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  1. #1
    Registered Member One Ring savesthabay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 14 2012
    AZ Member #
    96840
    My Garage
    01 Audi A4 2.8L S-Line, 91 ford ranger 3.0L
    Location
    san jose, ca

    2001 audi a4 2.8l 30v - voltage drops/power loss

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    Hey everyone,
    Im going to give a descriptive account of events so the experts know the circumstances.

    I bought this audi a few weeks ago. It came with a bad alternator but was about to drive it home, only have to jump once over 85 miles. A few days later, a mechanic friend and i take out the alternator and take it to the auto parts store to test, I was told it doesn't even test to 90 amps and their was coolant corrosion which is indicated it failed from a coolant short. So i then bought a brand new alternator and pop it in. Put the front end back together properly and fire up the car. Everything looked good and the voltage meter held at a steady 13.8 to 14. Three days later i notice a leak, it is from a short hose right next to the alternator. It had a burst with a half inch flap. It was not a vigorous drip so i put gorilla tape around it and zip tied it. (I know not the best but i couldnt fix it that day) Just 3 days later I replace the hose and there is no leak. DURING THE PAST 6 DAYS of dealing with the hose, the voltage was great and holding. So on the 6th day I fix the hose, I start to have voltage drops on my gauge. It ranges from 10 to 13v. 12v average when in gear and driving, but dips to 10 often. BUT, when in park it has a steady 13 (decent). My voltage gauge also dips when i roll down the windows, use the brake, use the gas (accelerate) or use the blinkers (which throbs to the pulse of the blink) or pretty much anything electric. So i wait 3 days and run another diagnostic and clear the computer. After that the voltage RETURNED TO 14v and held for about 10 miles. Then i start to see it dip slowly down to an average of 11-12v. (then back to the drops when using electrics) It has been like that for the past week, my mechanic friend and I are running out of ideas and would like an experts opinion. I have tried swapping the battery with my other car and it does the same. Because the battery already had a nice charge it was good for the day. But the day after it started doing the same thing, so i switched them back. Please list any ideas you have, I have tried a bunch already, too many to remember or list. Knowing i have a good alternator and battery.



    Diagnostic scan from when i bought the car:
    Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
    Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-ATQ.lbl
    Part No: 3B0 907 551 BQ
    Component: 2.8L V6/5V G 0001
    Coding: 07551
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 73E564F941AE091

    4 Faults Found:
    18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
    P1624 - 35-00 -
    17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45)
    P1569 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 - 35-00 - Voltage too Low
    16947 - System Voltage
    P0563 - 35-10 - Too High - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 1000

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
    Part No: 8D0 927 156 AS
    Component: AG5 01V 2.8l5V USA 3132
    Coding: 00004
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 7EF345CD7AEC549

    2 Faults Found:
    17125 - Torque Converter Clutch
    P0741 - 35-00 - Stuck OFF / No Power being transferred
    18159 - Supply Voltage
    P1751 - 35-10 - too High - Intermittent

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-ASR.lbl
    Part No: 3B0 614 111
    Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT D00
    Coding: 00031
    Shop #: WSC 06435
    VCID: D3A5447921EEE91

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8D0-820-043-1D.lbl
    Part No: 8D0 820 043 Q
    Component: A4 KLIMAAUTOMAT D58
    Coding: 00160
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 2E53B58DEA0C649

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8D0-959-655-AI8.lbl
    Part No: 8D0 959 655 G
    Component: Airbag Front+Kopf 1002
    Coding: 00304
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 3A7B89DD2644B89

    1 Fault Found:
    00532 - Supply Voltage B+
    07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
    Part No: 8D0 920 980 DX
    Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D13
    Coding: 02262
    Shop #: WSC 54321
    VCID: 8407B7259400BE9

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl
    Part No: 8L0 862 257 N
    Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D16
    Coding: 16140
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 408FFB354098E29

    3 Faults Found:
    01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
    35-00 - -
    01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
    35-00 - -
    00955 - Key 1
    09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl
    Part No: 4B0 951 173
    Component: Innenraumueberw. D03
    Coding: 00101
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: E0CF9BB56058029

    2 Faults Found:
    01382 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Left
    35-00 - -
    01383 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Right
    35-00 - -

    End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    Last edited by savesthabay; 07-15-2012 at 06:49 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Three Rings A-FourLO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2011
    AZ Member #
    85848
    My Garage
    A4 3.0 6-speed M/T FWD
    Location
    miami

    try to disconnect the battery when the car is running and note what happens. Its not impossible for new parts to be defective so maybe your new alternator could be defective or it may have shorted again from getting some coolant on it. I would say fix the coolant leak first before you replace the alternator again. IF you remove your battery and the car shuts off its clear cut your alternator is bad.
    2002 A4 3.0 V6-6speed converted to FWD
    (Best): 185fwhp @6500RPM/177fwtq @4600RPM 3400lbs w/ Driver
    9.930 @ 72.1mph 1/8th mile
    (Stock): 156awhp @6000RPM/182awtq @3500RPM
    10.369 @67mph, 1/8th mile
    Dynos & Progress Thread
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rogress-thread



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