PDA

View Full Version : Auto-RX Success?



NFryan
11-15-2006, 08:07 AM
Ok im replacing my oil pressure switch tonight. If it doesnt fix my problem and it is due to engine sludge...... Has anyone tried or has success with Auto-RX treatment for engine sludge removal.. My car is not knocking or anything yet so im hoping its fixable.. Please Let Me know of you have tried or know anyone who has tried the product.. It seems that it would be fixing alot of the sludge issues people on the forum are having..

nizmosx
11-15-2006, 08:17 AM
to be honest once you have sludge there is no going back. I had the sludge issue, and then did a sea foam treatment and paid 700 for a new oil pump and install, it helped but it was already too late. The internal damage was there. That followed up with a 4800 dollar bill and a reman motor from audi.
Good luck buddy. i hope you have a better story than me.

SeanF
11-15-2006, 08:37 AM
i had sludge as well...

took a $1650 repair bill to fix mine... 2 months out of the sludge extended warrenty.

Audi will fix your sludge for up to 8 years after your cars billed date under warrenty.

NFryan
11-15-2006, 08:59 AM
Its just starting to piss me off.. just bought the car a few weeks ago... ever since i changed the oil mobile 1 synth... the oil light is on every day.... Before the oil change nothing at all and i had driven it prob 1500 miles before the oil change

lovintheboost
11-15-2006, 10:25 AM
what is the oil sludge problem that people are having? what is oil sludge?

bassed
11-15-2006, 12:00 PM
Originally posted by lovintheboost
what is the oil sludge problem that people are having? what is oil sludge?

I hope you are kidding[confused]

bassed
11-15-2006, 12:02 PM
Originally posted by NFryan
Ok im replacing my oil pressure switch tonight. If it doesnt fix my problem and it is due to engine sludge...... Has anyone tried or has success with Auto-RX treatment for engine sludge removal.. My car is not knocking or anything yet so im hoping its fixable.. Please Let Me know of you have tried or know anyone who has tried the product.. It seems that it would be fixing alot of the sludge issues people on the forum are having..

Sea Foam is crap it damages seals. AutoRX is good and helps lube seals and will work on the sludge. Your best bet is 1QT kero in crank case then run for 10 minutes. Drain do oil change but with dino oil and run that for 2k with AUTO RX then drain and repeat after 3 cycles with AUTORX and dino then go back to the good stuff (Mobil1 0w-40).

Neo1130
11-15-2006, 12:07 PM
WTF? Sea Foam does NOT damage anything... What seals are you talking about?

Ertman
11-15-2006, 12:10 PM
This is what I did - LONG!!!!

I had an very slight low oil pressure problem at idle. I only noticed it when I was running vagcom on the instrument cluster module. CEL never came on.

I did several different thing to clean out the engine. Be advised that these techniques have worked for me in the past, but your results may vary and I am no way responsible for what happens to your engine.

After several seafoam treatments with very limited results, I stepped up to something a little stronger.

Method One
It is called the "TwoTwisty Flush" Several Miata guys came up with this technique to quiet the valvetrain on the older Miatas.
First drain all the oil as if you were doing an oil change and replace the filter, (use a cheap one, it will not be on there for long). Now fill the crank case with one quart of 50 weight oil and the rest of the fill with Dextron ATF. The Dextron contains lots of detergents and has about a 15w viscosity. The 50 weight adds enough viscosity to keep the engine safe. Now crank the engine and let it IDLE for TWO HOURS. NO LOAD ON THE ENGINE!!! At the end of the two hours, drain out the oil and replace it with whatever quality syn oil the you use.

I noticed that my valve tapping almost disappeared.

Method Two -
Just before you get ready to change you oil, drain out 1 quart of the oil and replace it with either kerosene, diesel or LC20. CRANK THE ENGINE AND RUN IT AT IDLE FOR 20 MINUTES, NO LOAD, NO REVVING!!! After the twenty minutes have elapsed, perform a normal oil change with your usual qulaity syn oil and filter.

The last method is what I did right before I started my AutoRx treatment.

Drain all the oil from your engine, leave the filter in place. Now fill your crankcase until it is overflowing with diesel fuel. DO NOT START THE ENGINE FOR ANY REASON!!! Now leave the engine overnight. Next morning, drain all the diesel from the engine, though the oil drain. My AEB took nearly 5 gallons of diesel to fill up. When I drain the diesel out, it was very dark, like strong iced tea. The diesel when it went in was clear.

I let the engine sit draining until afternoon. I replaced the oil filter with a cheapy and put the recommended amount of oil back in. (I used the cheapest stuff that I could find, because it is only going to be there for 20 minutes). Run the engine at idle for 20 minutes, do another oil and filter change to start the AutoRx treatment.

Since doing this, i have have had absolutely no problems with my engine. Gas mileage has gone up, valvetrain noise is gone, oil presssure is were it needs to be. YMMV

NFryan
11-15-2006, 12:16 PM
Great stuff man ... so the kero thing worked for you? Did your low pressure problem go away after doing it?

