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  1. #11161
    Senior Member Three Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    273587
    My Garage
    03' 5spQ, 2.7t engine...
    Location
    Kissimmee
    Items for Sale

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    Good afternoon,
    Im rebuilding my head and need replace the valve guides.... there are 3 different brands listed for sale... obviously i know IE and supertech are good brands but what about the 3rd.... Canyon.... are valve guides a breaking point in an engine? do they "matter" in terms of a rebuild brand wise? im not trying to cheap out in terms of a build but they are for sale and ive never heard of them etc etc

    thank you

  2. #11162
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    I'm ignorant on the subject but I know that you should get the best one you can, there a big-time wear item and they affect performance.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  3. #11163
    Senior Member Three Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    273587
    My Garage
    03' 5spQ, 2.7t engine...
    Location
    Kissimmee
    Items for Sale

    That was my thinking as well but even then is supertech or IE better

    I don't mean to downgrade a part or seem ignorant but a metal cylinder (which is all I see lol) is a metal cyclinder.... more intake valves exhaust valves cams and etc I completely understand and see the CLEAR meaning of Using I.E. supertech etc

  4. #11164
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    I've heard it said that brass is a pretty good metal to use.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  5. #11165
    Senior Member Three Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    273587
    My Garage
    03' 5spQ, 2.7t engine...
    Location
    Kissimmee
    Items for Sale

    ^ i did some looking at other sites than just ECS and the canyon brand is more prominent that i had thought making items for BMW and Porsche as well..... I am still at a stand still honestly.

  6. #11166
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    Someone here knows

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  7. #11167
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 02 2017
    AZ Member #
    389711
    Location
    Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by Pr1ce View Post
    .... are valve guides a breaking point in an engine? do they "matter" in terms of a rebuild brand wise? im not trying to cheap out in terms of a build but they are for sale and ive never heard of them etc etc
    Bronze /= brass. Never use brass for guides, bushings, any type of wear item. It machines well because it's relatively hard- comes off in a sand-like spray, gets everywhere and in everything, including under the carriage of the lathe, way covers of the mill etc. Makes a mess. You'll have little brass pile in the shower when you wash your hair after a long shift turning the stuff on a conventional lathe w/o guards.

    I don't believe the brand should matter, bronze guides made for that intention should have been spec'd correctly to begin with. They are not a high-wear item; seals are, but you'd be pressed to put extremely high miles on an engine to wear the guides, particularly with synthetic oil. Some engine building companies brand their bronze, such as Bronzanium 90, manganese-bronze, Ampco something or other. This is all assuming an aluminium head- CI heads can use ignorant cast Fe or better yet, Dura-bar (awesome videos showing how Dura-bar is manufactured are available on Youtube- yes, it's "cast iron" but continuously cast as round bar). Dura-bar is great for brake rotors, valve guides, bearing blocks...machines like a champ too.

    NB: not any ol' bronze will do. Clearance between a valve and guide is on the order of 0.0005". It is a requirement that the bronze be a specific alloy or narrow subset thereof to be suitable for use in an automotive valve guide. The operating conditions present variable heat distributions and high-speed cycling of relatively short rectilinear motion by hardened and highly alloyed valve stems, hopefully with an oil film. Go with a known quantity.
    Last edited by Chemmie; Yesterday at 03:39 PM. Reason: Gave a clearance value

  8. #11168
    Senior Member Three Rings Pr1ce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    273587
    My Garage
    03' 5spQ, 2.7t engine...
    Location
    Kissimmee
    Items for Sale

    i mean i can get OEM too if that will suffice .... just wondering and trying to make the best decision.

  9. #11169
    Senior Member Three Rings ZERO FRAME GRAB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    318326
    My Garage
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder
    Location
    Easton PA

    So I did the B7 console in B6 swap today, everything went ok until it was time to put my shifter knob back on. The button on the side you push to shift into PRND is not engaging. Did I pull it out to far when I removed it? And should I just head to the junkyard to find a used 1? FML
    This car is what I look like on the inside

  10. #11170
    Senior Member Four Rings Luxus Panzer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    187873
    My Garage
    B6 A4 Avant, B4 90 Sprot Q, B4 90 FWD, 2014 VW Tiguan
    Location
    Ottawa/Gatineau Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by G.AUDI View Post
    When doing an auto scan with Vag com and there are fault codes, if I have any questions about them do I post the whole results in a thread or are there information I need to hide/block out? Thought I saw someone say something about hiding VIN but I'm not sure what that would accomplish.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    Just post the codes and any additional info related to them returened by Vag Com
    2004 A4 Avant Quattro. (H&R springs, S100 Nav unit, Neuspeed Cat back, Torque solutions Snub mount, Thor Skid Plate, APR Stage 1, 18" S4 Rims, 2X Podi / Oil Press / Oil Temp / Boost/VAC, Full LED interior, Backup Camera/Screen, Upgraded 2.0 Coil Packs, Vag-Com, B7 Center console/B7 Hand Brake, B7 Aero wiper arms B7 rear headreasts,APR Carbonio intake, Fan washer sprayers, rusty door bottoms, need new doors)
    2014 VW Tiguan. (bone stock)

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