Starting from scratch...

[AudiA4_20T]

Ok guys, so I have done a decent job making cars fast, but looking nice was never my thing. Of course I wanted them too but engine swaps and attention to detail are hard to combine.

I want to start getting into detailing because you can have the nicest car in the world, but without the paint looking fresh it's a waste. So I had some questions

1. How much should I be looking to spend for EVERY SINGLE THING I need?
2. What's a great list of these products (I know it's a lot of preference)
3. Do any of you guys do work for friends on the side? How much do you charge? I figured I could use this to pay off some of the start-up costs
4. How long does it take to do a correction for 1 person? I have a white car, my roommate has a black truck, and I have a champagne beater so I'd like to try on all 3.
5. In what stages can you mess things up? I remember reading that Clay&polishing are 2 sensitive times when doing this.
6. Are there step by step guides on how to do this, like the steps?

TIA

[AudiSportB5S4]

I can answer a few of them since I bought a machine from Phil a few years ago..

1.. I got a Porter Cable at first, which worked well for a couple years. I sold it for $125 after wanting a Flex because it's a better machine IMO and is a true dual action (rotary/orbital). The Flex was pretty expensive, around $325? Then you buy pads, which for $45 you can get 5 I think, which is a good way to go. I'd get two heavy cutting pads, a medium, polish, and wax pad. You can get the Porter Cable kit which comes with a bunch of stuff to get you started which is what I originally did. I recommend this. It's here.

2.I like Menzerna products, as do many. I also like Adam's products. A great wax that works wonders is Colinite. It's very durable the only problem can be getting it off the paint sometimes, takes some elbow grease even with a machine.

3. I used to, but it's a bitch. You really have to like this stuff to do it for other people.. LOL.

4. Honestly, if you want to do a good job you'll spend close to 4-5 hours on the first step. Polishing afterwards doesn't take that long, but still a couple, and then wax is quick. A full job IMO takes 8-10 hours of WORK.

5. Clay you have to have a lot of lube on the paint, and then the first step when compounding you're using an aggressive pad spinning at a high RPM and aggressive liquid to cut into it, have to be careful, but with the PC and even the Flex you'd really have to try to burn the paint. Rotary, different story.

6.

[helix139]

1. How much should I be looking to spend for EVERY SINGLE THING I need?

It depends on what you want to do, how fast you want to do it, and what level of correction you want to achieve. I'd say you can start in the $200-300 range if you do everything by hand and end up spending well into the thousands. For what you're talking about doing, I'd say you're looking at somewhere upwards of $700. You'll want to buy bulk quantities of your car wash, quick detailer, pads, towels, APC, etc. since you are talking about doing this for friends. I started pricing out what I would buy in your shoes at Detailers Domain and I quickly got up to the $800 mark and haven't even touched the interior.

2. What's a great list of these products (I know it's a lot of preference).

That really depends. Here are a few suggestions:

Adam's car wash, detail spray, and APC
Griot's orbital polisher
Sonax wheel cleaner
Menzerna or Meguiars compounds/polishes
Einszett Glanz sealant
Einszett Cockpit
Einszett window cleaner
Einszett bug remover
Uber towels and pads
EZ Detail brush (for the wheels)
Nanoskin Autoscrub fine kit with Glide
Sonax wheel cleaner
Wolf's decon gel
Any of Wolf's sealant products
Leatherique or Leathermasters for leather interior
Armor All Wheel protectant

4. How long does it take to do a correction for 1 person? I have a white car, my roommate has a black truck, and I have a champagne beater so I'd like to try on all 3.

Start with the beater to get used to using the orbital. Always try the least aggressive option first. The length of time it will take is going to depend on what kind of condition the paint is in and how big the car is. A full multi-step on a truck or SUV can take multiple days. The black truck will probably take the longest because it's big and because it's black.

