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  1. #41
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc R View Post
    Maybe worth checking the fuelpump?
    That was on my checklist aswell....but one would think under full load then i would have the issues but runs perfect then.
    I let JD figuer it out i think.
    Current S6 C7 avant 2013: estoril | ceramics | JD engineering stage 2 | LightVan no backseats | Milltek non-res valved | 034 trans-diff mount |CETE ASCv2 & EVC | FL dynamic tails | Thermo ZO coated catless DP | Custom HX cooler (JD) | RS6 c6 matt gunmetal 20" wheels | custom tailgate spoiler & diffuser | Armor heatshielded mani-turbo-dp
    In development: R8GT steeringwheel | FIS controler (mmi gauges)

  2. #42
    Senior Member Four Rings Loe's Avatar
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    Aug 09 2015
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    '14 Audi S5, '18 BMW 540i
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dasquade View Post
    Afaik it doesnt make a difference in my case. There are days i cant trigger the powercuts, but if they happen it is always in that 'sweetspot'.
    Mind sharing why you think fuel tank capacity would mather?
    the on-set of high loads and the rear-end squatting when the tank is below the level of the fuel bucket could cause initial starvation until the equalization valve at the bottom of the bucket can provide sufficient fuel levels in the bucket. Try again at a full tank vs 1/2 tank vs. 1/4 tank to see if it's easier to trigger as the tank runs lower and lower. Just an 'out there' thought.

    If you have VCDS, you can log fueling to see if its simply a weak pump.
    -Loe- ('14 Audi S5 S-tronic )
    [10.930@127.38mph | +1209 ft. D/A | 3.371 PR]
    Technical discussions? JOIN ME!

  3. #43
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    Will try to log the fueling.....(are we taking fuel pressue or flow?). Sadely it is all a fraction of a second the stutter so all bit hard to log. Fact is i see my turbo boost guage go down and up when it happens, but even if it was fuel/ignition related, it would also still makes sense i suppose (can't hold boots if there is no continious pressure comming out the cylinders right?).

    So i tried to put camera under the hood looking down on one actuator wastegate arm to monitor if it acts smooth overall and specificly when the stutter happens....as i kinda wanted to know if under that particular load the wastegate keeps closed to keep feeding the turbo's.
    Was bit tricky (actually had to tape my cellphone to the outside windscreen as my endoscoop cable wasn't long enough...anyway :p).
    Bit hard to see, but it did kinda looked even under beginning soft boost the arm was flappering a bit, was even hard to check but if not mistaken i could see it move under the 70% load. No tech and afaik the wastegates purely work on vacuum pressure but would have tought the arm movement would go much smoother :s.
    I tried to check the vacuum hose but those are offcourse hidden in the plastic covers on top of the coils....
    Not sure if there is an option to check for vacuum leak on the wastegate in vcds? I did found a parameter called 'air leakage' and that was giving me a 2.5kg/h (if not mistaken with just the ignition on).
    Fact is, i find the tension on the wastegates arms are pretty soft, with engine off and with engine on (so purely the spring inside). Not sure if it is normal, but if i compair with my friends sti turbo (that pulls way less bar) his is much hard to move. Maybe i should go to dealer and asked their opinion on the tension (or go to showroom and test a brand new one :p).

    Maybe it is me but looks the forge wastegate isn't directly a swap part but more or an external blowoff? They were going to ask the techniciens for more info, don't want to buy a set if the issue are my stock ones (if that is the issue)....
    Current S6 C7 avant 2013: estoril | ceramics | JD engineering stage 2 | LightVan no backseats | Milltek non-res valved | 034 trans-diff mount |CETE ASCv2 & EVC | FL dynamic tails | Thermo ZO coated catless DP | Custom HX cooler (JD) | RS6 c6 matt gunmetal 20" wheels | custom tailgate spoiler & diffuser | Armor heatshielded mani-turbo-dp
    In development: R8GT steeringwheel | FIS controler (mmi gauges)

