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Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 06:19 PM
Ok so i have been noticing that the car 'lags' a bit aroun 3500, i always knew i was running rich, but this rich? hmmm. any idea's guys? I've got the fuel pump and don't know if i should install it yt since it's pig rich as it is. also, i have WMI showing up this tuesday, any advice on tuning everything?

The condtions were as follows
55 Degrees, Humidty 44%

Thanks in advance guys.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/audizine2.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/Audizine.jpg

Don Supreme
03-18-2007, 06:28 PM
How much boost and what octane?
P.S. your sig says GT2871r. Does that mean its the full size, because I thought you had an eliminator.

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 06:29 PM
~23 psi max sustained boost.
93 Octane

no it's an Elim

Don Supreme
03-18-2007, 06:34 PM
Well personally, coming from a former 71r owner, I think the dyno numbers are great! The power band looks nice and wide and you made good peak power.

I am pretty confident that dip is a tuning issue. Those are the little things a straight up custom tune would take care of.

What does your wideband say in that RPM region? Also, why don't you put eliminator in your sig?

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 06:43 PM
Currently i can FEEL the car saying, i want to go faster.

I'm not dissapointed with the numbers, just know she can do better

beejohn
03-18-2007, 06:52 PM
good numbers, but that richness is gonna kill your mileage.

since you are ndbw i might've gotten with a tune from tapp auto instead. i dont think theres much you can do other than ask unitronic to fix it since your afr is right on after 5500rpm

Don Supreme
03-18-2007, 06:53 PM
Currently i can FEEL the car saying, i want to go faster.

I'm not dissapointed with the numbers, just know she can do better

I don't know what you mean by that, but how much power were you hoping to put down? You are lucky you went on a dynojet and not a mustang or your heart would ache.

I love BT dyno threads. A crude estimate would say that your 275 AWHP = 350 ish CHP.

If you want more power then thow in some race gas and add a bunch of timing and maybe a little more boost (You are pretty much already maxing out the boost on the elim)

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 08:01 PM
More max power is not what i want, Well i do, but don't really expect it

It feels as though right where the A/F is below 10 there's more power to be had. i would like to see some dyno's from other people with a similiar kit so i can compare.

beejohn
03-18-2007, 08:10 PM
actually, can you log timing/MAF? maybe the ecu is dumping fuel because of something else?

how long ago have you replaced primary O2 sensor? fuel filter?

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 08:11 PM
Fuel filter was replaced about 5K ago,

the upstream O2 i'm not sure, the downstream was replaced 4 weeks ago
(severed by flying clutch parts)

BranCKY3
03-18-2007, 08:20 PM
Have you asked Unitronics' opinion?

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 08:23 PM
No i havnt, i got the dyno done saturday, i do plan on calling them up and having them look at it either monday or tuesday

BranCKY3
03-18-2007, 08:24 PM
I think the numbers are good, torque I thought would be a little higher but it has a nice powerband [up]

Don Supreme
03-18-2007, 08:25 PM
Good luck with that......

Maybe, just maybe.... You could ask Mike Z to take some fuel out or add timing in that range.

Post up some vag logs why don't ya....

Also, I will ask again about your wideband. What does it say? Does it show the same numbers as the dyno?

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 08:30 PM
Yeah the wideband reads exact same as the dyno did. Sorry, i missed that last time.

Driving a nDBW is there anyway add timing or cut fuel slightly? I wanted to use lemmiwinks but i know i cant.

What's the best blocks to log to find the information i need?

Don Supreme
03-18-2007, 08:38 PM
I would log everything

Block
003 = maf readings + throttle angle + timing advance
020 = Timing retard (Important block)
004 = IATs
031 = Narrow Band o2 readings

Start with those.

Dietbudda
03-18-2007, 08:44 PM
Thank you very much, i'll be logging tem on the way to work tomorrow.

Dietbudda
03-19-2007, 04:58 PM
Well i WAS going to log them today. That isn't going to happen till saturday now.