5. In what stages can you mess things up? I remember reading that Clay&polishing are 2 sensitive times when doing this.

Any of them. A couple big ones are washing and drying if you use bad technique and/or dirty wash mitts or towels, and as you mentioned, claying (you can't use too much lubricant), and compounding (you can remove too much of the clearcoat). Polishing can also be risky if you already have a thin clearcoat and are using something without diminishing abrasives or if the polish dries out and cakes up on your pads.

6. Are there step by step guides on how to do this, like the steps?

Plenty. Adam's videos at Adamspolishes.com are a good place to start. Also, check out Phil@detailersdomain's writeups. Basically, you want to wash, decontaminate with Isopropyl Alcohol, decon gel and clay/autoscrub, correct the paint (clear with isopropyl alcohol between correction steps and start with the least aggressive option), then seal.

[AudiA4_20T]

where does compounding come in?

[helix139]

where does compounding come in?

Compounds are an aggressive abrasive polish. Typically you would use them if you found that a medium polish didn't have enough cut to remove your defects. Usually this means you have a harder clear coat, you have wet sanded the car, or your clear coat has some fairly nasty swirls/scratches.

[kickr]

Expect to spend no less than $1000 if you opt for an orbital flex and everything that is required for a proper interior and exterior detail. Some great products were mentioned and if you stick with vendors such as detailersdomain & detailedimage, you can hardly go wrong on products with good reviews. Obviously there are differences to each and some prefer one over the other, but at the end of the day, they all get the work done.

If you are looking for 90-95% correction on a black Mercedes clearcoat with only an orbital, expect to spend an easy 20 hours. The same correction on an Infiniti clearcoat can be achieved in much less time because of different clearcoat. Audi's clearcoat seems to be different based on MY's.

The best way of learning is watching online videos and really just going at it, starting with slow speeds and finishing polishes. Stay clear of unprotected edges and continuously move the buffer. An orbital won't build up much heat, but better safe than burning through clearcoat.

PM me your email and I can send you a very detailed instructional PDF that is an awesome read for anyone really. Also, in October there will be a free detailing class in Miami I believe. Since you are in Ft Lauderdale, it should be worth checking out. More in pm though if you'd like. I did not see a mention of it in this section and would hate to get in trouble for whatever reason.

[maga4]

A good way to get a list of good products is to look at the posts that phil has started with cars he has detailed. Always lists what products are used during it.

[AudiA4_20T]

Expect to spend no less than $1000 if you opt for an orbital flex and everything that is required for a proper interior and exterior detail. Some great products were mentioned and if you stick with vendors such as detailersdomain & detailedimage, you can hardly go wrong on products with good reviews. Obviously there are differences to each and some prefer one over the other, but at the end of the day, they all get the work done.

If you are looking for 90-95% correction on a black Mercedes clearcoat with only an orbital, expect to spend an easy 20 hours. The same correction on an Infiniti clearcoat can be achieved in much less time because of different clearcoat. Audi's clearcoat seems to be different based on MY's.

The best way of learning is watching online videos and really just going at it, starting with slow speeds and finishing polishes. Stay clear of unprotected edges and continuously move the buffer. An orbital won't build up much heat, but better safe than burning through clearcoat.

PM me your email and I can send you a very detailed instructional PDF that is an awesome read for anyone really. Also, in October there will be a free detailing class in Miami I believe. Since you are in Ft Lauderdale, it should be worth checking out. More in pm though if you'd like. I did not see a mention of it in this section and would hate to get in trouble for whatever reason.

Absolutely. I'll shoot you a PM. What do you mean by unprotected edges?

A good way to get a list of good products is to look at the posts that phil has started with cars he has detailed. Always lists what products are used during it.

I do lurk and check those posts out

------------

Another Question: I have brushed aluminum mirror caps and window trim on my S4 that has been pretty beaten up by the sun. Which products are best for that? Also, I noticed someone said to start without an orbital flex. I can do this by hand?

