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Thread: Saving my 4.2

  1. #41
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    Thanks she was fine, took out both drivers doors and rear quarter. I would trade but international shipping is so costly lol.

  2. #42
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    This is totaled according to progressive

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  3. #43
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    That's sad. Did they consider the cost of repair higher than the value of the car?

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  4. #44
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    They valued the vehicle at only $3700, wouldn't consider the repairs I did because I did them and I'm not a shop. They didn't give me a cost of repairs, just said they typically total if repairs are70%of the cash value or higher. I bought it back for $275 and sold it today.

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  5. #45
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Got the right downpipe out tonight.

    The right side is considerably tighter than the left because of the front drive axel housing (correct term?) and hoses placed just above the header. A whole can of wd-40 sitting for some time helped:)

    The two bottom bolts can be accessed through the wheelwell but the top one I could only access from the engine bay. Had to remove MAF sensor and air intake all the way down to the throttle body in order to reach and there is very little wiggle room.

    Haven't had any error codes from the O2 sensors but should I test them while they're out?

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  6. #46
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I would not want to do them when pipes are on, so I wound think strongly about preventative maintenance on those and do them if you can get them out of a cold pipe

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  7. #47
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Trying to stay organized. Labeling bolts as I go.
    IMG_20180306_190452.jpg

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  8. #48
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Loosened the front drive axles.

    IMG_20180306_162738.jpg

    Lessons learned: lots of wd-40, use 10 mm triple square bit and tap it to ensure it's all the way in, use many extensions to be able to work outside of the wheelwell and place a metal bar to prevent the axle from rotating.

    Also removed some of the shielding on the driveshaft.

    IMG_20180306_164612.jpg

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  9. #49
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Removed the starter today and wanted to remove the torque converter bolts.

    IMG_20180308_173633.jpg

    It is to tight to get a wrench around the crank to turn the engine and it seems to require a bit of force to turn. I considered pushing on the flywheel but I don't want to risk damaging anything. Do I have to remove the whole front and radiator to get at the crank or is there another way?

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  10. #50
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    Place the front of the car in the service position, it will give you enough room to work the crank /balancer. Also remove the spark plugs, which eliminates the engine compression, and it will be much easier to rotate the crank

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  11. #51
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Place the front of the car in the service position, it will give you enough room to work the crank /balancer. Also remove the spark plugs, which eliminates the engine compression, and it will be much easier to rotate the crank

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    Thanks! I will try that tomorrow.

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  12. #52
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    Since you are getting close, please be aware that the trans is very heavy. You will need a trans jack or some type of assistance to carefully lower it down, otherwise u can be seriously hurt or collapse the pan, which can affect drivability in the future.

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  13. #53
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    I made a little socket extension that allowed me get in with an adjustable wrench and turn the crank.

    IMG_20180308_225356.jpg
    IMG_20180308_225415.jpg

    Took the head of a broken socket wrench and adjusted it with an angle grinder. But any square piece of metal that fits the socket should work.

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  14. #54
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Since you are getting close, please be aware that the trans is very heavy. You will need a trans jack or some type of assistance to carefully lower it down, otherwise u can be seriously hurt or collapse the pan, which can affect drivability in the future.

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    I am taking it slow and being very careful.

    Most of the bolts that join transmission to engine go through the transmission and threads into the engine. However, two bolts on the bottom just above the subframe go through the engine and threads into the transmission. Did you have to lower the front part of the subframe as well in order to get at those?

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  15. #55
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yep, I took the whole subframe out. Keep track of those bolts two cuz they are different lengths. Engine needs to be supported from above, between the strut towers or with cherry picker

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    Last edited by Bratcop; 03-09-2018 at 09:46 AM.

  16. #56
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    After dropping the whole subframe I was finally able to pull the transmission out. It is really heavy!

    IMG_20180311_110909.jpg

    No obviously visible damage so far.

    IMG_20180311_110839.jpg
    IMG_20180311_111530.jpg

    What is the common practice when it comes to the torque converter? Test it, have it rebuilt or replace it?

    IMG_20180311_111419.jpg

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  17. #57
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Replace. It is a cost I always have trouble swallowing, but why not do the job once and do it right. That's what my father always says. Before you start taking it apart, u need to measure the distance from the bell housing face to the end of the input shaft. Needs to be same after reassembly. Also reset the torque converter on the input (making sure it is seated) and take a measurement from bell housing face to the bolt pads. This will help u ensure if it's properly seated upon reassembly.

    Bratcop

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    Last edited by Bratcop; 03-14-2018 at 09:17 AM.

  18. #58
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    The transmission needs a good external cleaning before I start working on it. Full of oil and dirt.

    I will make sure to take those measurements.

    Do you remember how much your torque converter was to replace?

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  19. #59
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I don't remember the cost exactly, but search around they are avail, I think in the neighborhood of 500 us.

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  20. #60
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    Note to remember.... Be careful with the tail portion (party visible in your photo with the white number sticker). There are some seals in there that are a plain in the ass to replace correctly. If u don't, fluid leaks out a weep hole onto the exhaust.... U will see when u get that far.

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    Last edited by Bratcop; 03-16-2018 at 08:10 AM.

