New to Audizine, I was on vortex for a while but wanted to try here see how it is. But I just bought my first A4 and it was a single owner so I am happy with it. I had sturts/spring set up when I lowered my MK4 and hated it! So now for my A4 I want to go with coilovers, I am on a budget so am looking at Racelands, a friend has them on a car of his and I was in it and it rode fine to me. But what I am looking for answers on is what else should I buy with the coilovers, like is there some bushings I should get? Not looking for like any sway bars or new control arms, but I know with my MK4 they offered a suspension refresh kit but I could not find any thing like that for my A4, so any helo would be much appreciated!
If not doing your control arms, sway bar end links, or tie rods, then just replace your strut mounts.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
If not doing your control arms, sway bar end links, or tie rods, then just replace your strut mounts.
There is a group buy for control arms, I'd suggest doing those w/ coilovers. As many members say on here you get what you pay for though. I'd save up for a quality set, rather than jump the gun and be unhappy with a set of racelands.
Just my 2 cents.
2000 B5 A4 1.8T ATW GT2871r, Unitronic/Maestro tune, RaceTec FMIC, etc... - > Stockpiling for BAT
I just put a set of ST coilovers on my A4 and the ride is pretty good and the handling is a hell of a lot better than stock. I found them on here used for only $500. I think they are around $1k for a new set.
I just put a set of ST coilovers on my A4 and the ride is pretty good and the handling is a hell of a lot better than stock. I found them on here used for only $500. I think they are around $1k for a new set.
Wow good deal, did you install anything else when you put them in?
Do it right and save a little more. You don't have to spend a ton of money to improve the handling. ST coilovers - $799 IIRC, FCP control arms $205 shipped. That's just over 1000 for a major improvement. Chances are your control arms are shot anyways so you may as well change them out now.
I'm surprised not more guys run BC coilovers. They copped a hammering on my old drift car and never leaked up until I removed them. I'm talking really anything that you could throw at them and they just never gave up. $1200 delivered down under, maybe cheaper up top.
I don't know why everyone is so worried about the pinch bolt. You can do the coilovers without removing control arms and messing with the pinch bolt and it is easier IMO.
I never had bad luck with any pinch bolts. I have done it 4 times, all on B5's and never had any trouble. Most mileage was about 130K - not sure when they start to seize over.
How do you do it without touching it? I'm so confused! Maybe i'm thinking of something else then. lol
2001 1.8TQM
Speed doesn't kill. It's that damn sudden stop.
I never had bad luck with any pinch bolts. I have done it 4 times, all on B5's and never had any trouble. Most mileage was about 130K - not sure when they start to seize over.
How do you do it without touching it? I'm so confused! Maybe i'm thinking of something else then. lol
Start by removing 2 bolts from the engine bay, they're under 2 body colored rubber plugs IIRC. From there remove the bolt that attaches the Shock to the LCA. Remove the LCA bolt from the frame. I removed the upper sway bar end link bolt in order to let the LCA move more. I'm pretty sure form there I was able to wiggle it out. That was for the front. The rear was even easier, just have to pull out a lot of the back seat and rear deck.
Unbolt the three nuts on top of the strut in the engine bay and the bolt in the LCA. The have someone stand on the LCA and just pull out the coilover. I never touched the pich bolt and had the job done in like an hour and a half for the fronts.
Unbolt the three nuts on top of the strut in the engine bay and the bolt in the LCA. The have someone stand on the LCA and just pull out the coilover. I never touched the pich bolt and had the job done in like an hour and a half for the fronts.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the 3 bolts in the engine bay are what hold up the shock mount bracket thingy (technical term right there). If you remove the 2 rubber caps there are 2 bolts that will let you move the whole shock out of the shock mount.
Good idea on the part about having someone stand on the LCA. That should make it easier to get it out. I like that.
I also didn't touch the pinch bolt when I installed mine. The 3 larger bolts hold the top hat to the chasis. There are 2 plugs by those those 3 bolts when peeled up reveal 13mm nuts that attach the coil spring seat to the top hat. So basically, you will leave the top hat bolted to the chasis and this allows you to just remove the spring coil seat from the top hat.
I unbolted the sway bar link from the CA (left it attached to the sway bar), removed the inner pivot end of the CA that the strus/springs sit on (bolted to subframe), dropped that control arm while keeping the ball joint end still bolted to the knuckle, removed the 2 hidden 13mm nuts for the coil springs, removed the bolt/nut holding the strut to the CA, and that gave me more than enough working room. Install in reverse with load on suspensuion before torquing everything down.
And your non-siezed pinch bolt is because you are in California. Not so easy with a vehicle that sees 4 seasons well.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Forget the pinch bolt! I live in northern california and it is basically impossible to get the damn thing off. But you dont have to bother with it in this case..
Just like a few of these guys said there are only three bolts you will need to worry about. Two in the engine bay and one where the stut connects to a control arm.
Loosen the top two (not completely or you could get the whole assembly tweaked) then remove the bottom bolt and then the top two. To take the shock assembly out you will have to pry down on one of the control arms. Then its pretty self explanatory form there...
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There were no bolts under the body caps under the hood. I had to remove the entire strut mount and everything. It sucked lol. Still, no pinch bolt action.
2001 A4 1.8TQM. Custom turbo back (eBay test pipe, LaBree downpipe, 2.5 inch piping back to a MagnaFlow muffler). Stage 1 tune. K&N Cone filter. RS6 Wheels painted dark gray with Continental DWS tires. ST Coilovers. Coming soon...2.0 coil packs.
For sale...Brand new, never used, still in box Bosch rear o2 sensor.
There were no bolts under the body caps under the hood. I had to remove the entire strut mount and everything. It sucked lol. Still, no pinch bolt action.
Why didn't you have any? And if you didn't have any, I am sure just a little agressive convincing would have freed the assembly from the top had. It's those 2 13mm nuts that bolt the coil spring seat to the top hat.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
Hey when I do buy coils, the top sturt mount bushing that they sell on ECS, I only need new ones for the front? On my MK4 I only needed new ones on the front I belive.
There are 2 strut mounts on the front, and 2 for the rear. But the rears are different from the fronts, and I can't recall the exact part name for them. It will sit between the spring and the housing that mounts to the car.
I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like the bitch
FS:Brand New K&N Air Filter RU-3700 (3" inlet, 5" base, 4" tall, 4 5/8" top), Brand New 3" Injen (Amsoil) Dry Filter Setup with Heat Shield, Brand New OEM 06A Oil Pump, Used Greddy Intercooler...throw me some offers
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