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  1. #201
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Fuel Rail and Injectors Reinstall

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    Before installing the fuel injectors and fuel rail I decided to soak the injectors in cleaning solution and replace the o-rings on each injector, and replace all the broken pintle caps with good ones. The o-rings were starting to crack and rot, and some of the pintle caps -which hold the o-ring from being sucked into the manifold, were cracked. Luckily for me, the D3 intake came with some caps still in the ports of the manifold.
    DSC_2871
    DSC_2775
    DSC_2877
    DSC_2873

    I cleaned the fuel rail with the same solution, then fitted each injector to the fuel rail. While the fuel rail is not bolted in place, take this chance to install the injector clips. Don't forget about these as I did. It's much harder to install them when the rail is already installed to the manifold. These clips keep the injectors from being sucked out of the fuel rail into the manifold. They wouldn't get sucked completely in, but it may create a leak on the top of the injector, spraying fuel into the engine bay. Bad medicine.
    Injector Clips

    Before I reinstalled the fuel lines to the fuel rail I decided it best to go ahead and drain the tank of all the old gas as much as possible. It's been a year and a half since I parked it and I'm sure the fuel is no longer good quality gasoline. I did this the same way I drained the remaining fuel from the A6 to use in the lawn mower: connect a battery to the fuel pump and wait at the other end to catch the fuel coming out of the fuel line:
    Red:Pump Positive
    Green: Pump Negative
    DSC_2886
    DSC_2883
    DSC_2881
    DSC_2882

    This took quite a while though. I pumped nearly 9.5 gallons out of the tank. I had to stop each time the gallon jug was full to pour that into the lawn mower, the extra 5gal gas tank, and all I could fit into the truck. But I eventually got all the gas out of the tank. Took me about an hour of this process.

    *Edit 6/26/2017:
    Please do exercise extreme caution here. Think what might happen if you connected battery + and - to the resistive float sensor instead of the pump? A little equation: Powerful battery + small shorted resistor = sparkler. In your gas tank. Please don't blow yourself up. Double check wiring diagrams on your own to verify this before making any connection, and when a connection is made, do it ever so briefly to make sure you hear the pump start to run instead of a pop, or similar scary sound. It's said that it should be hard to get a gas tank to ignite because it is more of the fumes that catch fire and not the liquid.. but what if the tank is nearly empty, on a warmer day? That's a tank with a lot of fumes. Please be careful here if you wish to try this on your own!

    Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rail, and fuel lines installed.
    DSC_3062
    DSC_3061
    Last edited by 4Loops; 06-26-2017 at 05:34 AM.
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  2. #202
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 29 2012
    AZ Member #
    90865
    My Garage
    1997 Audi A4 V6 Quattro
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by 4Loops View Post
    I like your selection of flexible hose used for the lower radiator outlet. Seems to have a better bend radius as well.



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  3. #203
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    109977
    My Garage
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Quote Originally Posted by king84 View Post
    I like your selection of flexible hose used for the lower radiator outlet. Seems to have a better bend radius as well.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Seems to work out well. It's a Gates 25484 flexible hose. It has a spiral stainless wire spanning the inside to help the hose keep its shape. Looks like a stretched out spring yanked into a radiator hose. I think I may have purchased the wrong size though. The 1.5" x 2' hose I bought seems not quite tight enough on the engine side. For the radiator side I had to use a radiator hose adapter, 1.5" to 1.25" coupling, and that makes me worry enough. I may have to replace the entire flexible hose with an appropriately sized one, rather than use two coupling adapters on each side. Too much to go wrong, ya know?
    I'm catching up on my documentation for what I've already done, so heavy details to come on this soon. My radiator is finished and installed; I'm working now on fitment and fitting fans to it. Sneak preview of a long post to come: a 9" puller fan does work on the driver side of the engine where the serpentine belt does a "V". I have less than a centimeter between the fan motor backside and the front of the timing belt cover! Good thing those Stern mounts are stiff!
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  4. #204
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Jan 25 2009
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    37870
    Location
    Oceanside, NY

