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  1. #11281
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K04-B6 View Post
    If my coolant flange leaks slowly where the sensor sits do you guys think it would cause a stumble at idle and possibly a lean code when cruising on the highway?

    Thanks guys.
    A faulty CTS would cause starting/idle issues, but I don't think it would do anything with A/F mixture.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  2. #11282
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    A faulty CTS would cause starting/idle issues, but I don't think it would do anything with A/F mixture.
    Thanks for the response, the sensor still works fine but I was thinking that with the leak it might get a bad reading (like air gets in once in a while) causing the idle issue. When it's hot here my car idles fine, it's a little cooler today and the idle issue came up, it's not a major idle issue, it just stumbles almost like a quick misfire here and there. I didn't think that it would affect my A/F mixture but I was just making sure because I never know with this car. One thing goes wrong and it affects the whole performance of the car.

    Thanks again
    2002 1.8T Quattro
    Fully loaded APR ECU / K04-15 Turbo / 386cc injectors / Magnaflow dp-back exhaust / Forge 008 DV / 034 street density motor mounts / 034 street density tranny mount / 034 snub mount / Unitronics 3" HFC - DP combo ''last one ever made in production'' / Racetec front mount intercooler

  3. #11283
    Senior Member Four Rings Luxus Panzer's Avatar
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    Apr 15 2014
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    My Garage
    B6 A4 Avant, B4 90 Sprot Q, B4 90 FWD, 2014 VW Tiguan
    Location
    Ottawa/Gatineau Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    It will be a lot easier to disconnect the sway bar with the car up on ramps. that way there's no hanging download on the sway bar at all. Sway bar load will be completely neutral. Disconnect both sides at the same time.


    Just thinking about this (disconnecting the sway bar to get at the motor mounts).

    Could I not just remove the 2 mounts for the sway bar under the "center" of the car and then loosen the bolts on the end of the sway bar...allowing me to then simply "swing" the entire sway bar down and out of the way?

    Or am I thinking to hard on this one ?
    2004 A4 Avant Quattro. (H&R springs, S100 Nav unit, Neuspeed Cat back, Torque solutions Snub mount, Thor Skid Plate, APR Stage 1, 18" S4 Rims, 2X Podi / Oil Press / Oil Temp / Boost/VAC, Full LED interior, Backup Camera/Screen, Upgraded 2.0 Coil Packs, Vag-Com, B7 Center console/B7 Hand Brake, B7 Aero wiper arms B7 rear headreasts,APR Carbonio intake, Fan washer sprayers, rusty door bottoms, need new doors)
    2014 VW Tiguan. (bone stock)

  4. #11284
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    What is the torque specs for exhaust manifold studs to head? And how about the nuts for the exhaust manifold?
    Or do I just put the studs in hand tight and then torque the nuts to spec?
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  5. #11285
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZipMeUpJ's Avatar
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    Nov 12 2012
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    103921
    My Garage
    hologram R8
    Location
    boston

    What would take out the most driveline slop, the billet carrier inserts or the diff mount itself?
    stock 1.8t 5spd FW(trash) Quattro swap (in progress) | audiUP snub | Depo Ecodes | Mini H1 retro | 4300k | 07k FSI coils | BKR6E | de-badged | BC Type BR | Swift | BBS LM Reps 18x9.5 | 25FTG F+R | Tasteful poke

  6. #11286
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZipMeUpJ View Post
    What would take out the most driveline slop, the billet carrier inserts or the diff mount itself?
    I'm currently running just the inserts. They took a yuge amount of slop out, haven't really felt the need to drop money on the diff mount yet. Been considering doing the ghetto race version by filling the voids with window weld. lol.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  7. #11287
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZipMeUpJ's Avatar
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    hologram R8
    Location
    boston

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    I'm currently running just the inserts. They took a yuge amount of slop out, haven't really felt the need to drop money on the diff mount yet. Been considering doing the ghetto race version by filling the voids with window weld. lol.
    I was leaning towards the inserts as well. They do stiffen the placement of the entire diff from two different sides . I'm also assuming this kind of upgrade is dependant on the mount itself not being entirely toast (eg. the rubber connecting the bolt hole to the outer bushing ring are still intact). I haven't taken a look at the rear swap parts I have lying in my garage in some time.

