So I have been saving up parts for a while and finally this past weekend got my block back from the machine shop and finally had time to start working pretty excited as I have been waiting for a while to get this build going!
Engine parts:
HTA3076R 0.82A/R
ATP T3 Cast manifold
Tial MV-S wastegate 1 bar spring
Custom JE 83mm Coated Pistons with tool steel wristpin
IE rifle drilled rods
ACL rod bearings
Stock mains and thrust washers
Fluidampr Pulley
ARP Mains
ARP Head Studs
Full Ferrea Valvetrain +1mm oversize valves
APR HPFP
RS4 Injectors
PPG Headgasket
Boxes of parts lol
I should be getting one more package today with all the gaskets seals and bolts I need to finish!
When I got the motor back from the machine shop I forgot to take pics oopsies, I had already clearanced and installed the crank before I decided I should probably take some pics lol.
Bare block top
Bottom showing the arp mains
IE rods
Putting on the coated rod bearings
Pistons after gapping the rings and setting the openings
Putting the wrist pins on and about to install circlip
Circlip installed
Into the piston ring compressor
And inside!
Repeat for all four than turned upside to get them from the bottom
Than clearanced the rods with plastigage
After clearancing and final torquing
From the top
And here is where I left off last night makin a template to drill holes in the windage tray? splash thing spacer lol
Ill edit this later and add a parts list or something I gotta go out now and find a metal cutting bit to drill those holes
If you want anymore pics of something in particular let me know. Ill take pics of the head later tonight
Last edited by okswerve16; 02-04-2012 at 11:57 AM.
Seems like a lot of the parts ie:seals and bolts are stuff you could have reused... Are you building a seperate motor to just drop in real fast? If so... Good Planning
Guess i should post in here since just got my head back from the machine shop for a valve job for +1mm ferrea valves! I have the bentley manual but for some reason cant find where it shows the proper application for the sealant part# D154103A1 and the torque for the 23 bolts holding the girdle or the tightening sequence? Matter of fact I cant find the proper method of putting on the tensioner and chain the cam bolt and polygon bolt too grrr, I think they left it out in my a4 bentley which is why I even bought it!!!!?
What do you mean when you say girdle? Are you talking about the bearing bracket for ontop of the cams? Is your sealant the green stuff? Thats seals the bearing bracket. I'll do my best to get the info from ELSA for you
When you have the bearing bracket off you will see a grooves on the under side. Put the sealant in there. The bolts are torque to yield so you should have new ones. The torque spec is 8Nm plus an additional 90 degrees. Here is the sequence copied out of ELSA
Haha no for the amount of time and money I put/putting into this I really want a custom dyno tune. It down to either maestro and than having it fine tuned on the dyno or its going up to EPL since they are only 40 mins from me and I already talked to them about a month ago when I dropped of the engine at the machine shop so it might be time to give them another call and see what we can get going.
Drilled holes in the windage tray because the arp mains are taller then the oem bolts
Than put the balance shaft assembly on with the tensioner compressed to allow the chain to go on
Than I had to remember where the 8 different sized bolts went holding the assembly in place lol
Cover on and how I left it
Tomorrow I am gunna see if I can get around to installing the front and rear seals and possibly throwing on the oil pan to finiish up the bottom end! Anybody changed their oil pans or the seals what kinda RTV did you guys use VW/Audi brand or any old?
oh yeah and I forgot to take pics but I deleted the balance shafts as well but all I did was cut the gear off with a cut off disc on my dremel then hammered it out, then made sure I cleaned it out real well to get all the metal shaving debris
oh yeah and I forgot to take pics but I deleted the balance shafts as well but all I did was cut the gear off with a cut off disc on my dremel then hammered it out, then made sure I cleaned it out real well to get all the metal shaving debris
what's the benefit of deleting that gear?
2008 Audi A4 2.0t Quattro MT
-APR Stg 2 and Carbonio CAI -Diverter Valve 'D" revision -AWE FMIC -034 motorsports HFC, Street Density motor mounts, Track density Trans mount, Catch Can and wheel studs -JHM Short Shifter -Adams 'Drill/Drill/Slot' Rotors F&R w/ Hawk Ceramic Pads -ECS snub mount, 7mm rear spacers and Stainless Steel Brake Lines -Stasis Catback Exhaust -VMR V701 18"x8.5, Falken PT722 235/40-18 -H&R Sport Springs
It stops the balance shafts from spinning which basically removes a point of failure since at high and sustained high RPMs (higher than stock) they could cause the chain to break
+ it frees up rotational mass = more horsepower. It does have some downsides though too (obviously, otherwise Audi wouldn't have installed them in the first place)
Dan
2007 Audi A4 S-Line Ti - JoM, Carbonio, Ecodes, RS4 Black Optic Grille, Tint, whole bunch of APR stuff, Forge, and AWE stuff, Devils Own Methanol Injection, just your run of the mill B7 that's been "tinkered" with
From what I know as long as the motor is balanced then it wont be too bad as far as vibrations go don't get me wrong there will be a bit but thatall depends on the person... Also from what ive been told is that these motors ran fine for over 12 years without the BS... The only real difference is that the crank gear is usually circular but ours is oval....
I'll be deleting mine as well as the whole oil assembly and going with the 1.8t oil pump which also gives me an extra 2 qts of oil capacity.
P.S. That asshole comment from Drake is for me as he is mad that I was right in some info and he went crying off saying he was leaving for a while but only lasted 2 minutes when no one came running asking him to stay so he came back!
vizi
05.5 B7 A4 6sp AWD Quartz Gray 173,000mi I like to drive!
Car:Custom JRP Mani & DP, GT3076, FWD to AWD conversion, IE 144/20,Wossner Pistons 83.5mm 9.2:1Cr, CM FX400, Ported Head Ferrea valves, Eurojet VC, EJ S3 Dv Flange, Custom STASIS Exhaust, Precision 600hp FMIC, RS4 injectors, Tial 38mm, APR HPFP, 034 SD mounts, Apikol Rear Diff, RS4 Sway, APR Snub Mount, DO 4 port w/m direct injection, HPFPUpgrade 142bar fuel relief valve
Absolute Automotive Tuned to 373+awhp (Corrected)
Either way no matter how balanced the motor is it will not eliminate the vibration, as the high frequency vibrations have nothing to do with how balanced your components are.
Jeff- you don't need to start something in every thread.
I was supposed to be deploying but it got postponed... And yeah your attitude is driving me away from this place!
There is an inherent second order vibration to all inline four cylinder engines that you will not get rid of due to balancing of the crankshaft and rotatating assembly, the way to counteract that is the weights spinning at TWICE the rpm of the motor. Now idk about you guys but I plan to rev my engine above the stock limiter and at 8000 rpm these balance shafts will be spinning at 16000! Def not a good idea to me, so I deleted them and got my rotating asembly balanced as well to reduce the vibration as much as possible. True it will be impossible to get it completely smooth, but it should be any other 4 cylinder that does not have balance shafts since the rotating assembly is balanced for example all 1.8t motors do not have balance shafts
Yeah it is mixed with how bad it is, as it's been stated some 4 cylinder motors don't even have BS. (or their threads! Ba Dum Dum lol)
I think you should be ok, especially if you already are aware there may be a vibration present. I have not personally felt it but slim is wanting to put his back in :-/
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Originally Posted by viziers
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