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spec-4
11-20-2006, 11:50 AM
My turbo blew.

Just last week I heard a clanking sound accompanied by a loss of power. At hgher speed, there would be a low steady droning, so I took it into the shop. At first, my mechanic says that it was a problem with the cam belt, but upon closer inspeciton found that the nut holding the impeller came loose.

It's a GT28R from the APR stage III kit, and the funny thing is I bought the kit instead of piecing something together from ATP because of the reliability.

How much would it cost to rebuild the turbo?

I was also thinking of upgrading to a GT2871 or 3071. Are there any BTs out there that can use the APR kit?

k0mpresd
11-20-2006, 11:55 AM
you cant really rebuild a gt series turbo

you could do a 28rs in a 28r housing

Audone
11-20-2006, 12:04 PM
Any of the T-25/28 flanged turbos will work (28rs/2871r/3076 etc)

Depending on how old the turbo is you should call APR... their turbos are also custom, not the generic off the shelf 28r.

You are probably better off replacing it with the stock turbo, or you will have to add other things or change software to optimize performance. Maybe ask about the 3+ upgrade! Its not listed on the website anymore.. but it did exist for most models. (I am one of the few with the AEB one..

Don Supreme
11-20-2006, 12:22 PM
^Stock turbo, what are you talking about? Do you mean the APR stage 3 turbo (gt28r)?

Bitterchild is running a 2871r (full) on his apr s3 manifold. I don't know how well it would fit your downpipe, but I am guess it should run on the software with some tweaks.

sandnessmj
11-20-2006, 12:23 PM
I'm guessing he means the "stock" APR stage 3 turbo...not a K03!

spec-4
11-20-2006, 01:04 PM
Yep the GT28r blew...I just got off the phone with Andy at APR and he says that i'd have to get a replacement 28r or send in the blown turbo for possible refurb.

He said that I can't go with 28rs because APR never developed software for my 2000 A4.

Hey Don, is bitter from MD? I've long heard of his expertise...

So I'm probably gonna end up getting an elim kit and try to sell off all the APR stgIII parts. Is there much demand for these parts?

BJC
11-20-2006, 01:29 PM
Why get an elim when you have a well manufactured exhaust manifold? Get a full T-25 flanged turbo.

bitterchild
11-20-2006, 04:37 PM
sup all. elim is a horrible idea. we'll figure something out for you

Don Supreme
11-20-2006, 04:50 PM
spec-4 you should PM bitter and go for a ride in his car. I am sure you will find that it pulls harder than your 28r setup.

Audone
11-21-2006, 10:30 AM
Yeah, I meant stock APR Stg 3 turbo... anything else and you will also have to get new software.
As for the hardware.. (Manifold) keep it.. there isnt a better one readily available. (Thinking Full-Race isnt readily available, or price wise)

spec-4
11-24-2006, 09:20 AM
alright...i think im gonna find another 28R and sell the kit.

bOOOOstedAudi
11-24-2006, 11:44 PM
Originally posted by spec-4
My turbo blew.

It's a GT28R from the APR stage III kit, and the funny thing is I bought the kit instead of piecing something together from ATP because of the reliability.

NUFF SAID

A4ringedONE8T
11-25-2006, 06:39 AM
Originally posted by Audone
Yeah, I meant stock APR Stg 3 turbo... anything else and you will also have to get new software.
As for the hardware.. (Manifold) keep it.. there isnt a better one readily available. (Thinking Full-Race isnt readily available, or price wise)

You could run a GTRS on the APR Stg 3 software, Ive talked to someone, cant mention names, at APR about this and it WOULD work. Im not 100% sure on what comes with the B5 kit but as long as you run the injectors and MAF for the APR software it should run really any of the BT's that bolt up to the manifold.

Keep in mind the REVO BT software runs the GT2X, GTRS, and 71R all with the exact same software. Anyone that knows or has seen the turbos knows they are drastically different in size especially the GT2X to GTRS. When you get to the BT software, most BT's all react alike. Its not like K03/K04 software where as the software is throwing tons of timing in the uppers RPM's in order to compensate for the turbo dying out.

You may make a few more HP with software written for the exact turbo, but with a MBC or EBC and the use of lemmiwinks, the APR Stg 3 software could really run any BT from a 28R up to a 3071R with some slight tweaking!