I gotta do it sooooooooon

Ertman
11-15-2006, 12:21 PM
I had to go back and finish an edit, the last paragraph says it all!! Pretty radical stuff, most people will freak out when I tell them to do it.

NFryan
11-15-2006, 12:27 PM
you should copy that and put it in the DIY section.. Im gonna do the 3rd step i think a dont wanna run the engine with anything foriegn in the crank case... At least with method 3 its just more of breaking it down while it sits and letting it drain out... Thanks all of that was Extremly helpfull i know wut my car will be doing saturday,,..


thanks

Neo1130
11-15-2006, 12:27 PM
Yeah, I don't feel safe putting ATF OR kerosene OR diesel for that matter...

Ertman
11-15-2006, 12:30 PM
What do you think "Gunk" engine treatment is?? It's a quart of diesel that costs you $5.

NFryan
11-15-2006, 12:33 PM
where exactly did you find out about these methods... And you had no negative effects as a result of any?///

NFryan
11-15-2006, 12:37 PM
one more thing as well., so with the 3rd one you did.. Im gonna just drain oil and dump diesel in the oil fill cap till it tops off and let it sit overnight then drain...????



just so i dont F it up

bassed
11-15-2006, 12:50 PM
Originally posted by Neo1130
WTF? Sea Foam does NOT damage anything... What seals are you talking about?

Actually if used frequently it is very bad on all seals. Audi uses mostly synthetic seals.

SeaFoam is a solvent Solvent, as in dissolves things, like seals(just about any seal in the engine (VCG etc...)!


Ertman's Method 2 is the best way to go about this. I wouldn't doubt if he and I are getting our info from the same source who would be AW's Audi Junkie who is pretty much an OIL guru and whom I am quoting below.

"ARX's made of industrial strength lanolin ester.Used forever in printing industry.Now copied in High Miles oils. Supposedly not as good or as strong for cleaning engines, but for seal conditioning. Frank supposedly presented it to some oil cos and then they came out with esterized hi-mi oils. The ARX formula is used in printing for machine cleaning, probally they run it through where the ink goes. It also has other industrial metal cleaning apps where solvents cannot be used like circutry."

Ertman
11-15-2006, 12:51 PM
Fill it up, let it sit, then drain it. You will get a lot of smoke for the first couple of minutes, I suggest that you replace your plugs when you are done. I have been turning wrenches on German cars for almost 30 years, my first was a 1965 VW Beetle, foolowed by a succession of VW's, Porsche and Audis. My father and uncle taught me the diesel trick. If your engine is badly sludged, this is the last resort before tearing it down and cleaning the engine by hand.

bassed
11-15-2006, 12:54 PM
[i]If your engine is badly sludged, this is the last resort before tearing it down and cleaning the engine by hand. [/B]

Kero then Diesel (just you described I didn't think he needed to go this extreme yet) and AutoRX as you and I described usually solve some of the worst sludge problems.

bassed
11-15-2006, 12:56 PM
Originally posted by Neo1130
Yeah, I don't feel safe putting ATF OR kerosene OR diesel for that matter...

Why? We detonate A/F to create combustion in engines to begin with. If one has a serious sludge issue this is a very good way to resolve and if not fix it without complete engine tear down[wrench]

NFryan
11-15-2006, 01:02 PM
So what method will be most effective.... Method 2 or method 3... And which has better cleaning and sludge break down power Kero or diesel???? Thanks

bassed
11-15-2006, 01:17 PM
Originally posted by NFryan
So what method will be most effective.... Method 2 or method 3... And which has better cleaning and sludge break down power Kero or diesel???? Thanks

Most effective for best results with heavily sludged engine Would be Method 2 with use of Kero, Diesel and AutoRX. AutoRX is good for keeping seals working properly, think of it more as the conditioner where the kero and diesel will do the sludge removal. The kero and diesel will break down the deposits and get a sludged engine where it should be again (not always back to 100% but close). Then the AUTORX is used last followed by a switch to a good synthetic oil for every oil change from that point on.

NFryan
11-15-2006, 01:20 PM
so ill throw half Kero half diesel in there let it sit overnight..... then do the 20 min oil change ... then my real oil change with Auto-rx... Sound right

bassed
11-15-2006, 01:28 PM
Originally posted by NFryan
so ill throw half Kero half diesel in there let it sit overnight..... then do the 20 min oil change ... then my real oil change with Auto-rx... Sound right

Drain 1 qt oil add 1 qt kero run at cold idel 10-20 minutes. Drain. Then put new crappy filter on, fill with diesel and let it sit over night with your keys hidden and no where near the ignition. Drain and let sit draining for the large part of the following day. Then run a dino oil and autorx cycle (usually 3 oil changes around 2k apart used in conjunction with a dino oil). Then once you complete the AutoRX cycle(s) go back to the upgraded OEM filter or Napa 1333 gold and run a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0w-40. This is basically Eatmans Method 2 and 3 in one big cycle to achieve the most dramatic results. You can also just do the 1qt of oil drain and replace with Kero run 20 followed by autorx but the diesel step will get the best results, so if you incorporate them all in one big sequence you will be golden.