  4. #44
    Veteran Member Four Rings wwhan's Avatar
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    Mar 26 2010
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    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by Dasquade View Post
    Not sure if there is an option to check for vacuum leak on the wastegate in vcds? I did found a parameter called 'air leakage' and that was giving me a 2.5kg/h (if not mistaken with just the ignition on)....
    Fact is, i find the tension on the wastegates arms are pretty soft, with engine off and with engine on (so purely the spring inside). Not sure if it is normal, but if i compair with my friends sti turbo (that pulls way less bar) his is much hard to move. Maybe i should go to dealer and asked their opinion on the tension (or go to showroom and test a brand new one :p).
    ...
    You may want to check each wastegate vacuum diaphram for leakage with a vacuum tool. Also, the Recirculation Valve N427 & N249 may have a leakage or control issue.

    The SSP920223 document explains the Charge Pressure Regulation & Recirculating Air Control on page 62, 63.
    2016 S6 Sport, EPL, Eurocode Sways & Endlinks

  5. #45
    Established Member Two Rings lapsandwich's Avatar
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    Sep 28 2015
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    Langley BC Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by Dasquade View Post
    Will try to log the fueling.....(are we taking fuel pressue or flow?). Sadely it is all a fraction of a second the stutter so all bit hard to log. Fact is i see my turbo boost guage go down and up when it happens, but even if it was fuel/ignition related, it would also still makes sense i suppose (can't hold boots if there is no continious pressure comming out the cylinders right?).

    So i tried to put camera under the hood looking down on one actuator wastegate arm to monitor if it acts smooth overall and specificly when the stutter happens....as i kinda wanted to know if under that particular load the wastegate keeps closed to keep feeding the turbo's.
    Was bit tricky (actually had to tape my cellphone to the outside windscreen as my endoscoop cable wasn't long enough...anyway :p).
    Bit hard to see, but it did kinda looked even under beginning soft boost the arm was flappering a bit, was even hard to check but if not mistaken i could see it move under the 70% load. No tech and afaik the wastegates purely work on vacuum pressure but would have tought the arm movement would go much smoother :s.
    I tried to check the vacuum hose but those are offcourse hidden in the plastic covers on top of the coils....
    Not sure if there is an option to check for vacuum leak on the wastegate in vcds? I did found a parameter called 'air leakage' and that was giving me a 2.5kg/h (if not mistaken with just the ignition on).
    Fact is, i find the tension on the wastegates arms are pretty soft, with engine off and with engine on (so purely the spring inside). Not sure if it is normal, but if i compair with my friends sti turbo (that pulls way less bar) his is much hard to move. Maybe i should go to dealer and asked their opinion on the tension (or go to showroom and test a brand new one :p).

    Maybe it is me but looks the forge wastegate isn't directly a swap part but more or an external blowoff? They were going to ask the techniciens for more info, don't want to buy a set if the issue are my stock ones (if that is the issue)....
    The wastages on your car work differently then the STI. Our wastagtes are constantly open, under hard throttle a soliniod will actually close the wastegates to create boost in the 4.0T engine. The Subaru (and most modern turbo chargered gasoline engines) operate the exact opposite way. The wastegate spring holds the gate closed, and uses boost pressure to push the wastegate open at what ever desired level.

    I think I mentioned it in another one of your posts on here, but after just seeing it happen to another member I would check your turbos. Iím not even sure if itís a mileage issue. My car is sitting around 80,000kms and Iíve had compressor wheel contact on the housings of both Turbos. The dealership told me the turbos had no play in the cartridges which makes no sense how it happened in the first place, though they instantly blamed my tune. (Shocker)

    Wouldnít hurt to have a look in my opinion. Itís an easy enough job for a little piece of mind. Next thing you know itíll be a set of Rs turbos and Big dyno numbers.
    2014 S6 - 3" catless downpipes - HPA motorsports stage 2 - Aem methanol injection - Forge atmospheric Bovs

    2007 Ram 3500 - 5.9 cummins - 66mm turbo - built trans - mild fuel

  6. #46
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lapsandwich View Post
    The wastages on your car work differently then the STI. Our wastagtes are constantly open, under hard throttle a soliniod will actually close the wastegates to create boost in the 4.0T engine. The Subaru (and most modern turbo chargered gasoline engines) operate the exact opposite way. The wastegate spring holds the gate closed, and uses boost pressure to push the wastegate open at what ever desired level.

