I have noticed several times recently this winter, that when it is cold out (*< 20F ), My temp gauge will rest below normal. Car runs fine, car feels fine, just low engine temp. T-stat, water pump, timing were done ~36k ago @ 80k.
This is the engine completely warmed up, just around 20 deg outside. Speeds no higher than 45ish.
I have same problem I'll be right in the middle then floor my car 60-120mph then my temp bar will will drop to where yours is then slowly go back up. I also have a boost problem at 5,200 RPMs drops to 12 then back up to where it should be. I am hoping that my thermostat is causing this problem.
07 a4 2.0t/20%tint/blacked out rims/3'test pipe/gsg FMIC/intake/KW V2 coils/revo stage 2+/KMD HPFP upgrade/rs4 rear sway/stern motor mounts/race snub mount/MBC/ Water Meth/ KMD short Shifter/ f700bt head unit?2 8'' subs/Steering wheel guage pod/upgraded DV/ 17.5mm spacers/ yakima roof racks/HID fogs and headlights/
My thermostat isn't reporting any data in VCDS. It's supposed to report a percentage that its open (3.9% when its "closed") based on the coolant temp. My car also doesn't reach full temp unless I've been driving for more than 10 minutes. Its because my thermostat is stuck open and is constantly cycling coolant through the radiator rather than only when it goes above 90C.
JR, your thermostat could be broken, but stuck partially open so you only see this behavior when the temps are cold and the radiator and the fan are able to cool it down too much.
I was going to swap mine today and report on my results, but my Coolant Drain valve was nonfunctional for some reason.
The engine is supposed to be pegged at 1/2 ALL THE TIME. My advice: don't listen to the people that say its normal, because I'm pretty positive its not. I've been wrong before but given I've got the same issue, and my B6 is reporting values for this stuff and it warms up perfectly and stays pegged at 1/2 on the gauge, Its likely I'm right this time...
Had my lower drain valve been functional I could be confirming this for you right now JR. Maybe tomorrow...
Last edited by Charles.waite; 02-04-2012 at 10:08 PM.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
Thermostat is deffently stuck open. I have the same problem and I got a MIL for a P2181 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System) and you might get the same. I've already changed out both coolant sensors and the same MIL came back, so now I'm having the thermostat changed out on Monday. The temp gauge should be in the middle after 10 min or so.
Thermostat is deffently stuck open. I have the same problem and I got a MIL for a P2181 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System) and you might get the same. I've already changed out both coolant sensors and the same MIL came back, so now I'm having the thermostat changed out on Monday. The temp gauge should be in the middle after 10 min or so.
was looking at tsb's on alldata and went to go pull my code fore fuel performance prob and now theres a cooling performance problem code -______________-
I had the same issue and I replaced my tstat last week. No faults either, my only difference from JR is that my heat wasn't quite warm enough. I monitored my coolant temp with VagCom before changing and found that it was only getting up to 78 celsius (at 2500rpm not driving) and would drop down to 58 while driving on the highway. Post tstat replacement it gets up over 90 before the electric fan kicks on and stays in the mid 80s during highway driving.
Yeah, heater still gets warm as shit. Usually have to open the windows. Lol. Bman, you got an answer for my previous question? Can you just replace the thermostat, and how easy is it?
Well, damn it! I thought the whole water pump assembly has to be replaced to do the thermostat. Is that not the case?
Nope. Look up Matt devo's DIY for the b6. It's pretty much the same for the 2.0t. Just have to remove the alternator. I might do it today after all so if I do I'll probably post up pics. Btw the stealer quoted me $700 for the thermostat replacement...
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
Btw the stealer quoted me $700 for the thermostat replacement...
Holly crap....what a rip off. I grabbed a thermostat from a local shop (meets ECS website pricing) for $40 and swapped it out one afternoon. Thought I was saving myself a few bucks, not several hunderd.
Had (too) many Audi and I've always seen some temperature gauge drop. On any properly functioning 1.8T and 2.0T (based on my experience) the temperature will drop when it's very cold and you are driving downhill. My needle is dead center, but there is a certain parkway section where the temperature drops to where your picture shows. The same thing should happen when you turn your heater on - that helps cool down the engine a bit. I'm not saying not to check your car out, but don't change components unless you are 100% sure. You should worry when the needle goes past half mark (overheating).
My car sits outside now, and once it warms up, it's right in the middle. Even with all the snow packed everywhere. I'd say that's not normal and something is wrong. Even when I'm home and it hits -30F it'll always warm up to the middle.
Yeah, heater still gets warm as shit. Usually have to open the windows. Lol. Bman, you got an answer for my previous question? Can you just replace the thermostat, and how easy is it?
You don't have to replace the water pump at all, but the thermostat is inside of a PCV housing. I'm not sure that you can remove it from there, AFAIK you have to take the whole pcv part out and replace with a new one. But WP should not even be messed with.
Yeah, heater still gets warm as shit. Usually have to open the windows. Lol. Bman, you got an answer for my previous question? Can you just replace the thermostat, and how easy is it?
Thermostat comes as a housing unit that bolts to the block under the intake. It took me a little under an hour to replace it. As stated already the B6 DIY is pretty close. You need a T30 torx and a 4mm 12 triple square in addition to the tools for the B6 DIY. Maybe Charles.waite will post up pics when he does his. I thought about it but I was in a rush
Had (too) many Audi and I've always seen some temperature gauge drop. On any properly functioning 1.8T and 2.0T (based on my experience) the temperature will drop when it's very cold and you are driving downhill. My needle is dead center, but there is a certain parkway section where the temperature drops to where your picture shows. The same thing should happen when you turn your heater on - that helps cool down the engine a bit. I'm not saying not to check your car out, but don't change components unless you are 100% sure. You should worry when the needle goes past half mark (overheating).