    Are you running the 034 billet or the poly ECS unit?
    stock 1.8t 5spd FW(trash) Quattro swap (in progress) | audiUP snub | Depo Ecodes | Mini H1 retro | 4300k | 07k FSI coils | BKR6E | de-badged | BC Type BR | Swift | BBS LM Reps 18x9.5 | 25FTG F+R | Tasteful poke

  8. #11288
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    What is the torque specs for exhaust manifold studs to head? And how about the nuts for the exhaust manifold?
    Or do I just put the studs in hand tight and then torque the nuts to spec?
    So, I found that the torque for the exhaust manifold nuts is 25Nm or 19 ft-lbs. But I'm still wondering if I should just install the studs into the head hand-tight and then tighten the nuts onto them (with manifold on, of course) to 19 ft-lbs?
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  9. #11289
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
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    NH
    Items for Sale

    how else would you do it? always make sure studs are fully seated before torquing, that goes for any stud. Otherwise you run the risk of not having as strong as a clamp and possibly stripping threads, now at 25nm thats very unlikely but its a good habit to always install studs all the way first.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  10. #11290
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZipMeUpJ View Post
    I was leaning towards the inserts as well. They do stiffen the placement of the entire diff from two different sides . I'm also assuming this kind of upgrade is dependant on the mount itself not being entirely toast (eg. the rubber connecting the bolt hole to the outer bushing ring are still intact). I haven't taken a look at the rear swap parts I have lying in my garage in some time.

    Are you running the 034 billet or the poly ECS unit?
    Oh yeah, definitely can't have the rubber portion of the bushing be torn.

    I'm running the 034 billet ones.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  11. #11291
    Senior Member Four Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
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    Aug 11 2014
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    My Garage
    03' 5spQ with extras
    Location
    Kissimmee
    Items for Sale

    Question:


    In the next week or so I'm going to be doing a full engine rebuild/swap..... some of the bolts I'm removing are discoloured due to weather, time, grease etc.

    My question is what is a good product to get them clean... I tried brake Kleen and gumout products but still are looking aged.

    Anyone know a good product I can use to soak bolts or take a toothbrush to some metal parts (throttle body)

    Thanks you

  12. #11292
    Established Member Two Rings
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    My Garage
    06 Grand cherokee, b6 a4
    Location
    Philadelphia

    Maybe Try lightly sanding them and then hit them with a metal polish
    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    Question:


    In the next week or so I'm going to be doing a full engine rebuild/swap..... some of the bolts I'm removing are discoloured due to weather, time, grease etc.

    My question is what is a good product to get them clean... I tried brake Kleen and gumout products but still are looking aged.

    Anyone know a good product I can use to soak bolts or take a toothbrush to some metal parts (throttle body)

    Thanks you

  13. #11293
    Established Member Two Rings Moncion's Avatar
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    Ontario

    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    Question:


    In the next week or so I'm going to be doing a full engine rebuild/swap..... some of the bolts I'm removing are discoloured due to weather, time, grease etc.

    My question is what is a good product to get them clean... I tried brake Kleen and gumout products but still are looking aged.

    Anyone know a good product I can use to soak bolts or take a toothbrush to some metal parts (throttle body)

    Thanks you
    Wire wheel for corrosion

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Audizine mobile app

  14. #11294
    Senior Member Four Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
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    Aug 11 2014
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    03' 5spQ with extras
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    Kissimmee
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    Bmase.... lightly sand with what? Like 1000grit or light wet sand or a rough pad.... thanks

    Moncion... wire wheel on a drill to get it clean? Dremel? Or you mean like a wire brush style?


    I appreacite the fast answer guys.... I will try these both tmrw and report back


  15. #11295
    Established Member Two Rings Moncion's Avatar
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    Ontario

    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    Bmase.... lightly sand with what? Like 1000grit or light wet sand or a rough pad.... thanks

    Moncion... wire wheel on a drill to get it clean? Dremel? Or you mean like a wire brush style?


    I appreacite the fast answer guys.... I will try these both tmrw and report back

    I use a wire wheel on a drill to clean the corrosion and gunk out of the threads as well as the rust on the heads.

  16. #11296
    Established Member Two Rings
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    My Garage
    06 Grand cherokee, b6 a4
    Location
    Philadelphia

    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    Bmase.... lightly sand with what? Like 1000grit or light wet sand or a rough pad.... thanks

    Moncion... wire wheel on a drill to get it clean? Dremel? Or you mean like a wire brush style?


