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  1. #1
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Adventures with timing

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    So I've had a bit of a rattle on startups all winter... sometimes worse than others.... sounds like the infamous guide is at its wits end... I've ordered some parts and am going to start on the pull and timing service of my B7.... she's got 201k km on the clock and I think that it's been good so far.. I'm going to be doing a couple of other things along with this job and am going to try my best to post up the job as I can... it may be only once I'm done that I can throw up some more info.

    Here's what's planned.
    Chase down some minor oil leaks (oil cooler o-rings specifically).
    Check valves and valley pan gasket.
    new engine mounts (034 street density).
    new snub mount.
    PCV valve.
    Mechanical adjuster rebuild (JHM).
    upgrade lower left rail with RS4 metal guide.
    new chains.
    new guides.
    new tensioners.
    new alternator belt.
    new valve cover gaskets.
    Edit 4/30/2017 - new A/C compressor, accumulator and orifice tube.
    Edit 4/30/2017 - new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.

    There are other jobs that I would like to do at this time, but it looks like my wife is going to be driving the S4 more in the future so I'll be holding off on:
    Intake Spacers (I know I'm in there but it's really not needed). - Edit 4/30/2017 - Getting the intake spacers
    JHM solid short throw shifter.
    JHM light weight crank pully and 6-rib belt / pully / tensioner upgrade.
    Catch can installation.
    Hotchkis swaybars
    Rear dif mount.

    I'm kinda on the fence about doing the A/C compressor because I know that it's easy to get at and work on with the engine out, however I'm not 100% sure that it's a bad compressor, either way I'm going to have my mechanic take a quick peek when I have him drain the A/C system... if it's the compressor I'll likely rush one in to replace it while I have the car on blocks.

    Wish me luck and as always I'm open to advice from anyone with good/bad experiences with this.
    Last edited by roboto_1337; 04-30-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    1991 Escort Wagon
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    Typically you probably won't need the chains, as long as you mark them as to which direction they go.
    Old Geezer, formerly known as Stud Muffin

  3. #3
    Established Member Three Rings Terry.Reese's Avatar
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    2005 Audi Allroad 2.7 Biturbo V6
    Location
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    Never a bad thing to refresh chains, some can get stretched over time. And most kits come with them already. but that is personal preference.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings richB7S4's Avatar
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    Jul 16 2013
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    Even if your A/C compressor is good. Consider when they were last replaced. If it is still the stock one and with your mileage, might consider replacing it nevertheless. It is a big job to replace the compressor. Save on the labor now rather than pay more in the near future to replace the compressor.

    Also don't forget the engine coolant temperature sensor. The location is a PITA and with the engine out it makes it easy.

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  5. #5
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    So, I thought that I would have some parts coming in today... so as to not get too far ahead of myself I'm pumping the brakes until Monday to start. Spoke with my mechanic (VW, Audi, Porsche specialist) about the A/C his opinion was that 90% of A/C problems are leaks.... I needed to de-inventory the refrigerant anyway so we took a look and I still had over 80% in the system... He suspects (at a glance) that it is the compressor due to the fact that this is a common problem on these vehicles... only issue is now that due to time constraints I think I'm going to push off the compressor work until late May.

    I was going to use the original chains, but the kit I purchased was a great price and came with the chains so I figured why not... it was cheaper to get the kit with the chains than buy all parts on their own.

    I'm going to enjoy the weekend, and keep studying my DIYs and manuals in preparation to dive in on Monday.

    I should also make note that I'm doing this work myself with the exception of charging the A/C system so the only labour cost is my very little free time hehe...

    Keep you posted.

  6. #6
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Plugging away. To be continued tomorrow. Having some problems getting the 6mm hex bolts off the rear drive shaft. Is there a reason the DIYs say to unbolt here? Or is it to save on tranny oil from disconnecting at the diff?


