2011 Shelby Mustang Enhancement Detail

[OTDetailer]

Hi guys

I have a 2011 Shelby mustang in for an Enhancement detail (one last time before I'm moving to California ). Car was very dirty and the paint was looking very sorry. There was lots tar on the lower panels, anyways I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Here's was the process

• Wheels and Tires clean with strong dilution of APC
• Presoak with OPC 5:1 and Foamed
• Rinse and wash with 2BM
• Paint was decontaminated chemically and with clay
• Rinse and IPA
• Polish with Meg 205
• Paint/glass cleanse with BF gloss enhancer
• Paint for BFWD
• Glass and wheel got Opti-seal
• Interior wipe down and vacuum

[OTDetailer]

Thanks for viewing!!
any questions or comments are welcome!

[pokerfad]

What ratio do you dilute apc to? I usually use Adams apc undiluted on my tires, is this not recommended? Too strong? Looks great btw!! Enjoy your posts

[OTDetailer]

What ratio do you dilute apc to? I usually use Adams apc undiluted on my tires, is this not recommended? Too strong? Looks great btw!! Enjoy your posts

Thanks!

The strongest I ever dilute APC is 1 part APC 3 part water. You can use APC undiluted, but I just choose to dilute mines to last me longer. Try it!

[VroomVroom]

Nice work, and great pics! That's a sweet car, and the detail effort really brings out the best in that sweet color. Well done!

FYI...unless you're cleaning up after a murder, using full strength APC is definitely a waste. More so with Adams, IME...that stuff seems to leave a filmy residue that is a pain to rinse away. I'd imagine at full strength it's a nightmare. For tires, 4:1 or even 6:1 should be fine - let it dwell for a bit, and let your tire brush do the hard work.

[OTDetailer]

Thanks Jerry! when are you going to detail your avant and post some pictures ?! :)

[pokerfad]

Nice work, and great pics! That's a sweet car, and the detail effort really brings out the best in that sweet color. Well done!

FYI...unless you're cleaning up after a murder, using full strength APC is definitely a waste. More so with Adams, IME...that stuff seems to leave a filmy residue that is a pain to rinse away. I'd imagine at full strength it's a nightmare. For tires, 4:1 or even 6:1 should be fine - let it dwell for a bit, and let your tire brush do the hard work.

thanks! How about using APC for a paint decontaminate to remove any residual waxes/ sealants 10:1?

[VroomVroom]

Thanks Jerry! when are you going to detail your avant and post some pictures ?! :)

When and if it ever stops raining here, I'm definitely looking forward to putting in the time. I just got a lead on a good PDR tech, so I need to get a few small dings handled first. You mentioned California...you mind sharing where you'll be living? All the best with the move!

thanks! How about using APC for a paint decontaminate to remove any residual waxes/ sealants 10:1?

I suppose you could...I've never tried it. Something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, or even Griot's Paint Prep...or heck, a quick wash using Dawn...will accomplish the same thing. Between that and a clay treatment, you definitely won't have any wax residue. Honestly, unless the vehicle was just recently waxed, I haven't found this step to be necessary.

[pokerfad]

When and if it ever stops raining here, I'm definitely looking forward to putting in the time. I just got a lead on a good PDR tech, so I need to get a few small dings handled first. You mentioned California...you mind sharing where you'll be living? All the best with the move!


I suppose you could...I've never tried it. Something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, or even Griot's Paint Prep...or heck, a quick wash using Dawn...will accomplish the same thing. Between that and a clay treatment, you definitely won't have any wax residue. Honestly, unless the vehicle was just recently waxed, I haven't found this step to be necessary.

Thanks for this information. Obviously I am a newb, but I have the detailing bug to go with (2) 2012 Audi's in my garage now so I want to go about things in the proper fashion to achieve the best overall appearance as well as preserving the overall "health" of the coating of my vehicles. I really value everyone's expertise and opinions on this site very much. Have you ever used chemical guys 50/50 wax? I am thinking about using this my Q5 and the next full detail I give my A7. Thanks again!!!

[pokerfad]

I also have a bottle of aquartz iron cut. When would you recommend this product to be used on paint? I am guessing it would be a useful tool on a neglected finish that has a lot of oxidation on it?

[VroomVroom]

CG 50/50 will look GREAT on Daytona Grey. You'll be very happy every time you walk up to your Q, and you'll have to turn around once or twice every time you walk away.

I'm not at all familiar with the AQuartz product, so I'll shut up on that one. However, given that you've got two new vehicles that you obviously maintain well, I can't imagine you'll need to go to extremes. If you get down to doing a true correction detail, it's probably worth having a truly clean finish, but otherwise, Mother Nature will do most of that work for you. Sealants are more durable than waxes, but even the good polymer products will deteriorate after a few months.

Once you've got the finish where you want it, the best way to maintain it is to safely/carefully wash the vehicle on a routine basis, and follow up once every four-six weeks with another light coat of your favorite sealant and/or wax. This will keep the finish looking great, and you'll know by look & feel when it's time to do another clay treatment and any correction work.

[pokerfad]

Thank you. I have a cam spray foam cannon that I absolutely love! I have a few different shampoos depending upon what my goal is in terms of a wash pre wax or a was between waxes. I just order the citrus shampoo for pre waxing, I have the lusso auto bath as well as some megs was and wax which I have really found is quite good and was very impressed with the gloss it provided my A7. I also performed a paint correction on my father's 04' BMW 750 LI which he has been using a BRUSH on to wash he told me. I was very pleased with the results i received after washing/clay using a girots DA with megs ultimate compound and an uber orange pad followed by megs ultimate polish w/ a green uber pad and finished it off with megs ultimate liquid wax applied w/ an uber black pad. All in all considering the 7 hours I spent on it from start to finish I was very pleased and my Dad, even at his age of 70, was floored by the results. My wife can't figure out why I enjoy spending 8 hours on my knees and such detailing these cars as a hobby, but i truly love it. I wish I had taken before and after shots of the 750 which was my first true detail with correction, but there will be more to follow.

[OTDetailer]

thanks! How about using APC for a paint decontaminate to remove any residual waxes/ sealants 10:1?

I would use stoners tarminator for white wax residual.

[OTDetailer]

I also have a bottle of aquartz iron cut. When would you recommend this product to be used on paint? I am guessing it would be a useful tool on a neglected finish that has a lot of oxidation on it?

Iron cut is used before or after clay. But I use it after clay because iron is a heavier contaminate than tree sap, which it's on surface that only a clay can remove. Iron cut is only for iron particles. Make sense?

[OTDetailer]

Jeff I will be moving to north east of LA county

[pokerfad]

Iron cut is used before or after clay. But I use it after clay because iron is a heavier contaminate than tree sap, which it's on surface that only a clay can remove. Iron cut is only for iron particles. Make sense?

So it's not just a clever name ;) thanks. I wasn't sure if it had any other cleaning properties to it. I used after a wash pre-clay on my Dad's 04' 750LI and used a damp microfiber washmit to spread over the car then rinsed and clayed. It def worked b/c it turned red/purple as it worked into the surface.