    I appreacite the fast answer guys.... I will try these both tmrw and report back

    Dependes on how bling bling you want it(haha) and how much work you are looking to put into bolts There are people out there that polish to a mirror glaze. but im sure that they have spent hours on the bolts

  17. #11297
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Apr 07 2011
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    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by Moncion View Post
    I use a wire wheel on a drill to clean the corrosion and gunk out of the threads as well as the rust on the heads.
    This^^ My uncle has a wire wheel machine at his shop that I use to clean up all corroded bolts. Also used it to clean up the threads on my coilovers. They looked brand new when I was done and the adjusting rings spun like butter on them.

    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  18. #11298
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    Bmase.... lightly sand with what? Like 1000grit or light wet sand or a rough pad.... thanks

    Moncion... wire wheel on a drill to get it clean? Dremel? Or you mean like a wire brush style?


    I appreacite the fast answer guys.... I will try these both tmrw and report back

    The smallest bit from this set would work nicely.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  19. #11299
    Registered Member Two Rings wkhanna's Avatar
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    May 12 2017
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    My Garage
    needs cleaned
    Location
    Land of Archaic Anachronisims

    just get the proper type of media & one of these....

    Rotary Barrel Tumbler

    so long as you do not over load it (hardware to media ratio) you will not damage any external threads.
    2011 A5 2.0t coupe
    2012 A4 quattro 2.0t (The Wife's)
    1983 Porsche 944 (modified)
    1985 BWM K100RS (since new - Heavily Modified)
    1971 Moto Guzzi Ambassador (found in a barn - purrs like kitten)

  20. #11300
    Senior Member Four Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
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    03' 5spQ with extras
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    Kissimmee
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    This is great stuff guys!!! I really appreciate it.


    I have some options and time so I'll ya posted on em

    The tumbler has a "fluid" associated with it?

  21. #11301
    Established Member Three Rings B6_A4_Kid's Avatar
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    Dec 07 2015
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    My Garage
    89' Land Cruiser
    Location
    Springvile Utah

    I have a lead on a GVE 6 speed tranny out of an 06 A4 Quattro. Would that work with my b6 a4?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  22. #11302
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
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    as long as you have the matching rear diff and a the correct axles and propshaft, then yes it will fit.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  23. #11303
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B6_A4_Kid View Post
    I have a lead on a GVE 6 speed tranny out of an 06 A4 Quattro. Would that work with my b6 a4?
    wasn't there just a GJW or GJV in the classifieds?
    why not match and use what the car originally came with?

    the gear ratios probably differ.

    model: B7
    gearbox type: 02X
    identification code: GVE
    flywheel: probably a 240mm dual-mass

    whereas B6 1.8T might be 228mm

  24. #11304
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
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    NH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike00513 View Post
    wasn't there just a GJW or GJV in the classifieds?
    why not match and use what the car originally came with?

    the gear ratios probably differ.

    model: B7
    gearbox type: 02X
    identification code: GVE
    flywheel: probably a 240mm dual-mass

    whereas B6 1.8T might be 228mm
    flywheel doesn't matter as thats specific to the engine not transmission.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  25. #11305
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    flywheel doesn't matter as thats specific to the engine not transmission.
    just saying, in case the seller includes it.
    but seeing as it's used, by now it'd probably have over 100k mi, and I hear that it's better to be safe than sorry at that point and to just replace the kit with new. Apparently DMF's cannot simply be resurfaced to refresh it, and actually restoring one costs too much in tooling/equipment.
    Well in that case, since they may be made at an LuK factory, why is there no core charge? At least not on RockAuto.

    Anyway.
    Just saying.
    Something to keep in mind, if OP plans to make any clutch decisions while he's in there, with the gearbox removed from the car.
    such as picking an SMF kit or something.

    I think Kevin C installed a 240mm DMF on his 1.8T GJW.

  26. #11306
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Mar 21 2016
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    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    I know I should probably ask in the B7 forum but...I don't want to, lol.

    How's the market for B7 A4's?

    I found an 06 for cheap with about 150k miles and a pretty mint interior. Says it needs a timing belt and "the turbo needs repairing"...which is kinda sketchy. But I figure I can do the timing belt and maybe even replace the turbo for a pretty low price, so if I can get the car for cheap enough it would be a good pickup.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  27. #11307
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Ottawa, Ontario

    Does anybody know what the drive cycle is in KM's ti'll your CAT and 02S achieves readiness? I keep getting the P0171 code everyday around the same time on my drive into to work. I believe the code pops up right before my car sets readiness for CAT and 02S. I've narrowed down every possible leak I think I've found in my vacuum system and this problem persist. The only thing I can think of now is possibly the Fel-pro gasket I installed about a month ago that sits in-between the turbo and the CAT.