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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings icanfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roboto_1337 View Post
    Plugging away. To be continued tomorrow. Having some problems getting the 6mm hex bolts off the rear drive shaft. Is there a reason the DIYs say to unbolt here? Or is it to save on tranny oil from disconnecting at the diff?

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    To start, I sprayed them all down with PB Wrench / Liquid wrench a few times and let it sit overnight. I had to use a rubberband* on a few of mine and then beat the hell out of the coupler with a rubber B.F.H. until it seperated (make sure you put a rope or something around the end or it will fall in your face if you're note careful. I didn't realize how much it would droop once decoupled.. Once I got it, I just replaced the all the 6MM's so I didn't have to deal with it next time. Hope that helps.




    *get a wide rubberband, and put that between the bit and the bolt head to get a little more grip if you're stripping them out.
    slow is fast...

  8. #8
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by icanfly View Post
    To start, I sprayed them all down with PB Wrench / Liquid wrench a few times and let it sit overnight. I had to use a rubberband* on a few of mine and then beat the hell out of the coupler with a rubber B.F.H. until it seperated (make sure you put a rope or something around the end or it will fall in your face if you're note careful. I didn't realize how much it would droop once decoupled.. Once I got it, I just replaced the all the 6MM's so I didn't have to deal with it next time. Hope that helps.




    *get a wide rubberband, and put that between the bit and the bolt head to get a little more grip if you're stripping them out.
    yeah... I currently have the coupling soaked in PB... I've been turning the shaft by hand but will run some wire around it to hold it when she drops... I think I'm gonna need a bigger hammer

  9. #9
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada

    PB and a "loving touch" managed to get her

  10. #10
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada



    Slow and steady.... got the engine and tranny out and separated. I would say that the hardest part about this is the shifter box as it seemed to be what gave the most problems. I didn't drop the subframe as I would like to avoid alignment.

    The use of the engine load balancer was quite useful.


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  11. #11
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Started the day by removing the wiring harness and valve covers. Decided that was a good time to tackle the valley pan and check valves. It looks like the PO did the check valves as both were in good working condition. Replaced them anyway along with the oil sprayer. If anyone wants my used ones shoot me a PM with an offer.

    Managed to get the cage off the back and get at the chains and low and behold the infamous guide is holding on by a thread. Broken into 3 pieces. Very happy to find that knowing that all this work isn't for nothing.

    I also removed the A/C compressor before I got at the chains. Very easy with the engine out.

    Bed time. More tomorrow.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings gcoy's Avatar
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    2005 B6 S4 6mt Avant & 2001 B5 S4 6mt Avant (Sold) & 2007 VW Passat 3.6 4Mo wagon
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    Boise Id

    Nice work !!!
    Current:
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    Past:
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  13. #13
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada



    So spent a lot of the day cleaning.... got the o-rings replaced in the oil cooler (one was very shitty) cleaned up the engine. You'll see from the pics that there is a major difference.

    Got the big boy RS4 guides installed and I must say they look pretty sexy...

    Experiencing the first major setback as I broke the guide on top of the electrical cam adjuster... in hindsight it was a happy accident because they were pretty worn. So now I wait to have them shipped. The job is on hold until they show up. I'll probably install the next A/C compressor, receiver/drier and orifice tube in the meantime.

    Also suckered myself into a new clutch while I wait...


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  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings E-SWIFT's Avatar
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    You give me hope
    04 A6 S-line, Revo Stage 2, Forge DV,Samco TBB, AWE S-Flow,Manga-Flow Exhaust,19"Sportec Bi-color w/245/35/19, 35% tint.

  15. #15
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by E-SWIFT View Post
    You give me hope
    Lol.... my neighbors all seem to use the word "ambitious". None of them own and Audi hahaha...


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  16. #16
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    So didn't do much today because I'm waiting on parts.... that being said I got all the A/C work done and blew the system out with compressed air as per the Bentley. They said air or nitrogen. Didn't have nitrogen.