The bolts holding the Serp belt pully onto the toothed crank pully SNAPED[confused] on me at 3500 rpms.
Well, as you can imagine i can't exactly drive the car untill the pulley is replaced, couldn't drill the snapped bolts out. I'll post when i get a chance to finally log something

Don Supreme
03-19-2007, 05:03 PM
Dammit, you have had some catastrophic things happen to that car. I must admit every time I step on my car I fear something is going to break. I run the 35r out to 7200 rpms when I want all the power and it keeps getting faster, but I fear something is going to give soon.

bitterchild
03-19-2007, 05:45 PM
lol, your tq curve is missing a lot of volume

Dietbudda
03-19-2007, 06:10 PM
So how do i fix that? do they make a shampoo and conditioner for that?

Dietbudda
03-22-2007, 09:56 AM
Update of sorts, MikeZ at unitronic is checking to see what tune i have and wether it's the latest or what not.

I'm curious as to what fuel pressures you guys run and how to determine the pressure. Some people have told me to check what it's at at IDLE and others to check what it's at during partial throttle and others at WOT.

Thanks guys.

Don Supreme
03-22-2007, 10:01 AM
aaaaaaaaahhhhhh you need a fuel pressure gauge. You can pick one up from ecs for like $20 or $30. However, you have a problem in a specific rpm band. The issue is the tune. I am not saying the tune is shit, its just not perfect.

bOOOOstedAudi
03-22-2007, 10:10 AM
Yeah Those Number Seem Alittle Low To Me

Don Supreme
03-22-2007, 11:11 AM
Quattro man..

mike-2ptzero
03-22-2007, 05:09 PM
Update of sorts, MikeZ at unitronic is checking to see what tune i have and wether it's the latest or what not.

I'm curious as to what fuel pressures you guys run and how to determine the pressure. Some people have told me to check what it's at at IDLE and others to check what it's at during partial throttle and others at WOT.

Thanks guys.

Always check the fuel pressure at idle with the vac line to the fpr removed.

Poopie
03-22-2007, 05:17 PM
hey kevin, i'm trying to get on the dyno at the philly dyno works. Only $85 for 4 runs. Do you need a welded 02 sensor bung or did they use the tailpipe sniffer?

Once I get my run you'll have a pretty good comparasin.

Don Supreme
03-22-2007, 06:19 PM
^ When is that dyno day?

Poopie
03-22-2007, 06:20 PM
whenever i schedule it. lol...its 85 bucks all the time.

Dietbudda
03-22-2007, 09:16 PM
Aaron, they use a sniffer and you should hold up a few weeks so i can get back on the dyno with you.

Couldn't get through to unitronic today, try em again tomorrow. Thanks again.

Daft
03-23-2007, 10:16 AM
You need to watch the fuel pressure.

I didn't see a mention of an AFPR anywhere. Do you have one? Which? Current base FP setting?

Poopie
03-23-2007, 10:54 AM
hes just running a 3 bar FPR, not an adjustable. Yeah, it seems like to me he is supposed to run rich across the powerband, but the fuel pressure drops and he leans out making it appear to have a dip. No idea, but that dip is odd.

Don Supreme
03-23-2007, 11:39 AM
Yes, I am wondering if the lean out is simply because the fuel pump is dying out *LOL*

Jeff
03-23-2007, 11:54 AM
lol, your tq curve is missing a lot of volume

The missing volume is associated from the compressor cover on the 2871R "Eliminator". A 2871R typically uses a 2.5" or bigger inlet. However, a 28R style (2-bolt) <2" inlet is used, which basically chokes a lot of the mid-top end power.

Diet, I would try to replace my compressor cover if I were you. You're choking a good 20-25 tq from the eliminator style cover.

mike-2ptzero
03-23-2007, 12:53 PM
hes just running a 3 bar FPR, not an adjustable. Yeah, it seems like to me he is supposed to run rich across the powerband, but the fuel pressure drops and he leans out making it appear to have a dip. No idea, but that dip is odd.

That dip could be caused by a "misfire" which makes since seeing that his AFR drops like a rock at the same point. Another thing that could be caused by too little timing during spool up. Dont think his fuel pump at all since his afr doesn't shoot straight up at any point on the dyno run, but it does come back up and levels off which could mean there is more adv timing on his tune after 5500 rpm.

