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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2014
    AZ Member #
    149450
    Location
    Atlanta

    P0322 - CPS Overheating?

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    Car is a 2002 A4 3.0 6MT 128k miles.

    Car wont start when warm, only code is P0322 - G28 no signal.

    I replaced the crank position sensor with a new one, and still car will stall/not srart when warm.

    I can easily reproduce the problem, just let idle for 15 minutes, turn off, no re-start for a few minutes. I can confirm in VCDS measuring blocks the RPMs are at 0 while cranking when it wont start, after cooling they show up immediately and we get a start.

    One other thing is that if it does start warm, it may idle at 1200 RPMs. I unplugged the MAF during a high idle to see what it would do.. the idle bounced all around and never stabilized.

    Is it possible the new sensor acts just like the first, but doesn't seem likely.

    So the questions..

    Could the wring or a connector be affected by the heat? Is there a 2nd connector near the firewall/ecu?
    Bad ECU?
    Other issue?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Established Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378564
    Location
    Western Canada

    That was generally a sign of a bad VR sensor, on the old audis if it wouldn't hot start, pour cold water on the crank sensor and try again... if it was the sensor dying it would start right away.

    Now a new one acting the same is pretty weird. The only connector in the path is the one you have to unplug to change the sensor, IIRC.

    Idling at 1200 sounds about right for a mostly dead sensor... that's EPC limp mode. EPC light is on I imagine? What brand sensor did you use?


    (the reason idle is high in limp mode is because the ECU quits trying to correct idle, and lets the throttle plate sit at 'failsafe' position.. which is a high idle... that why when you have a powered off TB it's open a touch.)



    Now - what is your hot start like? If it's like you have no spark at all, that is how a crank sensor failure is. If it starts but is weak and dies it could be something else.. maybe coolant sensor or something like that (bad mixture)

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2014
    AZ Member #
    149450
    Location
    Atlanta

    Thanks for the input. It just cranks over like no spark.

    I got a Genuine Audi sensor today. My first replacement sensor was from a reputable dealer but sold as "OEM Brand".. and looked like the Audi logo had been removed, so not sure what is up with that. The genuine one cost more than 2x as much.

    I tapped the wires to the sensor with a DMM, but it doesn't pick up any measurable voltage when running. The erWin manual says the 2 wire sensor would be an inductor that does not get power, but produces AC. Oddly, when the car wakes up (open door/put in key), I do see 5.45v DC at the connector with the sensor unplugged. With it plugged in, don't see anything. No idea how that works, maybe some stray voltage.

    Will install this weekend, and hopefully just learned a long leason about "OEM Brand" parts.

  4. #4
    Established Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378564
    Location
    Western Canada

    Yeah you'd mostly need an oscilloscope to see the signal. I don't think it has to be OEM, Bosch is good (and I imagine who supplies audi anyway)

    Though I see a lot of bosch - china stuff lately, I wonder if it is authentic from bosch plants in china, or fake, or...



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