    New orifice tube and accumulator. Old compressor wouldn't drain any oil so I imagine that was part of the problem withbit


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  17. #17
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    A couple of learning points that I would like to point out... when removing the chains be sure to remove the gear on the exhaust cam even if you're not planning on doing anything to it... it makes setting the timing easier. Also the best way to ensure that the TDC pin is in, is to get a flashlight and look up through the upper oil pan drain and find the hole. I used a pry bar with 2 flywheel bolts installed to move the crank in order to get it in the right spot. This can also be done with the alternator, but I had removed my belt. I'm at work today and no parts yet... could be Wednesday before I get back to the beast. I hope to have it re-assembled and be re-installing on Wednesday... but things rarely go as planned.

  18. #18
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    waiting on parts... not likely to be Wednesday... gonna be on nights at work might give me some time in the day to work on her.

  19. #19
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Adventures with timing

    Got the timing set. Took two tries on the right (passenger) side, but on the second go the cam holders slid right in. Been slowly assembling the motor. The valve covers are in rough shape. When I have some more time I'm going to have to refinish them. I have some intake spacers on the way too so... probably gonna do the valve covers when I put the spacers in.

    Put new JHM pintle caps and o-rings on all the injectors.

    Followed the Bentley procedure on the valve cover gaskets. Gonna see how they hold up. Lightly oiled the half moons, no gasket maker...

    Tomorrow.... the clutch should be here and I'll be working on the wiring harness connecting all the zip ties that I cut.

    On another side note. A full set of cayenne 18z calipers fell into my lap today so that's gonna be another fun project.




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  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings TEB's Avatar
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    2004 S4 6MT
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    Ponte Vedra Beach, FL

    Have you replaced the seals at each end of front coolant supply line? Now's the time it you haven't -- they are cheap (VW dealer had them in stock). Mine started to leak on the driver's side and the seal was in bad shape.

    Also, at some point, can you describe the process for setting the timing? Is the crank lock the only tool used? I've done a couple 2.8's, but not sure what the process is for the 4.2.
    Thanks, and congrats on the progress.
    2004 S4 6MT Silver|Black|Bilstein|Hawk|Magnaflow|Team Dynamics|Nitto|Schroth|G-Force|Simpson

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    You need the crank lock pin, the hall rotor tool, the camshaft locking plates, the chain wedges, a 25mm wrench (I think that's the size) for the hex end of the camshaft, and a torque wrench for the camshaft capscrew and hex bit. You also need the instructions to follow. The hall rotor tool, the camshaft locking plates, and the wedges can be bought in a Schwaben kit for about 150. There's probably a few of them floating round now so someone close to you might be able to lend their kit.

  22. #22
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEB View Post
    Have you replaced the seals at each end of front coolant supply line? Now's the time it you haven't -- they are cheap (VW dealer had them in stock). Mine started to leak on the driver's side and the seal was in bad shape.

    Also, at some point, can you describe the process for setting the timing? Is the crank lock the only tool used? I've done a couple 2.8's, but not sure what the process is for the 4.2.
    Thanks, and congrats on the progress.
    Yeah, you need all the tools, with the exception that you can get away with only using one hall sensor holder (mechanical adjuster)

    I'll do this the best I can from memory... if I mess up I'll correct it later on tonight when I'm at work.

    1. Install the cam lock tools at TDC. (only go in one way). There is a mark on the crank pulley for the alternator that lines up with the block marking.

    2. Remove upper oil pain drain plug and insert crank locking tool. Make sure the sucker is in. I found it easiest to wiggle the crank with the alternator 22mm nut and use a flashlight in the drain hole to make sure the crank slot is aligned. Then torque the lock in to 20nm.

    3. Remove the cam lock tools

    4. Remove cam sprockets. When you remove the cam chains loosen/remove both sprockets. Looking at the back you always go driver side(left) then passenger side (right).
    The crank bears most of the torque but I did snap the guide on the electrical cam adjuster.

