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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings BARRY's Avatar
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    Green Coolant Do I Need to Flush?

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    Hey guys...my mechanic used "European Coolant" for my car when he pulled my head to rebuild it last. This coolant was green in color so I assume its the same as Prestone stuff?

    Anyway...assuming it is, do I need to use a flushing solution to remove prior to changing over to G12++ to prevent sludge/gelling? I have already completed 2 drain and fills with plain water, but still have a green tinge to the fluid.

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I would. To my understanding, the 2 mixed together can potentially wreak havoc on the entire cooling system. I would continue to refill (using distilled water), bring up to temp then drain until only pink/lilac goodness is present. Just my 2 cents.

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by BARRY View Post
    Hey guys...my mechanic used "European Coolant" for my car when he pulled my head to rebuild it last. This coolant was green in color so I assume its the same as Prestone stuff?

    Anyway...assuming it is, do I need to use a flushing solution to remove prior to changing over to G12++ to prevent sludge/gelling? I have already completed 2 drain and fills with plain water, but still have a green tinge to the fluid.

    Thanks!
    Yes, flush it!! You can use the flushing solution however water would be safe also. As long as you keep filling and draining till the pink stuff starts coming out solid. The cooling system does not like the regular coolant (green stuff). I read somewhere on the internet on what happened to the car when they used Prestone on the Audi’s. Premature wear on many of the parts like water pump.


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
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    This came out of my 1.8t the other day. I removed the reservoir and ran water through the hoses till it came clear our the bottom rad. Then disconnected the top heater core hose near the battery and flushed it both ways with the hose until it came out clear. The timing belt and pump is coming off, and will see if its still clear, but I will definitely be running a few heat cycles with just water before dropping the G12 in.
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
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  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring
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    Yeah definitely the wrong stuff in there...


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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
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    South Bay, CA

    Green stuff corrodes aluminum from the inside out. Coolant passages eroded like a mofo and the propensity for cracks to occur increase by a factor of 3x. Make sure you do a full flush out of the core as well.


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    I dont know if the green stuff corrodes aluminum anymore than anyother coolant, I ran it fine in all my buicks for years without issue, it always came out clean. The only thing i want to avoid is mixing the two. There is plenty of discussion on it, just dont mix it. Whats the worst that can happen, maybe gelling(usually when mixed with older G11), some film build up in the reservoir tank, which then might lead to deposits and plug cores after 5 years, which happens with regular G12 anyways in 10 years. But even still nothing that is going to kill your motor. People look at the green stuff and think the worst. I have yet to see a completely plugged coolant passage like this:

    That was from a Buick I picked up that had the orange Dex-cool in it at the time of service. That stuff I avoid and so does most of the 3.8 community. If someone can show me a picture of that on anything german while using green coolant, then I'd be concerned.
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings texasboy21's Avatar
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    When you drain the fluid only about half actually drains out. To completely rid the system of the green coolant drain the system, and refill to capacity with distilled water. Next get the car to operating temp and drain again. Repeat until the fluid being drained is clear/clean water, and then fill to capacity with G12/13 undiluted coolant - the remaining distilled water will create a 50/50 mix.
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings ADCS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
    When you drain the fluid only about half actually drains out. To completely rid the system of the green coolant drain the system, and refill to capacity with distilled water. Next get the car to operating temp and drain again. Repeat until the fluid being drained is clear/clean water, and then fill to capacity with G12/13 undiluted coolant - the remaining distilled water will create a 50/50 mix.
    This.
    Took 5 full fill/drain cycles with distilled water to get all clear fluid out for me.
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    if you're just flushing, don't bother with distilled. It won't be in there long enough for the trace minerals to cause any harm. but yea 4-5 times refilling and letting the car get to temp so it fully circulates should be good. then fill with G12/13.
    -CP
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings BARRY's Avatar
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    i'm on my third fill and it looks clear...will observe more later today or tomorrow.

    there was a video on youtube that i cannot find anymore. the video tested all types of coolants with a piece of aluminum and an electrical current. G12 type fluids lasted longer without corrosion to the metal. green coolant wasn't to bad...forgot how dexcool faired.

    in regards to the crud in the coolant passages...i'd say most if not all cars from the 80's seem to have this same problem. maybe coolant prior to the 90's was just garbage which i wouldn't doubt.

    here is what DexCool does to cooling systems. YUCK!
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings BARRY's Avatar
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    ohhhh yaaaaaaaa thats the test. i could have sworn there was a video somewhere. anyway thank you for that link! very very good info!
    2007 Mercedes E63 AMG - Nardo Grey, Pano, LTH X-Pipe, Res Del, ROW Box Mod, Programa ELM, UPD Arms
    2003 Audi A4 1.8t Q Avant - Maestro, 225TT Inj, TP, FMIC, Thermal R&D Exh, KW V3, BBK / Ferrodo DS2500
    1992 SC400 - LS2 6.0, LTH, Tomei 2-Way, KW V3, BattleVersion Arms
    1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S SOLD - 20 Valve, Haltech E8, Toda 272 8.5mm, Toda Cam Gears, Silkroad High Rise Headers, TRD 2-Way, TRD SS Race

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Green coolant uses a silicate-based corrosion inhibitor that coats the metal. Over time, these inhibitors break down, requiring a coolant flush every 30k miles or so. In an aluminum engine, green coolant does not change color when it breaks down; so many owners have no idea when this has actually occurred until their nice expensive aluminum heads have cracked or corroded. This has been documented.


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