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  1. #10481
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

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    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    Check whether the headlight tabs on the bottom have properly engaged into the headlight trays. It's common for folks to push the headlight in and the tabs sitting at the top of the slots in the tray rather than in the slots. It will prevent the headlight from sliding all the way and it will also sit at an angle and point to the ground slightly.
    I have Depos and don't have that kind of a gap.
    I'm pretty sure they have. I only loosened (instead of removed completely) the bottom bolts and they slid into the tab slots. I tried moving the headlight around with the bolts loose and can't get rid of that gap.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  2. #10482
    Senior Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by naysay15 View Post
    Hope I dont have to replace the clutch soon then. Sounds like a grand just in labor. No way I'll attempt that job in my driveway on jack stands lol.
    I did this job 3 years ago (wow, where does the time go) and it was a beast, but it totally helped me gain experience wrenching in a whole new way. Doing it again, I would probably yank the engine, just so I didnt have to lay on the ground the whole time, but in the end, it wasnt bad. I did 80% of the work by myself and the other 20% was with a helper, either my dad or friend. If I had another set of hands the whole time it would have been a piece of cake. I estimate it took me about 15 hours, but I'm pretty sure I could do it in a day (<8 hours) if I had to do it again. Those bottom three bellhousing bolts can be a bitch. There's a reason theyre sitting on a shelf in my garage still.

    Here's a thread where I documented a bit of the project.
    2003 Three . Oh , 6 Speed, Quattro. 143k. I barely drive anymore so much less for me.

  3. #10483
    Established Member Two Rings
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    east coast

    Holy crap that is so above my paygrade.
    Awesome patience guys. Will be visiting an indy euro shop when the time comes😫

  4. #10484
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    Jul 31 2014
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    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
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    Quote Originally Posted by naysay15 View Post
    Holy crap that is so above my paygrade.
    Awesome patience guys. Will be visiting an indy euro shop when the time comes😫
    where are you on the east coast? If you willing to learn, its not a hard job, just seems daunting with how long it takes.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  5. #10485
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Tampa, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    I'm pretty sure they have. I only loosened (instead of removed completely) the bottom bolts and they slid into the tab slots. I tried moving the headlight around with the bolts loose and can't get rid of that gap.
    I don't think he's talking about the tabs that are held by the bolts. I seem to remember there being slots in the bottom of the headlight itself, which slide into tabs that are on the car. Look at the bottom of the headlight and you'll see what I mean. Unless I'm wrong and misremembering. Then just ignore me.

    This is what the part on the car looks like: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...EmC_OIg0dr5dKw

    Those tabs sticking up slide into the headlight housing.

  6. #10486
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    The EV14 550s are a direct swap with the exception that you already noted of having to use the harness adapters. With the adapters in place you will no longer be able to use the engine cover. If that presents an issue for you the harness connector can be re-pinned to work with the EV14 plug and eliminate the adapters altogether.
    OG, or whomever has bosch 550 injectors, can someone clarify....
    I got my 550s and I m in process of the install. However, the 550s are longer than the stockers. Do I just tighten down the rail bolts down or should I fashion some sort of spacer to take up slack?
    Also, I have read not the use the retaining clips to secure it to the fuel rail...is that true?
    The slot location for the clip is apparently different between the injector preventing the 550s to seat fully into the hat on the rail? Can someone verify?
    Also planning to swap out the green orings on the bottom for some new stock orings as I read they are a but thicker to prevent boost leak...good idea?
    Sorry for the long post..just trying to do it right so I dont have a fuel/boost leak.
    My injector cups appears in good condition...fingers crossed. Thanks for your inputs!

  7. #10487
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket1420 View Post
    I don't think he's talking about the tabs that are held by the bolts. I seem to remember there being slots in the bottom of the headlight itself, which slide into tabs that are on the car. Look at the bottom of the headlight and you'll see what I mean. Unless I'm wrong and misremembering. Then just ignore me.

    This is what the part on the car looks like: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...EmC_OIg0dr5dKw

    Those tabs sticking up slide into the headlight housing.
    I'm fairly sure those are engaged too. Would have to double check.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  8. #10488
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    I'm fairly sure those are engaged too. Would have to double check.
    Yes, those are the ones I meant.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  9. #10489
    Veteran Member Four Rings Elliott's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if I can scan other cars (Jeep/Toyota/etc) with a genuine VCDS cable? The Ross-Tech software has a generic OBD-II button but I've never actually tested it.
    CEO and General Manager of the AZ Pedal Responce Team

  10. #10490
    Veteran Member Four Rings WillŽnskraft's Avatar
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    Oct 14 2011
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    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQ
    Location
    Norcross, GA

    Also check the headlight gasket if it sits into place.