Don Supreme
03-23-2007, 01:20 PM
The missing volume is associated from the compressor cover on the 2871R "Eliminator". A 2871R typically uses a 2.5" or bigger inlet. However, a 28R style (2-bolt) <2" inlet is used, which basically chokes a lot of the mid-top end power.

Diet, I would try to replace my compressor cover if I were you. You're choking a good 20-25 tq from the eliminator style cover.

You guys take bitterchild seriously, don't you see that he is beign sarcastic? If you met him personally you would hear his opinion on eliminators.

Poopie
03-23-2007, 01:28 PM
are you talking about that inlet that bolts to the compressor housing that the inlet slips over? Kevin has the 3in inlet so the supplied one is the 2.5" i believe.

Don Supreme
03-23-2007, 02:01 PM
^ What he is suggesting would transform your eliminator into something totally different. I have yet to see someone modify the eliminator. I don't even know if its possible with supposed custom work ATP put into it.

Dietbudda
03-23-2007, 06:25 PM
Hmmm i forgot to throw the ADJ FPR in my sig? Weird. Currently it's set at 43 psi at idle.

now when bitter talks about the 2" inlet is he talking about the outlet itself or the house itself? If the it's the outlet that bolts on i do have the 3inch on there. If he's talking about the compressor housing itself is it possible to 'port' it?

I have the car back from the shop, hav it all bolted together and plan on running some logs this sunday on the way to the blowneuro's GTG. Should i run the blocks suggested on the first page or are they any extras i should log? Just in third gear or different gears as well?

Once again, thanks for everything, hopfully this turns into a thread that can help others.

Don Supreme
03-23-2007, 07:25 PM
A couple of the local guys are going up to that meet, but I think I am going to pass on that one.

Have fun....

Jeff
03-23-2007, 09:11 PM
You guys take bitterchild seriously, don't you see that he is beign sarcastic? If you met him personally you would hear his opinion on eliminators.

Actually, Tony is a good friend. I just dropped him off at the airport a few days ago. Tony = Sarcasm? Not in a lifetime [:D]

But we both share the same thoughts about 71R eliminators. GTRS is another story.

Are you in his neck of the woods? I still need to visit Potomac.

Jeff
03-23-2007, 09:20 PM
^ What he is suggesting would transform your eliminator into something totally different. I have yet to see someone modify the eliminator. I don't even know if its possible with supposed custom work ATP put into it.

ATP's eliminators use a full Garrett cartridge, retrofitted with their own turbine housing that will bolt onto a 3-bolt KKK style flange. On the compressor side, it is still a Garrett housing. A 2871R uses a 71mm exducer, which normally comes with a B or E cover. However, to make this turbo an "eliminator" with direct bolt on's, ATP used a standard 2560R (28R) style compressor cover instead. This cover normally houses a 60mm exducer compressor wheel, so it was bored out to accommodate the 71mm wheel. Though this was pretty creative, the inlet of the 2560 housing chokes the compressor where it cannot be fully utilized. 2871's main purpose is to be a step up from it's 2860 sister (28RS, or GTRS), allowing a bigger compressor to move more air up top. 2871 users typically suffer a bit more lag down low (300-600rpm depending on tune and A/F), which is made up once the turbo spools and shines up top. But having that extra 25hp choked by a 2560 compressor cover, makes the 71R Eliminator almost as efficient as a GTRS. What you get is more lag down low, and a restricted top end. Honestly, a well tuned GTRS will have a much smoother powerband than a 71R setup.

mike-2ptzero
03-23-2007, 09:26 PM
I have driven both RS and 71r elims on the B6's and have to say they feel pretty much exactly the same and run the same at the track.

BranCKY3
03-23-2007, 09:48 PM
Can you even buy the regular 2871r compressor housing? I'd be interested in changing mine out since the 28r housing is gay.

