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View Full Version : change front/back pads/rotors checklist



loustylez
11-21-2006, 07:36 AM
ordered hawk hps front/back pads from ECStuning @ $159 shipped

ordered OEM front/back rotors from germanautoparts.com @ $163.18 before shipping.

armed with:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel25.shtml
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel2.shtml

Only thing up in the air is the tool for the back caliper. Does anyone know of local places that rent the tool? O'Reily's perhaps? I'll make a few calls today in the mean time.

#edit: called Oreilly's. They claim to have the tool for $10-15 but I've seen the official VW tool for ~$90 and another for $40... I wonder if it's the same one. He mentioned pushing and turning it before I did, so maybe he knows what I'm talking about.

I should be good to go unless someone else has any suggestions. Only thing I'm not planning on doing (right now) is changing the brake fluid, but I definately WILL if I should. Probably hasn't been done and it's @ 104k miles.


Things I learned that shaped my decision:

- Mintex Reds get a lot of complaints for poor braking performance and noise.

- Hawk HPS = very little dust, good hot/cold bite. I hate cleaning my wheels all the time and even though they're all curb checked from previous owner, I like to keep what I have looking good either way.

- Heard someone say to stay away from ECS' rotors (in this case slotted) because the slots were eaten away after just a year. I was about to pull on the cross drilled/slotted because they would look real nice behind the wheel, but for budget reasons (2 traffic tickets coming up that I'm fighting = attourney fees + fines probably), I just went with OEM.

NFryan
11-21-2006, 08:57 AM
yea i think auto zone ya can rent the tool from....

loustylez
11-21-2006, 10:45 AM
i rented the tool from advanced auto parts @ $99 for 45 days. you get all of that entirely refunded when you bring it back. not a bad deal. i'll be doing it this weekend or the next depending on if this stuff comes before friday/thursday. prolly not with the holiday.

SeanF
11-21-2006, 12:20 PM
interesting, i dont know if my advanced auto parts rents tools out... i know my autozone does.. i just rented a 3 jaw puller from autozone... fortunately i didnt need it..

plus autozone, even when you rent tools, you get 20$ for making 5 $20+ purchases...

kjgarreau
11-21-2006, 12:31 PM
Just examine your reservoir to check the state of the brake fluid. I would pick up some DOT4 just in case, because when you compress the pistons in the rear, you're going to lose some fluid.

brlukosk
11-21-2006, 02:08 PM
You can get the same tool at harbor freight for $20.00. (now on sale, usually 40.00)

also, make sure to put anti-squeel on the back of all the pads. I ended up taking everything apart twice because the noises were terrible.

loustylez
11-21-2006, 02:13 PM
Originally posted by brlukosk
You can get the same tool at harbor freight for $20.00. (now on sale, usually 40.00)

also, make sure to put anti-squeel on the back of all the pads. I ended up taking everything apart twice because the noises were terrible.
this would be the part of the pad that does NOT come in contact with the surface of the rotor, correct?

also, is this something that wears off after a while and the squeel comes back or what. i guess i might still be misdirected as to what actually causes squeeling brakes - i've heard a few things.

ElSabio182
11-21-2006, 06:09 PM
Yeah man, slather that anti-squeal on. Not sure if it wears out...but if it does, it won't be for a long time, and you can always throw more on next year.

Do NOT put that stuff where the pad contacts the rotor. Just put it anywhere the backing plate contacts the metal on the caliper, especially the "hooks" on either end. Definitely clean all the random pieces of rust and crap from the assembly before you put the new pads on.

It's a good idea to open the cap of your brake fluid resivor before you push the calipers in (correct me if I'm wrong). Just make sure it doesn't overflow, that crap is corrosive.

SoFresh
11-21-2006, 06:17 PM
How hard is it to change our cars rotors and pads, Id assume not that hard, about how long does it take? Also what tools are needed? Also when ordering aftermarket brake pads, Ive noticed that the sensor is there, how do you get that so the light isnt on anymore, you just twist the wires together or something?

brlukosk
11-21-2006, 09:45 PM
It is actually really simple to change the pads and rotors.

