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  1. #11641
    Established Member Two Rings Razgriz227's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razgriz227 View Post
    Doing a clutch job this weekend or next, time depending. Never replaced a clutch before so I was wondering if I actually needed to replace all the bolts and everything as well? If it's not necessary I won't worry about it. I live in Arizona so nothing is rusted. Any other tips of course would be appreciated. I'm doing it on a lift so shouldn't be too hard of a job.


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    Anyone?


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  2. #11642
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    the only bolts you would need to replace are the flywheel to engine as they are tty, are you pulling just the transmission or whole engine and transmission out the front? Personally I pull the engine and trans out all at once, for me its faster and less aggravating when trying to align everything to put it back together. I can have the front of the car in about 45 minutes at normal pace. If you decide to do that I would replace the pcv (not the pancake valve but the one under the intake) and coolant flange now(5 minute job vs hours of swearing with it in the car).
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  3. #11643
    Established Member Two Rings Razgriz227's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    the only bolts you would need to replace are the flywheel to engine as they are tty, are you pulling just the transmission or whole engine and transmission out the front? Personally I pull the engine and trans out all at once, for me its faster and less aggravating when trying to align everything to put it back together. I can have the front of the car in about 45 minutes at normal pace. If you decide to do that I would replace the pcv (not the pancake valve but the one under the intake) and coolant flange now(5 minute job vs hours of swearing with it in the car).
    Thanks on the answer about the bolts. I planned on just dropping the trans but you bring up a excellent point. If my buddy ends up helping I might just pull it all together since I don't have any service history before I picked up the B6.


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  4. #11644
    Established Member Two Rings
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    05 A4 3.0, E46 M3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    So I have a torn inner CV boot on one of my front axles. I entered my Vin on Audi's site and it looks like I need part number 8E0-498-201-F, for a front inner boot, 3.0 Quattro manual.

    Do I really need to pay $65 for a rubber boot and a couple clamps? Or would I be ok getting a cheaper non-OEM boot?

    I have no problem spending $25 on all new hardware since they're single use bolts, but almost $70 for rubber just seems a little high...

    If it makes a difference, then, I guess I'll just go OEM.
    You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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  5. #11645
    Established Member Two Rings
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    05 A4 3.0, E46 M3
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    Has anyone removed a radio switch from their symphony II ?

    My scan button is badly scratched so I bought one from eBay. The seller says the old one can be pried out without disassembly of the radio. Is that true?




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  6. #11646
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuattroVAG View Post
    You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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    Thanks!
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  7. #11647
    Established Member Two Rings Kieron's Avatar
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    1967 Jensen Interceptor, 1988 TVR S1
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    What is the bung for on those cheap eBay cold air intakes? This: https://www.ebay.com/itm/270845917045
    I'm putting bits together for my mechanic to help me with a custom build. I have the turbo, dp, mani, s4 maf, and rods, so am picking at the ancillaries now. Does it need some sort of sensor on the air intake or will a big pipe n filter into the maf be ok? I am genuinely tech dumb but learning through this site.


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  8. #11648
    Established Member Three Rings
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    So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

    Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

    EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.
    Last edited by DarkoNova; 10-30-2017 at 06:03 AM.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  9. #11649
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

    Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

    EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.
    Those 6 bolts aren't TTY as far as I know. I do use some blue loctite on them.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  10. #11650
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Thanks, that's good enough for me, lol.

    Had to get a 3 jaw puller to pull the CV joint off the axle. Got the new boot on, now the fun part of trying to put the joint back on.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  11. #11651
    Senior Member Three Rings caldy315's Avatar
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    Is there any curb weight differences between 04-05 and/or A USP and a basic sport model? Trying to understand why the tires have a load difference

  12. #11652
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4audi4fun's Avatar
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    MY08 B7 2.0T Avant 6MTQS S-Line, 05 B6 3.0 6MTQS
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Is there any curb weight differences between 04-05 and/or A USP and a basic sport model? Trying to understand why the tires have a load difference
    3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

    This link is a good source for historical model year specs

    https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-...guide-audi-a4/

  13. #11653
    Senior Member Three Rings caldy315's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4audi4fun View Post
    3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

    This link is a good source for historical model year specs

    https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-...guide-audi-a4/
    Thanks! I need to read more into load index. Local Discount Tire wonít install my winter tires because my USP came with 230/40-18 and my winter tires Iíve used and recently bought are 225/45-17. Saying it doesnít meet the requirements

  14. #11654
    Senior Member Three Rings caldy315's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4audi4fun View Post
    3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

    This link is a good source for historical model year specs

    https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-...guide-audi-a4/
    Also noticed that they show in that spec sheet optional 16" and 17" wheels but no mention of 18's for 04 or 05? Wonder where I can find that info.