94jedi
03-23-2007, 10:15 PM
Tony = Sarcasm? Not in a lifetime [:D]


So you do know him well!??! [:D]

Jeff
03-24-2007, 01:45 AM
So you do know him well!??! [:D]

...when everything is said in a monotone voice with little to no facial expression(s) as if the guy was "on something"... well... go figure.. [:D]

Jeff
03-24-2007, 01:52 AM
Can you even buy the regular 2871r compressor housing? I'd be interested in changing mine out since the 28r housing is gay.

There's a little more to just buying a housing and slapping it on. Each housing has to be slightly machined to match the compressor wheel. Too big of a clearance between the inducer side of the wheels, you will lose efficiency (and cause the howling sound that many think is a blown turbo). Having too small of a clearance, you won't have much of a compressor wheel left. You can always send your turbo to ATP, and request for them to replace and machine a B or E cover on the turbo for a nominal charge.

Dietbudda
03-24-2007, 02:25 PM
I'm off to run some logs, i'll post up my findings in about 2 hours, later.

Dietbudda
03-24-2007, 04:31 PM
Well here are some logs i took, didn't get alot done since i had to pick the fiancee up, she's not a huge fan of me driving above 80 (buzzkill) but since she bought me the turbo i can't hate on her right?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/log1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/Log2.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/Log3.jpg

Poopie
03-24-2007, 05:45 PM
nah you can hate her. haha

Poopie
03-24-2007, 05:53 PM
that's very odd how there is no timing pull though.

gotaudi
03-24-2007, 06:01 PM
I was going to say the same thing

mike-2ptzero
03-24-2007, 06:41 PM
that's very odd how there is no timing pull though.

12.8 degs isn't that much of adv timing during boost. This might be why there isn't any timing pull(except 2 spots in 1 cylinder).



Dietbudda - Was this on pump gas?

gotaudi
03-24-2007, 06:51 PM
Why would the ECU not Adv timing during boost...Tune??? What woul a fairly aggressive tune's adv timing be during boost???

mike-2ptzero
03-24-2007, 07:01 PM
Why would the ECU not Adv timing during boost...Tune??? What woul a fairly aggressive tune's adv timing be during boost???

The ecu can only run what the Adv timing map is programmed for by the tuner. Looks like he has it programmed for a max 12.8 degs of timing at WOT till 6k rpms where it slightly gets higher. Odd thing is that the timing should be higher then the 12.8 degs and should increase right after peak tq and that will be well before 6k.

gotaudi
03-24-2007, 07:04 PM
What would the ideal adv timing be. if that is even a question that can be answered?? maybe this is why his torque is lower than exspected...

mike-2ptzero
03-24-2007, 07:22 PM
What would the ideal adv timing be. if that is even a question that can be answered?? maybe this is why his torque is lower than exspected...

Want to push the adv timing till there is timing pull in all 4 cylinders without having too high of timing pull. Readings of "0" in any cylinder just means the max adv timing isn't being used in that cylinder.

Dietbudda
03-24-2007, 08:00 PM
12.8 degs isn't that much of adv timing during boost. This might be why there isn't any timing pull(except 2 spots in 1 cylinder).



Dietbudda - Was this on pump gas?

Yeah mike, that was on 93 octane pump gas from wawa.

The first thing i couldn't understand is the lack of timing pull. So what dose that mean? Am i maxing it out or no where near it?

I wish MikeZ would get back to me, i'm going to try calling him again on monday.

Does everything else look fine though?

mike-2ptzero
03-24-2007, 08:12 PM
Yeah mike, that was on 93 octane pump gas from wawa.

The first thing i couldn't understand is the lack of timing pull. So what dose that mean? Am i maxing it out or no where near it?

I wish MikeZ would get back to me, i'm going to try calling him again on monday.

Does everything else look fine though?




Not running enough adv timing to make the ecu pull any back and this means each cylinder is not burning all the fuel to produce max hp/tq. The zero readings in all cylinders also mean the cylinders arent making power evenly.