The first one might take you a while to get it figured out, but by the 4th rotor/pads you will have mastered it.

You dont need any special tools for the front, just take off the clip on the calipers, hex bolts on the carriers, and the 2 other (17mm?) bolts on the back. Then put it all back together with new pads/rotor.

You can just squeze the front piston in with your hands, the rears need to be turned and pushed at the same time, your really going to want the proper tool for this as it will take you literally seconds vs. a few hours trying to do it without.

Backs are even easier, just remove the bolts that hold on the caliper, then the caliper carier.

If you follow one of the DIY's out there you will have no problem.

zrowcool
11-22-2006, 03:57 AM
i used a needle nose plier forthe rear caliper pistons. open up the plier until the two side fit in the piston holes and twist clockwise while you apply some force inward. both sides went in with no problem. id also but some anti=seize on the hub where it meets the wheel if your running stockers. took me forever to take the freakin wheel off.

bOOOOstedAudi
11-22-2006, 05:01 AM
dude you do realize you got some very very very squeaky pad. they are track pads.

bOOOOstedAudi
11-22-2006, 05:03 AM
- Heard someone say to stay away from ECS' rotors (in this case slotted) because the slots were eaten away after just a year. I was about to pull on the cross drilled/slotted because they would look real nice behind the wheel, but for budget reasons (2 traffic tickets coming up that I'm fighting = attourney fees + fines probably), I just went with OEM. [/B]

I have ecs rotors and i swear by them.

ElSabio182
11-22-2006, 06:39 AM
Originally posted by bOOOOstedAudi
dude you do realize you got some very very very squeaky pad. they are track pads.


He said HPS...pretty sure those are street pads. The Hawk HP-Plus are the combined street/track pads....you might be thinking of the HT-10s, which are definitely for the track only. Once they get warmed up, it's like throwing an anchor out your window [up]

loustylez
11-22-2006, 06:58 AM
Originally posted by ElSabio182
Once they get warmed up, it's like throwing an anchor out your window [up]
hah, i got a good laugh out of that. thanks for making my slightly hungover morning slightly better.



bOOOOstedAudi: dude you do realize you got some very very very squeaky pad. they are track pads.
dude, don't scare me like that... unless you're right. i thought HPS were street pads too, hence, my purchase.


high_octaneRS-4: How hard is it to change our cars rotors and pads, Id assume not that hard, about how long does it take? Also what tools are needed? Also when ordering aftermarket brake pads, Ive noticed that the sensor is there, how do you get that so the light isnt on anymore, you just twist the wires together or something?
i linked up two articles on audiworld in my post above. i'll be looking off them for the job. your question about the brake pad sensor is answered in there as well. you either buy pads with the connector or cut it and complete the circuit (put the two wires together, cap it off and electrical tape it).

word around the camp fire, as far as i'm understanding so far and i could be wrong, is older B5's use the rounded connector and newer ones (99.5+?) use the square/rounded connector. i'm sure you can call who you buy them from to make sure you're ordering the correct pad.

kjgarreau
11-22-2006, 07:11 AM
The Hawk HPS are a bit noisy, but they stop very well and are definitely less dust than stock.

brlukosk
11-22-2006, 07:44 AM
I just put on a set of the Axxis/PBR Ultimates.

They dust like crazy and squeek like hell, not a vibration squeek, but a really high pitched metal on metal sound when they are cold.

However, they stop on a dime and havent faded on me yet, even after consecutive(sp?) 80/90 MPH slowdowns on the freeway.

I have to replace a passenger side upper strut mount this weekend so I think I will take apart the front brakes and put some anti-squeel just to be sure while i'm in a wrenching mood.

( I only did the backs before, as the front stock pads didnt have any anti-squeel on them, just the backs. )

[wrench]

good luck with your brakes

b