    Sent from the Deathstar
    "Beep beeeep bloop boop" - R2D2
    WTB: 4G0601025BQ or 8E0601025BD Wheels

  11. #10491
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Washington, DC

    I have to change my oil, rear diff fluid, and replace the crankshaft speed sensor. Will this lift be enough to get underneath and get busy?

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BG6IJA0...I21AUGYY5FYC8Z

    I don't want to die or become horribly disfigured in the process lol!

  12. #10492
    Senior Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
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    NH
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYDCB View Post
    I have to change my oil, rear diff fluid, and replace the crankshaft speed sensor. Will this lift be enough to get underneath and get busy?

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BG6IJA0...I21AUGYY5FYC8Z

    I don't want to die or become horribly disfigured in the process lol!
    never rely on a jack to hold a car while your under it, always use stands or a a minimum a big block of wood or concrete blocks. I repeat NEVER.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  13. #10493
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Never ever ever ever! Jack stands and chalk the hell out of the wheels properly.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  14. #10494
    Veteran Member Four Rings Elliott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    never rely on a jack to hold a car while your under it, always use stands or a a minimum a big block of wood or concrete blocks. I repeat NEVER.
    This! Even on a high dollar hydraulic jack, there is a 10 cent seal that stands protects your face/body from a 3,000lb vehicle.
    CEO and General Manager of the AZ Pedal Responce Team

  15. #10495
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elliott View Post
    Does anyone know if I can scan other cars (Jeep/Toyota/etc) with a genuine VCDS cable? The Ross-Tech software has a generic OBD-II button but I've never actually tested it.
    x2

    Quote Originally Posted by NYDCB View Post
    I have to change my oil, rear diff fluid, and replace the crankshaft speed sensor. Will this lift be enough to get underneath and get busy?

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BG6IJA0...I21AUGYY5FYC8Z

    I don't want to die or become horribly disfigured in the process lol!
    A jack is to jack the car up/lift it, while jackstands are to hold/support it. Most people who have that setup, also have rhino ramps, I got a pair for $20 used.
    Some people take additional precautions too, like sliding a wheel under the frame rails if it falls. But I don't see why it would, if it's a quality stand that would fall apart at the welds, on level ground, without an earthquake.

    Quote Originally Posted by Elliott View Post
    This! Even on a high dollar hydraulic jack, there is a 10 cent seal that stands protects your face/body from a 3,000lb vehicle.
    I need to find that seal, mine's leaking.

  16. #10496
    Senior Member Two Rings alimo20's Avatar
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    Philly

    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    never rely on a jack to hold a car while your under it, always use stands or a a minimum a big block of wood or concrete blocks. I repeat NEVER.
    yea so def use jack stands, but i do have that same jack and it works great for 2 years now.

  17. #10497
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Apr 07 2011
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    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elliott View Post
    This! Even on a high dollar hydraulic jack, there is a 10 cent seal that stands protects your face/body from a 3,000lb vehicle.
    Yes, I've used mine to scan a Toyota, Subaru and a Saturn, maybe a few others that I can't think of.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  18. #10498
    Established Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    California

    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Yes, I've used mine to scan a Toyota, Subaru and a Saturn, maybe a few others that I can't think of.
    What program do you use? Is there one that will do multiple makes or do you have one for each different make?
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  19. #10499
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    What program do you use? Is there one that will do multiple makes or do you have one for each different make?
    VCDS with a genuine Ross-Tech cable. I just use the OBD-II option.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  20. #10500
    Established Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    Holy crap, I had no idea vcds could scan other makes. I guess it makes sense, since it is basically "just" a scan tool...

    Awesome.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  21. #10501
    Senior Member Four Rings Luxus Panzer's Avatar
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    Apr 15 2014
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    B6 A4 Avant, B4 90 Sprot Q, B4 90 FWD, 2014 VW Tiguan
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    Ottawa/Gatineau Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Holy crap, I had no idea vcds could scan other makes. I guess it makes sense, since it is basically "just" a scan tool...