  15. #11655
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

    Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

    EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.
    They are not TTY. Look up the torque spec. If it doesn't say + some angle, they are NOT tty. Alldata sucks balls, but memory says they are 55 Nm.

  16. #11656
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4audi4fun's Avatar
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    MY08 B7 2.0T Avant 6MTQS S-Line, 05 B6 3.0 6MTQS
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Also noticed that they show in that spec sheet optional 16" and 17" wheels but no mention of 18's for 04 or 05? Wonder where I can find that info.
    For North America, I don't think 18" rims were available as an Audi factory option. The B7 press release specifically mentions 18" rims as part of the S-Line Package which replaced the Ultra Sport package from the B6 (2002-2005) range.

  17. #11657
    Established Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuattroVAG View Post
    You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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    Try to get GKN boots. I think they are the OE supplier, first rate.

  18. #11658
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ktq View Post
    Try to get GKN boots. I think they are the OE supplier, first rate.
    Interesting. I did not finish investigating this.
    to determine what boots exist, who makes them, etc.
    basically a comprehensive knowledge database, to choose the best one

    because I heard some are plastic while others are rubber,
    and I don't want to leave it to chance, and end up buying a low quality part.

    I read somewhere that there is even a material called Hytrel made by big chemical company DuPont,
    that is used for sand-rail / dune-buggy CV boots,

    I don't know much about the subject.
    Plane manufacturers for example, I hear claim a build date. That when an order for a plane is made (purchased), it can take them 3 years to complete.
    I say this, because my thought is about people with more money.
    Like Subaru, spending $1M+ on a rally car, to represent their brand, and win on a rally stage.

    So for them, for example, I will assume they've put thought into every single component of the car, to make it durable.
    including CV boots.
    I hear cars can be made up of around 22,000 parts.

    Audi for example, may have somewhat screwed us by cost-cutting, to save money, providing these cars with little to no interior sound-deadening, so that they're loud.
    so IDK what CV boots they chose.
    Must've been something good, if they lasted THIS long.
    but now that I'm servicing them, it's no longer their choice, but mine. So hopefully whatever I get, ends up lasting the same. (10+ years)
    because it's not a fun or easy part of the car to service.

    terminology such as OE vs. OEM, I still don't know much about it, or how it works.
    I am not only curious about how car companies build their cars,
    but also how parts companies build parts to be installed on those cars, or to be sold to me (the consumer) to maintain my car, and whether or not it's the same part even.

    I hear OE means Original Equipment and is what would've been installed at the factory
    whereas OEM means the Original Equipment Manufacturer company, still making the part at their own factory, but may not be to the same high quality spec.

    I am not asking other people do to the research for me. They probably won't. People are busy these days.
    Maybe I will.
    Just figured I'd elaborate a bit, on a subject that affects us all.

    or what about silicone?
    As you know, materials improve over time, and there are many choices.
    same reason why people replaced their vacuum lines with a cool-looking red silicone, instead of cloth-braided rubber.

  19. #11659
    Senior Member Three Rings caldy315's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4audi4fun View Post
    For North America, I don't think 18" rims were available as an Audi factory option. The B7 press release specifically mentions 18" rims as part of the S-Line Package which replaced the Ultra Sport package from the B6 (2002-2005) range.
    You mean they were just standard? USPs came with 18Ē standard, donít think there was a factory option for any5hing else.


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  20. #11660
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

    I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  21. #11661
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

    I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...
    lmao my driver side seat has the common tears on the "butox" section.
    Some black gorilla tape and a little heat and i have stopped the tear from getting larger. Blends in well once you sit on it
    02 B6 1.8T 5spd Brilliant Black, Gutted Stock Cat, 2.5" stainless custom exhaust to 4 inch tips no res no muffler,[I]
    Blacked out Front and Rear lower Valance, Front Head Light Clear Corner Mod, REVO Stage 1, Solo Werks S1 Coilovers
    Cold Air Intake Custom Piped, Forge Hybrid Diverter Valve, 3M Wrapped Carbon fiber interior trim, PCV/AC Delete Starting to fight rust