    How did you manege to get those plastic caps on and off the injectors to change the seals? When I took my rail/injectors out to change the upper half of the intake one of the plastic rings came off and it too me an hour to press it back on
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  5. #205
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
    AZ Member #
    109977
    My Garage
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Quote Originally Posted by pee quu View Post
    How did you manege to get those plastic caps on and off the injectors to change the seals? When I took my rail/injectors out to change the upper half of the intake one of the plastic rings came off and it too me an hour to press it back on
    Getting them off wasn't so bad, as most of them were cracked and they peeled right off. The couple that were still good I decided to replace with the better looking ones that came with the new manifold. Getting those off wasn't too bad -I used a small screw driver and used it to pull up on the cap as I spun the injector around -kind of the same motion of peeling an apple or potato with a regular knife. Getting them back on -yea, that was the fun part. I simply pushed them on with my thumb, wobbling the pressure around the circumference of the injector head. And yea, this led to quite an indentation on my thumb as you might imagine. So I did one every ~10 minutes to give me some healing time haha. I suppose if one thought the plastic caps looked to be in good shape though, the o-rings could be stretched over them.
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  6. #206
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    109977
    My Garage
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    A quick tip on bleeding the clutch, which I had a friend help me out with over last weekend: Have the rear higher than the front of the car.
    We tried to get the clutch bled earlier in the year, and were at it for over an hour with no luck -because I had the front of the car ever so slightly higher than the rear. After no success that time, I found a post by jaybquick@JHM in THIS thread that gives this very helpful tip:

    IMPORTANT TIP New as of 5-11-09
    We have found that if you try to bleed the clutch with the car NOT completely level. Like if you just jack up the front. You will almost NEVER be able to bleed it completely or will make it take forever. This traps air bubbles in one of the upper corners. So make sure the rear of your car is level with the front of your car and if not level even a little higher than the front. The key is to not have the front higher than the rear. We have always bled ours when the cars were level and routinely do it in 5 minutes or so. Well recently I was lazy and tried to do one with just the front of the car up and I couldn't get it to bleed for me no matter what I did. I thought about it and it hit me why. So I jacked the back of the car up and BOOM, it bleed quickly. Hope this new tip helps some that are struggling.
    Yep. Five minute job when the car is sitting properly. Amazing how much time a little research saves
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  7. #207
    Senior Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Jul 18 2015
    AZ Member #
    343342
    Location
    Denver, CO

    Quote Originally Posted by 4Loops View Post
    Yep. Five minute job when the car is sitting properly. Amazing how much time a little research saves
    Hey man, first off good job with documenting all this stuff with so much detail. I know it's tough to be busy with the car all the time and then also spend hours documenting all of it and keeping your thread updated. This will be super helpful for anyone looking to do this swap.
    I've done a lot of slave cylinder bleeds in the past and they've all worked fine, but this time I can't get my clutch to work. What did your clutch pedal feel like before? I always have my car level, but I've never tried it with the rear higher... maybe I need to do that.

  8. #208
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    109977
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    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    I think I have my clutch feel about the same as before I embarked on this voyage. I say think because I usually can't remember what I had for breakfast let alone clutch feel from a year and a half ago, lol! But that said, I think it is back to normal in that the clutch will depress maybe less than a half of an inch (due to mechanical linkage slop from the pedal to the clutch piston), with the only resistance being the clutch spring holding it back, then I instantly feel pressure (liquid pressure) -not spongy air pressure. It now feels consistent throughout its travel. Before I had all the air out, I would feel the less than 1/2 inch of spring from the mechanical slop, then feel the clutch piston engaging, then an easy push that seemed to hit a "soft wall" of harder pressure (fluid). As to the level of the car our first go around at it.. the front of the car was only very slightly higher than the rear, and I couldn't get it all the way bled. I would say yea, to remove all doubt I'd raise the back a good bit taller than the front. Another thing we did was not pump the begesis out of the clutch while bleeding -as to not aerate the fluid. Instead I had a friend push the clutch in while I opened the bleeder valve, close the valve, and he raised the pedal. We repeated that 9 or 10 times before the pedal felt hard.
    At least it is possible to raise the rear to allow air bubbles to escape on these cars. My old S10 was stupid. The clutch master cylinder was pointed up at a 45* angle, with the line output at the bottom. I had no other choice than to keep pumping it while I drove it for a few days as it got better. That, or find a way to hang the truck from its front bumper while the clutch was bled!
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  9. #209
    Senior Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Jul 18 2015
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    343342
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    Denver, CO

    Gotcha, the front of my car is about an inch higher than the back right now. I've spent hours bleeding the clutch and every time the pedal feels really soft until the last inch or so of the throw and it gets really hard. I don't think the slave missed the clutch fork because I can push the pedal all the way to the floor and it hasn't popped. The first time I installed the slave in the transmission when it was outside the car so I could see that it was seated on the clutch fork. The pedal felt like described above. Then I switched the hydraulic clutch system to the older B5 style (car is a B7), bled it and the pedal still felt the exact same. I used a power bleeder in addition to pedal bleeding so I guess I will have to try bleeding it with the rear up.