    I think I mentioned it in another one of your posts on here, but after just seeing it happen to another member I would check your turbos. Iím not even sure if itís a mileage issue. My car is sitting around 80,000kms and Iíve had compressor wheel contact on the housings of both Turbos. The dealership told me the turbos had no play in the cartridges which makes no sense how it happened in the first place, though they instantly blamed my tune. (Shocker)

    Wouldnít hurt to have a look in my opinion. Itís an easy enough job for a little piece of mind. Next thing you know itíll be a set of Rs turbos and Big dyno numbers.
    Yup my bad about the waste, bit a noob here but learning, they indeed work on vacuum compaired to pressure and i suppose that explains why our wastegates have less tension (one finguer tension).

    Pm'ed you about the turbos, but how can you visually check if the turbines are having contact with the house? After you told me last time i went in the intake side with cam but couldn't really look between the turbine fins and house. Taking of the intake tubes might help a bit, but beside the two bolts per pipe.....aren't the flanges not point welded to the turbo aswell?

    Hopefully offtopic, but yesterday i noticed my (grrrrss$$$****) milltek exhaust valve on the right got stuck. Year ago it was my left one, but got it fixed with lots of wd40, pulling the spring a bit and grinding the 'lip' a bit. Compaired to oem the milltek has a push in before open design where as stock there is no pushing downwards needed. I tried the right one today, feels much smoother BUT now it doesn't recalibrate correctly again. The actuator spins, opens the valve once but then stops (left side opens and closes twice). I used to have issue calibrating the left one year ago, untill i have up closed the car and heard it spin again and.....it worked perfectly ever since. Sadely the right one so far didn't work. Anybody knows the proper way to 'reinstall the actuators or calibrate'?

    While under the car, i also noticed my 3 bolts going from downpipe to exhaust all were loose!! Pain in the butt to access them, but hopefully tight again now (put an extra bolt on each). Not sure if that might contribute the the stutter....
    Current S6 C7 avant 2013: estoril | ceramics | JD engineering stage 2 | LightVan no backseats | Milltek non-res valved | 034 trans-diff mount |CETE ASCv2 & EVC | FL dynamic tails | Thermo ZO coated catless DP | Custom HX cooler (JD) | RS6 c6 matt gunmetal 20" wheels | custom tailgate spoiler & diffuser | Armor heatshielded mani-turbo-dp
    In development: R8GT steeringwheel | FIS controler (mmi gauges)

  7. #47
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2014
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    283720
    Location
    Newcastle

    Quote Originally Posted by Dasquade View Post
    Yup my bad about the waste, bit a noob here but learning, they indeed work on vacuum compaired to pressure and i suppose that explains why our wastegates have less tension (one finguer tension).

    Pm'ed you about the turbos, but how can you visually check if the turbines are having contact with the house? After you told me last time i went in the intake side with cam but couldn't really look between the turbine fins and house. Taking of the intake tubes might help a bit, but beside the two bolts per pipe.....aren't the flanges not point welded to the turbo aswell?

    Hopefully offtopic, but yesterday i noticed my (grrrrss$$$****) milltek exhaust valve on the right got stuck. Year ago it was my left one, but got it fixed with lots of wd40, pulling the spring a bit and grinding the 'lip' a bit. Compaired to oem the milltek has a push in before open design where as stock there is no pushing downwards needed. I tried the right one today, feels much smoother BUT now it doesn't recalibrate correctly again. The actuator spins, opens the valve once but then stops (left side opens and closes twice). I used to have issue calibrating the left one year ago, untill i have up closed the car and heard it spin again and.....it worked perfectly ever since. Sadely the right one so far didn't work. Anybody knows the proper way to 'reinstall the actuators or calibrate'?