Don Supreme
03-24-2007, 10:35 PM
My current uni tune seems to me maxed out around 15 ish degree advance 4k-5k range

2nd & 3rd gear pull
16.5+ psi, IAT (still good @ 45F ambient), Boost pressure (Sure looks laggy)

Poopie
03-24-2007, 11:15 PM
my ctapp is running 18-19 degrees of advanced timing mbc limited 23 psi. Chris said if i can pull 100gs/sec on my ford maf, i should have 300whp. I pulled 106 tonight at 6400 rpm =)

94jedi
03-25-2007, 09:47 AM
good lord poopie!!! get to a dyno!! you know you're probably making over 300awhp right?

xr4tic
03-26-2007, 02:02 PM
That thing is pig rich.

What are your fuel trim values?

One thing I've learned about nDBW, is that it will use fuel trims under WOT, but will not adjust them. If your ECU adds fuel for normal driving, it will add the same amount of fuel under WOT. The opposite is true, if your ECU leans out under part throttle, you could go lean under WOT (this is bad, mmmkay?)

you could try playing with the fuel pressure, but eventually the ECU will compensate.

If you cant get it tuned, you could always get a piggy back fuel controller of some sort.

I wouldn't mess with the timing until you get the A/F in the proper range first.

Dietbudda
03-26-2007, 03:24 PM
Ok i'm not understanding how to do alot of things you guys are suggesting.

I have no idea how to pull fuel trim numbers or values. Can i do it with Vag-Com

I also don't have any idea how to add or remove timing. As far as i'm concerned i can't do any pulling or retarding with a nDBW. I came from carb's, dizzy's and roataries and those i know how to tune, all this fancy electrical stuff, no idea.
If someone can help me understand how to do all this it would be great since I don't seem to be getting any help or response form Unitronic.

I'm due for an oil change and plug change this friday, what should i be running for plugs? I'm currently running the 7e's at a gap of .024. Any suggestions?

thanks in advance.

Poopie
03-26-2007, 09:06 PM
try opening up the gap to .028. I'll let you try my old maf tomarrow.

Dietbudda
03-27-2007, 07:17 AM
Yeah Aaron, if you could bring that to the meet tonight that'd be sweet, i forgot all about it sunday. And i saw you take it up the hill, looked and sounded awesome.

With the gap at .028 i won't be seeing any blowout will i?

Poopie
03-27-2007, 08:09 AM
thats what i'm running right now.

mike-2ptzero
03-27-2007, 08:47 AM
Yeah Aaron, if you could bring that to the meet tonight that'd be sweet, i forgot all about it sunday. And i saw you take it up the hill, looked and sounded awesome.

With the gap at .028 i won't be seeing any blowout will i?

I had no problems running .032 gap when running 20-25psi. The problem with running too small of a gap is that it also decreases voltage and less voltage equals less spark to burn all of the fuel.

Dietbudda
03-27-2007, 09:09 AM
I had no problems running .032 gap when running 20-25psi. The problem with running too small of a gap is that it also decreases voltage and less voltage equals less spark to burn all of the fuel.


Interesting, i remeber reading a while ago about blow out. I'm going to give it a shot with the 7e's at .028 and see if it improves, unless anyone has any ideas on better plugs.

mike-2ptzero
03-27-2007, 09:36 AM
Might want to try some of the Bosch Tri-Electrode Copper Plug. They will run you around $4-$5 each but well worth it and you dont need to gap them at all.

xr4tic
03-27-2007, 10:33 AM
Fuel trims are checked via VAG-COM, blocks 032 or 033 I think

You cant change timing, but you can try to get your chipmaker to add some timing, but I wouldn't suggest that until your fuel situation is figured out.

.024 seems small, try .028 gap as suggested.

Dietbudda
03-27-2007, 11:48 AM
Might want to try some of the Bosch Tri-Electrode Copper Plug. They will run you around $4-$5 each but well worth it and you dont need to gap them at all.

Do you have a par number for these plugs? $5 a plug is better then a blown motor right?

I'll run blocks 32 and 33 soon as i get the cable back form my dad

Dietbudda
03-28-2007, 01:25 PM
Anyone got a part numberfor thos plugs? thanks.

mike-2ptzero
03-28-2007, 03:03 PM
Bosch F6DTC

Dietbudda
03-29-2007, 05:59 PM
Well i changed my oil and plugs today. If this dosn't confirm the running rich suspiscions, i don't now what dose.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/DSCN0451.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/DSCN0452.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/DSCN0453.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/DSCN0460.jpg

Dietbudda
03-31-2007, 03:32 PM
Well i put in the new plugs, and so far, no problems, actually pretty good. Also installed the WMI and it runs a little better.