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  10. #210
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
    AZ Member #
    109977
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    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Man, I wish I could give you a hint or direction here. You seem to have covered all the things I would've thought of. Super unlikely: but you don't think it could be a leaky master or slave cylinder, do you? I wish there were a way to see the clutch fork being engaged by the slave cylinder piston. I dog on the Chevy, but at least it had a panel on the transmission bell housing that could be removed in order to see the piston pushing the clutch fork appropriately. Removing the engine for a "quick" inspection is not a great solution either. Hmm. When you do figure it out, let me know what the problem/solution was.
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  11. #211
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Jan 25 2009
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    37870
    Location
    Oceanside, NY

    When I had my trans out to do the rear main seal I put in a metal slave. With that my buddy and I ran a steel braded hose from the slave up into the rain tray where the battery would be and mounted it up there with the bleeder valve. I had the clutch bled in % mins and the car was on the floor. One of my favorite mods lol
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  12. #212
    Senior Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Jul 18 2015
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    Denver, CO

    Ya I'll see if I figure it out. The master isn't leaking, the first slave wasn't leaking, and the brand new slave wasn't leaking. The only thing I could think of is the clutch fork is not where it's supposed to be, but I took pictures of everything so I know I installed all the parts correctly. And I've done this a few times on different Audi's which is why I'm really confused why it's not working this time. I think I'm going to pull the slave and see where the clutch fork is and if I can compress it by hand. Then try and bleed the slave, maybe I'll hang the back of the car from a rope and bleed it that way lol


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  13. #213
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Jul 15 2017
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    402895
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    Long island,New York

    Quote Originally Posted by 4Loops View Post
    Bhusted, tinytim, ddillinger, Is this file still available? I tried clicking on the link and the site says its missing or I'm not authorized. I have the 2001 4D0907560AE ECM sitting on the bench; I figure its too cold outside to do work on the car comfortably, I might try flashing this file in. I hope it still exists!
    From what I've read, this modified file will work on the ART engine and changes the transmission to manual. Am I correct in thinking it deletes SAI also? Maybe Rear 02 sensors? EGR delete? I don't think it defeats the immo, right? The diode trick is still required, I'm assuming?

    I'm poking around nefmoto currently, trying to learn as much as I can there.
    I also remember ddillinger responding in this thread saying that was his file and that it is not the same one on nefmoto? I can't even find a modified file on nefmoto, only an original file. So it seems like I need a source for this magical file of ddillinger's that everyone seems to be using.. Any source for that?

    Otherwise, I guess I'll be forced to learn how to use TunerProRT and nefmotoME7flasher.

    Any ideas? -Thanks!

    Hey 4Loops, ijust purchased a 4.2 D2 S8 engine of course for a b5 swap. I been reading and doing homework on how to. But none really covered the ECU/ECM flash most seem to send them in to daz or others. I wanted to know what route you took. I dont mind playing around with the it. As i was planing on getting 2 ME7.1.1 one to learn how annd the other just to chip($550) which will already convert the auto to manual plus some extra goods like increased redline 7000rpm o2 delete etc. Or is there another way? Thanks btw on this detailed thread.

  14. #214
    Veteran Member Three Rings pee quu's Avatar
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    Oceanside, NY

    Those pintel caps on the injectors SUCK. last tiem I took my injectors out one came off, it took me an hour to get it back on
    2000 B5 A4 / C5 S6 V8 swap / B5 S4 driveline swap / PVW Nov 2016

  15. #215
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    109977
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    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Hi Wolfgang,

    Congratulations on the engine! Should be a fun swap! What year B5? Have you started a thread yet? -I'd love to see your progress!

    Sorry, I'm not much help here yet. I haven't reached this point. I'm still trying to get my engine swap complete using its original ECM, just to make sure it works as is, then start tuning and flashing. I'm still a bit unsure which direction I will take. I'm trying to keep costs down, so I will probably first try to flash Daz's tune, and then try to fine-tune myself with some more research. I would probably benefit from tweaking that further, as I've swapped in an Intake Manifold from an A8 4.2, which is a 2-stage manifold as opposed to the ART/AWN 3-stage manifold.

    Unfortunately, we aren't able to go to Daz for help anymore as he had unfortunately passed about a year ago. Very sad news.

    I received what I believe was Daz's 4.2 AWN/ART tune; I can't remember who I got it from. I don't think anyone would mind me sharing though. It may get you close, but I think you may have to seek additional tuning for your S8 engine.