  22. #11662
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

    I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...
    It is costly. I replaced the bottom of my driver's Recaro seat. See here. I did the teardown myself, sourced the fabric and had an upholstery shop replace the fabric, then I re-assembled it. It still cost me around $300 for labour and materials. If you just bring the seat to a shop, it will be higher. Your best bet is to find a clean set of seats or just the skins if you're lucky. If you have black leather Recaros, it may be easier than the Alcantara combo I have.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  23. #11663
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    It is costly. I replaced the bottom of my driver's Recaro seat. See here. I did the teardown myself, sourced the fabric and had an upholstery shop replace the fabric, then I re-assembled it. It still cost me around $300 for labour and materials. If you just bring the seat to a shop, it will be higher. Your best bet is to find a clean set of seats or just the skins if you're lucky. If you have black leather Recaros, it may be easier than the Alcantara combo I have.
    Thanks for the info.

    Mine are platinum. The driver's seat has it the worst in terms of damage, upper bolster and seat bottom are torn and have chunks of leather coming off. But the passenger front seat leather is dried out really bad, like if you poke your finger on the seat you can crack the leather...
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  24. #11664
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    what do you think about these reverse light tint strips

    http://www.ebay.de/itm/C016-Ruckleuc...0AAOSwJQdXC6EO

    also, do they have to be pre-cut
    what if you just cut some tint; if so, what shade/kind

    and, should it be clear-coated over
    but it's still a thick tint film,
    what if instead, one just masks off the light, sprays a section of dark clear lacquer (thinner than film), and then clears over that
    hopefully it will retain gloss and not be too dark

    nevermind this sounds like a lot of work
    I'll just be simple and keep it stock for now
    but regardless, here's an idea I guess.

    I think Hella offers some housings with a similar effect for the VW Mk4 platform,
    idk how they make them.




    Not sure if it would dim the reverse light even more than it already is, necessitating a bulb upgrade

    whole aftermarket housing = ew





    no this is unsafe over red lights unless LED
    but still, the reflectors are meant to reflect at night when parked, to make the rear visible to passing cars



    here's a pic, but I didn't search well


  25. #11665
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    saw this in Bimmerpost E39 section.
    I wonder if it applies to B6 suspension option choice.

    Quote Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport
    I'm very happy with the German made Suspension Technique ST X coilovers. I previously had the Bilstein PSS B14 for several years and 150k miles.....had multiple issues and sent them back repeatedly for warranty rebuild. Finally threw in the towel (they at least refunded my money). The ST X coilovers are much more comfortable, with a ride only slightly stiffer than the oem sport suspension. (admittedly the B14 kit handled better, but was rather harsh...noticeably so for my passengers)

    If you order the ST X, here are my suggestions. Order the M5 application, it differs from the one spec'd for all other E39s in only two ways: It has more threads on the front strut body so you can raise the car more, to compensate for the additional weight (you won't need this)...you can still lower the same amount. And it includes the upper strut mounts for the front, so they come "ready to install", yet they cost exactly the same as the version without the mounts and additional threading. (its a no brainer to order the M5 version) Front upper strut mounts will easily cost you $75 for the pair.

    Cost on Ebay is around $975 with shipping. I did a little negotiating with an Ebay seller with a "best offer" and they finally accepted $925 with free ship. Once a year, ST offers a mail in rebate of $100 for May/June, you just missed it. So I netted at $825 for a nice coilover set up.

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1043753

  26. #11666
    Active Member One Ring
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    Went to change my puddle lights and was following the instructions from a previous post. Seems simple enough except my existing puddle lights don't seem to want to come out. I can drop the first clip easy enough but the other clip feels very tight as though it would break if I pull any harder. Anyone else have this issue?? Tempted to try again and pull harder but don't want to break anything or pull wiring apart. Does this sound normal?

  27. #11667
    Veteran Member Four Rings freeloader700's Avatar
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    Having a hard time finding it. What is the torque spec for the four T55 bolts holding the two halfs of a S4 caliper together?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    2003 A4 1.8TQM // Motoza K04 Hybrid // Franken F21// 550cc // TR18T // Test Pipe // FSI Coils // Forge Splitter // 034 RSB & End Links // V710 Gunmetal 19x8.5

    →→FrankenTurbo F21 BUILD←←

  28. #11668
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeloader700 View Post
    Having a hard time finding it. What is the torque spec for the four T55 bolts holding the two halfs of a S4 caliper together?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    You are not finding the spec, because they are not meant to be taken apart. If you didn't remove them yet, leave them alone. It's not necessary for the caliper rebuild.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  29. #11669
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Thanks for the info.

