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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Car not shifting into gear, need some advice

    Ok, help me out here fellas

    Took the car out for a cruise yesterday for about an hour, car drove fine the entire time from what I recall. As I got closer to home I decided to stop for gas. Get in the car start her up, go to place the car in first and nothing. Its like something it stopping the shifter from moving all the way to where it has to go. Feels this way in every gear. If I go to put the car In reverse I get a very slight grinding noise. If I turn the car off, it goes into all the gears just like it did before this issue. If I start the car with it in first and the clutch all the way down, the car moves forward and wont come out of first, like the clutch isn't being pushed in enough to get to the release point (even though the clutch is in) Prior to this car drove fine. Talked to a few guys and we all seemed to cancel out it being an internal issue. Some guys say throw out bearing other say clutch slave. My question when the slave was mentioned is "but wouldn't the pedal feel funny?" A ,lot of guys said no theirs felt normal and the slave ended up shitting the bed.

    Any thoughts?
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    '07 Volvo S60R Cavalli Turbo, '93 Mustang Cobra Twin Turbo 347cid, '01 B5 S4 Tial 605's
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    Clutch is not disengaging. Slave cylinder is likely culprit. Does the pedal feel mushy? Check for hydraulic fluid leak under the trans. The slave is on the top driver side of the trans and fluid will drip down that side of the trans. Master could also be shot, but less likely. Same for the hose that runs from the master to the slave - less likely though. Otherwise, you could have an issue with the pressure plate (like loose bolts for example - ask me how I know), pressure plate mechanical failure, throw out bearing is shot, clutch fork is bent or something wrong with the clutch fork pivot/mount. Did you drive the car hard before this at all? If not, I'd lean towards it being hydraulic issue and the slave being the likely source. How old is the clutch?
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Nope pedal feels fine, nothing out of the ordinary. I didn't see anything leaking yesterday but I will check again tonight when I get back to the house, maybe its a slow leak. Just took it for a cruise not really hard driving, only getting on it once already in a gear, no hard shifts. Clutch set up maybe has 30k?
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  4. #4
    Established Member Three Rings JustManson's Avatar
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    Definitely clutch is stuck in engagement.

    If it was the slave the pedal would be on floor and a good amount of fluid would have been on the ground.

    If you still have normal pedal, you have a pressure plate issue for sure.

    I along with Element have had trans/clutch issues for the last year ... which Sucks! ...and for sure it's the pressure plate.

    Loose pressure plate bolts would cause this, also a fused clutch disc, or bent clutch fork.

    Time to drop the trans and get that clutch off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Try putting it in 3rd gear and starting it, if its a fused disc then this might free it .

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I guess that would be better than a bad trans, even though its the same amount of work lol
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Ill give that a go
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    '07 Volvo S60R Cavalli Turbo, '93 Mustang Cobra Twin Turbo 347cid, '01 B5 S4 Tial 605's
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    I asked about your driving style because yes you can fuse a clutch to flywheel if you launch it hard and slip the crap out of the clutch. You literally sinter the clutch disc to the flwyheel/pressure plate. It should not do that unless driven hard. Puck style clutches are less prone to it than full face.

    My issue started with a brand new AMD Stg 3+ clutch (well 1k break-in miles on it technically at this point). I did not know that the pressure plate would literally back the bolts out over time. I torqued them to Audi spec + Loctite, but this was not enough. AMD does not tell you that when you buy the clutch which is absurd considering many people have found out the hard way and had to remove the entire trans again to overtighten them so they don't back out. Of course, you don't learn this until it happens to you. Had there been a little piece of paper with the clutch that said the factory torque spec was insufficient, I would have taken heed. So I had to pay a shop a grand to drop the trans, confirm the issue and tighten the bolts and then find out that they didn't properly adjust the PP SAC mechanism before reassembly so had to do it again. Thanks AMD!
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
    I asked about your driving style because yes you can fuse a clutch to flywheel if you launch it hard and slip the crap out of the clutch. You literally sinter the clutch disc to the flwyheel/pressure plate. It should not do that unless driven hard. Puck style clutches are less prone to it than full face.