Shawn

fred2ka4
11-25-2006, 07:23 AM
Call APR and see if they will warrenty it. All you can do is ask, and their answer might suprise you .... [:)]

bOOOOstedAudi
11-25-2006, 11:18 AM
Originally posted by fred2ka4
Call APR and see if they will warrenty it. All you can do is ask, and their answer might suprise you .... [:)]
lol they would warranty parts on a car the used for a show. they asked my friend who has the stage 3+ in his gti to use his car and one day at a track even something money broke with the mani and they were like that will be $65765765756.99 only 3 months after he got the kit

spec-4
11-25-2006, 09:37 PM
the nut that came off was on the turbine/impeller and this definitely wasnt a wear and tear kinda issue. The rep i spoke to at APR said this was strange and asked me to send the turbo in, so i'm in the process of taking it out.

Thing's a PITA to get out...i'm ok around the garage and my mechanic is kind enough to let me use his garage/tools to work on it myself, but i'm stuck on the downpipe.

So far, i've got the intake out and the oil lines from the turbo, but the 5th 8mm bolt on the bottom of the downpipe is IMPOSSIBLE to get out - i've tried wobble joints and a half moon box wrench...any suggestions??

i've tried searching AW and AZ for a turbo/downpipe removal write up...maybe i didnt look hard enough?

onemoremile
11-25-2006, 09:59 PM
Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust system under the car. That joint is by the transmission. Then disconnect the cat from the turbo. The cat and downpipe will come out as one piece. It will have to be twisted around a bit but it should come out. If it doesn't you can now twist and turn it until you get proper access to the fasteners holding it together. once the cat and downpipe are out of the way everything gets a lot easier.

sandnessmj
11-26-2006, 09:47 AM
So out of curiosity - what does the imfamous "dentist drill" sound like - is it really loud, or does it only show up under boost? I ask, because today I was driving around, and I could swear that I could hear the turbo spool a little bit earlier than I normally hear it. Of course, the music wasn't up very loud, and then I shut it off to try and hear better, and I might be psyching myself out.

FWIW, the turbo in my car was replaced about a month ago, so if it's going on me already, I'll be pissed!

I should also add, there was a bit of stuttering when it was WOT in 5th gear, however, it didn't happen all the time, just once or twice...

onemoremile
11-26-2006, 10:17 AM
The dentist drill noise is loud enough that you will know immediately that something is wrong. It is more of a "Damn, WTF is that?!?" than a "I think I might hear something if I listen hard enough..." kinda thing.

sandnessmj
11-26-2006, 10:21 AM
Originally posted by onemoremile
The dentist drill noise is loud enough that you will know immediately that something is wrong. It is more of a "Damn, WTF is that?!?" than a "I think I might hear something if I listen hard enough..." kinda thing.

Phew! That's good to know. Appreciate the help.

spec-4
11-26-2006, 08:11 PM
mine was definitely quiet - not a dentist drill...i told my mechanic about it and he didnt notice anything - two months later...BOOM. blown turbo.

sandnessmj
11-27-2006, 09:05 AM
Originally posted by spec-4
mine was definitely quiet - not a dentist drill...i told my mechanic about it and he didnt notice anything - two months later...BOOM. blown turbo.

How long had you had the APR kit installed? Now you've got me worried again...

spec-4
11-27-2006, 09:07 AM
2 1/2 years - it would only happen under boost and was very very subtle

sandnessmj
11-27-2006, 09:12 AM
Originally posted by spec-4
2 1/2 years - it would only happen under boost and was very very subtle

Well, my kit has been on a while, but the turbo (and appropriate gaskets) was replaced about 1 month ago, so if it's going already, I won't be a happy camper. I honestly think I have a boost leak right now, but I'm sans boost guage, so it's hard to tell....[:(]

sandnessmj
12-11-2006, 02:02 PM
So I got an AWE-tuning boost gauge installed, and after a few runs up and down the road, I'm peaking at about 9-10psi...not cool. This is all happening after hearing that pulsing air sound for a few weeks. Then, I change the oil, install the gauge, and this is where I'm at.

Anyone have any clues on this? The car is basically driving fine otherwise. No CEL, no funny noises, etc. I checked the DV today (it's a 710N) and it seems to be in working order. At this point I'm stumped.[confused]

Someone warned me when I first posted on this forum that I'd be in for a lot of this: [headbang] [=(] [:(] [headbang] [mad] I just didn't think it'd be so soon...

onemoremile
12-11-2006, 02:27 PM
It may be something as simple as a vacuum leak. If it was a blown turbo you probably wouldn't be fine up to 9-10 psi. It seems like there would be something noticeably wrong like funny noises or something.