    Mine are platinum. The driver's seat has it the worst in terms of damage, upper bolster and seat bottom are torn and have chunks of leather coming off. But the passenger front seat leather is dried out really bad, like if you poke your finger on the seat you can crack the leather...
    Try Leatherique treatment on the dry leather. A few applications and keeping it warm should restore it.
    The cracked parts may be restored with some if the leather restoration products too depending on the severity of the crack. If it's truly torn, I'd look for a spare seat or cover. The bottom seat skins are swappable between driver's and passenger's side.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  30. #11670
    Veteran Member Four Rings freeloader700's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    You are not finding the spec, because they are not meant to be taken apart. If you didn't remove them yet, leave them alone. It's not necessary for the caliper rebuild.
    Too late... are they torque to yield bolts?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    2003 A4 1.8TQM // Motoza K04 Hybrid // Franken F21// 550cc // TR18T // Test Pipe // FSI Coils // Forge Splitter // 034 RSB & End Links // V710 Gunmetal 19x8.5

    →→FrankenTurbo F21 BUILD←←

  31. #11671
    Veteran Member Three Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Iíve reused them and just gave them the beans. 30,000km and no issue. Iím sure there is a torque value that should be followed though.

  32. #11672
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    B8 A4 sport seats
    I wonder if they fit.


  33. #11673
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

    Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

    EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.
    When I rebuilt my axles, I just took the outer CV joint off (with a cheap puller from ebay $19) and slid both the inner and outer boots off and on from that end.

    The inner axle (drive shaft) joint would be a bear to take off...where as the outer will pop off with a little coaxing or a cheap puller.

  34. #11674
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 28 2014
    AZ Member #
    291297
    Location
    ON

    I have a bit of a vibration at low rpm right after I let go of the clutch in 1st and 2nd. As the rpm climbs it goes away and everything is normal. I just had my car sprayed with krown rust proofing. I wonder if some oil got on my clutch. It does not slip when accelerating hard when moving.

  35. #11675
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    339463
    Location
    Tampa, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post
    Iíve reused them and just gave them the beans. 30,000km and no issue. Iím sure there is a torque value that should be followed though.
    Those are four ugga duggas.

  36. #11676
    Established Member Two Rings Nilya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2008
    AZ Member #
    32110
    My Garage
    2004 A4 1.8T
    Location
    BRAMPTON, CANADA

    Hi all, I am going to install a DICE Audiovox ipod in my RNS-E and also wanted to install bluetooth. Can anyone point me in the right direction on which part I will need? I would like to control calls through the RNS-E. Thanks in advance
    2004 AUDI A4 1.8T

  37. #11677
    Active Member One Ring Arachnid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 18 2017
    AZ Member #
    408585
    Location
    NC

    Alright, here's my dumb question. I took apart some of the pcv tubes when I redid my valve cover gasket. Is it normal to have a small amount of oil in them? It's not like I could tilt them sideways and it ran out or anything, but if I take my finger and run it along the inside I can find some.

  38. #11678
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 30 2015
    AZ Member #
    323925
    Location
    NJ USA

    Quote Originally Posted by Arachnid View Post
    Alright, here's my dumb question. I took apart some of the pcv tubes when I redid my valve cover gasket. Is it normal to have a small amount of oil in them? It's not like I could tilt them sideways and it ran out or anything, but if I take my finger and run it along the inside I can find some.
    Yes it's normal. They eventually will get really gunked up and cause your valve cover to leak. Was yours leaking? If so consider replacing the hoses and PCV (pancake) valve. When your engine can't breathe freely, it builds up pressure in the crankcase and the valve covers leak and performance suffers. There are several threads on this. There are also a few catch can options if you have a 1.8t

  39. #11679
    Active Member One Ring Arachnid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 18 2017
    AZ Member #
    408585
    Location
    NC

    Quote Originally Posted by 2004a4b630QT View Post
    Yes it's normal. They eventually will get really gunked up and cause your valve cover to leak. Was yours leaking? If so consider replacing the hoses and PCV (pancake) valve. When your engine can't breathe freely, it builds up pressure in the crankcase and the valve covers leak and performance suffers. There are several threads on this. There are also a few catch can options if you have a 1.8t
    Yup, it was leaking. I'll have to go back and swap out the hoses and the valve. Thank you!

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