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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Need help on which parts to buy for my block

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    Hi there i know you might say it was discussed before but i cant really find what i am looking for i have 2.7t 2003 a6 pushing 450whp and want to go up. I am about to pull the motor out but cant decided what parts to buy which rods to buy bearings main bearings do i need pistons or i can re use my old one which gasket set is the best also if i need new pistons which compression ratio to choose will be going for high boost like 30psi on e85 looking to push around 600whp with tial 605 also best place to but all the parts money wise thx a lot for all the info

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    You need rods, any upgraded rods will work whether it's IE, pauter, rpm.

    Keep factory Pistons if they are in good condition. Re ring.

    You'll need main bearings (you can Oem ) and studs (arp).

    Keep factory compression ratio.
    And a crap ton of money for gaskets and hoses.


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  3. #3
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    Thank you you sure pistons are strong enought? Since ppl whos selling parts told my you need to uprade them for sure...

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Yep. The stock Pistons are stout. At the hp you're looking for, you'll be fine. I'm currently building an engine exactly how I've advised.


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  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Nov 02 2014
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    My Garage
    06 9-3 Aero 2.8T, 96 Miata
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    There's a few cars running around here with over 700whp on stock pistons.

    Also, if you are careful you can do it without removing the crank/main bearings.
    Then: B5S4 Stage f21 + meth and stuffs

    In progress: BB K24 + e85 and meth.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselElectric View Post
    There's a few cars running around here with over 700whp on stock pistons.

    Also, if you are careful you can do it without removing the crank/main bearings.
    Is that how you did yours? Nice!


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  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Monty has a build that's a good example of a budget bottom end done right (he's put some miles on it and he's making 700+ wheel now). Rod slapped with a hone, new rings, and bearings. Headgaskets, valve cover gaskets, and you're done. Hell, you don't even have to replace head bolts. They're cheap though, so why not.

    Don't waste money on fancy bearings. Just buy oem manufacturer bearings (glyco). Show me a 2.7t that has had bearing failure without an associated oil related issue.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    I would definitely buy new head bolts, they are torque to yield.

    Also, yup. Once you remove the main bearing caps you need to add new bolts for that as well. It adds a bit to the expense, for something I felt unnecessary. I saw no evidence on the rod bearings to suspect an issue with the mains.

    I replaced all the o-rings, front/rear mains, head seals, hone, rings, forged rods, rod bearings, headgaskets, head bolts (stock).

    Ends up being a few hundred just in replacement maintenance items.

    But moral of the story, is all these engines need are forged rods and they are very strong. As if 500whp on a stock long block isn't strong already. We are spoiled around here.
    Then: B5S4 Stage f21 + meth and stuffs

    In progress: BB K24 + e85 and meth.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trb1 View Post
    Monty has a build that's a good example of a budget bottom end done right (he's put some miles on it and he's making 700+ wheel now). Rod slapped with a hone, new rings, and bearings. Headgaskets, valve cover gaskets, and you're done. Hell, you don't even have to replace head bolts. They're cheap though, so why not.

    Don't waste money on fancy bearings. Just buy oem manufacturer bearings (glyco). Show me a 2.7t that has had bearing failure without an associated oil related issue.
    I was under the impression our headbolts were also a weak link? Darn, guess I wasted a pretty penny on arp.


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  10. #10
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    What about machine shop what they have to do redeck head check valves? Maby good idea to replaced valves or atleast valve stems? Also block does it have to magnafluxed also walls honed? Also do i need to balance rotating assembly and get new wrist pins for oem pistons and oil pump is it good or have to be replaced?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings B501S4's Avatar
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    Could lap your valves, replace stem seals, chain guides while you're in there.

    Are they currently stock? And you said 600+ whp?


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  12. #12
    Active Member One Ring
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    Yes engine is all stock have tial 605 kit in it with all the mods... but want to switch to e85 so will be way over 500whp whats the best cheapest place to buy all the parts?? And what about rosten rods?

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings skree25's Avatar
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    Dec 20 2014
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    My Garage
    1999 Audi B5 A4 Avant, 1996 Cherokee, 1989 Honda VTR 250
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    I just finished up a bottom end build. I went with RPM I-Beam rods -- only $430. Came balanced all within +/- 1 gram. Kept pistons but had the machine shop polish the crank and wrist pins, hone the block, and balance the rotating assembly (how I know the rods were all balanced on arrival). I also used Eurospec main studs--cheaper than the other guys and seemed to be good quality. Grant piston rings--cheaper but required quite a bit of grinding to get gapping right.

    I bought a majority of my parts from FCP, ECS, Europa, and 034. FCP usually had the best prices.

    Make sure you budget expenses for gaskets, seals, TTY bolts, flanges, etc...--it's nothing to scoff at. And make sure you do your homework and get all the parts (especially o-rings) up front so you're not putting the project on hold for days waiting for $2.00 worth of parts. ETKA is your best friend.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulekas View Post
    Yes engine is all stock have tial 605 kit in it with all the mods... but want to switch to e85 so will be way over 500whp whats the best cheapest place to buy all the parts?? And what about rosten rods?
    Do the research on cheapest parts. Nobody will be able to tell you the best place to buy each individual part. Are you sure you want to tackle this yourself? Also, just buy eBay H beam rods (like rpm). It's all the same. Just make sure they have arp hardware.

  15. #15
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    I am mot sure if i have other option since shop will charge me a lot to rebuild.... the only thing i am really worrying is to remove cams properly and install timing right i can get that speciall tool but i cant find info on how to remove cams then also is it worth it to do valve job my self? Since its like 500$ at machine shop...

