wheel. If it wiggles at all, the there is a great chance the bearing is bad.

The rear was pretty easy to do. The whole knuckle is shaped funny so it took so work to get it lined up evenly on the press. The bearing has a big and small end. And has to be put in in two stages. first the knuckle gets it's part, then the hub goes on and pushed the bearing the rest of the way down.

I'd say realistically I spent about 3 hours doing it. Although I could have easily cut that in half. Make sure you have a 14mm allen socket as well or you will never get the hub bolt out. We used a 6 foot cheater bar, because our impact wasn't strong enough. Also, you should probably replace that bolt since it is torque to yield. 80ft lbs then 180 degrees which we could only get about 120.....with a six foot cheater lol.

One last not. Loosen the axle nut before you even lift the car off the ground......or you be mad at your self for having to do it twice, which is why it took me so long. I didn't think it out thoroughly like I should have hehehe.
-Keith

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 08:52 AM
Good points Keith. Those Axle bolts are no joke. I put a 30" long breaker on and then slid the 4' long jack handle over it and it wouldn't budge. I put some serious weight on it and ended up spinning the 14mm allen in it's socket. I had to take it to the shop down the street and gave him 10 bucks to spin it loose and re-torque it to 120 pounds.

Tifun
07-17-2007, 09:07 AM
Did you get all the bearings changed out then? How was the fronts if so. I haven't done those yet. I just did my inner CV's. Which was about as time consuming....

brlukosk
07-17-2007, 10:17 AM
I just did my rear wheel bearing last week. It made the wah wah wah sound at speeds and got louder the faster you went. It would stop it you slightly jerked the wheel enough to get a weight transfer.

One other thing that hasn't been noted. Jack the car up and shake the suspected sides wheel. If it wiggles at all, the there is a great chance the bearing is bad.

The rear was pretty easy to do. The whole knuckle is shaped funny so it took so work to get it lined up evenly on the press. The bearing has a big and small end. And has to be put in in two stages. first the knuckle gets it's part, then the hub goes on and pushed the bearing the rest of the way down.



I'm fairly positive its a bad bearing then. When I shake the wheel there is no play, but I could be wrong..

The wah wah wah increases in pitch and frequency the faster I go. Durring a sweeping left turn it also hums, but the hum goes away when I straighten out, however it only hums at speeds of about 50mph+ At that speed the wah wah wah overcomes the stereo and exhaust.

How can I further pinpoint if it is the front or rear? The sound is definetly coming from what sounds like the front passenger side. But its so loud that it could be covering up another bad bearing somewhere.

Who knows.. I will swap the bearing out this weekend.

What kind of problems did you have that you needed to swap the inner CV joints?

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 11:07 AM
If it is the front right then it will get louder when turning left. That much we know. If you accelerate while turning left it should get quieter and if you slow down while turning left it should get louder.

My car is humming along when I slow down and make a left or accelerate and make a right. The opposite actions are very quiet. That indicates a bad left rear and right front bearing. Since it is a good idea to replace them in pairs I really have to do all four.

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 11:11 AM
The easy way to visualize which corner is under load is to hang something from the rearview mirror. When it swings towards that corner it is under load.

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 11:22 AM
Did you get all the bearings changed out then? How was the fronts if so. I haven't done those yet. I just did my inner CV's. Which was about as time consuming....


I haven't even ordered the bearing kits yet. At this point it looks like I'll be getting the big Harbor Freight press and taking all the hubs off. I'll also get a set of front control arm bolts are replace them too since they've been reinstalled a few times now.

brlukosk
07-17-2007, 12:48 PM
I recorded the sound my tire makes. Whats the easiest way to upload it so you can hear it?

onemoremile
07-17-2007, 07:14 PM
you could email it to me at jimtremayne at gmail dot com.

Tifun
07-17-2007, 08:10 PM
onemoremile-I paid about right around $60 for my one wheels bearing on the rear from the dealer. My work couldn't even go that cheap lol. They are some big fella's. How long does it take you to get to South Bend??? They have a Harbor Freight there...or is there one in Grand Rapids???

brlukosk- I think the reason they got torn was either A, the shop that did the clutch messed them up, or b this pass winters hard snow......I'm really not sure. The outers looked perfect, no dry rot or anything. The inners were just torn all the way through. The other though is that maybe being lowered caused an issue over the last 70,000 miles....not sure.

EuroA4
07-17-2007, 09:02 PM
I also forgot to mention...that when you use the adptors on the Hubshark there isn't one that perfectly fit my bearing 100%..it was 1mm or 2 smaller...so you have to be sure to center your new bearing when installing it, or you can end up getting it in off-centered and possibly damaging the bearing (not that i broke one or anything).

The gun I was using was under-powered and like Daft said above more designed for using their torque in reverse. I was using an older MAC Tools air ratchet with 30 gallon tank...(don't remember the psi settings).

I'd think those smaller garage presses could work...If I got it out by hand with a screw-type HS tool...I'd think pressing them out from a bench would be much easier.

**Interesting DIY Tool** I used the old bearing casing as a way to push the new one in w/o damaging it. Works well since its strong, and it matches dimensions perfectly.

Tifun
07-17-2007, 09:35 PM
**Interesting DIY Tool** I used the old bearing casing as a way to push the new one in w/o damaging it. Works well since its strong, and it matches dimensions perfectly.
That's funny you say that. I did that as well lol.....worked great.

A4Shizzle
07-17-2007, 10:06 PM
I also pressed the new bearing in with the old one, but to press out the old one, I used a 1.5" galvanized steel coupling. 2" was 1 or 2mm too big, and I didn't feel like trying to get a perfectly straight cut on a piece of 2" pipe. The 1.5" coupling worked well, and should be available at any decent hardware store.

One last tip for those using your own press: have plenty of scrap metal pieces around in varying sizes and thicknesses. Wood can work too, but I split a few pieces getting it done.

Btw, I'm not sure if it was only at the HF I went to, but they had the 12 ton press on sale. I wouldn't use anything smaller unless it was built to fit that spindle.