FYI the unitronics BT software was orginally programmed for a full 2871 and according to mike, the Elim dosn't flow as well down low. Well noone has shown him any proof or concern aboutthe tune. Well he's going to set up a newer tune for the Elim kit going off my dyno numbers and a few logs i ran for him. I let everyone know how it goes.

BTW WMI RULES!!!!

Don Supreme
03-31-2007, 04:59 PM
What difference have you noticed from WMI that makes you say it rules?

Too bad you can't add any timing with lemmi winks.

Dietbudda
04-01-2007, 07:56 PM
WMI makes it feel MUCH smoother. MUCH smoother. Also it def feels more powerfull that and i now know if the WG line blows off i'll be safer. I saw it happen to a buddies Non intercooled VRT and it's the only thing that saved his motor from 30+ psi.

I'll update everyone once i get the programming i plan to hit the dyno asap

Don Supreme
04-02-2007, 04:10 AM
You know the WMI will make you slightly richer right? [:)]

mike-2ptzero
04-02-2007, 07:46 AM
You know the WMI will make you slightly richer right? [:)]

If the timing pull is all zero's it will. Which is why WMI should always be tuned for not just thrown on unless the car has very high timing corrections before using it.

Dietbudda
04-02-2007, 12:50 PM
What we did was put the meth in, and turn the boost up a bit. While running logs on it and watching the A/F gauge, we found it to lean it out some. The corrections between extra boost with the meth bought the A/F's down or up in this case and put it right at 10 not below it.

mike-2ptzero
04-02-2007, 01:17 PM
What we did was put the meth in, and turn the boost up a bit. While running logs on it and watching the A/F gauge, we found it to lean it out some. The corrections between extra boost with the meth bought the A/F's down or up in this case and put it right at 10 not below it.



10 as in 10:1 AFR? What was your AFR without the meth because 10:1 is way on the rich side. Just adding more boost when using the WMI isn't really taking advantage of it since you are only getting a gain once you hit full boost and not during the time the turbo is building up boost. Adding adv timing will take advantage of it giving a gain across the whole power band.

Dietbudda
04-02-2007, 01:47 PM
The new programming is being burned tomorrow, hopefully that'll do something good to it.

The A/Fs were WELL below 10:1 before the meth, WELL below.

mike-2ptzero
04-02-2007, 01:56 PM
The new programming is being burned tomorrow, hopefully that'll do something good to it.

The A/Fs were WELL below 10:1 before the meth, WELL below.
Oh. well plenty more to get it up into the mid 11's where it should be. Make sure to post up any logs of the new program.

Dietbudda
04-02-2007, 03:04 PM
Well i took a log or two on the way to school today, the most interesting got me a caps time of only 4.95 with all the windows down, 75 degrees, full tnak and two passengers round 150 each. So not to shabby, much better then the 5.44 i pulled after the dyno.

Well here's the log, looks like it attempting to pull timing.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/jogged.jpg

killa
04-03-2007, 06:40 AM
Ok so i have been noticing that the car 'lags' a bit aroun 3500, i always knew i was running rich, but this rich? hmmm. any idea's guys? I've got the fuel pump and don't know if i should install it yt since it's pig rich as it is. also, i have WMI showing up this tuesday, any advice on tuning everything?

The condtions were as follows
55 Degrees, Humidty 44%

Thanks in advance guys.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/audizine2.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/Audizine.jpg

That's an awful looking a/f curve, look into different software right away, that can actually wash your rings down and you start getting pressure in the crankcase from up top, then the oil from the turbo won't drain right because there's pressure in the crankcase and you'll start leaking oil from the turbo seals.

