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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    quick tips to remove oxidation on brakes?

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    so i was replacing my front brake pads/rotors the other day and managed to cross-thread one of the caliper guide pins.
    bought 2 new oem guide pins and managed to find a front caliper carrier on ebay from a donor car in MN for a good price...
    only problem is there is some light surface-level rust on the exposed parts due to living in the snow. i've never attempted to treat any kind of rust before and rather than just go to town with a wire brush and doing damage, i thought i'd ask anyone with experience for any tips&tricks for this kind of stuff? or chemicals that work well?

    pics:


  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings deusilan's Avatar
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    Get a container big enough to dip the brackets in, and fill that container with white vinegar. Put the brackets in and let it sit for a few hours (possibly a day, not sure on this.)
    Give it a quick hit with the wire brush to clean any dirt particles still on it and it'll be like new.
    Currently: 2005.5 A4 2.0 (Red)TQ 6-spd, WORK IN PROGRESS
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
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    Or invest in a compressor and sandblasting kit and do it yourself that way.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings dalmation53's Avatar
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    The cheap way that works is wire brush then primer it. Then paint it silver for oem look or a color of your choice.

    Sent from my SM-G925T using Audizine mobile app
    Ivan

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    thanks for the suggestions guys! will definitely try out each one of these assuming the other doesn't work lol

  6. #6
    Established Member Three Rings tloft4's Avatar
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    Was gonna say soak in clr, anything abrasive you'd have to refinish or it'll probably just happen again sooner. Still can't hurt to add another layer after

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  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    treat it in RANEX, prime and then use an epoxy filler surfacer. This will smooth them out. Otherwise, wire brush on drill, strip back, prime and paint.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj. + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + db840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

  8. #8
    Registered Member One Ring
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    quick tips to remove oxidation on brakes?

    Start with the least invasive procedure, then escalate as needed. I would do what deusilan suggested first. Be gentle with the brush, you’re just trying to knock the rust off, not dig it out. And understand that rust will likely return at some point.

    If you decide to paint, be sure to plug the guide pin holes with some sacrificial pins, and the threaded holes with bolts. Those surfaces need to remain clean and free of debris and paint.

    M.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    If you soak in a mild organic acid solution such as vinegar or citric acid, it will take the rust off fairly painlessly but will also leave the surface prone to rusting again very quickly unless your paint or powder coat them.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    which is why you use ranex, which is phosphoric acid creating a protective phosphate coating prior to paint.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj. + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + db840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

  11. #11
    Established Member Three Rings mgfranz's Avatar
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    Of you want to completely remove the rust, make a solution of 6:1 Of water and muriatic acid. Let it soak overnight, let dry then prime/paint with Rustolium. I use to do this all the time with old tools and parts.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Do not use hydrochloric acid, you will get chlorine fumes that can cause all kinds of issues.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj. + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + db840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

  13. #13
    Established Member Three Rings mgfranz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Do not use hydrochloric acid, you will get chlorine fumes that can cause all kinds of issues.
    Really? Like what? Most intelligent people know to use such a solution outside and in a well venteladed environment. I have never had a problem as long as I use it in my garage.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Four Rings onedumslack's Avatar
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    Evaporust and a wire wheel turned this:

    To this:

  15. #15
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgfranz View Post
    Really? Like what? Most intelligent people know to use such a solution outside and in a well venteladed environment. I have never had a problem as long as I use it in my garage.
    Because sulfuric and hydrochloric acids leave the metal in a reactive state. In fact they'll rust faster than if you had done nothing after a while. Phosphoric chemically changes the metals to a non-destructive form of rust, and ethanedioc acid chelates the rust without chemically changing the parent metal.

    Either way, hydrochloric is by far the worst choice out of the available organic or mineral acids.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by onedumslack View Post
    Evaporust and a wire wheel turned this:

    To this:
    looks good mate!
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj. + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + db840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

  16. #16
    Established Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    dude its a brake carrier, bolt it on and drive already.
    2014 Nissan Murano
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    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings 1killera4's Avatar
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    And there you have it

  18. #18
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Evaporust is great stuff! I have used it many times while restoring old bicycles. It has never let me down.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onedumslack View Post
    Evaporust and a wire wheel turned this:

    To this:
    I was also going to suggest Evaporust. Stuff is magical!
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
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  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    well bittersweet news...

    first, thanks for all the new suggestions u guys mentioned! i'll keep ranex and evaporust in mind next time i deal with rusty parts.

    i ended up doing a bit of a mixture of the suggestions - choosing the vinegar, brush, primer/paint option cuz i was scared of flash rust. soaked the carrier in a bucket of white vinegar for about 36 hrs and hit it with the wire brush and was super impressed with the results!

    after paint:


    Quote Originally Posted by mherington View Post
    If you decide to paint, be sure to plug the guide pin holes with some sacrificial pins, and the threaded holes with bolts. Those surfaces need to remain clean and free of debris and paint.
    boy, do i wish i saw ur response first before painting!! cause i definitely got paint in the threads as u can see (i am a n00b at painting, sry). after about an hr as i was test-driving everything my brake assembly got knocked loose! lost one of the torx bolts on the caliper (the shorter ones) and one of the 21mm bolts for the carrier. luckily nothing got cross-threaded on the "new" carrier, but that other 21mm was hanging on for dear life! and i shudder to think what would've happened if it finally unscrewed loose as i was crawling back home. this only happened on the driver side which has the newly painted carrier, and i doubt it's because i didn't tighten everything properly. is it the paint's fault?