    I haven't posted the file in a shared location yet mainly because I'm not sure if I will be ex-communicated from the Audi-crowd. I don't know proper tune-sharing etiquette yet. Hopefully I have the community's blessing as this file can help so many others to complete their swaps, and give sort of a tribute to Daz and his wonderful work. As with any shared tune though, I'm sure that to really dial-in to one's specific motor an in-person tune might be required. I might be proven wrong though: I've never accomplished any tuning before. I'm a total greeney here.

    I think it's best to start the engine with the original ECM just to stay close to that scientific process of changing one thing at a time if possible.
    For your next step, you might try the tune using Daz's file but I'm not sure it'll help 100%.
    -Just let me know if you'd like to give this a try. With my rate of progress you might get there before me!

    Just to further explain what my goals have formed into also: I have decided to keep SAI and move the air pump into the battery tray, and relocate the battery to the trunk on the left. I also plan on keeping 02 sensors for the sake of simplicity. I may change my mind later, but that's my goal for now.

    When it comes to fine tune my setup, I think I'm going to give flashing a try, but if that doesn't pan out I might seek out someone on Nefmoto. There are a few folks providing tuning services there. Most of the material I see is for boosted stuff, but there are others that I've seen offer to help with naturally aspirated stuff too.

    Good luck with it all and have fun!
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

  16. #216
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Jul 15 2017
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    Long island,New York

    4loops(awesome name btw)

    thanks yea hopefully fun and easy. b5 a 99 2.8 and nah i haven't started yet, probably wont till spring season since summer over here in new york. just trying to acquire all or most of the part and tools needed. once i do i start a thread and let you know.

    moment of silence for Daz(ride in peace in Audi heaven)

    when im ready for tuning process i would take daz tune as i said i will play with a couple ecm's to learn and not lock myself out. but i will take a look on Nefmoto for helpful insight as well.

    how did you relocate to the battery like what gauge wiring was use? and how?(when it come to electrical im not wiring im not the best and tend to stay away lol)

    and thanks for all the help. this is the best thread i read by far on AZ. one more thing where did you get those wheels?

  17. #217
    Established Member Two Rings 4Loops's Avatar
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    Feb 21 2013
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    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro, MK4 Jetta TDI
    Location
    South Central Indiana

    Wolfgang, I appreciate the comments!

    I got those S-line replicas off a guy in Indy through Craigslist. One of the wheels was cracked and bent a little, I can't remember if another one was slightly bent. I had it (them?) repaired by DSWheels of Indy, IIRC, for pretty cheap. These are 18s. I wouldn't go any bigger than that though. 19s have so little rubber you'll be searching out new wheels within the year if your roads are anything like ours (well, in certain parts -cities are worse). Honestly I am considering switching to the pie-plate wheels from the A6. They're 17s, and they'll ride a little more comfy. Maybe I'll keep both sets for winter/summer swappers.

    I haven't yet relocated the battery; I'm just part-way replacing it with the SAI pump and oil catch can. I'll have to figure out the battery relocation to the rear a little later. I know there are a few threads on how-to though. I'll of course post my experiences here when I get around to installing the battery. For the past few days I've been creating an aluminum bracket and fitting it in the battery location. I thought I'd have enough room to also fit the blue-balls (vacuum reservoir) in there also, but I suppose I didn't mind spacing well enough. No matter, I'll try to find a space under one of the front quarter panels to mount it. (Wife just loves it -insert sarcasm- when I describe how I need to find a place for my blue-balls, LOL!) Oh, how fun to annoy!
    ...Hmmmm.... ...Too far??

    I'll be posting on this in the next couple weeks. I'm only a day out from finishing the SAI and Oil Catchcan bracket, but readying the Jetta for a little road-trip currently, so will be relaxing and away from media and internet for a little while.. sounds relaxing.

    Also, as far as tools and parts go, I just updated my very first post in this thread to include a link to my Net Cost Tracker. I've been keeping this log since day 1, so I can track what it's really costing me. It should also be a great resource for sourcing parts when you get to that point.

    And to your wiring comment: don't worry, you'll have enough exposure in your swap to become quite comfortable with wiring and following Bentley electrical diagrams!
    -Hello, 90ft deep section of the "electrical & wiring" pool! *splash*.
    1999.5 A4 B5 2.8 Quattro (My V8 Swap Project)
    2002 Jetta TDI ALH
    2000 C5 A6 Partout (<--click here for link)
    2007 Silverado

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