    My issue started with a brand new AMD Stg 3+ clutch (well 1k break-in miles on it technically at this point). I did not know that the pressure plate would literally back the bolts out over time. I torqued them to Audi spec + Loctite, but this was not enough. AMD does not tell you that when you buy the clutch which is absurd considering many people have found out the hard way and had to remove the entire trans again to overtighten them so they don't back out. Of course, you don't learn this until it happens to you. Had there been a little piece of paper with the clutch that said the factory torque spec was insufficient, I would have taken heed. So I had to pay a shop a grand to drop the trans, confirm the issue and tighten the bolts and then find out that they didn't properly adjust the PP SAC mechanism before reassembly so had to do it again. Thanks AMD!
    Damn that doesn't sound fun. But know I don't do that kind driving. I have never launched a car ever lol. I am more of a cruiser lmao
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings rclaus's Avatar
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    Had a similar issue on my car. Owner before me installed a Southbend stage 3 enduro clutch and didn't break it in properly. Had to replace the clutch and pressure plate with less than 6,000 miles on them because the clutch kept welding itself to the flywheel. If you need to move the vehicle, start the car with it in gear and your foot on the brake.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    Stop granny shiftin' and not double clutchin' like ya suppose to...

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacDaddy View Post
    Stop granny shiftin' and not double clutchin' like ya suppose to...
    Yep. This happened to my grandma.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by JVD View Post
    Yep. This happened to my grandma.
    This honestly made me lol

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I tried checking it out last night.

    No leaks at the slave or master
    If I start the car in first I can drive it in all the gears but if I go to go back into first or reverse it wont go. There is a buzzing noise when trying to put the car in reverse. When the car is off I can preety much row through all the gears
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    '07 Volvo S60R Cavalli Turbo, '93 Mustang Cobra Twin Turbo 347cid, '01 B5 S4 Tial 605's
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    When you say you can drive it in all the gears, you mean shift by rev matching (i.e., clutch still doesn't disengage) - correct?

    Downshifting into first is going to be challenging via rev matching. You should be able to do it, but it's going to be tough. There's really no way to rev match into reverse unless you roll backwards down a hill so you'd have to start the car in reverse to go backwards, stop, shut car off, put into first then start again and move forward. This is just how you would drive the car with a clutch that won't disengage. It's not ideal and you don't want to do it forever.

    Did you try to load it up in a high gear to see if the clutch is fused and will break loose? Like find a back road, go in 4th gear although 3rd may work too.... low rpm and stomp on the gas. Sometimes a bit of jerking the car helps to unseat it. But, based on your driving style if you weren't getting on the car hard then it shouldn't be fused. If the hydraulics are good, that leaves pressure plate mechanical failure, throw out bearing is shot, clutch fork is bent or something wrong with the clutch fork pivot/mount.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Well. When I say going into gear, I mean I was using the clutch, I didn't try shifting without using the clutch all tho I did pull it out of 3rd without putting the clutch in. Now being I was using the clutch it can very well be it wasn't working like it should and the act of pressing the clutch was making me think it was working. It did seem a little "off" when I would change gears When I say not going into first or reverse while driving I meant that if I was driving and came to a stop sign I wouldn't be able to get into first to start again and if I came to a stop I wouldn't be able to go in reverse.

    I was thinking to myself last night. At one point last month I hit a pretty bad bump in the road due top road milling. After that I noticed a vibration in the clutch pedal when I would put the clutch down. Now besides that all was normal. When this happened on sunday I put the clutch in to start the car and I heard a "Ping" and than this issue started. I am starting to lean towards its a clutch related issue. Someone said maybe the PP cracked and a spring popped out. I cant see how a transmission would work and than brake while the car is parked.

