Lower Radiator Drain Valve non functional

[Charles.waite]

So I was going to replace my Thermostat today and I ran into a little snag. The coolant drain valve on the lower radiator outlet wasn't working. The valve was relatively hard to twist, required two hands, and when I finally got it turned the full 90° nothing happened. The closed position was with the top of the valve handle thing at 12o'clock and the open was with the handle at 3 o'clock, so I turned it 90° clockwise. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to pull it out or push it in? Is it possible the valve itself is broken or stuck?

I'm at an impasse because I need to drain the coolant to change the Thermostat (obviously). I was also unable to pull the lower Rad coupler off as an alternative to draining it from the drain valve. I pulled the coupler retainer clip but I still couldn't pull the coupler off. I really didn't want to use too much force and break it since I can't afford to put this car out of commission for even a day or two. Is there a trick to draining the coolant with either the Drain valve or by removing the lower rad coupler that I'm not doing? I had the top of the Coolant tank off so gravity should be allowing it to drain. Is it possible the valve is calcified or something? This is so frustrating...

If my lower Rad hose/coupler assembly is toast, I'll need to replace it. ETKA lists the part number as 08E121049L which doesn't come up anywhere. In addition to that, the illustration shows there being a CTS at the bottom of the coupler which also doesn't exist on my car. I've managed to find the part in GAP's catalog, though it doesn't list a part number. Its $78 so no big deal but I'd like to ideally sort this out without having to replace more parts.

I hate Audi right now...

[Charles.waite]

Superbowl Sunday Bump!

[bman005]

I did mine last week and my drain did the same thing. I just went ahead and put a drain pan underneath and caught most of it with that when I pulled the hoses off the thermostat housing.

[fly300kts]

I never use the drain mainly because it never works and also being made of plastic, I don't want to break it
The lower raidiator hose can be a pain as well but it works: lift the clip and jiggle the crap out of it

Phil

[Charles.waite]

Oh I'm planning on reusing the coolant so I didn't want it to pick up debris, sand, and oil from the rest if the car. I'm thinking about taking it to an indie and seeing if they can figure it out. I wonder if whatever has clogged up my thermostat has clogged up the drain valve too...

The PO must have liked doing donuts on the beach or something, there's like 1/2 a cup of sand sitting in the grooves of the intake manifold and what feels like cement all over the tops of the control arms. You'd think the car was never washed...

[Inked]

Seriously? Reusing the coolant?

[bman005]

Seriously? Reusing the coolant?

X2. even at the dealer its only 20ish for new

[Charles.waite]

Seriously? Reusing the coolant?

If its still good why throw it out?

I've got 2 gallons sitting in my shed, but if I don't have to use it I don't see why that matters. If its clean it's perfectly fine to reuse.

[Charles.waite]

I never use the drain mainly because it never works and also being made of plastic, I don't want to break it
The lower raidiator hose can be a pain as well but it works: lift the clip and jiggle the crap out of it

Phil

Thanks for the tip Phil. Maybe I'll just manhandle it. Is it very fragile?

[fly300kts]

Thanks for the tip Phil. Maybe I'll just manhandle it. Is it very fragile?

The valve yes, the hose, no

Phil

[jimrobbington]

Are you using the b6 diy to get this done? I just want to make sure if I have to do this, I am not doing extra steps that aren't necessary.

[bman005]

You don't have to pull the fan to get the alternator off in the b7, it bolts in differently.

[Charles.waite]

Here are some tips I've compiled: Thermostat Diagnosis/Replacement Technical Questions

Matt Devo's DIY

There are a few differences, like no lower coolant temp sensor to drain with when the drain valve doesn't work, but those are the steps I'm following.

[Charles.waite]

You don't have to pull the fan to get the alternator off in the b7, it bolts in differently.

?? Nobody said to pull the fan off? Are you looking at a B5 walkthrough? The B6/B7 fans are electrical not belt driven...

[bman005]

Might have been. Saw a link to it somewhere and it showed fan removal.

Just read over Matt Devo's DIY and it is basically the same as what you'd do on the B7. There's no need to remove the B7 throttle body or the intake to engine block bracket since they aren't in the way on the B7. There are 3 bolts over by the oil cooler that will need to be removed in order to get the metal pipes out of the thermostat housing though on the B7 2 6mm allen bolts and 1 4mm 12point (triple square)

[mr larry]

So I was going to replace my Thermostat today and I ran into a little snag. The coolant drain valve on the lower radiator outlet wasn't working. The valve was relatively hard to twist, required two hands, and when I finally got it turned the full 90° nothing happened. The closed position was with the top of the valve handle thing at 12o'clock and the open was with the handle at 3 o'clock, so I turned it 90° clockwise. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to pull it out or push it in? Is it possible the valve itself is broken or stuck?

I'm at an impasse because I need to drain the coolant to change the Thermostat (obviously). I was also unable to pull the lower Rad coupler off as an alternative to draining it from the drain valve. I pulled the coupler retainer clip but I still couldn't pull the coupler off. I really didn't want to use too much force and break it since I can't afford to put this car out of commission for even a day or two. Is there a trick to draining the coolant with either the Drain valve or by removing the lower rad coupler that I'm not doing? I had the top of the Coolant tank off so gravity should be allowing it to drain. Is it possible the valve is calcified or something? This is so frustrating...

If my lower Rad hose/coupler assembly is toast, I'll need to replace it. ETKA lists the part number as 08E121049L which doesn't come up anywhere. In addition to that, the illustration shows there being a CTS at the bottom of the coupler which also doesn't exist on my car. I've managed to find the part in GAP's catalog, though it doesn't list a part number. Its $78 so no big deal but I'd like to ideally sort this out without having to replace more parts.

I hate Audi right now...

I turned mine 90 deg and nothing happened and there was a noticeable 'stop' at 90. But I pushed my luck and decided to try and turn it with pliers...turned another 90 pretty easily and began to drain.

[Charles.waite]

^^^ interesting. Going to go try again right now. I'll have to try with some beefier pliers...

[B72011]

Let us know if the additional 90* gets er flowing!

[Charles.waite]

Let us know if the additional 90* gets er flowing!

I will. Right after I said I would try it I realized the super bowl was starting soon. Obviously I had to watch that so there was no way the thermostat was getting done. My GF is from VT so she was actually excited to watch football for once, couldn't pass that up! Shes a huge fan of Brady, as most girls are..

[fly300kts]

I will. Right after I said I would try it I realized the super bowl was starting soon. Obviously I had to watch that so there was no way the thermostat was getting done. My GF is from VT so she was actually excited to watch football for once, couldn't pass that up! Shes a huge fan of Brady, as most girls are..

She must be crying now

Phil

[Charles.waite]

She must be crying now

Phil

Haha, shes not that worked up about it, but yea a bit sad. Haha, I am too, the Pats are my number 2 (behind the seahawks ) since my extended family all live in the Boston area.