    It's important to have all of them loose for setting the timing. That's why I mention it.

    5. Install cam locking tools.

    6. Install your tensioners (keep pins in for now.) guides chains and sprockets/adjusters... don't torque them(adjuster). They need to spin.

    7. Remove the crankshaft pin & turn the cranshaft 30* counter-clockwise.

    8. Pull the pin on the left side tensioner and place the wedge in.

    9. repeat on the right side.

    10. Rotate the crank clockwise back to TDC. If you go past you have to back it up to the 30* point and go again.

    11. Insert crank pin

    12. tighten left side exhaust cam bolt. 40nm

    13. Install hall sensor holder & tighten left side intake cam bolt to 40nm

    14. Install hall sensor holder & tighten right side intake cam bolt to 40 nm

    15. remove hall sensor holder & tighten right side exhaust cam bolt o 40nm

    16. Remove camshaft holders

    17. tighten left side exhaust to 100nm plus 90*

    18. Install hall sensor holder and tighten left side intake to 100nm plus 90*

    19. Install hall sensor holder and tighten right side intake to 100nm plus 90*

    20. Remove hall sensor holder and tighten right side exhaust to 100nm plus 90*

    21. Remove crankshaft holder (trim wedges should still be installed!)

    22. rotate the crankshaft for two full revolutions (this makes sure each cam rotates once) (clockwise) and reinstall the crankshaft pin, then the camshaft holders... if you can't get the holders in, the timing is off and you have to do the process again.


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    Last edited by roboto_1337; 05-04-2017 at 11:25 AM.

  23. #23
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by neilpaku View Post
    You need the crank lock pin, the hall rotor tool, the camshaft locking plates, the chain wedges, a 25mm wrench (I think that's the size) for the hex end of the camshaft, and a torque wrench for the camshaft capscrew and hex bit. You also need the instructions to follow. The hall rotor tool, the camshaft locking plates, and the wedges can be bought in a Schwaben kit for about 150. There's probably a few of them floating round now so someone close to you might be able to lend their kit.
    And I have a tool kit for rental if you're interested.


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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings TEB's Avatar
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    2004 S4 6MT
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    Ponte Vedra Beach, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by roboto_1337 View Post
    And I have a tool kit for rental if you're interested.


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    I will be eventually, not sure what my timing for the project will be -- just trying to get myself psyched up for it. I'm still trying to decide direction. In addition to the cold start-up rattle, I'm burning more oil than I'd like, so I'm not sure what to do about that. Option A) do exactly what you're doing and hope that the new check valves help; Option B) buy another used 4.2, tear it down, sleeve or new rings as appropriate along with the timing components; or Option C) do a 2.7T swap.

    It has 140k miles and the oil usage has seemed to stabilize over the last 40k miles -- it's not ridiculous IMO (I'd guess 1 quart every 1500 miles). I still love the car and am in it for the long haul at this point.
    2004 S4 6MT Silver|Black|Bilstein|Hawk|Magnaflow|Team Dynamics|Nitto|Schroth|G-Force|Simpson

  25. #25
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEB View Post
    I will be eventually, not sure what my timing for the project will be -- just trying to get myself psyched up for it. I'm still trying to decide direction. In addition to the cold start-up rattle, I'm burning more oil than I'd like, so I'm not sure what to do about that. Option A) do exactly what you're doing and hope that the new check valves help; Option B) buy another used 4.2, tear it down, sleeve or new rings as appropriate along with the timing components; or Option C) do a 2.7T swap.

    It has 140k miles and the oil usage has seemed to stabilize over the last 40k miles -- it's not ridiculous IMO (I'd guess 1 quart every 1500 miles). I still love the car and am in it for the long haul at this point.
    Yeah it's a big job... really all you need is a little knowledge and time. The Bentley manual is helpful once you learn how to use it properly. I have everything separated and labeled (part of the reason this is taking so long) but re-assembly seems to be going well so far... just took a look at the transmission to bolt it back on, but my clutch slave cylinder is disintegrating... so I'm replacing that before it goes and I have to get under the car to do it.'

    this job is @ about 120k miles... 201, 000 km. I had the same symptoms you're having... just be prepared... I can't wait to get the beast running again, it's going to be so nice having those metal RS4 guides in there keeping everything safe.
    Last edited by roboto_1337; 05-04-2017 at 11:27 AM.