    Awesome.
    To clarify, it will ONLY scan generic ODBII parameters in non Vag brands.
    2004 A4 Avant Quattro. (H&R springs, S100 Nav unit, Neuspeed Cat back, Torque solutions Snub mount, Thor Skid Plate, APR Stage 1, 18" S4 Rims, 2X Podi / Oil Press / Oil Temp / Boost/VAC, Full LED interior, Backup Camera/Screen, Upgraded 2.0 Coil Packs, Vag-Com, B7 Center console/B7 Hand Brake, B7 Aero wiper arms B7 rear headreasts, rusty door bottoms, need new doors)
    2014 VW Tiguan. (bone stock)

  22. #10502
    Established Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    Yeah that's what I meant by "just" a scan tool. I figured you wouldn't be able to look at measuring blocks and recode stuff.

    Still pretty cool.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  23. #10503
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Ontario, Canada

    FWD Gear Oil?

    On a 1.8T FWD Auto, is there separate gear oil for the front differential or is it integral with the automatic transmission and thus renewed when you change the ATF?

    Multiple reasons are leading me to believe they are separate, but I can't find any info regarding changing front diff oil that's non-Quattro related.

  24. #10504
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luxus Panzer View Post
    To clarify, it will ONLY scan generic ODBII parameters in non Vag brands.
    As opposed to trying Torque smartphone app on other cars, or buying a generic OBDII scanner ($100 at Harbor Freight)?
    Not even sure what the names are of tools for other makes, or how it works.

  25. #10505
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    what are the oem spec lug bolt lengths? Oem are ball seat lug bolts right?

  26. #10506
    Established Member Two Rings
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    east coast

    Quote Originally Posted by hgtuner08 View Post
    what are the oem spec lug bolt lengths? Oem are ball seat lug bolts right?
    Ball seat, 27mm

  27. #10507
    Established Member Two Rings OttawaWill's Avatar
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    Mar 02 2015
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    My Garage
    Ugly, Boring, Family mover.
    Location
    Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    I just got my clutch replaced. Yes, it's not cheap. :( My labour was 10 hours, but that also included fitting full new exhaust, tranny and diff fluid flush and replacing a rear coolant flange.
    Another vote for the Valeo SMFW. Feels like stock clutch. And FYI, I have a GTRS kit on the car.
    How do you feel about your Exhaust set up?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  28. #10508
    Established Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OttawaWill View Post
    How do you feel about your Exhaust set up?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    I like it. I wanted a quieter and more subtle exhaust for what is our family car. Going from 3" DP with 2.5" exhaust to 2.5" dp and 2" exhaust brought more low end torque, but lost top end. But that's OK as I'm not after every last HP.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.

  29. #10509
    Senior Member Three Rings G.AUDI's Avatar
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    SGV, CA

    Upgraded to B7 A4 rears however I was not able to source dust shields at the time. After everything was installed and running for a while I finally got my hands on some dust shields.

    I never did any brake work so here is my dumb question. Is the install easy to put on? Meaning will it affect the rear brakes in any way or is it more complicated such as disconnecting the rear brakes, lines, fluids etc.?

  30. #10510
    Veteran Member Four Rings itsmatt33's Avatar
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    Pasadena
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    Quote Originally Posted by G.AUDI View Post
    Upgraded to B7 A4 rears however I was not able to source dust shields at the time. After everything was installed and running for a while I finally got my hands on some dust shields.

    I never did any brake work so here is my dumb question. Is the install easy to put on? Meaning will it affect the rear brakes in any way or is it more complicated such as disconnecting the rear brakes, lines, fluids etc.?
    im pretty sure the rotor has to be off for you to access the bolts that secure in the dust shield.
    build page here

    GTX2867r Audi a4 b6 TQM RECARO|HRE|ER|IE|APR|AWE|034
    IG: @matthewee

  31. #10511
    Veteran Member Four Rings MurkyRivers_A4's Avatar
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    Tools, boxes of random car parts, 55 gal drum of used oil
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmatt33 View Post
    im pretty sure the rotor has to be off for you to access the bolts that secure in the dust shield.
    Definitely.
    HIS: '03 A4 APB Powered 6spd Q
    HERS: '08 A3 2.0TFSI DSG SLine

    IG: @murky_rivers

  32. #10512
    Senior Member Three Rings G.AUDI's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. So would that mean it would be the same as doing a brake change or pulling out rotor shouldn't affect brakes ?