    While under the car, i also noticed my 3 bolts going from downpipe to exhaust all were loose!! Pain in the butt to access them, but hopefully tight again now (put an extra bolt on each). Not sure if that might contribute the the stutter....
    No expert but I'm just guessing no seal in the downpipe might be an issue. Maybe someone far more knowledgeable could step in and answer. Man I feel your pain but drive to the tuner already you must have spent way more than 4 hours yourself.

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Audizine mobile app
    Audi S6 C7.5 Avant 2016 Sepang Blue APR Stage 1, Revo RS Intake, X-Pipe & Resonator Delete 560BHP 600 LB FT.

  8. #48
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    Belgium

    Holding wood and not going to said all too loud but....
    1. No more smelly exhaust fumes in cabine thanks to thighting up exhaust (that should have been a red flag indicator to begin with!! But tought normal on catless).
    2. Way more quietly in cabin, way less drome.
    3. No more vibration while building up boost
    4. Maybe the most important thing, sadely bit of traffic etc but i tried to recreate the powercuts in D in S in M under same circumstances like i always did, so far NO MORE powercuts. Night and day difference in smoothness once the turbos build up boost.

    Again i try to carefully post my words but hoping that was the issue!
    Do i feel stupid...offcourse. Anybody who mounted a milltek exhaust might kinda know they use bigger flex joins as stock making bolting stuff properly harder. No excuse offcourse, i did use gaskets between downpipes and exhaust (altough audi no longer uses them after 2014 afaik). Maybe it was my mistake for not retightning the bolts after 500km or so after exhaust work. But at least wanted to post my findings so it helps other (with simular powercuts).

    Now, just need to find a way to fix the right exhaust flap (gets stuck). Had it with the left flap before and holding up good bit now it is the right one!!!
    Milltek uses a spring pushing the flap upwards and the oem spring needs to counter press it downards to unlock it. Kinda makes no sense they added (oem doesnt have the upwards spring). Considering grinding off the tube thingy under exhaust that most likely contains that spring!!!
    Contacted milltek...
    Current S6 C7 avant 2013: estoril | ceramics | JD engineering stage 2 | LightVan no backseats | Milltek non-res valved | 034 trans-diff mount |CETE ASCv2 & EVC | FL dynamic tails | Thermo ZO coated catless DP | Custom HX cooler (JD) | RS6 c6 matt gunmetal 20" wheels | custom tailgate spoiler & diffuser | Armor heatshielded mani-turbo-dp
    In development: R8GT steeringwheel | FIS controler (mmi gauges)

  9. #49
    Established Member Two Rings Marc R's Avatar
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    Jan 29 2017
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    Amsterdam

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    RS4 B5 mingblue 650 hp
    Mercedes W124 E500 Limited
    Audi S6 4G stage 3 RS6 steering wheel RS5 20" RS6 exhaust..610 WHP and more to come

  10. #50
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    So yesterday going back home, did some more testing. The car would still stutter a bit, but i might of semi pushed it bit too early (semi warm engine) AND i was on a very low fuel tank.
    Today went filling the tank (98 + 1/10 100% bio ethanol), made sure the car was warm....perfect rocket again.
    Makes me wondering if fuel level indeed comes into play and maybe fuel tank contains 'dirt'. Not sure if there is a way to clean the tank somehow (pump the bottom of tank) and maybe replace fuel filter?

    Never the less, think the exhaust was the main issue. Still planning to go through with the software and tune update.
    Keeping logging my misfires aswell.

    Just need to find how to fix those milltek exhaust valves :(.
    Current S6 C7 avant 2013: estoril | ceramics | JD engineering stage 2 | LightVan no backseats | Milltek non-res valved | 034 trans-diff mount |CETE ASCv2 & EVC | FL dynamic tails | Thermo ZO coated catless DP | Custom HX cooler (JD) | RS6 c6 matt gunmetal 20" wheels | custom tailgate spoiler & diffuser | Armor heatshielded mani-turbo-dp
    In development: R8GT steeringwheel | FIS controler (mmi gauges)

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