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Cams are easy. You need a special tool that costs $30 to keep the chain tensioners compressed. You just have to make sure their is the proper amount of links between each timing mark on the cams. It's different for each head. They come out together and get installed together. With the chain and the tensioner. I'd suggest starting with the drivers head cams as the passenger side head will not be at TDC when installing or removing cams.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings Wagonholic's Avatar
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    My Garage
    2001 B5 S4 Avant (Laser Red)
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    My build went as the following:

    RPM H-beam rods with ARP bolts. Didn't balance any further than what they came with out of the box.
    Stock pistons, cleaned with Purple Pads and Brakkleen
    Reused factory piston rings
    New rod bearings and wrist pin clips. Reused stock wrist pins

    New gaskets and headbolts.

    Didn't touch crank, so I didn't touch the main bolts or bearings.

    All in all, cost around $6-700 in parts. My motor is running well right now.



    I tossed in 2.8 intake cams as well. I bought a tensioner tool on ebay for $8 shipped lol. Worked perfectly.
    Justin
    I have a major problem, I'm a boost addict and a wagon addict
    #toomuchboost #racewagon #becauseracecar
    B5 S4 Avant - Laser Red. 6-speed Manual. 1 of 18. Unleashed by STUKLR
    Going big or going home. Doing a garage build. View my build thread.
    #YEengineering

  18. #18
    Active Member One Ring
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    Dam thats a cheap as build you did i already spent around 2k in parts maby little less here is what i got so far rosten rods with new bearings and main bearings trust washer new head gasket kits timing belt kit with gates racing belt all new gaskets for block then arp head bolts new piston rings still gave to buy some little things but pretty much got all of it i am still thinking about getting tdi trans from advanced automotion since i am there already but question is will my clutch hold the power i have south bend stage 3 clutch kit??? Dam i am so much money already in it....

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Not at 600whp it won't last long. You could try running it but I personally wouldn't. Stage 4 clutch/FW kit will set you back another 1500 or so.


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  20. #20
    Active Member One Ring
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    Dam that south bend was instaled 9k miles ago... whats the best clutch for $$? For 600whp and still will feel almost like stock?

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Check out Ringer Racing stage 4 or 4+

    I have the stage 4 at the moment, pedal feels amazing. The 4+ is rated to like 800 lb-ft
    I'm like a tree. I'm all root

  22. #22
    Registered Member Two Rings Pik Masta's Avatar
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    Apr 05 2017
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    Houston Texas

    Head Gasket, I'd go with a MLS type
    #JoyRideBiTurbo 2000 B5 S4 6MT Santorin/white leather Instagram: @PikMasta

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mille Bornes View Post
    Check out Ringer Racing stage 4 or 4+

    I have the stage 4 at the moment, pedal feels amazing. The 4+ is rated to like 800 lb-ft
    I bought the stage 4 plus. Haven't installed so can't review it.




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  24. #24
    Active Member One Ring
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    I called south bend talked with dave he said send it back and they can upgrade it to stage 4 for 250$ so i guess its not bad what do yoy guys think about diesel trans its like 3k is it worth it?

  25. #25
    Has anybody ever put together a complete listing/spreadsheet on parts needed for a build? Stage 3 or built bottom end? On corrado page on the vortex, there was a spreadsheet on parts needed for a rebuild, it wasn't the end all on wants but it had a lot of mostly needed bits. Brands were left up to the buyer, but it had some part numbers. Just made it easier when doing something like this. I have been in the process of doing the same type research but not as familiar on this model as I am on the Corrado.
    01.5 S4 Avant Imola Yellow
    93 Corrado VR6 3.0L

  26. #26
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I have a notebook full of part numbers I wrote down when I ordered from Jim Ellis. Not all encompassing but almost every gasket for the block is listed, oil pump, chain, tensioner, etc... I still need to figure out gaskets for the heads and coolant pipes and whatnot
    I'm like a tree. I'm all root

  27. #27
    Active Member One Ring
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    Can some one tell me if i really need to balnce my rotating assembly since crankshaft is old and prb it was balanced i am using same pistons so they are balanced just getting new rod when which are prb balanced too so from my understanting balancing its just waste of money....

  28. #28
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulekas View Post
    Can some one tell me if i really need to balnce my rotating assembly since crankshaft is old and prb it was balanced i am using same pistons so they are balanced just getting new rod when which are prb balanced too so from my understanting balancing its just waste of money....
    People will tell you otherwise, but take everything on these forums with a grain of salt.

    Even eBay rods are going to come more "balanced" equal to each other than OEM rods. Look at the builds that have done rod slapping without balancing. Once again I'll point to monty's build. Many miles on a rod slapped motor with new piston rings and rod bearings. That's probably the best way to do it.

    If you decide have the rotating assembly balanced, not only will you have to pay for that, but you'll then end up needing to pay for new thrust washers, main bearings, main bolts or studs, front and rear main seals, etc. Then you'll need to properly set the crank end play, and play all those games. More invasive work means more opportunities for mistakes. Rod slap and go, IMO.

  29. #29
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I am having my rotating assembly balanced and already have all the items you mentioned but I hadn't considered end play. I just kind of assumed I got OE thrust washers so it should be good... I understand how to check end play but how does one set end play?


    To OP, regarding the balancing, lots of people rod slap seemingly without issue. I'd prefer to have the balance done and know that it's perfect.
    I'm like a tree. I'm all root

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