    I'm going to order a new clutch kit and start from there. When I drop the trans and I see something is broke that cool. but If I change the clutch and the issue is still there, the car is done for the year and its getting pushed into my garage till I can get a new/ rebuilt tdi trans. People are saying they have trans for $600 with 150k on them and I'm not paying that much for that milage.
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    '07 Volvo S60R Cavalli Turbo, '93 Mustang Cobra Twin Turbo 347cid, '01 B5 S4 Tial 605's
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    You could have something broken in there that's preventing disengagement. The vibration in the pedal does point towards something wrong with the clutch or release bearing.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  18. #18
    Established Member Three Rings JustManson's Avatar
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    Take it apart.

    Sounds like you at least know it's time to drop the trans.

    Good luck and post back if you have questions relating to removal. I've done mine twice in the last 6 months.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Yep I set a date with my buddy at his shop to use a lift. I'm just trying to figure it so I have the parts for when I take it apart. I have ever limited amount of free time to work on the car. I'm in the middle of remodeling a house my future wife and I just purchased and finishing final details for our wedding in November. This issue was the last thing I needed lol
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings rclaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pee quu View Post
    Yep I set a date with my buddy at his shop to use a lift. I'm just trying to figure it so I have the parts for when I take it apart. I have ever limited amount of free time to work on the car. I'm in the middle of remodeling a house my future wife and I just purchased and finishing final details for our wedding in November. This issue was the last thing I needed lol
    Good luck! hopefully all works out and anything that needs to be replaced will come with the clutch kit. All I can stress though is make sure you take the time and break your clutch in.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Yeah I'm getting the clutch kit, replacing the slave again just incase and getting no fork and pivot. Out of all the years I have worked on car this will be my first NEW clutch replacement. I drive like a grandma but I will be make sure to properly break it in
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Had similar symptoms to this last year. Replaced slave and master x2 each.

    Took a break from cars to move into a new place and am getting back to it this week. I'm almost positive there's going to be some sort of pressure plate/TOB issue when it comes out.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I have a gut feeling about that too.

    So getting back to the break in. I'm going with the RS4 set up, which is what I have now. it needs a 500 miles break in period?
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  24. #24
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by pee quu View Post
    I have a gut feeling about that too.

    So getting back to the break in. I'm going with the RS4 set up, which is what I have now. it needs a 500 miles break in period?
    I would argue that ALL CLUTCHES need at least a 500 mile break in to burn off all resins and wear down irregularities in the friction surfaces of the pp and fw. The only exception to this would be a sintered iron clutch disc, which are not streetable clutches and used primarily for drag racing.

    There's many posts out there about how to properly break in a clutch, but the summary is basically drive it gently, with lots of stop and go (ie. 500 miles of constant freeway isn't going to break in a new clutch at all) and no launching, high rpm shifts, and definitely no no-lift-shifts.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    stop and go like stops signs or stop and go in rush our traffic on the highway lmao cus if I can do stop and go traffic highway I can rack up 500 miles real fast in NYC lmao and have a ripped left leg lmao
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    And I would like to thank everyone in here for all their in put! didn't think id get this much help in 24 hours appreciate it fellas
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  27. #27
    Established Member Three Rings JustManson's Avatar
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    500 miles of everyday driving on street. Not highway driving along the whole time.

    Couple trips In the city ought to do it!

    As stated take it easy lots of shifts, low rpm, cruise and enjoy the ride.

    Then pound the shit of it after 500 LOL.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    I personally prefer 1000 miles of break-in and that includes a mix of driving conditions but you could probably get away with 500 miles of mixed driving.