  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings TEB's Avatar
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    2004 S4 6MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by roboto_1337 View Post
    Yeah it's a big job... really all you need is a little knowledge and time. The Bentley manual is helpful once you learn how to use it properly. I have everything separated and labeled (part of the reason this is taking so long) but re-assembly seems to be going well so far... just took a look at the transmission to bolt it back on, but my clutch slave cylinder is disintegrating... so I'm replacing that before it goes and I have to get under the car to do it.'

    this job is @ about 120k miles... 201, 000 km. I had the same symptoms you're having... just be prepared... I can't wait to get the beast running again, it's going to be so nice having those metal RS4 guides in there keeping everything safe.
    Yeah, making sure I have the right parts ready to go is a concern. I plan to do the work at my father-in-laws house as he has a climate controlled building with plenty of room and a lift. He's about 9 hours from me, so I'd like to take a week vacation and get it done. This is why buying another engine is appealing as I could get it ready over a few visits and then be ready for a quick swap.
    2004 S4 6MT Silver|Black|Bilstein|Hawk|Magnaflow|Team Dynamics|Nitto|Schroth|G-Force|Simpson

  27. #27
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    2006 S4 6MT
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    Ontario, Canada

    Yeah things not in most kits...

    PCV valve
    Hose clamps
    Intake gaskets
    Exhaust gaskets
    Electrical adjuster guides
    Gasket maker
    Oil cooler o-Rings
    Rear coolant pipe o-rings
    Extra coolant connectors. (You'll probably break the one on the back that goes to the heater core.
    Zip ties
    Dremel with a plastic bristle bit for the sealing surfaces.
    Extra coolant p/s fluid and brake fluid( you lose a little when you remove the tranny)... that's all I can think of right now.


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  28. #28
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Today's update.... clutch showed up... belt was a different story. Had to order one and picked it up locally to get it on the engine.

    Wiring harness is connected and ready to be mated to the transmission. When I was putting the new throw out bearing in I noticed that the slave cylinder was falling apart. So. I'm having a new one rushed in. Hopefully here tomorrow. I'm working nights for the next 3 days so I'll be able to get a little done in the afternoons before work.

    Plan for tomorrow is mate the engine to the tranny.

    Install the slave.

    Slide it into position in the car. Connect everything on Saturday.




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  29. #29
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    great work! what does this falling apart clutch cylinder look like?

    - emilio
    Vorsprung durch Service Position
    Buy shirts & help me buy tires!

  30. #30
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emilio View Post
    great work! what does this falling apart clutch cylinder look like?

    - emilio
    I'm on nights at the moment... I'll take a pic tomorrow when I'm in the garage and throw it up for you. Be warned. It's not for then faint of heart.


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  31. #31
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    So managed to sneak out when the little guy was down for a nap.

    Replaced the slave cylinder and mated the engine back to the 0A3.

    Getting the engine lined up would have been a lot easier with a 2nd set of hands. I wiggled the spline via the drive shaft coupling and that seemed to help get it to slide up nice. Then I just went around the bell housing and evenly tighten everything up in a star pattern until everything was seated. Then torqued the bolts to 65nm. The three hex socket bolts are 45nm.






    More toys showed up today... but they're going to need some TLC. Right now the focus is to get this bad boy back on the road.






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  32. #32
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Adventures with timing

    For Emilio

    Quote Originally Posted by emilio View Post
    great work! what does this falling apart clutch cylinder look like?

    - emilio


    This clutch slave was still working fine... I wasn't going to risk it failing 500km down the road.