Ertman
11-15-2006, 01:33 PM
^^^^^Winnar!!^^^^^

MultiAudis
11-15-2006, 06:19 PM
damn I think I just had my mind blown and my face melted.... bookmarked for sure!!!

ScottyB 1.8T
11-15-2006, 07:24 PM
damn Ertman thanks for posting that.

i have exactly the same problem as you once did with slightly low oil pressure on my AEB at idle (pressure's ok at 2k rpm and up). i've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure out a way to take at least some of the edge off of my lifter tap without tearing the engine down.

NFryan
11-16-2006, 05:44 AM
Yea i def think this thread helped alot of people out....Thanks ertman and bassed alot.. ill let ya kno my results on monday im gonna do step 2 and 3 between friday night and saturday...With everyone having these sludge issues everyone only has one thing to offer as far as advice go get a new engine... I knew there had to be another reasonablr solution ... Not every slightly sludged engine is Shot.......



thanks again,
<RS>

iin10ded
11-17-2006, 12:21 PM
backing up ertman here - these fixes are nothing new [but well documented!] and nearly all of the motor flushers, cleaners, etc are just branded concoctions absed on readilly available items like diesel, atf, etc.

atf is just motor oil with added detergents and surfactants to keep all the small bits in the tranny clean. it's an age-old trick to run a little atf in the crankcase prior to an oil change. i'm NO chemist but there is a lot of info out there if you search for it.

filling your motor up with diesel is PRETTY ballsy =) i jsut used the mopar combustion chamber cleaner and it really works well. i used this method:

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tricks.htm#flush

there is a page out there some guy did that details how he pulled his pan, cleaned the oil pump, screen, pickup and also de-gunked his head [i don't think he removed it] - it's a great writeup for DIY but i cant seem to find it..

71velle
03-30-2008, 05:05 PM
All -

I really need your help.

I just bought a 1999 A4 1.8T 2 weeks ago. After doing some research on this sludge issue (my wife had the oil light come on), I decided to try the diesel flush suggested by ERTMAN.

After draining the diesel out of the motor and refilling with oil, the car now smokes BADLY. This smoke is even worse than when I have used Seafoam on previous cars that I have owned. Thinking this smoke is just the remnants of diesel, I let it run for 10 minutes. The smoke never went away.

What happened? What did I screw up? I just bought this car and I don't have the money to rebuild it right now.

Please help!

Troy

Tiluleshpingen
03-30-2008, 05:16 PM
auto rx is exelent for vehicles above 100k they should do another cycle

fikes
03-30-2008, 06:06 PM
How harsh of a treatment do you recommend for this amount of sludge. All the steps or just a few of them.
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/5743/cimg0927ns5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

mravantit
03-30-2008, 06:30 PM
I had low oil pressure light coming on a while back. I did 2 treatment of Lubro Molly Engine Flush, no problems every since, car is running smooth as silk.

audiness
03-30-2008, 07:13 PM
All -

I really need your help.

I just bought a 1999 A4 1.8T 2 weeks ago. After doing some research on this sludge issue (my wife had the oil light come on), I decided to try the diesel flush suggested by ERTMAN.

After draining the diesel out of the motor and refilling with oil, the car now smokes BADLY. This smoke is even worse than when I have used Seafoam on previous cars that I have owned. Thinking this smoke is just the remnants of diesel, I let it run for 10 minutes. The smoke never went away.

What happened? What did I screw up? I just bought this car and I don't have the money to rebuild it right now.

Please help!

Troy

ummm... what color is the smoke? Black - remnants of disel. blue - remnants of oil.

DGAFxxx
03-30-2008, 07:25 PM
I had a sludge problem, I was constantly getting the low oil pressure light. Seemed like my valves were always ticking. I did 2 auto RX treatments, and after my engine sounded brand new, I have never had a low oil pressure light since.

71velle
03-30-2008, 08:08 PM
ummm... what color is the smoke? Black - remnants of disel. blue - remnants of oil.

At first I thought it was pure white, but looking at it more, it has some blue in it.

We took a quick look at the hose running to the intake, and there is a fair amount of oil in there. I think maybe we desludged whatever was keeping my turbo seals sealed...

Any other thoughts?

Troy

AB18
03-30-2008, 10:09 PM
Has anyone tried the Amsoil engine flush? Ive used seafoam a couple times, but really don't want to do it often. The rx treatment sounds tempting.

ModifiedA4
03-31-2008, 07:18 AM
personally i wouldnt use auto-rx. any product that requires me to use dino oil for an extended period of time is a fvckin FAIL in my mind. no way dino oil is ever going in my crankcase.

anyway, thats my 2 cents.

Mitchter520
03-12-2011, 07:44 PM
Ok so i did the method that is decribed above. what seemed to have worked was short lived. while the noise stopped for about 30 min then came back. any ideas?