    So frustrated!!
    2002 1.8T Quattro
    Fully loaded APR ECU / K04-15 Turbo / 386cc injectors / Magnaflow dp-back exhaust / Forge 008 DV / 034 street density motor mounts / 034 street density tranny mount / 034 snub mount / Unitronics 3" HFC - DP combo ''last one ever made in production'' / Racetec front mount intercooler

  28. #11308
    Established Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    May 14 2013
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    115170
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    US

    I'm planning on ordering a set of coilpacks for our B6 A4 1.8t which is coming close to 145k and is still on it's OEM coilpacks (which I'm going to keep as spares in the trunk)

    From my searches, it seems like 06A905115D is the latest version. ECS has them listed at $29.02 each.

    What's throwing me off is 06B998115R. ECS has them at $116.08. But the picture they post showing the part number on the coilpack actually lists 06A905115D as the part number.

    Aside from those 2 part numbers, they also have 06B998115RED. ECS has these for $99.80.

    Is 06A905115D the latest revision coilpack for the 1.8T?
    Is 06B998115R just an ECS part number to denote a set of 4 06A905115D coilpacks? No other vendor has 06B998115R except ECS
    Finally, are 06B998115RED genuine VW coilpacks just like 06A905115D but simply in red? No other vendor has 06B998115RED either except ECS

    I don't really care what color the coilpacks are. If 06A905115D is the latest version and 06B998115RED are simply a set of 4 genuine red version 06A905115D coilpacks, then I'm going to order those since they're the best value.

    Hoping some around here knows.

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT ED Springs | OEM Homelink MIrror
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

  29. #11309
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Anybody? Does my theory make sense that the code pops up before readiness is set for CAT & O2S. I imagine these won't set until this code is clarified. I need to build my smoke machine ASAP!! The two possible leaks that I've found recently was my SAI block off plate had backed up a little and the O-ring melted (that's fixed) and I noticed that my vacuum line for the battery wasn't even plugged to the battery (fixed). Everything else is new as for vacuum lines so this code is really driving up the wall. If I do a smoke test will there be smoke going into the exhaust as well? I'd like to see if there's any leaks before the 02 sensors.


    Quote Originally Posted by K04-B6 View Post
    Does anybody know what the drive cycle is in KM's ti'll your CAT and 02S achieves readiness? I keep getting the P0171 code everyday around the same time on my drive into to work. I believe the code pops up right before my car sets readiness for CAT and 02S. I've narrowed down every possible leak I think I've found in my vacuum system and this problem persist. The only thing I can think of now is possibly the Fel-pro gasket I installed about a month ago that sits in-between the turbo and the CAT.

    So frustrated!!
    2002 1.8T Quattro
    Fully loaded APR ECU / K04-15 Turbo / 386cc injectors / Magnaflow dp-back exhaust / Forge 008 DV / 034 street density motor mounts / 034 street density tranny mount / 034 snub mount / Unitronics 3" HFC - DP combo ''last one ever made in production'' / Racetec front mount intercooler

  30. #11310
    Senior Member Two Rings Devin's Avatar
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    Mar 06 2012
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    89438
    Location
    Denver, Colorado

    Will HID headlights plug n play into a Halogen car?

  31. #11311
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devin View Post
    Will HID headlights plug n play into a Halogen car?
    Yes.

  32. #11312
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    Jul 31 2014
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    269656
    My Garage
    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
    Location
    NH
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by K04-B6 View Post
    Anybody? Does my theory make sense that the code pops up before readiness is set for CAT & O2S. I imagine these won't set until this code is clarified. I need to build my smoke machine ASAP!! The two possible leaks that I've found recently was my SAI block off plate had backed up a little and the O-ring melted (that's fixed) and I noticed that my vacuum line for the battery wasn't even plugged to the battery (fixed). Everything else is new as for vacuum lines so this code is really driving up the wall. If I do a smoke test will there be smoke going into the exhaust as well? I'd like to see if there's any leaks before the 02 sensors.
    plug your mufflers ad smoke test it. also have you checked around the injectors to see if the orings are not sealing anymore? I had a lean code due to this.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  33. #11313
    Senior Member Four Rings Luxus Panzer's Avatar
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    Apr 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    187873
    My Garage
    B6 A4 Avant, B4 90 Sprot Q, B4 90 FWD, 2014 VW Tiguan
    Location
    Ottawa/Gatineau Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by K04-B6 View Post
    Anybody? Does my theory make sense that the code pops up before readiness is set for CAT & O2S. I imagine these won't set until this code is clarified. I need to build my smoke machine ASAP!! The two possible leaks that I've found recently was my SAI block off plate had backed up a little and the O-ring melted (that's fixed) and I noticed that my vacuum line for the battery wasn't even plugged to the battery (fixed). Everything else is new as for vacuum lines so this code is really driving up the wall. If I do a smoke test will there be smoke going into the exhaust as well? I'd like to see if there's any leaks before the 02 sensors.
    Vac line to the battery?