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  33. #10513
    Veteran Member Four Rings MurkyRivers_A4's Avatar
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    Tools, boxes of random car parts, 55 gal drum of used oil
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    Quote Originally Posted by G.AUDI View Post
    Thanks for the replies. So would that mean it would be the same as doing a brake change or pulling out rotor shouldn't affect brakes ?

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    It wont affect he brakes unless you manage to break something while doing it.

    It's a pretty simple task, honestly, and can be done farily quickly. I never bothered putting shields on, since I went with B6 S4 rears, since supposedly I would need to modify them to fit the A4 rear knuckle.
    HIS: '03 A4 APB Powered 6spd Q
    HERS: '08 A3 2.0TFSI DSG SLine

    IG: @murky_rivers

  34. #10514
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    What should battery voltage be at idle? I got back from a 20~ minute drive and had 13.5v. Worn out alternator?
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  35. #10515
    Senior Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    What should battery voltage be at idle? I got back from a 20~ minute drive and had 13.5v. Worn out alternator?
    Dealing with charging issues myself recently. I can confidentially say you're good to go with that voltage. Anything above 13 is working, but ideally you want 13.5-14.5.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    2003 Three . Oh , 6 Speed, Quattro. 143k. I barely drive anymore so much less for me.

  36. #10516
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    Dealing with charging issues myself recently. I can confidentially say you're good to go with that voltage. Anything above 13 is working, but ideally you want 13.5-14.5.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Hmm. Been having issues with starting the car after it sits for a day or two.

    Put a good battery in, car still struggles to start after a day or two. Colder weather definitely isn't helping.

    Figured that either the alternator isn't charging, or there's a draw on the battery when it's off.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  37. #10517
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    minnesota

    When it gets single digits or negative my tail lights come on and I wake up to a dead battery. Gotta pull up on the brake pedal before walking away from the car.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  38. #10518
    Veteran Member Four Rings JoshDub's Avatar
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    Location
    Seattle

    Does anyone know where I can find a comprehensive faq about the symphony II+ retrofit? The car has the Bose sound system, but I want the bigger screen, to keep sat radio, and add an aux cable.
    The Awesomeô

  39. #10519
    Established Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    California

    Google it and it will probably show up as a link to this site. Satellite radio works just fine. Aux input is as simple as coding the head unit to enable it and then adding the wires into the harness yourself.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  40. #10520
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshDub View Post
    Does anyone know where I can find a comprehensive faq about the symphony II+ retrofit? The car has the Bose sound system, but I want the bigger screen, to keep sat radio, and add an aux cable.
    TL;DR, I too am interested in Symphony II+, but maybe with soundproofing of the car to compliment it.

    I think diagnosticator said it provides a noticeable upgrade in sound quality. I bet it looks better. I once had an aftermarket JVC head unit, which I think had a strong built-in amp that could either be set to High or Low, and on Loud or not (you could still adjust volume and change the adjustment increment).
    Not to be loud and cause hearing damage though.
    I really noticed how much road noise there was the other day, driving with it off to try and hear the engine.

    It was really bad/loud (the road noise). Not peaceful. If anyone falls asleep in the car on a road trip, I'll need earplugs.
    If you don't mind me going off topic,
    Wonder if there's anything I can do about that. Some models got extra sound-insulating cube patterns on their undertrays. Including euro TDI's. I've seen US B7's with it.
    I don't think Raamat is too heavy or expensive. Maybe I can adhere some on. Dunno if it will stick to the fender liners or make them too heavy.
    Recently saw a pic of a B5'er (can't find it atm) who sprayed his whole engine bay with some kind of insulating bedliner.

    Speaking of engine bays, B7's (and S4's) also got a fabric insulator pad. Looks like a hood pad, but on the firewall.
    At least I assume it's for insulation (you can STILL get sound out of an RS4, especially modded) and not fire protection, because it's secured well. Versus hood pads, with plastic clips that are meant to melt in a fire, so that it can drape down over the engine and suffocate it from oxygen fueling the fire.
    Which is why you never open the hood in such a situation, it'll instantly feed it a lot.
    Rather, spray halotron through the grill or something.

    Not sure if the noise is coming from there predominantly, or if my tires are a noisy brand.
    Notice how other manufacturers include more insulation in their cars. All our doors get is a piece of grey styrofoam.

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