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  33. #33
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    So today I threw the downpipes on and started to slip the heart back into the beast. I removed the shifter so I'd have more clearance reinstalling. I would advise against this as it's a huge PITA to reinstall. Major setback for me. Additionally I need about another inch in my finger in order to secure the clip for the hardpipe connection to the heater core. Hoping tomorrow I've grown a little more. I know your supposed to connect it before you put the engine all the way to the firewall but I broke my original connector and had a spare one that was on a 45 instead of straight. So the hose is about one inch shorter. And more difficult to reinstall.

    Other than those two hiccups. Pretty smooth. A second set of hands would have made it a lot easier.








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  34. #34
    Senior Member Three Rings badger.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 31 2014
    AZ Member #
    168335
    My Garage
    '05 S4 Sedan | '05 S4 Avant | '01 Lexus IS300
    Location
    KY
    Items for Sale

    Great progress. Feels good to get it back in, doesn't it? Thanks for the thread and good photos
    '05 S4 Sedan Arctic White: JHM Intake Spacers | JHM ATF Cooler | JHM Auto-tensioner | 034 Motor Mounts | Apikol Snub | Slotted & Dimpled Rotors | AQ1200D w/Dual 10" CVRs | 35% Tint | Piggies | Fast Intentions Catback
    '05 S4 Avant Brilliant Red: JHM Tune | JHM v1 Headers | JHM Nitrous | JHM LWCP | JHM Ported IM| JHM ATF Cooler | Apikol Rear Diff & Snub | Thor Skid Plate | JHM LW Rotors | Fast Intentions Catback

  35. #35
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 05 2016
    AZ Member #
    375740
    My Garage
    2006 S4 6MT
    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    No problem badger. I've hit a road bump with the heater core supply hose. Can't seem to get it to connect as I had to cut about an inch off to attach a new connector. I'm thinking about doing a splice to get some more length out of the line as I really don't want to wait for a new hose to come in.

    The amazing part is that you can reach the hose to disconnect/connect it with the engine in the car the whole way. I would recommend that people disconnect this before pulling the motor forward. Then slide it out 6 inches and disconnect the clutch slave cylinder.


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  36. #36
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 05 2016
    AZ Member #
    375740
    My Garage
    2006 S4 6MT
    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    Aaaannnd. She's back together and running strong! I have an exhaust leak on the passenger side. But it's drivable for now! I fix it later.


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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 29 2010
    AZ Member #
    59652
    My Garage
    2012 Lexus CT200h
    Location
    Bloomington, IN

    Quote Originally Posted by roboto_1337 View Post
    For Emilio

    This clutch slave was still working fine... I wasn't going to risk it failing 500km down the road.






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    I'm willing to bet this happens to a lot of slaves because the boot rubs against the transmission every time it's actuated.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings BCsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 29 2010
    AZ Member #
    54160
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    B6 S4 6MT Avant, B6 3.0 Avant 6MT (for sale), C5 A6 2.8
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    north ga
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    Last time I had the motor out my slave cylinder had no boot at all. Like the heat made it disentegrate and whatever pieces were left got chewed up and/or burned away

  39. #39
    Established Member Three Rings roboto_1337's Avatar
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    Jul 05 2016
    AZ Member #
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    My Garage
    2006 S4 6MT
    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by S4Bennett View Post
    I'm willing to bet this happens to a lot of slaves because the boot rubs against the transmission every time it's actuated.
    There's not really a place for the boot to rub. It is inside the transmission an there's a gal between the bell housing and the clutch release lever.


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  40. #40
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 19 2014
    AZ Member #
    304212
    Location
    Salt Lake City

    Great thread/write-up so far, thanks for sharing!
    Can I ask where you got your parts kit(s)? I'm prepping for the same job, but may use a donor motor....
    Are you planning on cracking the trans open by chance? I'm also considering the JHM overdrive 6th gear.
    Thanks!!!


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