  21. #61
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Started taking the transmission apart today.

    IMG_20180317_133223.jpg

    Began with some measurements

    Bellhouse to torque converter bolt pads, 4 mm.

    IMG_20180317_134538.jpg

    Bellhouse to shaft end, 39 mm

    IMG_20180317_134631.jpg

    Started on right drive axle

    IMG_20180317_133351.jpg

    IMG_20180317_140224.jpg

    Took the cover off

    IMG_20180317_141959.jpg

    Pulled out the differential

    IMG_20180317_142433.jpg

    IMG_20180317_142808.jpg

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  22. #62
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Left side...

    IMG_20180317_143119.jpg

    Removed the axle

    IMG_20180317_144606.jpg

    IMG_20180317_144501.jpg

    Removed the securing ring and removed the axle tube.

    IMG_20180317_151452.jpg

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  23. #63
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Turned the transmission on its side to get at the valve body.

    IMG_20180317_153217.jpg

    Removed pan...

    IMG_20180317_154442.jpg

    Removed filter and valve body

    IMG_20180317_161039.jpg

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  24. #64
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Removed the intermediate plate and then the a clutch pack

    IMG_20180317_152441.jpg

    IMG_20180317_163151.jpg

    IMG_20180317_163244.jpg

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  25. #65
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Dismantled the a clutch pack and found an obvious problem:)

    IMG_20180317_182507.jpg

    So it's a classic problem with a blown a clutch probably caused by a faulty pressure regulator valve. Somehow quite comforting.

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  26. #66
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Anyone knows how to remove the center support?

    IMG_20180317_164901.jpg

    I have removed the securing ring. Do the two plastic seals held in by springs from the bottom have to come out? Sorry no picture. Do I have to remove the supply lines to the center support?

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  27. #67
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I remember supply lines needed to come out, that manual I provided should give u step by step.

  28. #68
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    I remember supply lines needed to come out, that manual I provided should give u step by step.
    Thanks.

    Been working from the manual but just couldn't figure this out. New attempt tonight.

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  29. #69
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Even when the supply lines are out, the manual shows it being lifted out with a hoist, needs to come straight out. I recommend standing the tranny on its tail and getting something to allow you to pull it straight up. That's why I created a mount on my engine stand that allowed me access to do it that way

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  30. #70
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Thank you.

    I dont have an engine mount but I'll come up with something creative:)

  31. #71
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Found time to get the f clutch out last night. To get at the bolts holding it in place I had to remove the thrust bearing and it broke. Adding a new one to the list of parts to order.

    IMG_20180322_235546.jpg

    What I was most concerned about was the condition of the piston but it's actually in great shaped.

    IMG_20180322_234917.jpg

    However, the surface on the cylinder has what appears to be surface cracks at the bottom and rear. At first I thought it was just remains from the casting but not sure anymore.

    Here is the inside bottom
    IMG_20180322_234837.jpg
    IMG_20180322_234826.jpg

    And the rear of the cylinder
    IMG_20180322_234849.jpg

    Ideas on what this could be? Replace?

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  32. #72
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I would definately replace it. Kinda looks like it got very hot? That looks bad. Any idea if this case has been apart b4?

    With respect to that rear bearing, it is a tough one. I actually welded a plate with a threaded hole onto it that allowed me to thread a large bolt in and against the case and draw it out. Either way a replacement was needed.

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  33. #73
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    I don't think it's been apart before. The gaskets are very brittle and old and some bolts suffer from metal fatigue. There is nothing in the service history but I cannot be sure.

    The b clutch drum hub has some scarring and I'm guessing this is from the broken a drum.

    IMG_20180323_000112.jpg

    I'm gonna check what this is in contact with but probably this will have to be replaced to?

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  34. #74
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Is the reverse light switch located on the transmission? The only thing that looks similar is what's labeled inductive sensor on the transfer box. Is that it?

    IMG_20180323_214541.jpg

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  35. #75
    Established Member Two Rings
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    That is a speed sensor of some type, I think reverse is signalled with the switch... I would replace those pieces that show marks. It's getting expensive, but I would only want to do the work once.... Just my opinion

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  36. #76
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    I want to do this right and I don't mind spending a little extra to achieve that:)

    What switch are you referring to? Is it on the transmission?
    The reverse lights don't come on so I thought I test the switch while at it.

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  37. #77
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Spoke to Gary Ferraro who is a real wizard on transmissions. Check out his youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWa...yLyQ7zjW9LF-xg

    The surface cracks on the f clutch are just from casting and are ok.

    The scarring on the b clutch drum is ok. It needs to be cleaned up and the b clutch friction plates replaced as metal flakes gets embedded in them.

  38. #78
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I would replace all the steels and frictions if it were me... I trust his opinion on the hard parts for sure. I have watched many of his videos and he knows his stuff

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  39. #79
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Have been going through the manuals but I cannot find a good reference for these blue valves. There one on the differential as well.

    Are they breather valves and will they have to be adjusted?

    IMG_20180323_201242.jpg

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  40. #80
    Established Member Two Rings
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    They are simply breathers, just don't break them. No adjustment necessary.

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