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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings 2000blk1.8t's Avatar
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    Jan 26 2014
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    Livingston

    proper pcv set up

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    so its kind of a long story. I took this 2003 1.8t with a bad head, and swapped a 2002 AWM out of a Passat into this car. In my stupidity, I thought, why replace this entire failing PCV system when I could just get rid of it? I totally gutted the emissions on this car, and vented everything to the ground with hose. Well, after a year of driving, I was getting a ton of oil into the exhaust and intake. Thought the turbo had just let go after 150k miles. I bought a new Turbo Concepts stage 2 turbo with some 550cc injectors and a stage 2 tune. Running around 20 PSI +/-. After 700 miles, back to having oil coming out of the exhaust and in the intake. I sent the turbo off to Nick at TC again to have him check it out. He checked it over and everything checked out ok, but he freshened it up for me. he said it looked like my crank case wasn't venting properly. After doing a lot of research, I have come to see the errors in my ways about venting a turbo car to atmosphere. I want to do it right with a catch can, but I see a lot of conflicting info. Some say vent the can to atmosphere, and some say run it back to the puck. I'm thinking my car is making so much boost, the atmosphere vent isn't venting enough, and I need a vacuum to pull the pressurized air out.
    2003 a4 b6 1.8t, 5 speed, factory sport package, factory Xeon lighting, H&R lowering springs, reflect tuning stage 2, Turbo Concepts stage 2 turbo,550cc injectors, magnaflow dual exhaust, retrofitted front and rear heated seats, 18x8.5 gloss black powder coated TSW wheels, USP rear spoiler, 5% tint all around.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings 2000blk1.8t's Avatar
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    Jan 26 2014
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    Livingston

    I should also mention, I'm pretty sure my engine its self is ok, compression test shows about 175-180 PSI on all cylinders.
    2003 a4 b6 1.8t, 5 speed, factory sport package, factory Xeon lighting, H&R lowering springs, reflect tuning stage 2, Turbo Concepts stage 2 turbo,550cc injectors, magnaflow dual exhaust, retrofitted front and rear heated seats, 18x8.5 gloss black powder coated TSW wheels, USP rear spoiler, 5% tint all around.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Jun 30 2008
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    30427
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    Erie, Pennsylvania

    I think at your horsepower level you will be well suited to run a simplified version of the factory system. It is just a few parts, but will reinstate the fresh air ventilation and metered vacuum that is desireable on a turbo car.

    The basics are this:
    - Connect the block breather port to the valve cover port with around 3/4" hose
    - Continue 3/4" hose over to Turbo Inlet pipe
    - Connect to Turbo inlet pipe via factory PRV (pressure regulating valve, aka "puck" valve or "pancake" valve)
    - This completes the first half of the system.

    Second half is this:
    - "T" the breather hose in between the block and valve cover
    - Install the factory PCV valve in that "T"
    - Connect the PCV valve directly to the intake manifold.

    That's it.

    My suggestion would be to use OEM parts for easy availability/serviceability/cheapness. Specifically I would advise using the *metal vertical breather pipe* from the 2001 B5-AWM/Early-B6-AMB to connect the block to the Valve Cover. The later B6 PCV system, in addition to being patently ridiculous on many levels, uses a plastic vertical pipe that is very expensive and difficult to work with - while at the same time being a piece of actual garbage.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    "You need to know what you are doing...Its like a rainbow jungle in there." - Redline380

  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Jun 09 2016
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    u.k

    Quote Originally Posted by 2000blk1.8t View Post
    I should also mention, I'm pretty sure my engine its self is ok, compression test shows about 175-180 PSI on all cylinders.
    Venting to the turbo inlet pipe is the only way that you will have vacuum to vent the crankcase, venting to atmosphere is useless as you have found out.
    Just replace all the stock stuff and add a baffled catch can and all should be well again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings 2000blk1.8t's Avatar
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    Jan 26 2014
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    Livingston

    Thanks for that info. Any advice on a catch can plumbing set up? Only because I already ordered a mushimoto can yesterday.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Jun 30 2008
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    30427
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    Erie, Pennsylvania

    Assuming you still have the metal breather pipes that came with your 2003 A4 (but need new of everything else), your shopping list might look something like this:

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...kit/06a198298/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...6a129101d~uro/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...58103493a~ham/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...6b103221p~ham/

    Then a bunch o' clamps and a length of good oil-rated hose to go from the PCV valve to whatever intake manifold port you want to use. This hose would be an exact fit, if you aren't currently using the bottom port on your manifold for anything (034 version of factory hose "058 103 221A" from the AEB engine):
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor...-101-3025~034/

    The above is a just an example. Please do your own research for fitment to your exact car. This does not include provisions for a catch can.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    "You need to know what you are doing...Its like a rainbow jungle in there." - Redline380

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings 2000blk1.8t's Avatar
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    Jan 26 2014
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    140772
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    Livingston

    So I'm curious, why the need to return to the manifold between the cover vent and the block? I see a lot of 1.8ts just basically doing your first step and using a catch can.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Jun 30 2008
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    Erie, Pennsylvania

    That's where the vacuum is applied to the crankcase during idle and light load cruise conditions. This actively helps pull in fresh air from the TIP, which is an important part of getting the nasty stuff out of the crankcase. If you don't have the intake manifold connection, you can push stuff out, but it never goes into the cross-flow mode where fresh air comes in one side and blowby goes out the other. That's the magic that you want.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    "You need to know what you are doing...Its like a rainbow jungle in there." - Redline380

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings 2000blk1.8t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 26 2014
    AZ Member #
    140772
    Location
    Livingston

    that makes sense! thanks for answering all my dumb questions. I come from a more diesel background. Both my diesel trucks are vented to the atmosphere from the factory. One is running about 650 hp and pushing 55 PSI of boost with no issues.
    2003 a4 b6 1.8t, 5 speed, factory sport package, factory Xeon lighting, H&R lowering springs, reflect tuning stage 2, Turbo Concepts stage 2 turbo,550cc injectors, magnaflow dual exhaust, retrofitted front and rear heated seats, 18x8.5 gloss black powder coated TSW wheels, USP rear spoiler, 5% tint all around.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    May 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    373865
    Location
    Westchester, NY

    No a dumb question at all brother. Turbocharged motors need proper venting or we get plagued with all sorts of issues. Moisture or excess blowby. I'm currently researching part numbers to tackle a refresh ont he system and simplify it as well. The OEM plastic pieces drive me nuts. Look at the WRX community and their need for proper venting and oil separation. Same rules apply to us.


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