[dannyn424]

for my very first time recently, I used megs claybar (got orange rust on clay, guess needed it), got a random orbital from kawasaki($25) and used zymol wash with wool mit, then megs ultimate compound, ulitmate polish, and ultimate wax and came out great.....

next time i quickly claybarred (got nothing) then washed with gold class and used collinite 476s and it dried when I came around to wipe it off... I went to two exterior washes then wiped it off... the shell was thick after the washes and hard as candy... used eagle spray was to help buff out collinite.... never gonna buy collinite again!!
looked awesome!!

This time Im gnna maybe get a decontimation gel, skip clay bar and wash with Gold Class then use nufinish cling, but one panel at a time....

Now I got a nice collection of chemicals!!

[helix139]

for my very first time recently, I used megs claybar (got orange rust on clay, guess needed it), got a random orbital from kawasaki($25) and used zymol wash with wool mit, then megs ultimate compound, ulitmate polish, and ultimate wax and came out great.....

next time i quickly claybarred (got nothing) then washed with gold class and used collinite 476s and it dried when I came around to wipe it off... I went to two exterior washes then wiped it off... the shell was thick after the washes and hard as candy... used eagle spray was to help buff out collinite.... never gonna buy collinite again!!
looked awesome!!

This time Im gnna maybe get a decontimation gel, skip clay bar and wash with Gold Class then use nufinish cling, but one panel at a time....

Now I got a nice collection of chemicals!!

Why are you claying before you wash? And FYI, a decon gel doesn't replace claying. Wash > decon > clay > compound/polish/glaze > IPA > seal/wax

[kickr]

Absolutely. I'll shoot you a PM. What do you mean by unprotected edges?



I do lurk and check those posts out

------------

Another Question: I have brushed aluminum mirror caps and window trim on my S4 that has been pretty beaten up by the sun. Which products are best for that? Also, I noticed someone said to start without an orbital flex. I can do this by hand?

PM replied.

Again, not so much of an issue with an orbital because of minimal heat build up, but just to be on the safe side, avoid touching body panel edges that are exposed, as in not level with the surface you are working on. Most edges line up nicely with other body panels, but sometimes the workmanship is not all that or you have a fender cutout, so just be careful.

I do not see anyone recommeding not to use a buffer, but to answer your questions, you can not do proper paint correction by hand. Just make sure to get an orbital and not a rotary.

[kickr]

for my very first time recently, I used megs claybar (got orange rust on clay, guess needed it), got a random orbital from kawasaki($25) and used zymol wash with wool mit, then megs ultimate compound, ulitmate polish, and ultimate wax and came out great.....

next time i quickly claybarred (got nothing) then washed with gold class and used collinite 476s and it dried when I came around to wipe it off... I went to two exterior washes then wiped it off... the shell was thick after the washes and hard as candy... used eagle spray was to help buff out collinite.... never gonna buy collinite again!!
looked awesome!!

This time Im gnna maybe get a decontimation gel, skip clay bar and wash with Gold Class then use nufinish cling, but one panel at a time....

Now I got a nice collection of chemicals!!

If you had troubles with the Collonite 476, then you applied it too thick and waited to long to remove it. You did not apply it in direct sunlight, did you?

[dannyn424]

You know i did and the can was so hot from being in my trunk that the consistency was like warm butter so I was left with a rock hard shell that freaked me out and wouldnt wipe off....... I'm gonna use an easier paste wax next time.. either synwax or ultimate again....

but im gonna wash nxt time and try nufinish cling one panel at at time.....

[ENV²]

Seems a lot of people have good advice here. I detail for extra money on occasion. It can take a long time. If you look at Phils threads here its usually multiple people working on the cars and the cars are there for at least a full day.

You can spend anywhere from 700-800 range into the 2000-3000 range. I had a PC and moved to Griots. I like the Griots Orbital much more and it has a lifetime warranty. I may get a Makita at some point but to give you an idea. It took me 2 days of WORK to complete a detail on a Denali that a customer brought to me...