    Me thinks you mean the drain line from the battery ;)
    2004 A4 Avant Quattro. (H&R springs, S100 Nav unit, Neuspeed Cat back, Torque solutions Snub mount, Thor Skid Plate, APR Stage 1, 18" S4 Rims, 2X Podi / Oil Press / Oil Temp / Boost/VAC, Full LED interior, Backup Camera/Screen, Upgraded 2.0 Coil Packs, Vag-Com, B7 Center console/B7 Hand Brake, B7 Aero wiper arms B7 rear headreasts,APR Carbonio intake, Fan washer sprayers, rusty door bottoms, need new doors)
    2014 VW Tiguan. (bone stock)

  34. #11314
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Ottawa, Ontario

    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    plug your mufflers ad smoke test it. also have you checked around the injectors to see if the orings are not sealing anymore? I had a lean code due to this.
    Smoke it from the muffler itself? Yeah I checked around the injectors and they seem fine but you never know I suppose. Once I smoke test everything I should be able to find out! (hopefully)

    Quote Originally Posted by Luxus Panzer View Post
    Vac line to the battery?

    Me thinks you mean the drain line from the battery ;)
    Yeah the drain line from the battery, do you know where it goes? When I blew in it, it sounded like it was blowing into the driver side fender into that plastic bottle (whatever its called) lol
    2002 1.8T Quattro
    Fully loaded APR ECU / K04-15 Turbo / 386cc injectors / Magnaflow dp-back exhaust / Forge 008 DV / 034 street density motor mounts / 034 street density tranny mount / 034 snub mount / Unitronics 3" HFC - DP combo ''last one ever made in production'' / Racetec front mount intercooler

  35. #11315
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    269656
    My Garage
    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
    Location
    NH
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by K04-B6 View Post
    Smoke it from the muffler itself? Yeah I checked around the injectors and they seem fine but you never know I suppose. Once I smoke test everything I should be able to find out! (hopefully)



    Yeah the drain line from the battery, do you know where it goes? When I blew in it, it sounded like it was blowing into the driver side fender into that plastic bottle (whatever its called) lol
    no, plug the mufflers(as in block them), that way you can smoke the the whole system, otherwise it will go the path of least resistance which is out the exhuast if you want to include your intake in the test. smoke goes in the intake with low pressure if possible. Also that battery line has nothing to do with vacuum its just a drain/vent for the battery if the acid where to ever overflow, also to prevent pressure in the battery if it gets hot. there is only a line there to prevent acid dripping on the battery tray if it were to happen.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  36. #11316
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    122596
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario

    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    no, plug the mufflers(as in block them), that way you can smoke the the whole system, otherwise it will go the path of least resistance which is out the exhuast if you want to include your intake in the test. smoke goes in the intake with low pressure if possible. Also that battery line has nothing to do with vacuum its just a drain/vent for the battery if the acid where to ever overflow, also to prevent pressure in the battery if it gets hot. there is only a line there to prevent acid dripping on the battery tray if it were to happen.
    Oh I see, I'll plug the mufflers and smoke from my tip to test the whole system. thanks for the input! I knew that the battery drain was for the overflow of acid but I had read somewhere while doing a search that it was hooked into the vacuum system to pull out any fumes.. and then when I blew into the line it sounded like he noise at the end came out into the fender so I thought that logic was correct. Thanks for clarifying that as well!

    I'll be doing my smoke test this weekend and report back if there's any findings or not! Time to put this annoying P0171 to rest!! I want full boost
    2002 1.8T Quattro
    Fully loaded APR ECU / K04-15 Turbo / 386cc injectors / Magnaflow dp-back exhaust / Forge 008 DV / 034 street density motor mounts / 034 street density tranny mount / 034 snub mount / Unitronics 3" HFC - DP combo ''last one ever made in production'' / Racetec front mount intercooler

  37. #11317
    Established Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Details on how you built a smoke machine? I thought about using a fog machine but not sure if that would work...
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

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