the short answer is no, but you can retrofit in a 55W D2S kit pretty easily. I'd buy from some place like www.theretrofitsource.com rather than DDM though
2002 A4 1.8TQ 5M. 182k+ miles
FWD-->Quattro swap, Frankenturbo + MTM, Valeo SMFW/clutch, 034 HFC, Mototec exhaust, ER sport FMIC, S4 e-codes, USP front lip, Zender trunk lip, Stoptech 355mm front/B7 S4 rear brakes, Stasis Ohlins SL COs, Neuspeed 21mm RSB, Sportec Mono 10 (rep) wheels, B6 S4 nogaro alcantara front seats, Euro shift knob, JHM short shifter, B7 console, RS4 pedals, OEM brushed interior trim, SII+, TT-S MFSW, color instrument cluster, Alpine PDX-5, IDQ 10" sub
thanks that's what i was trynna figure out man i was thinking of doing that im not quite sure if i wanna get the chrysler ballasts or if i should go with the aftermarket 55w d2s option
what do you have now and why are you looking to replace it?
i have OEM setup however both of my ballasts stopped working recently at first i thought it was the bulbs but when i changed them realized that i just needed new ballasts all together it kinda flickered then just didn't turn on. i was thinking of buying the valeo ballasts from chrysler as i saw in another thread but i have the 5G 12 pin ballasts not the 5GL with the 4 pin so i would have to pay about $400 to go with stock ballasts from ebay.
i have OEM setup however both of my ballasts stopped working recently at first i thought it was the bulbs but when i changed them realized that i just needed new ballasts all together it kinda flickered then just didn't turn on. i was thinking of buying the valeo ballasts from chrysler as i saw in another thread but i have the 5G 12 pin ballasts not the 5GL with the 4 pin so i would have to pay about $400 to go with stock ballasts from ebay.
You can use the 5GL ballasts, the only change required is removing the wires from the 12 pin connectors and reinserting the 2 wires into 4 pin connectors.
Doesn't running a HID at 55W pose a danger to melting the wire harness? The Xenon bulbs are designed to operate with a 35W ballast. Stepping up to a 55W ballast will produce a brighter and more intense light, but also generate more heat. I'm all for acheiving optimal light output, but without the risk of blinding oncoming traffic and potentially starting an electrical fire.
Doesn't running a HID at 55W pose a danger to melting the wire harness? The Xenon bulbs are designed to operate with a 35W ballast. Stepping up to a 55W ballast will produce a brighter and more intense light, but also generate more heat. I'm all for acheiving optimal light output, but without the risk of blinding oncoming traffic and potentially starting an electrical fire.
If he "upgrades" to a 55W DDM D2S setup (which apparently runs closer to 42-45W), there's really no risk of anything except one of the bulbs/ballasts going out at an inopportune time. All of the light output is still below the cutoff, so he's only going to blind oncoming traffic if his lights are misaligned. And the stock wiring is more than capable of handling the increased amperage for a 55W setup, as it's no more than a stock halogen bulb (which are 55W).
OP - I'd recommend you replace your ballasts with the Mopar/Valeo ones if your bulbs are good and fairly new, or the TRS Morimoto 50W D2S kit if not. a4darkness recently did this upgrade and is pretty happy with the results
2002 A4 1.8TQ 5M. 182k+ miles
FWD-->Quattro swap, Frankenturbo + MTM, Valeo SMFW/clutch, 034 HFC, Mototec exhaust, ER sport FMIC, S4 e-codes, USP front lip, Zender trunk lip, Stoptech 355mm front/B7 S4 rear brakes, Stasis Ohlins SL COs, Neuspeed 21mm RSB, Sportec Mono 10 (rep) wheels, B6 S4 nogaro alcantara front seats, Euro shift knob, JHM short shifter, B7 console, RS4 pedals, OEM brushed interior trim, SII+, TT-S MFSW, color instrument cluster, Alpine PDX-5, IDQ 10" sub
Bookmarks