What happens above 9-10 psi? I was stuck there for a while myself. I tried everything and replaced all the vac lines, cleaned the diverter valve, changed the plugs and coilpacks, etc.. It drove perfectly under 7-10 psi all the way to redline. If I floored it at any point in any gear or took it above 7-10 psi it would sound like someone was drumming on the turbo inlet pipe. I ended up putting an entire new PCV system in the car when the engine was apart and that did it. If your puck valve is giving up at 9-10 psi then it could cause similar similar symptoms.

sandnessmj
12-11-2006, 02:48 PM
What happens above 9-10 psi?

If your puck valve is giving up at 9-10 psi then it could cause similar symptoms.

Car doesn't go above 10psi anymore [:(] ..almost as if the ECU isn't allowing it to push any more than that... At WOT it spools up, but peaks right below 10psi...

What's a puck valve?

sandnessmj
12-11-2006, 03:23 PM
So after doing some reading, I'm thinking it might be the N75 valve that's giving me issues. If it's stuck at a certain setting, it's only going to allow the turbo to spool to a certain level, right? Or if it's just completely dead, the turbo will spool a little (like 8-9 pounds worth), but it will be letting most of the exhaust gas bypass the impeller... I'm going to try replacing this, unless anyone has any better ideas...

*edit*
After taking a quick look at my N75, it looks like the bracket that the solenoid is attached to has some pretty significant rust on it, and I might have crunched it behind the headlight when I replaced my stockers with DEPO's...so I'm definitely going to look at replacing it...I can't think of anything else that would cause those symptoms.

On another note, my gas mileage is pretty stinking good right now, which leads me to believe that this is the problem. If it was a boost leak, the ECU would send fuel for regular boost which would make it run rich, right?

sandnessmj
12-11-2006, 04:16 PM
Sorry for posting a million times in one thread, but I have one last question:

Is there a way to test the N75? There are a few threads where people have waste gate issues, and the suggestion has been to disconnect the N75 and try running the car...is that what I should be trying with the GT28R, or am I going to cause more damage with that approach?

I don't think I'm seeing a boost leak or a problem with my vacuum hoses - the boost guage holds steady at 25in HG during idle and when I let off the gas while driving...

sandnessmj
12-11-2006, 06:45 PM
Bueller?...Bueller?

spec-4
12-11-2006, 07:57 PM
Ok, I just sent the turbo back to APR...I'll update when they get it/send it back

Audone
12-12-2006, 09:07 AM
I had a similiar problem with my 3.. turned out to be the wastegate arm had come unattached to the flap. All it took was a c-ring and it was back to normal.

I beleive if you have a VAG you can check the N75 cycle....

sandnessmj
12-12-2006, 10:23 AM
I had a similiar problem with my 3.. turned out to be the wastegate arm had come unattached to the flap. All it took was a c-ring and it was back to normal.

I beleive if you have a VAG you can check the N75 cycle....

God, I hope that's what it is...I have to wait 9 hours now until work is over before I can go check...

Would there be any damage incurred from running like this over the past couple weeks?

bitterchild
12-12-2006, 02:21 PM
not likely

spec-4
12-23-2006, 08:38 PM
WTF.

I called APR the other day and guess what the tech said...

"yeah man the fins burned out"

"it happens all the time...even to stock turbos"

WTF.

That bull#(@*%& mother#(@*%&@# the fins are made of aluminum/inconel...thats like saying the props in a jet engine just spontaneously burn out.

#@($ APR.

I'm calling after the holiday to talk to a manager.

Irony I guess - I went with APR with for their reputation for service reliability and customer service...but when the nut on the intake side of my impeller just magically falls off...they wont touch it with a 10 foot pole.

@P!(*#P)(*!U@# APR.

20vturbo
01-01-2007, 10:27 AM
They have a very good product but in customer service they have a lot of lag..MIne has the turbine housing cracked around the wg flap, I'll be giving them a call but I am not sure they'll warranty it, but it's worth the try

20vturbo
01-01-2007, 10:28 AM
..[:d]

whizbang18T
01-01-2007, 11:51 AM
fwiw .. i replaced my 28R w/ a 28RS ... 2871R should be fine as well. the stock tune is pretty decent & runs quite rich.

http://www.whizbang18t.com/v/jetta/parts/turbo/sneaky/
http://www.whizbang18t.com/v/jetta/dynos/album24/