Einsett Glanz is my favorite wax (it can be layered)
Hydro Express is an excellent spray sealant as well
Leather Masters is hat I use on my car and fine leather interiors
You can use Lexol for the vinylish cheaper leathers and it works wonders as well.

[dannyn424]

EDIT ... I may have washed first then clayed, then washed again...... both times... I was looking for something quicker since the claying the second time didnt pick up barley anything and wanted to save time next time........

[helix139]

If you want something quicker than claying, look at the Nanoskin Autoscrub used with an orbital polisher.

[AudiA4_20T]

Seems a lot of people have good advice here. I detail for extra money on occasion. It can take a long time. If you look at Phils threads here its usually multiple people working on the cars and the cars are there for at least a full day.

You can spend anywhere from 700-800 range into the 2000-3000 range. I had a PC and moved to Griots. I like the Griots Orbital much more and it has a lifetime warranty. I may get a Makita at some point but to give you an idea. It took me 2 days of WORK to complete a detail on a Denali that a customer brought to me...

Einsett Glanz is my favorite wax (it can be layered)
Hydro Express is an excellent spray sealant as well
Leather Masters is hat I use on my car and fine leather interiors
You can use Lexol for the vinylish cheaper leathers and it works wonders as well.

Well I'd rather just go with the better one first, so which should I get? The griots looks like ~$125, Makita looks like ~$225, what's the difference?

[AudiA4_20T]

also what's the difference between orbital and rotary and do I need both?

[FLASHMSTRC]

also what's the difference between orbital and rotary and do I need both?

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/ge...tions/6052.htm

[AudiA4_20T]

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/ge...tions/6052.htm

Interesting. well I will be starting on my 1988 Jetta so I'm not too worried about burning the paint. I don't know if I should just grab a rotary from the get go

[FLASHMSTRC]

I had a rotary but never felt like I got the hand of it, using the DA Orbital is night and day different, I would go with the Griot's from Detailer's Domain.

[helix139]

Interesting. well I will be starting on my 1988 Jetta so I'm not too worried about burning the paint. I don't know if I should just grab a rotary from the get go

If you are inexperienced, go with the orbital. You really only need a rotary for major corrections.

[FITZ TITS]

Since no one else will say it...dannyn424 has no business giving advice in this thread.

[dannyn424]

I am not a professional detailer but wanted to express the fact that I got good results using primarily otc products....

[AudiA4_20T]

Ok, also, I have aluminum trim and mirror caps on the S4, and they are very sundamaged, how do I fix that?

[helix139]

Ok, also, I have aluminum trim and mirror caps on the S4, and they are very sundamaged, how do I fix that?

actual aluminum or plastic painted with an aluminum color?

[AudiA4_20T]

actual aluminum or plastic painted with an aluminum color?

It's an S4, I think the mirror caps are actually aluminum?

[helix139]

It's an S4, I think the mirror caps are actually aluminum?

It depends. On the newer S4s they are plastic but painted with an aluminum look paint.

[AudiA4_20T]

It's an 04

[FITZ TITS]

It depends. On the newer S4s they are plastic but painted with an aluminum look paint.

Are you sure ours are plastic?

[kickr]

Working on aluminum trim can be quite challenging and often results in failure, because there is no one proven method to the madness. You will have to find out if it is plastic or not. If it is not, then the next question would be clearcoated or anodized. I believe most newer trims are anodized, which requires for the trim to first be removed, then de-anodized and then polished as only the polishing step supposedly will not get you anywhere.

I am no expert with anodized parts, so you might want to do some research yourself in that regard. What you can try maybe is use some plastiX (very light abbrasive) or metal polish and with the hand and piece of cloth work a very small area. If you see no improvement whatsoever with little effort, more won't get you anywhere. If you believe you see improvement, wait a few days and see if the results remain before working on more trim.

Sorry I did not have a better answer for you.

[helix139]

Are you sure ours are plastic?

Yep, positive.

[AudiA4_20T]

this is a bummer. It's real oxidized