I don't think thats true at all. I've NEVER owned a car that does that. My b6 stays rock solid at the center at all times once its warmed up and it heats up in around 5 minutes of driving. My b7 takes upwards of 15 minutes to fully heat up and if routinely drops below 1/2, sometimes as far at 1/4. Erratic engine temps are NOT good. My B7's heat is also noticeably less than my B6, though its still fine, just not nearly as hot.
Not an attack on you, so don't take it personally, but I really don't understand why so many people on here think this is normal behavior for a car. It just simply isn't. Its not an Audi quirk, its a malfunctioning or broken part. Its that simple. Luckily the thermostats tend to get jammed open rather than closed so we see the behavior a lot of us are seeing. Jump in a new audi and I promise you ou wont see this behavior.
Just today my b7 went from 3/8s to 1/2 to 1/4 back to 3/8s within a half a mile. I never got around to replacing it, maybe I'll attempt it this week during my lunch breaks, but I'm be sure to report back with pics and logs about how this affects my temps and the Vag-Com Thermostat duty cycle values.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
It really bothers me that my temp gauge doesn't move, I can rev the motor, push it hard, cold outside... Nope dead center
As a mechanic it baffles my mind haha
You will find that coolant temp needles are generally programmed to show dead center for a large range of temperatures around 50 degrees (or mroe) F So from like 160 to 210 would show dead center. This is usually so people dont freak out when it moves. Based on this, if it is coming off center, it may, in fact, be quite cold. Hence
I had the same problem and Audi replaced the thermostat along with the sensor, problem fixed. The tech told me it's not normal to drop at all. So once the engine is fully warmed the temp needle should not move at all in any circumstances. I haven't read all the comments here, maybe it's been said but I've heard people saying that this problem was fixed with only replacing the sensor. It's worth to give that a try before you going for the thermostat.
Good luck!
Full Apr tune stage 2+ - K&N custom CAI - Treadstone TR6 FMIC (Greddy piping) - APR HPFP - VMR TP - Milltek Exhaust - H&R/Bilstein suspension - VMR v701 19" - RS4 sway bar - Apikol snub mount - Revised piston DV - Short shifter - AWE boost gauge - Votex 3 piece trunk lip - Cupra lip - LED interior - De-badged
Having the same problem... looks like the next time i take my car in ill have them change the thermostat. Is it really necessary to change the sensor?
It totally depends. Theres no way for us to just tell you what is wrong because it could be a sensor or the thermostat could be faulty. Without seeing measuring blocks 130-132 in VCDS we can't know for sure.
On my car I only get a temperature value for the engine outlet temperature sensor (I believe the G62 sensor). But the Thermostat Duty Cycle (displays the percentage the thermostat is open or closed) is blank which leads me to believe its toast.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
^^ Yea it should. I think people are thinking this is normal because the car can drive absolutely fine with a malfunctioning Thermostat or CTS. Mine does. I've known about my thermostat issue for months. The only ill effects are sooty tailpipes (free painted tailpipe mod!) and poor fuel economy. Both of which are because the car is constantly running rich as a safety precaution since it doesn't know the state of the thermostat. This isn't good, but the car is completely driveable and you would never know if the temp gauge wasn't there.
Lots of people just assume that since there aren't any codes thrown or CELs that everything is kosher. Not in this case...
Of course if the problems persist after I replace my thermostat and CTS I'll eat my hat...
Last edited by Charles.waite; 02-06-2012 at 02:10 PM.
-CP
2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP APR Stage 1 - Achtuning Snub - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 (.04" gap) - 710N
Maintenance: 034 Silicon Breather - US Plastics Check Valves - Rev. D SJP - Rev. F PRV - Injector Seats - Coolant Flange
Issues: All control arms are shot - Shitty, poorly worn YK520s - Sloppy TREs - Godawful stock brakes
2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic stocker - Failing TC Mod
I have noticed several times recently this winter, that when it is cold out (*< 20F ), My temp gauge will rest below normal. Car runs fine, car feels fine, just low engine temp. T-stat, water pump, timing were done ~36k ago @ 80k.
This is the engine completely warmed up, just around 20 deg outside. Speeds no higher than 45ish.
Don't worry, I noticed the same in winter when take the speedways and 60~80 mph and 55~70 F and return to normal 1/2 when take the city, I live in Florida and when the season is hot always stay in the middle.
Only noticed 2 times in cold days (South Florida is warm or hot time average)
Just to reiterate what others have said... Once up to heat, your temp gauge should not be fluctuating. If it does, you either have a) stuck thermostat or b) bad sensor.
The sticky thermostat is more common and has been a maintenance item in just about every car I've ever owned, so most of the time, that's your culprit, but a failing sensor could produce the same symptom.
Don't worry, I noticed the same in winter when take the speedways and 60~80 mph and 55~70 F and return to normal 1/2 when take the city, I live in Florida and when the season is hot always stay in the middle.
Only noticed 2 times in cold days (South Florida is warm or hot time average)
It's not normal.
Full Apr tune stage 2+ - K&N custom CAI - Treadstone TR6 FMIC (Greddy piping) - APR HPFP - VMR TP - Milltek Exhaust - H&R/Bilstein suspension - VMR v701 19" - RS4 sway bar - Apikol snub mount - Revised piston DV - Short shifter - AWE boost gauge - Votex 3 piece trunk lip - Cupra lip - LED interior - De-badged
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Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
Engine Temp.
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