Get a better software, you'll save your motor and have better gas mileage.
[up]

Poopie
04-03-2007, 08:41 AM
let me know when you hit the dyno, i wanna go too.

killa
04-03-2007, 02:56 PM
talking to me? [confused]

Dietbudda
04-03-2007, 03:09 PM
Aaron, i gotta call mike tonight from the GTG and give him my address to send the new chip too. Hopfully that'll be the final step in everything, he has the program burnt and ready to ship. So i'm just waiting on that. Give me like a week to 'fine tune' everything and we'll hit up Philly Dyno Works in an attempt to keep everything 'constant'

I'll talk to you tonight about everything.

mike-2ptzero
04-03-2007, 03:13 PM
talking to me? [confused]

He might be talking to the guy with the dyno plot since they are both in PA.

Dietbudda
04-24-2007, 10:46 AM
Hey guys, long time, but i finally got some numbers, just waiting on the copies of the dyno runs to be sent to me. Once i get the copies i'll host them and post them.

Well on to the numbers, running 27 psi i was able to hit 321 constitantly, all 5 runs were within 3 or 4 horse. Pik up in the midrange was huge, almost 50 horse in mid rpm's, so as you could imagine, it pulls real hard, really enjoying the tune now.

Now the car still dosen't seem to pull much, if any timing, should i be conerned about this?

Don Supreme
04-24-2007, 11:34 AM
27 psi on pump gas? I can't believe you get that much boost from the elim.

When do you hit 27 psi? (RPM)

seank
04-24-2007, 11:39 AM
wow that is some nice numbers.

Don Supreme
04-24-2007, 11:39 AM
Also, did poopie dyno with you?

Dietbudda
04-24-2007, 11:50 AM
Yep 27 on pump, i can run at 30 psi but forgot to up the boost between runs. No Poopie didn't dyno, he's curently running into problems with his ECM.

The pump gas is combinded with WMI,

Dietbudda
04-24-2007, 11:51 AM
Oh and 27 PSI hits around 4500

Don Supreme
04-24-2007, 11:53 AM
Did you get your WMI kit from USRT? If so, have you thought about trying NitroBooster ?

Specially formulated to mix well with water & alcohol, NitroBooster will instantly add significant horsepower and torque. Octane is raised and combustion temperatures are reduced to maintain safety.


P.S. I am glad to see UNI took care of you. That tune is running some serious advance timing. The most I am holding is around 15 where you are holding 18 (4K + RPM)

Poopie
04-24-2007, 11:54 AM
poopie did not. haha

I'm running a stock ecu till i get my new one form chris tapp. He said hes gonna work on the ecu and do the bench testing today and ship it tomarrow so I should be up and running by thrusday. Maybe i'll try and dyno next weekend.

The stock ecu on 630s and the ford maf actually runs pretty nice and smooth. I got 320 miles on this tank of gas =).

I drove kevins car and his car does pull a bit harder then mine on 22 psi since hes running meth and 28 psi. I hope to be in the 300 whp range.

Don Supreme
04-24-2007, 11:57 AM
I am surprised to hear that a stock DBC ecu can even run 630s and a ford maf.... much less drive ok.

Eurotuned_A4
04-24-2007, 12:03 PM
wait, UNI updated the file for the 71r elim?

Poopie
04-24-2007, 12:09 PM
I am surprised to hear that a stock DBC ecu can even run 630s and a ford maf.... much less drive ok.

i was just as suprised as you. I tried out the stock ecu on that fueling just for shits and it turns out it runs well. Fuel trims are -1.3 and -3.5. I was happy i didn't need to swap injectors and resolder on my old maf connector.

Don Supreme
04-24-2007, 12:48 PM
wait, UNI updated the file for the 71r elim?

Something like that.

Dietbudda
04-24-2007, 01:57 PM
Well i don't know if they revised the file, i told Mike Z where it was running rich and he modified it for me, i can contact mike and see if they have the file saved and if they will use what they gave me for other's.

Eurotuned_A4
04-25-2007, 11:27 AM
well ill have to log this weekand. i havent gotten off my ass to do it. hopefully ill figure out how to take some logs so if i need some fixing up i can get it. i have teh same exact set up as arif and i havent heard from him for a long time if tehre was an update. last i heard from whitea4 was that they didnt even that the software wouldnt let the car go past 135 so be careful.