  21. #21
    Established Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    these things aren't painted for a reason . you tightened up against the paint , carrier got hot . paint melted, bolts came loose.
    2014 Nissan Murano
    2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    these things aren't painted for a reason . you tightened up against the paint , carrier got hot . paint melted, bolts came loose.
    anything i can do or am i fucked and should just put the old one back on without guide pins?

    also i can't find replacement torx bolts on ecs or europaparts. anyone know where, or should i special order from audi?

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Wait you undid the torx bolts on the back of the caliper? 1) You shouldn’t have done that (that goddamn DIY needs to be removed.....) 2) you can’t buy those separately. You might be boned here...
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    Wait you undid the torx bolts on the back of the caliper? 1) You shouldn’t have done that (that goddamn DIY needs to be removed.....) 2) you can’t buy those separately. You might be boned here...
    no i think when the hex bolt came loose and the caliper was loose to move around, the torx bolt managed to unscrew itself as well... definitely not on purpose

    but yeah i undid those when i was replacing the pads/rotors. it's not just the audizine diy, some of the youtube videos recommended it as well - it does make the piston easier to retract from what i could tell

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Yea but they’re not supposed to be removed. Did you use locktite on them? Those definitely need blue locktite.

    It’s not hard to retract the piston anyway so making an easy task easier at the expense of your caliper maybe splitting in half...doesn’t seem worth it to me..
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
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    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
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  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    Yea but they’re not supposed to be removed. Did you use locktite on them? Those definitely need blue locktite.

    It’s not hard to retract the piston anyway so making an easy task easier at the expense of your caliper maybe splitting in half...doesn’t seem worth it to me..
    no... never done that for any pad changes before, but will definitely be doing it now and to the passenger side as well. would loctite work on the painted threads too?

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Blue locktite on the slider pins and the carrier bolts if you remove those. Also torque to the right spec. Better safe than sorry with brakes.
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
    2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    Blue locktite on the slider pins and the carrier bolts if you remove those. Also torque to the right spec. Better safe than sorry with brakes.
    thanks! i agree. it's what i was going for, hence why i upgraded rotors - but that's what i get for trying to do everything myself with zero help lol

    now to find those torx bolts...... lmao anyone got a spare??

  29. #29
    Established Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    were you doing front or back brakes ? I am assuming front as you don't need to even remove carrier to do rears.

    Anyway you are just going to have check torque periodically now.
    But I agre with Charles , if there is that DIY still there to replace brakes by disassembling caliper someone needs to be shot at IB as it shoud have been removed long ago.

    I made a rear brake DIY to replace it but I guess I don't have cred around here :)

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ht=rear+brakes
    2014 Nissan Murano
    2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360

  30. #30
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    admins seem to not be very involved here tbh
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj. + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + db840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

  31. #31
    Established Member Two Rings chrisftl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    were you doing front or back brakes ? I am assuming front as you don't need to even remove carrier to do rears.

    Anyway you are just going to have check torque periodically now.
    But I agre with Charles , if there is that DIY still there to replace brakes by disassembling caliper someone needs to be shot at IB as it shoud have been removed long ago.

    I made a rear brake DIY to replace it but I guess I don't have cred around here :)

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ht=rear+brakes
    yeah it was front driver side i've been having issues. ill have to do that as well as hopefully get a wire brush small enough to fit in the bolt holes and hit it with a little acetone, followed by loctite - i think that's my best case for now.

    and yeah that diy is the first hit on google every time - pictures don't even work anymore cuz photobucket is RIP

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    If you have a metric tap set, you could find the right size and run that through to clean the threads. Or maybe just run the bolt in and out a bunch to try to get as much paint off as you can.
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
    2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    admins seem to not be very involved here tbh
    Yea, for better and worse.

    I'm sure if we made a concerted effort and everyone reported the post as dangerous or whatever, they could archive or delete the thread. But that would require organization and effort. Something most of us lack, haha.
    -CP
    2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - Bosch FR6KPP332S plugs - Q5 Rear Aero Wiper
    2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  34. #34
    Senior Member Two Rings Van Black's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    If you have a metric tap set, you could find the right size and run that through to clean the threads. Or maybe just run the bolt in and out a bunch to try to get as much paint off as you can.
    If there's no tap you could just use an extra bolt, cut 2 or 3 grooves in line with its axis before fitting it. it will do a much better job than just bolting and unbolting it
    -Alex-

    07 A4 2.0 TFSI Quattro,Rebuilt engine, BPG pistons, S-Line interior, S-Line suspension & brakes, RNS-E & Bose

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