    As for pulling the trans, do yourself a favor and order some grease for the CV joints, 2 inner CV joint gaskets (they frequently tear when you pull the axles), and 2 axle bolts (they are torque to yield so should not be re-used). Of course, new flywheel and pressure plate bolts go without saying. Loctite all of these bolts! Use red on the PP bolts. The flywheel bolts should come pre-lubed with dry blue loctite. I personally re-use driveshaft bolts just loc-tite them - be careful not to strip these out when removing. Might be a good time to change the trans fluid while you're at it. Redline or Amsoil are good options.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I had dropped the trans a little under two years ago to do the rear main seal so dropping the trans isn't anything new and did the whole v8 and trans swap 4 years ago. I really don't even plan on taking the fkywheel off but I already ordered new PP bolts, new fork, new pivot for the fork and I am going to warranty out the metal slave just cus its under warranty through my job
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings rclaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pee quu View Post
    I had dropped the trans a little under two years ago to do the rear main seal so dropping the trans isn't anything new and did the whole v8 and trans swap 4 years ago. I really don't even plan on taking the fkywheel off but I already ordered new PP bolts, new fork, new pivot for the fork and I am going to warranty out the metal slave just cus its under warranty through my job
    If you replace flywheel, either go with an OEM dual mass, or a steel single mass flywheel. Yes you can resurface a dual mass flywheel, but I have heard that this can cause vibrations if it isn't balanced right.

    Avoid aluminum single mass flywheels. I was told South Bend doesn't warranty clutches if you use a single mass light weight aluminum flywheel because it typically wears the clutch quicker and can cause overheating of the clutch (thus being back to square one where it could be welding itself to the flywheel again).

  31. #31
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    Should go like butter then. I would cut the flywheel at minimum personally.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I'm gonna see what it looks like. from what I remember when we did the rear main seal job it looked real good and I don't put many miles on the car. So I'm hoping when I take everything out its just the clutch/pp or TOB

    you can cut a DMF?
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    IF I do anything it will get replaced with what ever is in the car now. know the set up works so I'm not going to start messing with other options
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    If my clutch master went bad would the clutch pedal still feel normal? wondering if I should try and change that first before I rip the trans out tomorrow
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Found two loose bolts on my pressure plate when I disassembled.

    I don't think yours is a hydraulic issue.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I don't think so either, just thinking of everything . Tomorrow is the day we find out if the car stays locked in the garage for a while or I get to enjoy it the rest of the summer lol
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  37. #37
    Senior Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
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    I initially tried replacing the master in my car even though there were no visual leaks (and I had previously replaced the slave about 1k miles before), but turned out to be loose PP bolts. The master was a lot easier than pulling the trans but still a PITA. One thought - you can drill an inspection hole (1/2" diameter preferably) in the bottom of the trans case near the clutch and get an inspection camera in there to see the fork/bearing/PP. I did this on mine when the clutch wouldn't release after my indy reinstalled the clutch but didn't set the SAC mechanism properly. I was able to see the SAC mechanism was at the "fully worn" state through the inspection hole using a cheap inspection camera... you can get them from Harbor Freight ($40 or so) or just get the USB type online (Amazon for instance) for $10 or so and plug it into a laptop.

    Just be sure you don't drill into the trans guts. You want to stay around the clutch area.

    Or just pull the trans and skip the above. Up to you.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    I'm starting tomorrow at like 8am and plan on working ALL DAY. I think I can get the trans down and back up in that time. If not I left Sat free to work on the car just incase also. As I mentioned I did a rear main seal iand that's a little more work one the trans is dropped. If the fly wheel looks ok I am not even going to take it off
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Youd prob feel a bad tob in the pedal, they usually rumble when they get funky.

    A ping could have been the diaphragm spring in there cracking, but the pedal would get real easy to push afterward.

    The plastic pivot on the lever opposite the slave breaking could make things difficult. Slave will have to extend further and can pop them.

    One or more of these little fingers are mia more often than not when I have done clutches.
    Not sure where they go, but I have never found one in the bellhousing. One could come off and jam up the works.
    There should be 3 of these. The one at 6 'o clock in this pic is a goner.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  40. #40
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    329604
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ

    They fall out of the holes around the bellhousing rob. When mine broke it snagged one of the springs on the sac mechanism and stretched it out causing a loud ticking noise that increased with engine speed. When I opened it up, the missing finger was still in the bellhousing, but I imagine I discovered it right when it broke because it snagged that spring, giving me an audible sign it needed attention.

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