Dietbudda
04-28-2007, 01:04 PM
DYNO TIME!!!!!!!!
Thanks to EVERYONE with thier input both here and through IM.
400WHP is next


OK ok, it's nothing super exciting, however i'm satisfied...for now.

First is a comparison between the two best HP runs from each dyno set

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/Compare.jpg

Here is the max run from that day, no torque or A/F

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/maxhp.jpg

For some reason, the TQ curves didn't come out right, i got one run with a good TQ curve

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/HPTQ.jpg

Here is the best A/F i could get, most of the 5 runs it just shot the little probe out

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/Dietbudda/AF.jpg

Oh well, if the motor is blown, i'm going for much more then this. Discuss

mike-2ptzero
04-28-2007, 01:17 PM
Thats a huge jump from 320whp to 400whp.

Dietbudda
04-28-2007, 01:32 PM
Well, better the aim high then to settle right?

mike-2ptzero
04-28-2007, 06:16 PM
Well, better the aim high then to settle right?

Well what happens when you aim too high and cant reach it? I think it is better to set a slightly lower goal, this way if you make even more it is more rewarding.


What do you plan on using to make 400whp?

Poopie
04-28-2007, 08:54 PM
his gonna run a million psi on 200 octane on .90 liters.....yeah...he's gonna run on two cylinders. its nuts.......

Dietbudda
04-28-2007, 09:02 PM
Well honestly, i'm not sure. I was hoping a GT30 would get me there depending on what done internally to the motor, not sure yet, havn't seriously looked into yet, still waiting to hear how the motor turns out.

Dietbudda
04-28-2007, 09:03 PM
poopie, i wouldn't run it on the 28, i'm gonna sell that to my buddy.

Poopie
04-28-2007, 09:09 PM
gt35 on 2.0l would be your more reliable set up. You should be able to get 400 whp no problems. i was kidding before...my drunk post.

sean1.8t
04-28-2007, 09:14 PM
gt35 on 2.0l would be your more reliable set up. You should be able to get 400 whp no problems. i was kidding before...my drunk post.

that's the whole reason Donsupreme went with a GT35r. 400Awhp with "low" boost and on pump gas.. with a 30r you'll be running a higher boost with most likely a higher octane which in turn would be a lesser reliable outcome..

and Diet. haven't posted in here yet i dont think, but awesome numbers! [up]

mike-2ptzero
04-29-2007, 06:59 AM
that's the whole reason Donsupreme went with a GT35r. 400Awhp with "low" boost and on pump gas.. with a 30r you'll be running a higher boost with most likely a higher octane which in turn would be a lesser reliable outcome..

and Diet. haven't posted in here yet i dont think, but awesome numbers! [up]

2 liter with a GT35r still needs to be run at 20+psi and race fuel to reach 400awhp. Pump wont reach 400awhp unless you really push the limits of the tunning at high egt's which isn't good for the engine either in the long run.

Don Supreme
04-29-2007, 09:39 AM
that's the whole reason Donsupreme went with a GT35r. 400Awhp with "low" boost and on pump gas.. with a 30r you'll be running a higher boost with most likely a higher octane which in turn would be a lesser reliable outcome..

and Diet. haven't posted in here yet i dont think, but awesome numbers! [up]

I still can't wait to feel what 25 psi on race gas feels like...

chris164935
04-29-2007, 09:45 AM
I still can't wait to feel what 25 psi on race gas feels like...
You and me both.

beejohn
05-18-2007, 08:39 AM
dude turn the boost down. 27psi is too much for pump gas, as your dyno shows. running wayyy too lean in the upper rpms. i'd say 20-22psi max.

mike-2ptzero
05-18-2007, 01:48 PM
You and me both.

25psi is for little girls, be a man and push it to 32psi[;)]

Dietbudda
05-18-2007, 02:51 PM
Well 27 psi on pump gas, yeah, WAY too much, i pick the car up today, we threw THREE rods last week, however, i did beat the B6 S4 with full exhaust and chip.

Anyway, the new fuel pump is in, i'm going EBC and only running 17 all day and 2730 when someone deserves it.