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  1. #12281
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2015
    AZ Member #
    359427
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    Outskirts of civilization

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    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    Hmm. Did you know there is special grease to treat the hub-rim mounting plane when installing the wheel, and another special grease for the bolts? I din't!

  2. #12282
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    Earth
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    Hmm. Did you know there is special grease to treat the hub-rim mounting plane when installing the wheel, and another special grease for the bolts? I din't!
    Well then. Now I'm gonna have to pop into my ETKA and track that PN down, in wheel diagram section, to see what it is and if it's worth getting.

    IDK if the thing to use on wheel/hub interface is anti-sieze, or if that can throw off the straightness by having it not mate flush.
    Because anti-seize is just a bunch of metal powder of your choice, that's in liquid form from a soap or something. That can dry out.
    Whether it be aluminum, nickel, copper, etc.

    and galling might be possible; corrosion from dissimilar metals sandwiched up against eachother. An aluminum wheel against a hub that may be steel or something.
    Steel is magnetic while aluminum is not; that's one way to test and figure out what is what.

    Resulting in things like ugly corrosion on the surface, and the wheel getting stuck on the hub, needing to remove it with a hammer or pry-bar.

    Cleaning the area up is a PITA and I'm not looking forward to it, since I may have to put new brake rotors some time in the future.

    I found a strong white powder build-up on my lug bolts that was hard to remove; I ended up cleaning them with a wire wheel. So IDK if a grease product is meant to be on the threads, or ball seat part of the lug bolt head.
    I assume Audi took into consideration K-factor, to not alter the torque spec. Because a lubed wet bolt may tighten differently than a dry one, because it slides easier. Amplifying the torque.
    So when you *think* you're doing 96 ft lbs or whatever on the bolt, it's actually applying more if it's wet/lubricated.

    Supposedly too much torque on a lug bolt can do things like warp a brake disc causing pedal pulsation, due to it being over-tightened. Or strip threads in the hub.
    I say supposedly because 1. I've only heard this and 2. I never really worry about it or deal with such things, because I simply torque to around 96 ft lbs and then get on my life, until next time.
    Which is actually unfortunately often, because I hear quattro cars need a tire rotation every damn 5k miles/oil change to make the tires last a bit longer and keep the tread even all around.

  3. #12283
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2015
    AZ Member #
    359427
    Location
    Outskirts of civilization

    Sorry, should have posted the part numbers. The first substance is D322000A2, a wax spray, apparently. Upon research I've found out that copper paste is often used for the mating surfaces for steel rims, and aluminum paste for alloy rings (don't ever use copper with aluminum, they form a galvanic pair!). I also hear that there is electrically neutral zink paste and ceramic paste which is best for this. Never seen tyre shops applying anything to the mating surfaces, or even just brushing the rust off. Not even the better organized, more expensive shops in my area.

    And the second substance is G052109A2, composition unknown. Looks like it could be glue, not grease.

  4. #12284
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    CNY
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Is there a part number for the little spring on the back of the wheel center caps?

    I seem to have misplaced one of them during the clutch job. I see ECS sells the whole cap with the spring, but I don't want to spend $40 when my cap is fine.
    An option would be to buy a set of cheap eBay caps and harvest the springs from those. However, I've noticed that the eBay caps use a smaller diameter spring that OEM caps do.

    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    And the second substance is G052109A2, composition unknown. Looks like it could be glue, not grease.
    It appears to have the same application as the wax spray, except applied using the tube and not sprayed on.

    Clicky Click
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  5. #12285
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2015
    AZ Member #
    359427
    Location
    Outskirts of civilization

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    It appears to have the same application as the wax spray, except applied using the tube and not sprayed on.
    Clicky Click
    Indeed, the link confirms your suggestion. I swear I've seen a screenshot from ELSA saying that the lugs should also be treated with something. But I don't have ELSA, and it probably was an older Audi car, not B6.

  6. #12286
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Man, of course I'd lose something that isn't sold individually.

    Oh well, thanks guys. I'll see if I can rig something up somehow. I don't really want to spend that much money for a spring.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  7. #12287
    Senior Member Three Rings G.AUDI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 07 2008
    AZ Member #
    36094
    My Garage
    MK6 GTI
    Location
    SGV, CA

    Looking at radiator hoses... Is Rein a good substitute in lieu of the genuine audi brand or should I stick to the OEM?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

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